Help with restoring a 1962 Arthur Dixon dulcimer?
Instruments- discuss specific features, luthiers, instrument problems & questions
Josephus book of antiquities page 438 b ...under pre Viking design concepts.........
Josephus book of antiquities page 438 b ...under pre Viking design concepts.........
The long thin strips across the bottom helps keep the bottom from splitting, they also provide a thicker area of mounting for the top support posts. Effectively they tie the top and bottom together, transmitting the vibration of the top to the rest of the instrument. They also keep the top and bottom from flexing too much under the tension of the strings and the players pressing down on them. Not unlike the sound post in a violin or cello. Do you "need" all of them, or any of them......maybe. Can they be more of a delicate design instead of "barn beam" style? ? Perhaps you would be fine with just the one near the bridge end?
I know the positioning of the "one little" sound post in a violin/cello can make a HUGE difference in the tone...
As for your ancient viking style tuners......Please let us see how the battle goes......
Wow....That peg box looks like it came up from the ocean floor in an old viking ship....
I think [if it was my project] I'd start by cleaning out those broken pegs and other "stuff" in that box, cutting the strings away first. It almost looks as if the string tension was high enough to snap the pegs {rotten?} off without spitting the box? if it is still sound, clean and replace pegs with re claimed violin pegs, self carved or for "function" , machine tuners...YOUR preference.
The rib crack[s] can be a little tricky, if you only want function, a thin strip of opposing/angled grained wood clamped internally should do the trick. The broken curve on the upper bout is the most challenging, as you need to get it back to the original curve, and reinforce it so it doesn't do it again. Either make a solid piece clamping form using the "good" side as a template, or I have seen using plaster of paris to make a mold of it, making a form perhaps 3-4 inches thick to give something to clamp to.
From what I can see, your top and bottom seem to be intact. Looks like all of it was put together with hide glue, hot water and a 3M pad should clean old glue residue fairly well. Once the old glue is cleaned off of the wood, MY preference is Titebond II, perhaps keeping these repairs from being needed in the next 60+ years...?
Don't know what your "shop" has for tools and clamps and such. Shoot me a message and I can send you some thin stock for cleats and reinforcement....
Best of luck on your upcoming battle.....
Points to ponder.... If your instrument is 17.25 inches over all, I'm supposing some of that length is headstock and tail? So perhaps we're dealing with a VSL of 13-14 ish? Most mandolins are about 14 inches VSL [They tune G3-D4-A5-E5] So perhaps a set of mando strings could be a starting point? And you get a few spares.... Your tuning can be the same notes as any other dulcimer, but you are going to be in a HIGHER OCTAVE generally.
With your bridge placed where it looks "right", string and tune 1 open string to pitch. Going to the 1st fret and so forth, your notes should progress in step, if not, re position bridge, re tune and try again. Once you are good to the first fret, move on down and fine adjust down the line. Once you're good with one string, go and string up the rest. With a VSL this short, there is not a lot of forgiveness.
If you are able, a picture or two of this "mini" would be appreciated.
Perhaps "coincidence"...But the last 2 out of three dulcimers I've sold have gone to folks looking to start learning to play., in part because of that little segment on late night TV...
I always recommend FOTMD to my new customers, it is truly a gem of a resource for anyone with an interest!
Perhaps over simplification, but if the only variable is the strings, Longer and thicker gauges [and therefore higher tensions] will vibrate longer on any given length for the same tuning. As an example a .024 tuned to D3 on a 22 inch VSL [about 12.5 pounds of tension] will not vibrate as long as the same string used on a 36 inch VSL with the same tuning [39.2 pounds].
In the proverbial nutshell, longer dulcimer strings [VSL] usually mean a longer "sustain" of each note played. You can coax a bit more out of a shorter scale by going thicker on the strings , but only to a point. Finger comfort and tension on the instrument can get excessive.
Sometimes faults and scars make some beautiful sweet sounds.....
Gett'n ready for the revival..........
Everyone can SEE he's Sharp.......couldn't resist......
Hmmm...I was wondering if I should install a 6 1/5 before I offer it for sale. nah. Perhaps I'll just offer the option.
SO many options for such a simple instrument.
Thanks Dusty!
Kinda' related to the 6 1/2.... Pulled out what I think is an old Hughes kit dulcimer...it doesn't have a 6 1/2, but it DOES have a 3 1/2..Why?
Any ideas?.....asking for a friend...
https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_guitar_tension_from_size.htm
Here is a good string calculator, that also shows what percentage of breaking strength you get into with different sizes and type of strings [plain/wound etc]. I used a different one to show "whole instrument" tensions for you. For the different tuning of DAAA and DAdd you can see how the melody strings vary from about 25% breaking strength at A3 to 42% at d4.
I tend to play with these tools more when I'm trying to replace the odd missing strings on harps, but it can get to be fun trying to see what can work with different VSL s ...
Short answer.... .012 .012 .014..and a wound .024 should work fine....
Great job! I assume you got the case too. Easily worth twice what you paid. Seems to be in fine shape as well.
Just about everything that goes out my door is strung with 2x .012 melodies [d] 1x .014 [A] and 1x .024 [D].
Cleaning "should" be about the same as your guitar, but I suspect the finish is shellac, so be careful with anything alcohol based as it will dissolve the finish. 000/0000 steel wool for the frets and fingerboard, a bit of oil if it seems dry.
You've got a nice piece of history to care for now, [oh how I wish they could talk], welcome to the adventure............
I've done some custom orders of Aeolian harps just for those "ambient" tones and backgrounds.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n8QLd3SzYomXtscwucIa7KAMWu8_p9Gv/view?usp=sharing
No insult intended....just my attempt at humor.
And where, pray tell, is your album available?
Perhaps Beef liver, or poison Ivy rashes......
Jonnyd....Sorry to have digressed on your initial post...But I hope it gives you a small glimpse into this community that is FOTMD. This site is filled with folks like Ken that are passionate and more than willing to help you in all things Dulcimer. [and quite a bit more if you ask...]
I just happened to notice that you and your D50-S are located across the pond. This brings your sale to a whole new level, as I have absolutely no idea as to the supply/demand in the UK. I DO know that the shipping of a Dulcimer [or Aeolian harp] to the UK from these hallowed shores is easily in the $100 range, and then there are the VAT and customs fees. Seems like we Americans always focus on English taxes....
I have only been part of FOTMD for a year [happy anniversary to me]... But perhaps Ken or some of the Veterans know how to find or join groups in the UK? To perhaps find what your market is?
john
I may be just a bit cynical..[well maybe more than I should be...] But a New d-series at Folkcraft will set you back a thousand dollars. Is there something more than 2 frets I'm missing? Or is the workmanship 10x better now?
The used market is an interesting place...The "older" players I engage with seem to lean towards more frets, newer builders, and tend to be more afflicted with DAS. Effectively hoarding the used instrument market....
The "newer" college age players, are leaning towards fewer frets, and traditional "revival" instruments. Perhaps there will yet be a new resurgence in the "old ways" that were new to us so many years ago...
I foresee a HUGE tidal wave of used instruments hitting the market in the next 10 years or so, as the heirs of the DAS folks wonder what to do with closets full of "somedays"....that need to be cleaned out.
No time like today to get a youngster involved!
Hello Jonnyd,
If you give a quick web search for D 50 Dulcimer [I use duck duck go..] You'll find several old listings on the "REVERB" sale pages, and a bit of history of these instruments. Yours has a spruce top, and what I would consider a very nicely figured black walnut back, sides and headstock. The fret board top "may" be of some other wood, as I can't really tell from the picture. If not walnut, could be mahogany, rosewood or?
Sale prices looked to be in the area of 3-500 [ish], But again, this depends on finding the right buyer, case, shipping etc. I would suggest that you take some time and peruse this site and the multiple forums....perhaps the best "buyer" could be some one that has never discovered in over 30 years just how much joy a dulcimer and the "community" around it can bring......
Best wishes for your New Year....
Yet another reason to take up the Didgeridoo......Sure is pretty though!
Well said Wally, well said.
As to the old saying however.....
Actually........ Rocket Propulsion Altitude/Ambient Pressure Adjustment • Can use variable frequency expansion ratio nozzles -extendable, two-step nozzles e.g., RL-10B-2 on Delta IV 2nd stage..............
will do....probably won't start excavating tll tomorrow...I'll let you know either way
$329. Free Shipping
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Found this on line....I'll see if I have anything close
No promises....Just a LOT of old parts in the shop.... Do you have a picture of what they looked like?
I don't know the source....might help a bit?
I think Homer would be proud....And I didn't know congradtulations were in order too! Well done my good fellow!
Just throwing in my 2 cents of cynicism...{meant with goodwill and humor]
The absolute best display you can find for an extra dulcimer, is on the lap of a youngster that wants to play.
Un-played old dulcimers, regardless of maker or quality of craftsmanship are just dusty pieces of wood. They have perceived
value to an ever shrinking [dying] pool of us old hippies, in the memories of times past. The actual cash value is only when
they are sold, and that is "usually" at the death of the owner.....
I implore us all to share the "Extra" instruments we may have with someone younger, lest all of our instruments become the
ones that "used to sing"......
I'm work'n on it too........
Oh please tell me they both marched away into the foggy dew............
So Nate......Care to share your small batch recipe???? I'm "re attempting" my elderberry blossom "cordial".....Last time it ended up like rocket fuel....
Glad to see you on the mend. Try and rest, seek some sunshine, and the opportunity you have to be "in the garden" where you're never alone....
Shalom
Sorry for the confusion....I have bought one. At an extremely low price, but it is in Rogers Ar, and I'm in Illinois. My quest is to either have some one help me pick/pack it up and ship it to me [all costs/fees paid in advance]. Or... If there is some one who could use/needs one, I would flat out "gift" it to them. I'm sure it needs some TLC, how much or little I do not know at this point. Although I do not play HD [yet], I've always tried to get instruments into the hands of those who strive to, but are "acquisition" challenged through cost or life getting in the way....
Looking for someone near Rogers Arkansas interested in a VERY inexpensive Hammered dulcimer, or for help in shipping it to me? anybody.....
Having set up many violins & cellos etc over the years....You may want to explore using a sound post. Not really a "dulcimer" thing, but you're an outside the box kinda guy anyway. If you Google "adjustable soundposts" you will find much info good and bad about using them in so- called "real" instruments... Bottom line, is that moving the amount and location of tension to the vibrating surfaces [top and bottom] can and does change the tonal qualities. I suggest an adjustable only because there are no standard rules when it comes to dulcimers and the dimensions. Instead of having to re mount your strings, an adjustable may give you more room to play around, or just source some dowel rod and have at it..[or pencils, chopsticks,...] Changing the tensions to the body and try and find the "sweet" spot[s] if any? Then we'll have to find out if heart holes with pointy bottoms sound as good as rounded ones......
just the meanderings of a wandering mind......
Sitting here looking at a dozen or so instruments...staples, frets, wound wire, straight wire, oak, maple, rosewood. No two are alike, yet I would call them ALL dulcimers. If I spoke in elizabethan english I may say "dulcimore", and if I was a kid in the mountains I might say "that stringy thang"... And guitars with hollow bodies, solid, whammy bars etc are ALL guitars...But as for men with only a mustache and no beard.....well...."technically".....
Years ago, a decent chromatic tuner would run $35 and up. Korg comes to mind. Now there are loads of clip on type, that all perform OK, but my overall favorite is the Snark ST-2 model. Sells for about $13 on Amazon, What I like is that it is fully chromatic, so you are not tied to "presets" for different instruments, it has a nice bright easy to see display, and best of all it has the ability to use vibration or its own internal mic. [vibration mode helps in a noisy environment, as it's picking up your instrument, not everybody else]. It helps that it is built a little stronger on body than most other clip ons, and the clip has a good spring and grip.
Although I don't have one of those newfangled cellular telephones,[I don't even have an oldfangled one].....I think you could probably find an "app" tuner if you looked.