Forum Activity for @john-petry

Gave it a quick look.....Sounds Amazing.....Group jam session without the guilt! We'll have to give it a go, [me n' the Mrs]

Thanks for the tip!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/448674886231259

This is the link and contact information for the Central Florida dulcimer Folks...They hold a fest North East of Orlando each year in the spring time. They have well over 700 members...I'm sure they can help direct you. A few of my recent customers were from "the Villages", but I looked and they would be quite a trip for you.   Keep turning over the rocks....you are sure to find a player or two nearby.....

Couldn't resist....sorry...

 longvsl.png - 271KB

But....but.....then it wouldn't be a dulcimer.....[or would it?]  ..ahh, the circle continues....

no need for replies...just kill'n time between mowing in the heat...

Thank you, Dan, for the bit of history and insight. "guarded secrets" reminds me of my old trapping days swapping recipes for beaver lure....

I know it's been discussed elsewhere...but I really do think that if little Johnny living in the mountains had access to baltic birch plywood, machine tuners and shellac....he'd a used 'em....

Have a Happy Independence Day!

john

Very nice Dan! haven't heard the "dance" in quite a few years. Thanks for the trip.

A few questions if I may...

1. the fret spacing "seems" to wander back and forth. Is this a mater of the angle the photos were taken? if not, is there a reason or rule to be followed? Looks "older, doesn't matter as long a the fret is under what it needs to be , etc?

2.is there a "dulcimore" rule to dictate what direction a carved heart points? Or is it strictly artisan choice?

3. If it is not a guarded secret....what is the formula used for the finish?

...asking for a friend

....

I managed to delete the entire thread while trying to delete a draft......

One of the reasons I still have a land line....

Because of the way your strings are anchored, straight, short line to the bridge.  They are not going to vary any, if at all under "normal" playing. the string tension will keep your VSL intact, and I wouldn't expect buzzing etc.

If you start pullin'/bendn' notes ...all bets are off.

If you are happy with the height of action, and the intonation, a few strokes with the edge of a nail file, steak knife, or most any other sharpish edged weapon will suffice. [at the point where the strings are resting/breaking over the bridge]. You are only looking to give the string a guide to keep it facing forward. No need for deep grooves. Worst case....you go too far, and end up finding another nut....

Best case...you now have a deeper relationship with your new friend...

Go slow and minimalist, it's a lot harder to put the material back if you take too much.

It's a bit hard to tell from the pictures... but it looks as if the strings rest on top/center, vs the flat forward edge....That is where to put your "guides".  Bringing the slots deeper than minimal will bring your strings closer or meeting the squared forward facing edge.

Or..... that 2nd cousin on the other side of the family, that used to play in a band can help you out......but he uses drywall screws.....they hold better.....

have a blessed day!

So moving on...."reasons NOT to put a slide on an Irish Whistle".........

Curmudgeonly:

like or characteristic of a bad-tempered, difficult, cantankerous person........

I don't think anyone here is implying anything other than opinions, and a bit of banter about a subject we all are familiar with, but individually have different thoughts on. 

  From my armchair of vast experience...I see folks who WILL NOT buy or even consider a dulcimer with wooden pegs, yet cry "for shame" if I install mechanical tuners for someone, Same holds for installing, or not, a 6.5 fret. Let alone a hand full more...

I like and welcome the discussions here amongst the "enlightened  ones". But I do see quite a need to put aside the semantics and minutia when talking to the "under 40's", or anyone else that is not a "dulcimer head"  [yet]. Most of whom are looking to play the dulcimer because they like the sweet sound [can you tell with your eyes closed how many frets it has?], or they think it's "cool", or just different. They have hearts yearning for acceptance into the dulcimer crowd, they have hair that's every color other than what God gave them, and self inflicted shrapnel hanging off their faces.... But I see quite a few who really "dig" the dulcimer. They don't know the history, they don't know who Joni Mitchell was [or care]. And how does a creek get crippled? They want to move forward and make their music and their own memories. 

I also see "some" groups that don't want new members..."we like our group" we really don't want them...

So i do understand the fears of the dulcimer fading into further obscurity. 

So by all means, lets dive into all the details here, where love and admiration abound...discussing pegs,frets,and the evils of laminate construction....

Let us also remember when we didn't know what miloxy,milodian,mmi....yea that stuff was... And invite a kid to play, no matter how many frets....it ain't doin' no good hang'n on the wall.

last question....If Stradivarius used Titebond glue, baltic birch plywood, and machine tuners [I think he would have if he had them] What would a violin look like today?

Perhaps "dulcimer" is a state of being........

....and Strum a lay lees

 "In fact, I know some people who do not find the dulcimer very sweet sounding."................

What a collection of wretched souls they must be.....You must endeavor to widen your circle...

Perhaps it is just the heat and humidity?

Then you'll need a nice case. Then you'll need something not so fancy for outside jams, or travel. Then there will be that one that just sounds so pretty...

Yup....all about the priorities....

Rule # 2     Play it some more....

If YOU like the way it looks, if YOU like the way it sounds, it means more than ANY makers mark or vintage. A dulcimer that you like is infinitely more likely to be played and not put in the closet.

Of course if this is a hour glass, you'll need to get a teardrop too. And perhaps one with/without the extra frets, and one for....

DAS is real.

er wait...I guess one of the images worked....go figure

Don't bother with the attachments...They didn't turn out...

I did a quick look through E-bay and Reverb sites & completed sales..Selling on the high end for 900 ish, low end 3-4.

hundreds.

I do say though, yours is the best looking one!

Right after I make my 2nd million in instrument sales......[I've given up on the first]......

I think the swelling member count is due to the free swag bags of merch being offered to new members. String sets, jars of "jam", and Turtle polishing cloths........

Probably easier to get out of the basement than the aircraft was.....

Nice build.....Will it fly?

You, my friend, are the inspiration! After your query, I did a search as well, finding that no one is making them any longer.....So being the struggling mercenary....I hope to make my fortune.....

Can't find the right words this morning......a few tears though. [in the good way]...Thank you.

Pettreemusic.com  has them in stock. Not the "hall" brand however. I did speak to Jenn over at Crystal flutes...they "may" in the future start making theirs again. The are more concentrated on the flutes at this time.

Correct....I can't claim credit for the "hack"....but it's nice, simple, and worth a heap more than the .15 cent investment.........

I've heard this before [from Skip perhaps...] but a dime just before the first fret, and a nickel on top of the 7th. Do the dime [nut] first, then attack the bridge. As you are probably aware, it's a lot easier taking off not enough than taking off too much.....

VERY nice! I really like the headstock neck area....impressive.

Thanks for sharing.

https://www.amazon.com/Imelod-Contact-Microphone-Ukulele-Mandolin/dp/B01M5IB4X7

This one is nice in that it has only a 10 inch lead so you don't have wire hanging all over. The lead is braid instead of plain plastic. "looks" like some of the more expensive ones.... That being said, I know of no manufacturer that uses a different piezo element in its' pick ups.The plastic housings may look different, but electronically and mechanically they ALL are the same. The price points are based on marketing, not what is inside. And at under 10 bucks it is sure worth the trying either way......

I would suggest perhaps using a small square of "alien tape" to affix to the dulcimers top, no worries then of double sided tape marring your good looks.....

Remember to "dab" the area...don't "wipe", In case there is residual pencil marks etc,you don't want to rub them off.

I've exposed some "made for xxx" or dedications and poems over the years....Enjoy the quest!

That is SO nice! I always wished some of these instruments could talk and tell the tales of the past....Yours comes pretty close!  A water wet q-tip brushed over the old scratches may bring out enough contrast to read them...It'll evaporate with no harm done...

If they ask you to "jam" ....It's not the strawberry kind......

 I wistfully think about some day having a flat-headed one......

And then there were three......That's how it starts.

If you are not in a dulcimer group, try and find one.   https://southernwisconsindulcimerclub.com/about/

This group is in Janesville, don't know if it's close to you.

Offer lessons? Offer to stumble along with another novice, learning together? The music may not sound great, but the fellowship is nice....

Just doing some quick "shop think'n"  A thin strip of wood or metal/brass/copper as a cover, mounted flush with the peg box might give it a nice "it was built that way" look? Would help stabilize the tuners in the slot, and cover any mounting screws?

 WIN_20250414_15_22_20_Pro.jpg - 52KB

Bizarre is using bunt pans.....Love yer stuff Nate!

Seriously tho....Looking at the peg head, is it perhaps probable that it started with simple pegs, and this was an attempt to put in machine tuners that "looked" original?  Robert, give a look and see if the peg hole continues on the other side.....

Josephus book of antiquities page 438 b ...under pre Viking design concepts.........

The long thin strips across the bottom helps keep the bottom from splitting, they also provide a thicker area of mounting for the top support posts. Effectively they tie the top and bottom together, transmitting the vibration of the top to the rest of the instrument. They also keep the top and bottom from flexing too much under the tension of the strings and the players pressing down on them. Not unlike the sound post in a violin or cello. Do you "need" all of them, or any of them......maybe. Can they be more of a delicate design instead of "barn beam" style? ? Perhaps you would be fine with just the one near the bridge end?

I know the positioning of the "one little" sound post in a violin/cello can make a HUGE difference in the tone...

As for your ancient viking style tuners......Please let us see how the battle goes......

Wow....That peg box looks like it came up from the ocean floor in an old viking ship....

I think [if it was my project] I'd start by cleaning out those broken pegs and other "stuff" in that box, cutting the strings away first. It almost looks as if the string tension was high enough to snap the pegs {rotten?} off without spitting the box? if it is still sound, clean and replace pegs with re claimed  violin pegs, self carved or for "function" , machine tuners...YOUR preference.

The rib crack[s] can be a little tricky, if you only want function, a thin strip of opposing/angled grained wood clamped internally should do the trick. The broken curve on the upper bout is the most challenging, as you need to get it back to the original curve, and reinforce it so it doesn't do it again. Either make a solid piece clamping form using the "good" side as a template, or I have seen using plaster of paris to make a mold of it, making a form perhaps 3-4 inches thick to give something to clamp to.

From what I can see, your top and bottom seem to be intact. Looks like all of it was put together with hide glue, hot water and a 3M pad should clean old glue residue fairly well. Once the old glue is cleaned off of the wood, MY preference is Titebond II, perhaps keeping these repairs from being needed in the next 60+ years...?

 Don't know what your "shop" has for tools and clamps and such. Shoot me a message and I can send you some thin stock for cleats and reinforcement....

Best of luck on your upcoming battle.....

Points to ponder.... If your instrument is 17.25 inches over all, I'm supposing some of that length is headstock and tail? So perhaps we're dealing with a VSL of 13-14 ish?  Most mandolins are about 14 inches VSL [They tune G3-D4-A5-E5] So perhaps a set of mando strings could be a starting point? And you get a few spares.... Your tuning can be the same notes as any other dulcimer, but you are going to be in a HIGHER OCTAVE generally.

With your bridge placed where it looks "right", string and tune 1 open string to pitch. Going to the 1st fret and so forth, your notes should progress in step, if not, re position bridge, re tune and try again. Once you are good to the first fret, move on down and fine adjust down the line. Once you're good with one string, go and string up the rest. With a VSL this short, there is not a lot of forgiveness.

If you are able, a picture or two of this "mini" would be appreciated.

Perhaps "coincidence"...But the last 2 out of three dulcimers I've sold have gone to folks looking to start learning to play., in part because of that little segment on late night TV...

 I always recommend FOTMD to my new customers, it is truly a gem of a resource for anyone with an interest!

Perhaps over simplification, but if the only variable is the strings, Longer and thicker gauges [and therefore higher tensions] will vibrate longer on any given length for the same tuning. As an example a .024 tuned to D3 on a 22 inch VSL [about 12.5 pounds of tension] will not vibrate as long as the same string used on a 36 inch VSL with the same tuning [39.2 pounds].

In the proverbial nutshell, longer dulcimer strings [VSL] usually mean a longer "sustain" of each note played. You can coax a bit more out of a shorter scale by going thicker on the strings , but only to a point. Finger comfort and tension on the instrument can get excessive.