Forum Activity for @marg

Strumelia,

It is a bit of a mystery. The case doesn't go with the dulcimer but will be used.

 Our group teaches dulcimer lessons at the community college to the 55+ group (continuing education for seniors) and one of out players, is donating this dulcimer. We try and set the beginner  players up with loaners, so they are able to try a number of different dulcimers - to better understand what maybe will work best for them - size, tone, shape, etc. This one has a really easy touch & great action. I cleaned it up & changed the strings & checked for any buzzing but was unable to figure anything about it - other then what I could see. I was just trying to find out as much as I could about it, before placing it in the collection for the students. 

thanks for your thoughts,

marg

Dusty, 

Yes, nothing. 

thanks

After looking at many soundholes, it looks like the classic "f" sound hole.

Anyone recognize the sound holes?  Is the dulcimer maybe  a kit or a low end brand name? Flathead, teardrop, looks like a birch back.  

 dulcimer.jpg - 408KB

(non-completed f-holes)

I am unable to take any more photos, it was someone in the audience we were playing Christmas music for - who had it and I was speaking with him about it. 

(Dulcimer Factory instrument ) they usually have a fatter sound box and a wider fret board but yes, a similar head.

It maybe too much of a mystery without me having it to further check & or photo

thanks guys

ken

( sound holes appear to un-McSpadden )  and the wood.

What about the nut & bridge, can  the way, they are made - ring any bells

thanks, everyone for the possibilities

The group I play with was preforming today and someone from the audience had  - what looks like - it was make from a kit. Who ever made it did a very good job but there is no label or any markings that would give me a hint on maybe the kit used. 

I only have these few photos, the sound hold is very different, maybe a clue. It does have the 6.5 but the older screw tuners & small nails for the string pegs. Also no violin lip/ smooth straight sides. 

Any guesses would be great

thanks

 1000009989.jpg - 73KB

Beth:

Send in the Music ( https://www.sendinthemusic.com/) is a Free Zoom music jam each Saturday out of Fla.  there is a couple 

Jan & Hamish Cormie who usually play Welsh music, Men of Harlech (DGD)  & Grand Old Duke of York (DGD) - Arr Jan Cormie

If you don't know them, maybe you could contact them - write to Pat, she could help you out ( pat@sendinthemusic.com )

I talked about how we should handle our dulcimers in class (that you mention Dwain) & your workshop. We are just  north of Houston and it seems one of our players was planning on going to the Pocono Festival and will look for when your workshop is posted to registrar. 

Thanks, that will be great

marg.

(a workshop for builders and repairers on how to fix )

this would be so helpful, wish I was closer. What a good idea, I have often thought of using an older (with problems) dulcimer to demonstrate a few things, to the newer players.

Good information Dwain, I think I will share this with my class tomorrow. 

Thank you again,

  All good & I took everyones advice and supported the sound hole, not just the one with the crack but I glued some wood under the overhangs in all the sound holes

  Yes, very glad to I was able to repair the crack and learn much, along the way. 

marg

 repaired crack.jpg - 370KB

I went ahead and reinforce all of the sound holes since each one has the grain running the same way and no support under neigh them.

  Interesting, always learning something new - this time, the shapes of sound holes and what support they have under neigh them. I went and check all my dulcimers and the students ones also. Most all others have smaller sound holes without such an unprotected curve. 

thanks again

marg

Everything coming along well, I peeked & it looks good but keeping it clamped till tomorrow. 

  It made such a loud crack noise when it happened, maybe I should be glad it wasn't a larger crack.

  Is there any reason why it would have crack or been weak to crack -  because of it's age or how it was stored for years, or, or , or? Is it just soft wood and fragile by the sound holes? What should I be careful for, just be careful?

Again, thanks for the guidance 

Thanks Ken will give this a try. I have tape on the inside now but was wondering if thin wood & glue would be better (hadn't thought of a business card). I will pick up some slow-set glue, I think mine is just the regular 10 second superglue. The  tape can stay on the inside till later if I decide I should have a bit more reinforcement. 

  Should I address the other sound hole to reinforce on the inside or just leave be?

  Not really sure how it cracked. I was setting up before the St Paddy Day performance and with the tight area and everyone else setting up & passing bags & things back behind us & over us - did I just lay my hand on the soundboard by the sound hole - I just don't know

  I know this must have been asked several times but if I wanted to try and take care of a crack in (maybe spruce top)  soundboard - this is my Bob Lazenby Greenbriar Dulcimer, I just finished fixing the end pins & was going to use it today, at the St Paddy play. 

  What to use wood glue, supper glue - what about on the inside under the crack to reinforce, maybe some wood filler or a little piece of wood glued to the underside, for extra support????   

  The piece is still in tack, try and glue in the seam and tape to hold together, or take off and glue back on?

  Not sure how it crack, it did seem to follow the grain, about an inch. I was getting ready to play and maybe just laid my hand on the dulcimer - just not sure but it's at a point where the cut out section of the sound hole could come off

  Photo is still with taped, did this at the performance today. Looking for some information before I take the tape off. 

thanks in advance

marg

 crack.jpg - 393KB

very nice

(Fas-n-Tite Brass (plated) Linoleum Nails - Those and a toothpick in the old hole might be a good choice.)

Thanks

Wally:  right - other 2 are brass pins. Just deciding if I would go with the same type or replace all 3 with something else - yes, choices.

thanks

Thanks Robert -

Thanks Ken - (Glue the dowel in to the hole using wood glue. )

Thanks Ken,

I think  the  geared violin tuners like Wittners - may be something to try. I don't want to widen the holes so, I may just keep the Sam Carroll with it's pegs. I have changed the ones in my Warren May dulcimers with the Grovers, without any adjustments. I don't want to do anything to the dulcimer, that couldn't be undone - like putting screws on the sides for gears. 

Side note:  The Lazenby dulcimer I just got is missing it's end Bass pin. (Looks to me as if someone maybe tried tightening the string and instead of it breaking, it just pulled the pin out.) Should I find an end pin like the others or replace all 3 - also should I put wood filler in the stripped hole?

 end pins.jpg - 172KB

"Greenbriar", I think was the name of the dulcimer shop.

Yes, the one you saw posted looks to be the same. This one,  was a custom one made back in '89 for someone. Bob Lazenby, joined FOTMD a few years ago but after his welcome - nothing ever was posted. With your help and everyone here (I read the post from about 8 yrs ago on adding a fret or not, to one of Bob's dulcimers), maybe all the information I will find out but its a beautiful dulcimer and plays so nicely.

It just needs a few fixes (like one of the end pins is missing - trying to decide wood filler & another pin or all new something) but soon, I hope to be strumming and let it's voice ring.

thank you all

Thanks Ron for you reply and the images of the 2 different woods.

  Someone I play dulcimer with thought it was Birdseye, I was just going on that. It's a Greenbrian Pigeon River dulcimer by Bob Lazenby.

  You're probably correct, you would know and  your 2 photos  - this dulcimer doesn't look like the eyes in your photo but maybe more like the Leopard Wood grain. It didn't sound like the Birdseye made a good tonewood, so good it's not that. If it's Leopard Wood, hopefully that is a better wood for dulcimers. Are you familiar with Bob's Greenbrian dulcimers? I can't find out much information on them. 

  I love listening to your dulcimer samples on your web page. I tell many of the new players to check your site out. I have one of your capos but not one of your dulcimer's, as of yet. Thank you very much for your reply & steering me away from thinking - Birdseye

John,

It is a lovely looking instrument with the Birdseye maple,  nicely done

Ken,

Thanks for the information. 

Ambrosia maple vs Birdseye maple - both maple but a good bit different - interesting.

( Flat sawn wood is not particularly recommended for instrument building as it makes the wood more difficult to bend without splitting. - After the finished applied, it is fairly stable.)      Hope so

 What thoughts were you looking for:

(quality of it as a wood for a dulcimer or prone to cracking problems?)

I know nothing about the wood, was looking for some information - anything someone knew about Birdseye Maple, as a dulcimer wood

thanks for your thoughts:

Yes, it does have a brighter sound - it has very good responsive.

Thoughts on the quality of it as a wood for a dulcimer. Maybe used more in the past for guitars but other woods maybe better now as tone woods or any problems with cracking?

Photo of an older dulcimer, that so far is in beautiful shape.

Thoughts on a  Birdseye Maple dulcimer - back & sides?

Good hearing from you Robin, we have missed your post. I hope you and all have a Happy, Healthy Holiday Season.

Thanks Ken, I had not considered  geared violin tuners - may need to look into them.

Yes, many of us knew of Gary's health issues but you wouldn't know speaking with him.

  I was able to get one of his deep body dulcimers not long ago, it is so easy to fret and has such a great overall tone. It is a treasure and more so now. When I did speak with Gary, after getting his dulcimer, he was so pleasant talking about his dulcimers and shop. He will be missed not only by his family and friends but all of the dulcimer community. 

Keeping him and his love ones in my heart

Thanks Ken but the little dots are in the Ebony fret board, they are not the pearl place markers. I will look into the fret board conditioners, that would be good to have on hand. 

I have cleaned the dulcimer and it now looks like new. You can see the difference between grimy strum hollow before & updated photo attached. 

I lower the action, just a hair to make it easier to play and sing as I slide up the fret board. It is a Prussia Valley Butternut & Walnut 3" deep dulcimer, I knew under the grim it would be beautiful with a full tone - and it is.

Thanks for all your help

Oh, I blacken the 1.5 until I get use to it - it will wear off in no time.

 Gary Sager.jpg - 58KB

Ok, I got rid of the grime - thanks, that's all it was in the strum hollow -

The ebony fretboard still has the little dots (not as much but still there) and looking like it's needs oil or something to bring it back & protect it.

Need to clean an older dulcimer, I just got and I'm not sure how it was protected in the past - 

What would be the best to use:

Murphy oil soap, or lemon oil, or Howard's wood feed, or an instrument cleaner and what type. Mostly in just this spot of the strum hollow but a few little dots on the ebony fretboard.

Can it be cleaned or is it in the wood?

see attached photo

thanks,

m.

 strum hollow.jpg - 115KB

Special members greeting new members -

thanks 

(tuning is 1s and 5s)

sorry but what is that - could you say like Gg's or Aa's or Dd's

I checked your FB - what size strings do you have on it & what is it tuned to? Sounds lovely

What a good idea