Forum Activity for @kusani

McSpadden is what I chose as my first and never regretted it.  It is now my loaner. 

If my requests for commissioned, and donated to charities, dulcimers drops off, my other half will call them an 'excess'. 

Inventory? 

Thank you all re the burl maple. I've built quite a few from that tree; as well as a variety of other products. The one in the photo is one of a set of two.

I believe I would chose one of my own builds, #7. It has a burl maple top, walnut/maple back, and walnut sides. The wood is from trees I cut several years ago. 

I believe it's your option.  If if it were me, I would remove the inside melody string.  Inside, meaning the one next to the middle string. 

When I use the term 'traditional' I am only referring to the folks in Appalachia and building their mountain dulcimers. The first standard sheets of plywood were not introduced in the U.S. until around 1928 for general building construction. I doubt they were available for building instruments (dulcimers) in those remote geographical areas until later years. This is not a commentary on the quality of sound of plywood, just an observation of what may be traditional and more contemporary. 

I was just surprised as I have always thought of him as wishing to pay tribute to the more traditional dulcimer lore. 

Ken, do you know why Schnauffer requested laminates for side/back?

Opinions vary on the plain steel, many of us do not like the 'squeak' you get from the wound strings. I don't. There are 'squeakless' base strings that are some what better; but I still prefer plain strings. Try both and see which you prefer. There is no 'right' way on this one. 

Dulci Clan, welcome to the forum!  We have all been where you are in terms of 'starting from scratch'. In fact, I only got into building dulcimers a bit less than 3 years ago.  Fortunately, being retired which means I have a lot of time to devote to the craft; plus having a professional background in several trades, it has greatly shortened my learning curve.  However, it has been with the tremendous help from members of this forum that I have reached the point I now do a few commissioned pieces as well as annually supporting 3 charities' fundraising auctions through the donations of my builds. 

But, in the process of going through the learning curve, which I know will never be completed, I have had to ask what many might consider 'silly' or 'stupid' questions. Fortunately most of the members here were, are still, very patient and kind and want to assist. 

In short, again, welcome and don't hold back with questions.  Also, I spent hours and hours going through old threads on the multitude of topics already discussed or being discussed. They answered many questions before me having to post them here.

As suggested, relax, it's as much an art as science and many of us learn by what doesn't work as much as what does work; but we try to keep mistakes to a minimum. And, we can learn a lot from others mistakes. 

Didn't Ken at one time recommend total area of the sound holes be about the equivalent to the area of four quarters, or was it two? Presently I am working with the 4 quarter equivalent and the instruments have a very good sound; my customers are very pleased. 

Interesting, in that in another topic we have a discussion about 'tradition'.  Yes, some traditions never change and some do over time. ⌛️

I use one wall in our living room and in my office I use single and double folding stands I make myself. 

Tom Dooley?  

Amazing Grace. 

Rocky Top!!!       

Glad they got there, have fun with them. :)

Echoing Ken's comments a bit; don't buy any dulcimer without trying it unless you are a beginner and buying a 'cheapo' to learn on to decide if you want to keep playing and purchase a 'keeper'. 

Sandi, It' going in the mail today. Enjoy. 

I make mine out of black bamboo which I grow on the property.  Send me your name/address and I'll send you one.

I am finding that 10ga, 12ga, and 20ga are working best on the dulcimers I build, but occasionally a 22ga is better. But as most know, a lot of it is simply personal preference. 

I really like the Dava 6924 Grip Tip pick.  Very easy to hold on to and variable stiffness; works great for me. 

"Robert: Most small builders like myself build as a labor of love for the dulcimer. I think I speak for other builders on this site when I say the compensation i get is seeing the joy people get from playing my dulcimers...Robert"

I agree completely.  And, I just can't charge a 'friend' customer for a dulcimer, I ask they make a donation to Habitat for Humanity based on the value I would have charged a 'stranger' customer. To me that makes it a 'win/win'. ....Harry

Great response Dusty!

Strumelia, is there any way you, we, could pick up that site if no one else does?  I believe it is the most important website for tabbed dulcimer music; not to mention the wealth of general information. 

I have no idea how it was supported financially but it could be a great loss if not picked up by somebody or some group. June 1st. isn't that far off......     Strumelia??????

My 'go to' picks are:  https://www.amazon.com/Dava-6024-Grip-Tip/dp/B00154OJOI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522951567&sr=8-2&keywords=dava+grip+tip+pick

I agree with John, and might even do a 'pre-clamp' for practice.  That would help you also be sure you have a sufficient number of clamps; keeping your clamps as close as possible to avoid 'unclamped' areas.

Richard: "I have found that certain instruments sound better on some tunes than others":

Being an amateur builder I thought it was just me.  I have noticed the same thing.  Thank you.   

I don't see how that modification would affect the historic value; you could always move the strings back to their original positions if needed.  Enjoy it....

I found this listing, no longer available, on line..... it may provide some leads?  https://reverb.com/item/1629254-f-w-pete-belcher-jr-8-string-dulcimer-1976-cherry-ebony-gold-new-lower-price

Thanks folks..... that helped a lot. 

Whew...... thanks Strumellia!!!  

Ok, need some help here; I have missed something in my reading.  Please explain 1-5-5?  I do tune the dulcimers I build to Dad. Thanks for any help....

They may not be, despite the same name and same middle initial and both having interest in guitars. Be interesting to pursue it further. 

I believe this is who you are asking about: http://music.unt.edu/faculty-and-staff/thomas-johnson

I would not hesitate to contact him via his email on that website.  Good luck. 

Nice job Ken. :)

On the website, entitled "Luthiers Mercantile International", I did find the following info: 

•  If you are working with minimal equipment and working space (possibly a small area or table in your home) your instrument can be effectively finished by either brushing water-based lacquer, French polishing shellac, or wiping on an oil varnish.  Each of these finishes is non-hazardous and can be safely applied in your home with no more equipment than brushes or cotton cloths.  The oil is the absolute easiest to apply, brushing the water-based lacquer is slightly more involved, and the French polishing requires the most practice and skill.  The resulting instrument finish from any one of these materials can range from merely adequate to true professional level depending on your experience and skill.

As far as the tung oil is concerned, I do use Formby's low gloss tung oil finish; which is not 100% pure. I take the surfaces of the dulcimer to 320 grit. I then use a cloth pad to apply 3 to 5 coats, depending on how it is working with the particular wood I am using at the time. I lightly scuff the surface with 320 between coats. Final is with #0000 steel wool and a wax polish. 

I would like to do that experiment sometime, but not sure my ear is attuned sufficiently to tell a difference.  Nice instruments you are making.... :)