At the risk of being boring here is a howto video teaching strumming fingering and all sorts
which although in Hungarian is mostly understandable as music is more or less universal
When it gets near the end the noter section and vibrato tips leave me open mouthed
The one in the video appears to be a traditional design and for any interested here is another video which shows how citera are played using a noter and using an inward strum pattern how the tremolo is achieved
I understand that tuning is basically always using intervals such as a ll melody strings are tuned to g1 the rest being drone strings tuned to C, c1, c2 g2, c3.which is a little contrary the info sheet I posted which I never understood especially "h"Tuning depends on size so this is a good base.
Small "C" citera.
Measure 48-52 cm.
Keynote: g'. Melody strings - g'. Resonant strings - g' - c' - c - g . Side strings c'' - g'' - c'''.
Great "C" citera.
Measure 70-80 cm.
Keynote: g. Melody strings - g. Resonant strings - g - c - C - G . Side strings - c' - g' - c''.
Watching this video explained a great deal to me
For anyone interested here is a link to my citera pictures on public access stored on "Tinterweb"
https://flic.kr/s/aHsmf7tizc
The factory was a furniture factory apparently so they would have a variety of local timbers available.
I have myself pondered the same question and suspect the frame is perhaps Ash which is generally easily carved, light in colour and not too heavy
I am trying to attach some detail pictures but I first have to remember how BB system works and where they are stored meanwhile this is the Hungarian info sheet from 1981
They are apparently all constructed in a similar fashion with no back and need a table for a sound board
This is the underside of mine which was made in the government factory
[img] https://www.flickr.com/photos/99248490@N05/25298908127/in/album-72157693231671105/ [img]
This one is mine [in case the picture is lost]
I have just returned to FOTMD and saw this wonderful insight into my citera which I am ashamed to say I have never done anything with since I bought it on Impulse in 2018 [Un-played and very cheap]
Mine is tuned to open G and a noter on the diatonic half of the finger board would work but how you could adjust the noter to play on the chromatic half of the board I find difficulty in imagining!
Perhaps I have found another lockdown task?
A couple of years ago someone on here suggested The Cherub violin mic as a cheap and reasonably efficient way to hook up a dulcimer. I have found with a decent sound system they do work and are quickly swapped from one instrument to another and most importantly you get to test for the best position for next to no expenditure
Seems that my maker is no more as this translation of a press release explains
The Szeged Instrument Factory was established with 50-60 employees in 1953 as a council company with a mixed profile: in addition to the instruments, furniture manufacturing, upholstery and decorations were also operated. It later concentrated on instruments and due to a downturn it was closed in 2004 after it peaked production at 9400 instruments in 2001
The pins appear to have a square head -- should not be hard to find a clock-key to match.
The pins appear to be standard zither wrest/tuning pins that will take a 5mm square wrench or socket
The original key does not give the fine control that a long handle wrench does so I will repurpose one of my 'old' tools
My folk Citera arrived today
Made April Fools Day 1981 and never played
Here is a link to Flickr pictures ....
https://www.flickr.com/gp/99248490@N05/71xg25
The pictures show the makers label various details and the original spec sheet.
Any help translating the spec sheet and the suggested tunings will be appreciated greatly!
I found the makers address on Google street view but it is a modern block of flats
I have so far not found any other info on the maker
I will set about getting it into a playable condition over the weekend
So wish me good fortune!
I believe that the 'Rosebud' carvings may be the best method of identifying the maker
Any help will be gratefully received
Cheers Dave
Thanks guys I also posted on ED and have been following many internet threads chasing info.
I did not set out to buy this but the lady advertised it as 'Musical Instruments' in amongst the 1000s of acoustic guitars and never amended her add even though I informed her what it was.
I have always been fascinated by the fretted zithers, auto harps etc but never thought to own one unless I made my own.
I got this by default with a single bid and am very happy.
It may well cost me as much again for a decent tuning key.
I will post detailed pictures when the package arrives meanwhile I am hunting for any possible info on a maker
was browsing Eb** and came across an interesting chromatic dulcimer otherwise known as a Hungarian citera zitherI just won the auction and now need to collect info about citera s that I can understand[Hungarian is not a language that is easily translated]Seems to be a 'C' tuned instrument but what do I do with all those other strings?Seems to be set up like a short scale dulcimer with the black notes on the second fingerboard and drones
Any decent music shop will supply Peg dope also called peg paste, peg stick, peg compound
Used by the fiddle fraternity for a century tuning pegs that are well fitted and properly doped will both turn smoothly and hold firmly
If your pegs are out of round grooved on the bearing etc Peg Dope will not be effective and you will need new pegs and a tapered ream to true the holes.
Good luck!
PS the old method was using talc and soap but avoid rosin incase it glues the pegs
Hey Paul
looking all the way from scotland the semitone interval count looks normal to 10th fret [2212212221] but then goes 2,3,1,2 or thereabouts?
I thought that was unusual but dulcimers are a minority sport over here and I would be fascinated to find out why it would be normal!
I am glad you tried the stuff that Paul and I suggested and it seems you are close to a solution.
What still intrigues me is what is happening 'Down the Dusty End' from 10th fret onward.
Visually everything looks fine until you get past 10 then the fret spacing looks all wrong!
The intonation up that end is often suspect due to high fetted tension and short vsl so the frets may have been set to achieve some more regularly used notes but to me they just look wrong!
If you find the time while you are testing it would be ineresting to know what notes you get from 10 on when your scale is correct elsewhere.
Keep up the good work!
Great news!
Now you can let everyone hear it !
As Paul said it seems your bridge is out!
I agree with all he says but describe things a little differently.
Your scale looks at fist glance to be [Counting in semi tone spacing] .....
2212212221 but afterthe 10th fret it goes awry! [There is no 6 1/2 fret]
Assuming the frets are in the correct relative positions then the bridge position should be set so that the 7th fret is exactly half the vsl [distance between nut and bridge] Then check intonation as string height will cause intonation to go out as you move up the fretboard and increase tension when you depress the string a greater amount. Speaking roughly the harmonic bell note at the 7th fret and the depressed note should sound the same if intonation is correct.
Most dulcimers use a low string height however the gauge of string /tension/ pitch of note determine the physical size of the vibration at the mid point and so string height is a compromise to avoid fret buzz and maintain intonation. If you wish to experiment make a temporary single string bridge slightly lower than the original and find the best intonation /string[bridge height] for your melody string. Old credit cards cd cases video boxes etc provide temporary plasic packers to vary bridge height.
Adjusting at the nut is good but is hard to undo!
Mark your desired bridge position with tape and then you can position the existing bridge once you have altered the height if necessary.
If you are going to reduce the bridge height remove material very gradually from the bottom using sand paper on a flat surface such as an old mirror glass.
Good luck and have patience!
I do not speak or come in contact with Spanish in this island nation where the word is common as a diminutive for computer that I believe is in homage to Mircea Puta the mathematician.
No offense was or is intended and it just goes to show how careful everyone must be especially if like me you have lead a sheltered life.
I have heard of the Roman Goddess and a Town in Baku, a retaurant in Gothenburg,a New York record company, even a moth found here in western europe but until I googled for the Spanish definition I was blissfully ignorant.
Silly really as our daughter lives in Northern Italy where the language is somewhat similar and my grandson is a follower of Anime and has had a schoolboy giggle at the yellow-green Keronian painter Putata!
I now know why!
P.S. I thank you for inadvertently pointing me towards an education in expletives I will never again speak of that carnivorous shoaling fish that lives in Brazilian rivers by name!
Seems like us folks here can not access this or is it just my puta?
I can find two pages of google links but they all lead nowhere and show as 'Not found on this server'
Drat !
Bill
I have always inlaid mine and set them in an epoxy putty. I always do inlays before frets so that the board can be truly leveled. I usually use a M.O.P. dot, ocasionally Paua shell or box wood, or other contrast hard wood and once for fun some tiny pearl shirt buttons.
I have seen old coins with appropriate dates used and cut coins such as the irish hare, the farthing wren etc.
It is up to you, whatever floats your boat! 
