String Gauge Combination Questions
Instruments- discuss specific features, luthiers, instrument problems & questions
Very helpful, thanks!
Assuming I wanted to stay Ionian but three strings only, would 22-10-10 be a concern? I haven't looked elsewhere, but the only Ionian string set sold by McSpadden for a standard mountain dulcimer is 22-12-12 (with an extra 12 if I stay with three strings). Similarly, if I wanted to go Mixolydian would there be a drawback to 22-10-10? The McSpadden Mixolydian string sets have a 23-14-10 (with an extra 10). It seems that they consistently want different gauges on the 2nd (middle) and 3rd (melody) strings for Mixolydian, as opposed to, matched gauges for Ionian. Is the higher gauge on the middle string intended to be more compatible with the increased tension in the 10 melody string when it is tightened to reach D? Is there a consensus that a 10 middle -10 melody is not good for for Ionian? I don't think so, but I thought I would ask. The 10 is easier to fret in Ionian, so I hope the answer is "No"! Thanks!
Wally, thanks for the info, especially about having the bridge inside edge the highest. I wondered about that since the breakover point in the bridge would be hard to determine with a flat slot!
It finally dawned on me that the octave fret (7th fret) has to be dead center as to the VSL or nothing will be right! So, as you indicated, no change to the VSL or it will be a mess! Thank you all!
Thanks for the info and Merry Christmas!
Thanks for these ideas! After Christmas I will probably try replacing the bridge and nut. Did the 1974 McSpadden kits use wood glue or super glue? Will the "rap" work with either, or just the super glue? My current nut and bridge are both just under 5mm wide. I noticed the Delrin replacements are 1/8 inch (3.175mm). Would centering in the slot provide the correct breakover or should I move the Delrin up against the slot wall toward the fretboard? The difference might not be noticeable as long as I stay perpendicular to the strings. Thanks again!
Is there an optimum spacing for the two melody strings, or at least a minimum spacing that would avoid the strings vibrating and touching each other? In general, can existing slots in the bridge and nut be filled in with super glue, wood putty, or something, such that new slots can be cut using different spacing? There may be a partial overlap of the new slot to the old. The strings will be .010's. My bridge and nut are glued in so replacing them would not be fun! Thanks!
Went ahead and made bridge and nut cuts and removed the inner melody string. Now have equidistant three strings. Definitely easier to make a chord!
Thanks for the feedback! I will probably use this for noter/droning which should be less sensitive to any spacing. I may cut nut and bridge grooves to move the bass closer to the edge. I could then remove the inner melody string and have equidistant spacing. Or, I will just look for a second dulcimer with more of a standard spacing and do all the chord and finger picking on that one.
If these don't work let me know. Lynn McSpadden was also doing C-G-cc Ionian. I haven't checked online examples of using a noter, but I did not expect the thumb to be on top. According to Lynn McSpadden in this book, the index finger is used to position the noter and prevent it from moving to far in.
The string rests in the bridge. Another interesting thing about 1974 was that the bass and outer strings are located more toward the center and further from the edge of the fretboard. So all strings are closer. I don't have experience on any other type of dulcimer so it's no skin off my nose. In the "four and twenty" book by Lynn McSpadden that came with the kit he recommends the strumming one beat to be toward the player. The extra space at the edge of the fretboard might make that easier. I play a lot of things with strings but I am starting from scratch on the mountain dulcimer and really looking forward to it! BTW, the Dulcimer Shoppe told me the early 70's kit was about $37 dollars!
Figured it out! The bendover slot from the loop screw to the bridge is not deep enough. It prevents the string from having a good breakover at the bridge, thus adding at least a 1/2 inch to the string length. We pushed down with a pencil just behind the bridge, retuned the open melody strings position and the pitch is now perfect!
We have pulled a 1974 McSpadden kit dulcimer (standard, 28.5", 1.5", zero fret, four string) out of long term storage. My late father-in-law assembled it in 1974 and it was played a total of about 1 hour since then! I tuned it D-A-aa. The bass, middle and outer melody strings keep perfect pitch at all frets. There is no fret damage that I can see. The inner melody string can be tuned to match the outer when open but it is noticeably flat by the 3rd fret and gets worse up the neck. Having the zero fret I don't think the problem is at the nut end. I am going to replace the strings anyway but the originals were not stored in tension and look normal with no corrosion. What could cause this string to behave differently than the other three? Thanks!