Making progress! For clarification @ken-longfield, to set up the action, you put the dime on the fret board, and the nickel on top of the fret?
I use a Myers Pickup, which is a microphone not a pickup. It connects to the instrument in a variety of ways. I use the long carpenter clamp. Specify "long" as the standard will not likely wrap around the instrument. I put the tiny mic inside the f hole, so, yes, it will pick up vibrations from the box, but I could just hover it over the strings. It has it's own little volume control, but doesn't like phantom power.
@marsha-elliott I went in the opposite direction. I started with the bodhrán almost 20 years ago and sat out the slow airs and laments. Two years ago I was given my first dulcimer, and I am almost ready to take it to sessions. It is a good combination, as the dulcimer gets lost in the fast tunes, and people who try playing the bodhrán over the airs and laments are the ones who give it the bad reputation it has. Drum On!
Thanks for the input Nate.
The bridge is actually set into the fretboard in the traditional way. It looks like it has feet because it is wider than the fretboard. But it is loose enough to shift if the strings didn't come in square and it was notched. Based on that, I think I will leave it alone and install a new spacer bar using standard bridge material.
I expect I will play it with a single melody string as I do with my current unit, but I was wondering if I could run a double melody through the same hole in the tail. At this point I have no interest in 4 string equidistant.
You are right Ken. That was one of the things I wondered about.
My major question right now is the spacing of the strings. The spacer behind the bridge and the nut are notched for a double melody, but the middle string does not have a notch in the centre. I want to replace the rather crude spacer, but I wondered about eliminating it and notching the bridge.
While I am playing with the bridge, the action is significantly higher (5mm vs 2mm) at the last fret. I am assuming that is not ideal. The intonation gets progressively sharper as I go up the fretboard. The bridge itself is removable, but weirdly wider than the fretboard.
BTW, a neighbour makes guitars and will have all the tools we need for the above adjustments.
And lastly, for now, can someone comment on using the tuning pegs if you have them. Tuning it was a major task.
Thanks everyone for your input. This is going to be a fun journey.
Art
Hi again. I now have the instrument. I have roughly tuned it using the existing strings and it sounds wonderfull.It has a 27" vsl. The black bar is indeed the bridge. It has no groves cut in, and the piece behind it separates the strings. I took several photos which will not likely fit in this post, so I hope this link works
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1UfqabNZ7fpdn82s3u4COKXHrDiZf9auz?usp=drive_link
After you see the photos, I have a few issues to ask about.
Thanks for you interest.
Art
I paid C$129.00.(plus tax).
Thanks for the feedback everyone. You have given me confidence that I may have a playable instrument.
Btw: T and St meant Tone and Semi-tone, not Tall and Short. Sorry for the confusion.
We are at a disadvantage as I walked away from the store, then bought it over the phone. When I get the instrument I will get and share more detail. The bar is in fact grooved, and I am beginning to think that the first crude "bridge" is there to raise the strings up to level with the fretboard. Note that the board itself drops away at the tailpiece.
Hi Ken. I knocked the photos down to get a few into the forum. The pegs are wood. I don’t see any markings inside through the sound holes. The frets run T, T,St, T, T, St, T, T, T, ST, which I think I have seen before. Can I add a 6½ fret? The top and back are slightly wider than the sides. Again I've seen that before, but forget the term that is used. It is currently set with four equidistant strings, but the bridge and nut seem to be cut for an optional double melody, as there are five slots. Presumably as I replace them, I can do what I want. Not having played it, I have no idea how accurate the frets are. I took pictures and walked away from it, then called back the next day and bought it. So I don't have it in my hands yet.
I picked this up in an antique store in St Jacob's Ont. No markings. Very nice shape other than the bridge and nut which I will replace, and some damage to the scroll head. I'm not sure what the bar in front of the bridge is all about. I've not seen that before. I hope the frets are correct.
Any information or comments would be welcome.
Hi friends. We are doing this beautiful piece in church. I need a dulcimer arrangement.
Thanks
Can I use loop-end strings on ball-end pegs? "New to me" Folkcraft coming from Ebay, but it looks like it has pegs rather than screws.
Art
Thanks Ken. I heard back from them. 27" vsl is correct. They include a 6½, but not a 13½. I asked about position dots. The kit fretboard does not have them and they can't add them, as the fretboard is "machine made". However, they offered to swap out the kit fretboard for their "design your own" fretboard for a reasonable fee and l will have the freedom to add the inlays and extra frets.
It probably won't make much difference, but I feel better about having the fretboard handmade rather than by a machine.
My "good builder" has a few fiddles under his belt, so we should have fun.
One more thing. What did you finish yours with? Again, I'm sure my friend has a varnish he likes for his fiddles, but that may not work on the dulcimer.
Almost time to go log in to QuaranTune5.
Thanks again.
Art
I am interested in reading opinions on the Folkcraft kit. I am waiting for a response from the company for details. Things like vsl, 6½ frets, depth etc.
Has anyone built one?
Final not Fina ( I hate autocorrect)
This works fine. Fina. Version after two prototypes.
I will add one more benefit to @dusty-turtle 's list. On Zoom, those of us without the confidence or talent to go out in public (yet) can hide behind our mute button. I took Erin Mae's chord shapes workshop this morning and got horribly twisted up on occasion, but no one could hear me, so I just kept smiling.
I will be "in" Albany this weekend. I have booked two Beginner workshops and the Saturday concert, and will be lurking at the jam sessions. Looking forward to it.
That would work, Dusty. I am working on a version of Ken's plans as soon as the lockdown ends and I can get into the hardware store to buy a 4" bolt. I had already checked out the listing on Amazon and was not impressed with the customer comments.
I'll post a photo of my creation once I get it made.
Thanks everyone!
Any suggestions on the best place to get a capo? I'm in Canada, so shipping costs will be a factor.
