Forum Activity for @john-petry

er wait...I guess one of the images worked....go figure

Don't bother with the attachments...They didn't turn out...

I did a quick look through E-bay and Reverb sites & completed sales..Selling on the high end for 900 ish, low end 3-4.

hundreds.

I do say though, yours is the best looking one!

Right after I make my 2nd million in instrument sales......[I've given up on the first]......

I think the swelling member count is due to the free swag bags of merch being offered to new members. String sets, jars of "jam", and Turtle polishing cloths........

Probably easier to get out of the basement than the aircraft was.....

Nice build.....Will it fly?

You, my friend, are the inspiration! After your query, I did a search as well, finding that no one is making them any longer.....So being the struggling mercenary....I hope to make my fortune.....

Can't find the right words this morning......a few tears though. [in the good way]...Thank you.

Pettreemusic.com  has them in stock. Not the "hall" brand however. I did speak to Jenn over at Crystal flutes...they "may" in the future start making theirs again. The are more concentrated on the flutes at this time.

Correct....I can't claim credit for the "hack"....but it's nice, simple, and worth a heap more than the .15 cent investment.........

I've heard this before [from Skip perhaps...] but a dime just before the first fret, and a nickel on top of the 7th. Do the dime [nut] first, then attack the bridge. As you are probably aware, it's a lot easier taking off not enough than taking off too much.....

VERY nice! I really like the headstock neck area....impressive.

Thanks for sharing.

https://www.amazon.com/Imelod-Contact-Microphone-Ukulele-Mandolin/dp/B01M5IB4X7

This one is nice in that it has only a 10 inch lead so you don't have wire hanging all over. The lead is braid instead of plain plastic. "looks" like some of the more expensive ones.... That being said, I know of no manufacturer that uses a different piezo element in its' pick ups.The plastic housings may look different, but electronically and mechanically they ALL are the same. The price points are based on marketing, not what is inside. And at under 10 bucks it is sure worth the trying either way......

I would suggest perhaps using a small square of "alien tape" to affix to the dulcimers top, no worries then of double sided tape marring your good looks.....

Remember to "dab" the area...don't "wipe", In case there is residual pencil marks etc,you don't want to rub them off.

I've exposed some "made for xxx" or dedications and poems over the years....Enjoy the quest!

That is SO nice! I always wished some of these instruments could talk and tell the tales of the past....Yours comes pretty close!  A water wet q-tip brushed over the old scratches may bring out enough contrast to read them...It'll evaporate with no harm done...

If they ask you to "jam" ....It's not the strawberry kind......

 I wistfully think about some day having a flat-headed one......

And then there were three......That's how it starts.

If you are not in a dulcimer group, try and find one.   https://southernwisconsindulcimerclub.com/about/

This group is in Janesville, don't know if it's close to you.

Offer lessons? Offer to stumble along with another novice, learning together? The music may not sound great, but the fellowship is nice....

Just doing some quick "shop think'n"  A thin strip of wood or metal/brass/copper as a cover, mounted flush with the peg box might give it a nice "it was built that way" look? Would help stabilize the tuners in the slot, and cover any mounting screws?

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Bizarre is using bunt pans.....Love yer stuff Nate!

Seriously tho....Looking at the peg head, is it perhaps probable that it started with simple pegs, and this was an attempt to put in machine tuners that "looked" original?  Robert, give a look and see if the peg hole continues on the other side.....

Josephus book of antiquities page 438 b ...under pre Viking design concepts.........

The long thin strips across the bottom helps keep the bottom from splitting, they also provide a thicker area of mounting for the top support posts. Effectively they tie the top and bottom together, transmitting the vibration of the top to the rest of the instrument. They also keep the top and bottom from flexing too much under the tension of the strings and the players pressing down on them. Not unlike the sound post in a violin or cello. Do you "need" all of them, or any of them......maybe. Can they be more of a delicate design instead of "barn beam" style? ? Perhaps you would be fine with just the one near the bridge end?

I know the positioning of the "one little" sound post in a violin/cello can make a HUGE difference in the tone...

As for your ancient viking style tuners......Please let us see how the battle goes......

Wow....That peg box looks like it came up from the ocean floor in an old viking ship....

I think [if it was my project] I'd start by cleaning out those broken pegs and other "stuff" in that box, cutting the strings away first. It almost looks as if the string tension was high enough to snap the pegs {rotten?} off without spitting the box? if it is still sound, clean and replace pegs with re claimed  violin pegs, self carved or for "function" , machine tuners...YOUR preference.

The rib crack[s] can be a little tricky, if you only want function, a thin strip of opposing/angled grained wood clamped internally should do the trick. The broken curve on the upper bout is the most challenging, as you need to get it back to the original curve, and reinforce it so it doesn't do it again. Either make a solid piece clamping form using the "good" side as a template, or I have seen using plaster of paris to make a mold of it, making a form perhaps 3-4 inches thick to give something to clamp to.

From what I can see, your top and bottom seem to be intact. Looks like all of it was put together with hide glue, hot water and a 3M pad should clean old glue residue fairly well. Once the old glue is cleaned off of the wood, MY preference is Titebond II, perhaps keeping these repairs from being needed in the next 60+ years...?

 Don't know what your "shop" has for tools and clamps and such. Shoot me a message and I can send you some thin stock for cleats and reinforcement....

Best of luck on your upcoming battle.....

Points to ponder.... If your instrument is 17.25 inches over all, I'm supposing some of that length is headstock and tail? So perhaps we're dealing with a VSL of 13-14 ish?  Most mandolins are about 14 inches VSL [They tune G3-D4-A5-E5] So perhaps a set of mando strings could be a starting point? And you get a few spares.... Your tuning can be the same notes as any other dulcimer, but you are going to be in a HIGHER OCTAVE generally.

With your bridge placed where it looks "right", string and tune 1 open string to pitch. Going to the 1st fret and so forth, your notes should progress in step, if not, re position bridge, re tune and try again. Once you are good to the first fret, move on down and fine adjust down the line. Once you're good with one string, go and string up the rest. With a VSL this short, there is not a lot of forgiveness.

If you are able, a picture or two of this "mini" would be appreciated.

Perhaps "coincidence"...But the last 2 out of three dulcimers I've sold have gone to folks looking to start learning to play., in part because of that little segment on late night TV...

 I always recommend FOTMD to my new customers, it is truly a gem of a resource for anyone with an interest!

Perhaps over simplification, but if the only variable is the strings, Longer and thicker gauges [and therefore higher tensions] will vibrate longer on any given length for the same tuning. As an example a .024 tuned to D3 on a 22 inch VSL [about 12.5 pounds of tension] will not vibrate as long as the same string used on a 36 inch VSL with the same tuning [39.2 pounds].

In the proverbial nutshell, longer dulcimer strings [VSL] usually mean a longer "sustain" of each note played. You can coax a bit more out of a shorter scale by going thicker on the strings , but only to a point. Finger comfort and tension on the instrument can get excessive.

Sometimes faults and scars make some beautiful sweet sounds.....

 Willie.png - 1MB

Gett'n ready for the revival..........

Everyone can SEE he's Sharp.......couldn't resist......

Hmmm...I was wondering if I should install a 6 1/5 before I offer it for sale.  nah. Perhaps I'll just offer the option.

SO many options for such a simple instrument.

Thanks Dusty!

Kinda' related to the 6 1/2.... Pulled out what I think is an old Hughes kit dulcimer...it doesn't have a 6 1/2, but it DOES have a 3 1/2..Why?

Any ideas?.....asking for a friend...

https://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_guitar_tension_from_size.htm

Here is a good string calculator, that also shows what percentage of breaking strength you get into with different sizes and type of strings [plain/wound etc]. I used a different one to show "whole instrument" tensions for you. For the different tuning of DAAA and DAdd you can see how the melody strings vary from about 25% breaking strength at A3 to 42% at d4.

I tend to play with these tools more when I'm trying to replace the odd missing strings on harps, but it can get to be fun trying to see what can work with different  VSL s ...

Short answer....    .012  .012   .014..and a wound .024 should work fine....

 DAAA.png - 121KB

Great job! I assume you got the case too. Easily worth twice what you paid. Seems to be in fine shape as well.

Just about everything that goes out my door is strung with 2x .012 melodies [d] 1x .014 [A] and 1x .024 [D].

Cleaning "should" be about the same as your guitar, but I suspect the finish is shellac, so be careful with anything alcohol based as it will dissolve the finish.  000/0000 steel wool for the frets and fingerboard, a bit of oil if it seems dry.

You've got a nice piece of history to care for now, [oh how I wish they could talk], welcome to the adventure............

I've done some custom orders of Aeolian harps just for those "ambient" tones and backgrounds.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n8QLd3SzYomXtscwucIa7KAMWu8_p9Gv/view?usp=sharing

No insult intended....just my attempt at humor.

And where, pray tell, is your album available?

Perhaps Beef liver, or poison Ivy rashes......

Jonnyd....Sorry to have digressed on your initial post...But I hope it gives you a small glimpse into this community that is FOTMD. This site is filled with folks like Ken that are passionate and more than willing to help you in all things Dulcimer. [and quite a bit more if you ask...]

  I just happened to notice that you and your D50-S are located across the pond. This brings your sale to a whole new level, as I have absolutely no idea as to the supply/demand in the UK. I DO know that the shipping of a Dulcimer [or Aeolian harp] to the UK from these hallowed shores is easily in the $100 range, and then there are the VAT and customs fees. Seems like we Americans always focus on English taxes....

  I have only been part of FOTMD for a year [happy anniversary to me]... But perhaps Ken or some of the Veterans know how to find or join groups in the UK? To perhaps find what your market is?

john

I may be just a bit cynical..[well maybe more than I should be...] But a New d-series at Folkcraft will set you back a thousand dollars. Is there something more than 2 frets I'm missing? Or is the workmanship 10x better now?

The used market is an interesting place...The "older" players I engage with seem to lean towards more frets, newer builders, and tend to be more afflicted with DAS. Effectively hoarding the used instrument market....

The "newer" college age players, are leaning towards fewer frets, and traditional "revival" instruments. Perhaps there will yet be a new resurgence in the "old ways" that were new to us so many years ago...

I foresee a HUGE tidal wave of used instruments hitting the market in the next 10 years or so, as the heirs of the DAS folks wonder what to do with closets full of "somedays"....that need to be cleaned out.

No time like today to get a youngster involved!

Hello Jonnyd,

 If you give a quick web search for D 50 Dulcimer [I use duck duck go..] You'll find several old listings on the "REVERB" sale pages, and a bit of history of these instruments. Yours has a spruce top, and what I would consider a very nicely figured black walnut back, sides and headstock. The fret board top "may" be of some other wood, as I can't really tell from the picture. If not walnut, could be mahogany, rosewood or?

 Sale prices looked to be in the area of 3-500 [ish], But again, this depends on finding the right buyer, case, shipping etc. I would suggest that you take some time and peruse this site and the multiple forums....perhaps the best "buyer" could be some one that has never discovered in over 30 years just how much joy a dulcimer and the "community" around it can bring......

Best wishes for your New Year....

Yet another reason to take up the Didgeridoo......Sure is pretty though!

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