Forum Activity for @nathina

I fixed the tuning pegs. They are holding extremely well so there is no need for beads. The strings will be replaced to lighter gauge which is a trick I use to have pegs hold even better. Another thing, every time I have seen someone discuss peg "lube" they point to the insertion point, but there are two friction points on each tuner. The insertion and the exit. Both need to be prepped. 

On this instrument for some reason they were using a 0.32 on the bass string. Perhaps attempting to make a baritone dulc, but although the pegs will now hold it, they were not meant to be under that much tension. There are a few other tricks I was taught.

This is the fully restored fret board and soundboard of the The John A Maxwell. Waiting for appropriate string set. Now onto repairing the case. Tuning has been checked and frets are good. Kept the lucite nut and bridge which was a trademark of his. I'll do a before and after on parts of the case when finished.

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nut to fret 26.5. It is coming back to fine shape. I am working on restoring it. Removing on dents and scratches, outlining sound holes, readjusting string.Currently working on the fret board removing any marks and polishing. It will be as new when I am finished. Maxwell #2645, 1974. I still have the wooden case to fix. The instrument is almost done. Just waiting for new shipment of strings.

Pictures of the back, not a scratch and really shines, and a finished sound hole with a minimal outline.

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I wonder if I could make one out of modeling clay? Actually the pegs after reconditioning are holding well and the variation is within 10 cents.

I have seen the beads but I am not familiar with what they do. Where are they obtained, or are they just "beads"?

Just finishing off the head.  Just need to polish. This is the peg paste I use.

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There won't be unnecessary changes unless they have to be made to make the unit playable. Museum style restoration, fixes the finish, removes dents and scratches, may recolor or change the stain if necessary. He used lucite nuts and bridges which stay. It will be the same instrument, only will like it was just made (I hope). This will be for resale. I was thinking about making it into a baritone which seem popular at the present, but will leave it as it is, unless it won't sell. Although it it turns out as i hope, I might not want to part with it.

Just received a John A Maxwell that I am refurbishing. So far peg holes are round and tapered. Strings are being replaced and laid properly. Never sure why somebody has to use the entire string length on the pegs. Pegs will be refinished. All dings fixed. And the action will be adjusted, way too high. Will be fixing its wooden case. By the time I am finished it will be museum quality refinishing and ready to go. Frets are now placed properly. This is a fat hour glass version 4 str. Ball Strings to be replaced This is walnut on walnut I think. Added strap buttons. I will post pics when finished.

I am wondering if I shouldn't change the pegs to starite tuners. What do you think? I seems that very few understand violin peg tuning.

Here is Bflat Major and Bflat Minor. If you F string is more towards the F# then it is minor. Otherwise if it is F, then major.

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This is a pre fire 1983 one of his. I will see when it comes. He changed his style after the fire. Before the fire he used tuning pegs, after he went to mechanical. Once it comes I will get in touch. I also have information about his fire in 1983.

I seem to have gone on a buying spree for christmas. A few to fix, and some to sell I hope, to pay for what I bought. This time of year with COVID is just terrible.

I have seen Jim Good mentioned as a dulcimer maker on the site. What can anyone tell me about his dulcimers, and who does the paintings? I just bought an older one and it will eventually arrive. It looks great, how it plays?

Hopefully not to add confusion to the action, after reading a thread earlier, the dime should fit under the 1st fret space. According to Ken, not on the fret, and the nickel should fit under the 7th fret space. Adjusting the action for the 1st fret space would be at the nut, for the 7th would be at the bridge. Is this correct? Does the string just touch the dime or the nickel?

There was obviously some discourse on that thread that made it unclear.

Thanks.

It is hard to find these luthiers. Thanks Ken. 

Looking for info on two dulcimer makers. 1 is Author West, 2 Henry C Desler. I have looked through some archives and books and haven't beenbable to find anything about them or quality of build.

Anyone have a pic of the front of the dulcimer from neck to base for John T Tignor

Will do thanks

And what does a "Thomas" design mean exactly?

I think I have traced the movement which started bigtime to 1978. By the 80's "everyone" (not everyone) wanted DAd. Music also started changing becoming harder to find DAa tabs. I guess they somehow would pin the 2nd string at the third fret? Not sure how they would pin it, especially if they were noting.

I will call him. I can fix the tuners without any "real" modification. Recommend that I don't add 6.5 unless he demands it and fix the case. I will also remove any dents to invisibility so it will be pristine. A good cleaning, maybe new strings and bring it back to new. I can also match the patina. I will post it when it is done. I should also ask him the number to see what time this might have been made. Wish there was a time line somewhere. Wonder if there are any archives?

I have a way of filling in dings and matching restoring the look. 

If the pegs are in good condition I will clean and adjust them. There are a couple of items that are available to enlarge the peg body itself without loosing anything to the wood. Do you know when a 6.5 fret became the defacto or when eveyone decided to go from 1-5-5 to 1-3-8 (DAa toDAd)

I did read all the links here. I can ask the owner for a number.  From what he tells me there is no 6 1/2 which would make the dulcimer around 1970ish. Did he use solids or veneer? His tuners were wooden pegs. So I will probably have to redo that for her. Should I upgrade it for him for a 6.5, or leave it pre / 1970s. This has a wooden custom box, that accompanies it, which I can fix easily. I am trying to find some pics of his obviously upgrade pre 70's. Revels I believe has his new ones or those within the last few years of manufacturer. Hope people don't mind me asking difficult questions?

He stopped building in the late 1970s. That is about all I know. He built about 3000 dulc, and was from Cookeville TN. Cannot really find any pictures re his builds or prices? Did he ever add 6.5 fret and if so when did he start. Thanks. I believe he added a sound hole into the 4th fret.

I make my own strings when necessary.

It's beautiful but wow what a price!

Nice Dulcimer. The rosette on the lute is lovely. I guess when you are talking about being a simpler to play lute you are comparing it to the Irish lute?

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I was hoping for a comparison in tones etc. Some are better for strumming, others are louder as Dusty says, some are more mellow even with the same woods. Some are specifically designed for noters having flatter frets. Even potato chips can have differences. Lays original, light not too greasy, Ruffles, more solid not very light etc.

Is this a Tie or is one more recommended than the other? Both are good but which of the older instruments were better?

Here is a comparison I haven't seen between Ewing hourglass and a Gardener tear drop.Both are set for 4 stings. The older Gardener is probably Cherry top and I need to see the back pics yet,  the Ewing is Walnut. Both are older instruments. Both are good builders. The Ewing in old enough to come with a wooden case. There are no "abalone" inserts on ewing, the gardener has them. The ewing fret board is undercut at the strum hollow. The gardener is has no signature scallops under the fret board, probably dating it maybe it is 1991. 

Currently still investigating, working with the seller, to try to figure out what he really has or if he even has it. Still have reached no conclusion. May be a simple mistake on his part. Asking for more pics, and will continue to speak with him. He is finally coming out of his shell. Don't want to not help a vet, if he needs the help, but obviously don't want to buy a copy. Thanks everyone.

Update, the has gone missing. How strange. Oh well.