W. Martin Dulcimer History
General mountain dulcimer or music discussions
Glad you liked it, Robin. One of my faves.
Glad you liked it, Robin. One of my faves.
If I get a Chromatic Dulcimer can I play it the same as a diatonic by just ignoring the extra frets?"
Hi ErthLing! Yes. And you could paint the chromatic frets with a magic marker to help distinguish them from the diatonic frets. That will wear off, but easily re-painted until your eyes and hands are thoroughly familiar with the difference between the diatonic frets and the chromatic sharps and flats.
Or you can have one built for you with features that help you switch between diatonic and chromatic play:
@Leo , @randy-adams , @robin-thompson , @badrepp p , thank you all. I don't have videos of my building process, and don't have the equipment for that. But there is one video of James Maguire, of Laliya, an Australian duo with his wife, Melissa. He is playing a Baby Grand with electronics and guitar synth output, the first dulcimer I ever made with advanced electronics. The composition is Weave.
@badrepp , forgot to tag you when I wrote that I'd be interested in how the Sunhearth is received at the guitar show!
I believe John does put feet on, and he would certainly do so by request. Freeing up the bottom of the dulcimer to vibrate acts as a natural natural amplifier, giving you a noticeably louder voice... I love Darlin' Corey!
Ken, John, very interesting to read. Up in the northeast, dulcimer builders do not feature feet, so I thought I was the only one doing so.
Here's an idea passed to me by Walt Martin of Sunhearth: place the feet offset in the major bout, so there is a space for the player's right leg to pass between them, instead of having to shift the instrument to avoid having one's thigh embossed.
So I place the treble-side foot between the bout and the waist, the bass-side foot between the bout and the tail, leaving plenty of room for the posture to shift. See "Baby Grand" detail .
Looking forward to more discussion of the Tennessee Music Box!
Ok I'll say it out loud. Dulcimers built by Dwain Wilder have far surpassed the level of craft and are in the realm of art.
Randy, I blush! I entered this craft standing on the shoulders of a giant, and feel I owe it to the community to demonstrate the craft's evolution at every opportunity.
Hi Badrepp, Leo, Robin, Ken, Dusty,
Those photos bring back such memories of my old mentor. He was like a second father for me.
And I never knew Walt encountered L. Alan Smith! Ken, thanks for pointing Leo to my website's Sunhearth page. Glad you still have your Sunhearth!
Badrepp, 12 12 14 22PBW will work fine with the Sunhearth. You might find that the higher tension of this set sharps the tone in frets above the 7 (first octave), as Walt didn't know about intonation and compensation. But Sunhearth action was so wonderfully low that intonation problems could only be perceived by those with very keen pitch recognition. If you have trouble with the 14 string sharping, try a 13.
I'd be interested to hear how the guitar players assessed that Sunhearth.
One other trick: use a business card to apply the glue:
And here is a tip for builders:
Saw this discussion a little late. Was looking around after posting a fret calculator I designed for my own dulcimer making. You can find it at https://bearmeadow.com/calculators/fret-calculator.html
I just posted an article on this forum discussing some of the problems it helps dulcimer makers solve.
The fret calculator on the Bear Meadow website is live again, thanks to Google! You can find it under the "Calculators" menu. I haven't gotten the others converted yet.
This calculator has a few features of special interest to mountain dulcimer builders:
1.You can change the scale length (of course! duh...)
2. You can get an idea of what kind of error (in cents) is being introduced by your cutting method. This is particularly helpful for those who hand-cut fret slots. To get that estimated error, enter a number for "Saw Error." A good beginning estimate is the width of your saw.
3. Positions of every "extra fret" is shown, and its distance from the previous diatonic fret. Very useful for knowing where extra frets go on your scale
4. In addition to "Nut to Fret" distance, "Fret-to-fret" distance is shown. This is helpful if you don't have an accurate ruler long enough to range all the way to the highest fret position. Though measuring fret-to-fret will accumulate errors, at least you have a better chance at getting it right if you have an accurate distance (these are shown in the closest 5 ten-thousandths of an inch, the upper limit of digital calipers on the market.
5. "Fret-to-Saddle" distance is also shown, giving you a way to double-check your fret-to-fret measurements at the high frets (but that depends on how accurately you can mark your nominal saddle position). CAUTION: Don't use this on existing fretboards, as it will not account for any intonation or compensation offset!
My next chore will be to add a choice of measurement units. Right now, the display and "rounding-off" is appropriate for English units (inches). I hope to get to proper display and rounding for milimeters, and a selectable user's choice for that.
Another thing I'd like to add is the math for the calculations of fret positions and error. Haven't figured out how to present math symbols on Google Drive yet!
Interesting idea! It would be nice to have a telescoping model, so you don't get stabbed!
Just a shout-out to Ron Ewing. He originated the mountain dulcimer capo, from which all others derive, to one extent or another. I have one of those brass ones that Dusty Turtle mentions, and love it for some technical reasons special to dulcimer builders. But I highly recommend Ron's work!
"...you can then sand it with fine sandpaper and get the shape pretty close without damaging the wood."
The danger with this technique is that sanding will give you an irregular surface. Fret tops need to be flat all the way across, so my procedure is to use a series of fine files to do all the cutting, and only then touch up with sanding.
For sanding, by the way, if you want better control than you can get with fingers, Skip's advice on the wood block is good. For finish polish in this sort of situation, though, I use foam-core nail files. They are available in grits from 100-600 at Sally Beauty Supply (they are usually around in shopping malls everywhere here in the Northeast, at least or go to their website). The 400/600 pink stick, with just a drop of mineral oil for "wet sanding" gives a great finish on a fret, with just enough "give" to form around the crown but not enough to cause lumps an bumps.
My experience has been that a dulcimer builder who knows the woods they are using, knows how to test their vibrating characteristics, can definitely and specifically influence the voice of the instrument.
In fact, after doing so for a number of years and keeping careful notes of choices and the resulting voice, a builder can forecast what the instrument will sound like, and thus custom shape the voice for the client.
This all depends, of course, on having enough stock of each wood used so that one has a range of choices. And that the woods used are adequate for good voice quality.
And that depends on what the client wants from the dulcimer. That's why so many different dulcimer builders are at work: there are so many differences in what a musician is looking for in a dulcimer. In an instrument like the violin, there is such a long history of what works and what doesn't, there is far less variation in what a violin should sound like.
Melissa, there are a few very good articles and guides on the web about how to choose the right dulcimer for you. I've written on on my website, Dulcimer Buyer's Guide . There is another (which I also wrote, though long ago) on the Sweet Music index, hosted by bearmeadow.com. You'll find that at Buying a Mountain Dulcimer . Jerry Rockwell also has good things to say in an article on choosing the right dulcimer on his website at Buying Guide .
Read all these carefully and you'll get a lot of insight into how to choose best. Hope that helps.
Hi Keltia,
Thanks! Do you mean that "at last, your website has achieved some beauty"? Or "at last, I've found a beautiful website among so much garbage on the web"? Or...? Inquiring minds want to know! ;o)
Keltia said:
Beautiful website at last. : )
It's been suggested that it would be helpful to give the url of the String Choice Tool. Here it is: http://www.bearmeadow.com/calculators/string-tension-workbook.htmlI just posted V4 of the String Choice Tool worksheet on my website. See the menu item Calculators>>String Choice Tool...