Hope not problems to hamper the playing of the dulciborn. But, yes, I'm sure it has several issues & my playing is one of them. It has such an interesting tone, but was not set up so I could play as I unpacked it. Like getting a Christmas present with no batteries for it. I will say, I have learn some about the instrument since I have had a few problems, where I may not have if it would have come set up correct to start.

m.

joe sanguinette said:

the suggestion that a good luthier should examine the instrument is a good one. you could have one or

more of a number of problems.

Thanks, sounds like I need to start saving old credit cards. The thing was, this bone was just made for me to replace the one that came with the instrument. Besides credit cards, maybe need to start a collection of bones.

How do you cut the credit card? sounds like an art project.

thanks,

m

Bobby Ratliff said:

As Dusty said, you can shim it to prevent making a new one. A simple solution is to try a piece of credit card stock underneath the saddle or nut, whichever was lowered for you. It may be a little high at first, but it will compress over time. If it ain't high enough, it may need two. You should consider a shim a temporary fix, and get a new nut or saddle made. However, I have played my instruments with papers shims for several months or a couple years before finally breaking down and making a new nut or saddle the correct height.

Thanks Dusty, I don't have a luthier here, I took it to a guitar shop & repair. They lowered the action so when i went back today we did put a little shim underneath the pick up, than the pick up back in than the bone. I think we are ok for now and the problem of the low action having a problem was because the fretwork or fretboard did raise some in the middle. Otherwise the height would have been great. Too bad the repair person didn't notice this before he sanded just a bit more off the bone. I was not wanting to address so many issues on a new dulcimer (dulciborn) so the shim was a good fix. Would be nice if we didn't need to adjust so many things & just working on learning to play our instruments.

As always, thanks,

m

Dusty Turtle said:

Marg, this question is probably best asked in the Builders Group, but as we wait for the experts to chime in, my first question would be who adjusted the dulcimer in the past? Does it have a zero fret? Remember that the action can be adjusted at either end of the string, and that the lower the action the more accurate and even the fretwork has to be. Unfortunately, one reason for very high action, I think, is that some luthiers are simply too lazy to be precise with their frets.

It is possible to raise the bridge (or more accurately the saddle) slightly by adding a little shim underneath it, so if the action just has to be raised a little bit, that might be an option. I had that done to a baritone dulcimer I used to own and the slight buzz that had so bothered me went away. But the height of the nut might also need adjusting, so have a luthier examine the whole instrument.

I took a dulcimer to a good luthier recently. He made a few measurements and was able to tell me that the nut was the right height but the bridge was a little low. He made a new bone bridge in less than an hour while I waited at a nearby cafe. A good luthier should not merely do what you request (lower or raise the action) but examine the instrument and tell you how it ought to be set up given your preferences.

How hard is it to find the right action. My new dulcimer came to me, way to high. It has been adjusted but after several tries it is now too low with trang trang more than a buzz.

How hard is it to adjust it again, raising it a bit without making a new bone?

Hi,

I just saw your post & live in N. Houston area. I keep trying to get to the NHCG Jam's but the only time I made it there, they were having a reunion party. The Jam was yes, very fast. It was great listening to all the different instruments but no way was I ready to try & do anything but open strum. There is a group that meets in Copperfield on Tuesday evenings, if that would work for you. I practice up in the Woodlands, we just finished our Christmas performances, so are not meeting till Janurary.

I wish you luck with the dulcimer

Are we to practice what we see?

When a note has a bar it goes out in? So 3 notes would be out in out? and 4 out in out in?

were we to click on the photo or just use it as a guide?

Thanks Carrie, everyone is very helpful but sometimes it still doesn't make any sense - yet.

And this pix by Doug Berch

Everyone at one point in time or another just has the strum get 'em down. These are just a couple of aids that may help you "whip" that strum into shape!

I am just reading about the fire and I am very sorry for all the pain this has caused you and your family. I like the way Helen said "sooth your woundedsoul" that is how I feel about playing the dulcimer and all I do is make a sweet noise so far.

It is very hard to go through many many years of saved memories, some maybe lost now but you did live them and are still here to remember them. I remember the feeling of going through and throwing away everything you have but when I did it, so was most of new orleans (after katrina) so as bad as it was, you didn't feel alone. I am sorry your neighborhood could not be by your side but I am so impress that your FOTMD fellow members are true friends and at your side.

Spring is coming and new beginnings, I hope you and all your love ones are able to look forward to all the next's to come and soon will be able to smile again.

Fog or no Fog, sounds like you have figure somethings out and crossed a few bridges. Nice going.

Looking close up at the hourglass, it looks to have slits in the fretboard end for several strings . Could you put 5 or 6 strings on this dulcimer?

Rob N Lackey said:

The hourglass one looks really nice. Not a bad price but shipping is a touch high. I think the teardrop is way too high, because, I think, and I'm not sure, it's what they call their beginner model, which wasn't that expensive new (If I remember correctly.)

Sounds like the mud from the flood was all around and got into their basement. Maybe the closing is do to the clean up.

It does say till further notice, so maybe they will - with some time they be able to continue with their life long passion.

Rob N Lackey said:

Well, that's a shame. It's hard to imagine such an established company as they had having to close.

I just found Cripple Creek's FB page, and saw this maybe due to the flood they had:

Ken Hulme said:

Do you have any idea how old the dulcimer is? What style? Was it a kit built, or made by Cripple Creek? If it has a pattern of aspen leaf soundholes it could be one of their higher grade models.

Generally speaking Cripple Creek dulcimers have been of very good quality. Bud & Donna Ford have built dulcimers for over 40 years. I've built a number of their kits and played several of their shop-built dulcimer and been very happy.

I understand that lately - say the last 8 months or so, something has fallen off in their QC though -- we've had a couple negative reports.

I don't know anything about these dulcimers but I thought it would help to see a cost on the 2 below for comparison:

NICE Vintage Cripple Creek Appalachian Mountain Dulcimer Manitou Springs, CO $225.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NICE-Vintage-Cripple-Creek-Appalachian-Mountain-Dulcimer-Manitou-Springs-CO-/271394659278#vi-content

Cripple Creek mountain dulcimer #81471 $159.

http://compare.ebay.com/like/321273168985

Ken Hulme said:

Do you have any idea how old the dulcimer is? What style? Was it a kit built, or made by Cripple Creek? If it has a pattern of aspen leaf soundholes it could be one of their higher grade models.

Generally speaking Cripple Creek dulcimers have been of very good quality. Bud & Donna Ford have built dulcimers for over 40 years. I've built a number of their kits and played several of their shop-built dulcimer and been very happy.

I understand that lately - say the last 8 months or so, something has fallen off in their QC though -- we've had a couple negative reports.

Just reading this post & did seeCripple Creek was able to reach theirgoal on the fundraiser to save their machinery and continue to get some Dulcimers out - pay the IRS off!!!! Than much clean up - images of the flood looked really bad.

Does anyone know what is the latest, do they still have a store or are they just on line now?

Interesting - less string tension making it easier to depress the strings - Does that mean easier to depress I could have clearer tones on the higher frets? If I was in G and put a capo on the 4th fret, would the strings still be easy to depress or would it start getting more tension - again making the higher frets harder for a clear tone? Hmmmm, may need to try G or C - something lower than D, but than most all my tabs are in D and the group I play with are all in D.

So many different ways of setting up an instrument, so it's right for one's own personal preference - all very interesting.

Sam,

What a history of setting up your dulciborn and welcome to FOMD. I'm glad you found this discussion, everyone seems to love their dulciborn but a few of us have or had some issues.Christine, you will notice likes theheavier gauge strings also. Both she and Frank have some great videos playing the dulciborn and many others on this site have great videos with their dulcimers - others like me are new to playing and find so many members always ready to help.

I never would think of inserting a nail under the strings but I love that you can tune to G and with the capo able to catch most all other tunings. Makes it almost seem like the best of all tunings except, I have trouble making a clear tone on the hight frets on the dulciborn - my action is still too high. Maybe I could try this on my dulcimer, which is really easy to play with a nice low action.

Good luck with GT, I wish they could straighten out the problems they have had with the dulciborn. It sounds like you know a good bit about fretboards and adjustments. I, on the other hand am learning as I go but with help picking up some good info.

Again welcome to the site, I hope you enjoy it.

Christine

Going to a heavier string for the bass, does it make it harder or easier to play or is it just the tone that changes?

I changed to 12's today, that and filing the 3rd fret down just a hair I think made a difference on my twang or vibration. I got to play another dulciborn yesterday and it made the same twang as minewhen strummed up the fret board. For these two dulciborns either I need to remember to strum more toward the strum hollow or not so hard.

Thank you both Christine and Frank. I wouldn't think there was hardy any difference between an 11 & a 12 string. Is it just a bit heavier or mellow? What makes you both put 12's on the dulciborn? Just like 12's better?

Christine Shoemaker said:

I use the .12's too Marg. Also, .18 plain for the middle and .28 wound for the bass. I just changed the bass today to a .29 Acoustic Silk Bronze by GHS strings. (That one doesn't come in a 28.) So far, I think I like it. It seems to have a warmer tone.

marg said:

I will try the .12's and do hope Wayne can straighten out the problems. To have so many issues with the latest shipment shows they have not made any headway.

thanks as always for your suggestions, help and ideas

Interesting, had not thought of changing the others. I have a bit of a tang from vibration when I strum fast or up the fret board- I was hoping the 12's could help with this. Would be nice to be changing strings just to try different tones. Doesn't the dulciborn make a great sound and I love the sound that comes when we slide, you have some great ones in your latest video, Winter's Delete Key.

thanks,

Christine Shoemaker said:

I use the .12's too Marg. Also, .18 plain for the middle and .28 wound for the bass. I just changed the bass today to a .29 Acoustic Silk Bronze by GHS strings. (That one doesn't come in a 28.) So far, I think I like it. It seems to have a warmer tone.

marg said:

I will try the .12's and do hope Wayne can straighten out the problems. To have so many issues with the latest shipment shows they have not made any headway.

thanks as always for your suggestions, help and ideas

Someone from the dulcimer group in Houston went to Gold Tone for a visit. Wayne wasn't in town but one of the tech's showed him a few dulciborns and out of 6 half were good & half were a mess. I guess we got the wrong half.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

All the instruments were from this latest shipment and issues from 3 years ago still persist. Waynes' last comments were suggesting he's looking for another MFGR. May check back in a year or two.

I will try the .12's and do hope Wayne can straighten out the problems. To have so many issues with the latest shipment shows they have not made any headway.

thanks as always for your suggestions, help and ideas

Frank,

If the string size for the dulciborn for DADD - .011, .011, .016, .024w have you ever thought of trying .012's instead of .011? As you know I was having trouble setting up my dulciborn and yes I do have a bit of vibration more so when I strum fast or up the fret board- I was wondering if the strings could make a difference with the vibration? Having .011's on it, I'm sure is what gives it the nice high tones alone with the base tones but thinking it may be worth a try to put on .012's.

Any ideas or have you tried changing the string size.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmmm, I'm not sure what the issue is now. I can strum and do from the nut all the up to the 7th fret with no unwanted change in sound. You can try shimming up the saddle or even just a piece of paper under the offending strings. Also if your fretting on some of the upper frets, say from 3 fret up and still get the sound you describe, then I wouldn't blame too low of an action. If you get the "tangs" strumming open or the first 1 or 2 frets, then you probably have too low strings.. Also the more you strum up the fret board, the more vibration your causing, which may make the strings contact the frets. As your learning, setting up an instrument is an art.....

Sharon,So glad you had a good evening and the dulciborn really had the crowd excited.

If the string size for the dulciborn forDADD - .011, .011, .016, .024w have you ever thought of trying .012's instead of .011? I have been having trouble setting up the action on mine and I have a bit ofvibration - I was wondering if the strings could make a difference with the vibration? Having .011's on it I'm sure is what gives it the nice high tones alone with the base tones but thinking it may be worth a try. Any ideas or have you tried changing the string size.

So nice Christine Shoemaker has come to FOYMD and posted some of her videos, there's great members here and all interested in - all things dulcimer. In just a few days she has gotten more views than posting elsewhere and many comments alone with, quite a few WOW'S

Joy W. said:

Marg, you're right about the collection of dulciborn videos available on the YouTube link that you posted. The musician, Christine Shoemaker, is also a member of FOTMD, but I don't think she has been active on this website in a while. She and I have worked on some dulciborn duets together and, last summer, recorded some of our efforts at a practice session. Here are two of my favorites:

Southwind - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaRKcaKZpkA

John Stinson's #2 -

On her YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS9PAgUI8AfFoxZFZ_XsTcQ Christine also posted some really beautiful pieces that she plays on a McSpadden 6-string baritone.

So nice Christine Shoemaker has come to FOYMD and posted some of her videos, there's great members here and all interested in - all things dulcimer. In just a few days she has gotten more views than posting elsewhere and many comments alone with, quite a few WOW'S

Joy W. said:

Marg, you're right about the collection of dulciborn videos available on the YouTube link that you posted. The musician, Christine Shoemaker, is also a member of FOTMD, but I don't think she has been active on this website in a while. She and I have worked on some dulciborn duets together and, last summer, recorded some of our efforts at a practice session. Here are two of my favorites:

Southwind - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaRKcaKZpkA

John Stinson's #2 -

On her YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS9PAgUI8AfFoxZFZ_XsTcQ Christine also posted some really beautiful pieces that she plays on a McSpadden 6-string baritone.

Well, I'm not posting any videos either but I do enjoy listening to the ones I can fine:

Frank Ledgerwood is a member and has several videos

http://dulciborn.com/videos.html

and

"I Wonder as I Wander" A song that came out of Murphy, N. Carolina in 1933. Sung by a young Annie Morgan at a revival meeting. John Jacob Niles happened to be there and paid $.25 each time for 8 times for her to sing it for him, so he could write melody and the 3 lines. He went on to add two more versus and publish it in 1934.

there are the ones Joy W. post above and Christine Shoemaker has several

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=Christine+Shoemaker%2C+dulciborn+videos

I do enjoy my dulciborn but wish the action was a bit lower so it would be easier to play the higher notes. I have had a lot of trouble trying to set it up so it would be playable.

I hope you enjoy this site, there's lots on it and many very helpful members.

I see you are new to FOTMD site, Welcome and hope to see some videos soon of you playing your dulciborm.

alan kolman said:

i've been playing the dulciborn for a year and a half. it's a 'john hawk' model that i bought from john, and it has 1.5,6.5,8.5 and 13.5 frets. it sounds great, is easy to play, and i play it every day. however, after 6 months the fretboard warped badly (it's an early, scalloped model). gold tone repaired it at no cost other than shipping, tho i will say their customer support needs improvement big time. no problems at all since then.

i love my dulciborn, but it's kinda like an old british sportscar - beautiful to look at, fun to play with, but likely to spend time in the repair shop.

First glad you love your dulciborn, as I do mine but still having trouble setting the action right to make it easy to play. It gets too high up on the higher frets to where I can't make a clear sound in pressing them. But, I did get all tangs & buzzes fixed by some sanding & filing. The new dulciborns don't have the early, scalloped model and I hope the fretboard warping has been taken care of. It's too bad the early, scalloped model had this problem and now is gone because it was such a nice design. Did having the scallop fretboard help with the sound? Sorry you had problems, I hope it wont be spending time in the repair shop but in your hands making great sounds.
alan kolman said:

i've been playing the dulciborn for a year and a half. it's a 'john hawk' model that i bought from john, and it has 1.5,6.5,8.5 and 13.5 frets. it sounds great, is easy to play, and i play it every day. however, after 6 months the fretboard warped badly (it's an early, scalloped model). gold tone repaired it at no cost other than shipping, tho i will say their customer support needs improvement big time. no problems at all since then.

i love my dulciborn, but it's kinda like an old british sportscar - beautiful to look at, fun to play with, but likely to spend time in the repair shop.

Thank you for sending the links, Southwind was beautiful and J. Stinson's #2 looked like loads of fun.

Did you have any trouble getting your dulciborn set up? I thought I had mine playing very easy with a lot action until I felt I has hitting frets, weather from too low or just vibration of the strings - not sure so ended up raising it again. Not as high as when I got it but not easy to play higher up. I can't seem to get a clear note since it's hard to press. I still like the dulciborn and hope maybe my fingers will either get stronger or someone can find the right spot for the action, not so high but not so low I buzz.
Thanks again for sending your practice sessions, great fun watching.
Joy W. said:

Marg, you're right about the collection of dulciborn videos available on the YouTube link that you posted. The musician, Christine Shoemaker, is also a member of FOTMD, but I don't think she has been active on this website in a while. She and I have worked on some dulciborn duets together and, last summer, recorded some of our efforts at a practice session. Here are two of my favorites:

Southwind - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WaRKcaKZpkA

John Stinson's #2 -

On her YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCS9PAgUI8AfFoxZFZ_XsTcQ Christine also posted some really beautiful pieces that she plays on a McSpadden 6-string baritone.

marg said:

Frank, some dulciborn videos have just been posted. thought you may like to check them out:

they're good

marg.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmmm,

Thanks,

Have a good Thanksgiving week

m.

Skip said:

Check the warranty and call the company. Once you know what they will do should give some guidance as to what to do next.

(the more you strum up the fret board, the more vibration your causing, which may make the strings contact the frets.)

Someone who has helped me in the beginning & knows Goldtone said: The dulciborn "is a guitar based, rather than a dulci based instrument. Guitars and other similar instruments have a clear picking area between the bridge saddle and the end of the fingerboard, more twangy toward the bridge. The dulciborne is much larger, more resonant , and louder than standard dulcies. Therefore, buzzes and rattles will always be more pronounced."

Could this be the case, or as the guitar center said, uneven frets?

Is this as good as they get or was I sent out one that just had a bad set up from the start & no matter what I try - doesn't seem to work?

I just don't know which way I should go with it, play as is & try not to be forceful & don't play up the fret board or contact Goldtone - and what would they do? (Would they send another, would they pay to have repair work done, would they just say - send it back?) I had thought it was a high action problem, than it was a pick up problem, now I'm wondering if it's uneven frets. How many bugs am I to work out of it before I can just start playing it?

Sorry, all very confusing & just not sure on best course of action - except maybe, become a builder quick quick.

m.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmmm, I'm not sure what the issue is now. I can strum and do from the nut all the up to the 7th fret with no unwanted change in sound. You can try shimming up the saddle or even just a piece of paper under the offending strings. Also if your fretting on some of the upper frets, say from 3 fret up and still get the sound you describe, then I wouldn't blame too low of an action. If you get the "tangs" strumming open or the first 1 or 2 frets, then you probably have too low strings.. Also the more you strum up the fret board, the more vibration your causing, which may make the strings contact the frets. As your learning, setting up an instrument is an art.....

I did the dime, nickel & they lifted the strings & were very tight, so now I'm thinking the action is too low so back I go to see about adjusting that.

Not getting the sound open but starting off with first fret on up. Will keep you posted & yes, it's an art - or many years of learning.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmmm, I'm not sure what the issue is now. I can strum and do from the nut all the up to the 7th fret with no unwanted change in sound. You can try shimming up the saddle or even just a piece of paper under the offending strings. Also if your fretting on some of the upper frets, say from 3 fret up and still get the sound you describe, then I wouldn't blame too low of an action. If you get the "tangs" strumming open or the first 1 or 2 frets, then you probably have too low strings.. Also the more you strum up the fret board, the more vibration your causing, which may make the strings contact the frets. As your learning, setting up an instrument is an art.....

Watching your videos, I see you strum close to the strum hollow or right in front of it. When I am in that area I don't get the tangs but if I was to strum up the fretboard, I start getting lots of tangs. I took the string out of the slot cut into the bone & it didn't seem to make any difference. Ny other dulcimer I can play up the fret board with no problem.

Is this a problem with the dulciborn or high frets that only cause an issue when I play close to them?

Can putting a slim under the nut take care of this without raising the action much more - highup the fret board?

marg said:

Interesting, had not thought of a problem with a slot cut into the bone. The 2 melody strings are not even down the fret board,so a little notch was place in the bone to hold in place. I don't hear a tang or chimey sound if I hit each note on it's own but when I do fast sliding the strings do ring out, how much of this is a chimey/tang & how much is the tone of the dulciborn?

How did you address your string problem to make them even & not ring out?

Should I take the strings out of the grove (both or one) in the nut & just place next to it? That also would raise it just a bit. Strange, since I have gotten the dulciborn I have been trying to lower it, now I'm raising it a bit.

Frank, you have been very helpful in all my questions. I still like the dulciborn very much, just wish I was done trying to get it set up so I could just enjoy it.

PS: the pick-up that was sent out was a little different than the one that was in it to start. The new one seem to be a bit larger & fit the slot better, had numbers on it where the older one was smaller & no markings on it.

By the time I am done with getting it set up, I should know a lot about working on the dulciborn.

Thank you, I look forward to your answers since you do know a lot about the dulciborns.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmm, the term tang? If your term was buzz, then by all means, it maybe too low or a fret may be to high(or higher than the others. If you mean a bell like or chimey sound, it's more than likely an issue with string slot cut into nut or saddle. If you fret a string and still get unwanted tang(?) than it's going to be in the saddle.

Interesting, had not thought of a problem with a slot cut into the bone. The 2 melody strings are not even down the fret board,so a little notch was place in the bone to hold in place. I don't hear a tang or chimey sound if I hit each note on it's own but when I do fast sliding the strings do ring out, how much of this is a chimey/tang & how much is the tone of the dulciborn?

How did you address your string problem to make them even & not ring out?

Should I take the strings out of the grove (both or one) in the nut & just place next to it? That also would raise it just a bit. Strange, since I have gotten the dulciborn I have been trying to lower it, now I'm raising it a bit.

Frank, you have been very helpful in all my questions. I still like the dulciborn very much, just wish I was done trying to get it set up so I could just enjoy it.

PS: the pick-up that was sent out was a little different than the one that was in it to start. The new one seem to be a bit larger & fit the slot better, had numbers on it where the older one was smaller & no markings on it.

By the time I am done with getting it set up, I should know a lot about working on the dulciborn.

Thank you, I look forward to your answers since you do know a lot about the dulciborns.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

Hhmm, the term tang? If your term was buzz, then by all means, it maybe too low or a fret may be to high(or higher than the others. If you mean a bell like or chimey sound, it's more than likely an issue with string slot cut into nut or saddle. If you fret a string and still get unwanted tang(?) than it's going to be in the saddle.

New pick-up came & has been installed. Working well, problem with the older one, wire was not connected or was loose & becamedisconnected. now still dealing with the Action, it was lowered but a hair too low now, getting a tang. I hope it can be fixed without needing a new bone.

See photo:

thanks again for all of your in-put

m.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

At least your close to getting the bugs out. I have mine set up the way I like it. Biggest dilemma, is the ovalized/oversized holes for the string pins on the bridge and a small dent on side. Poor QC. I doubt at this point if I'm going to continue to promote these. Certainly can't have them dropped shipped and between time to set up/repair/deal with issues and cost increase, it's not worth the effort. I do like the sound and perform regularly with it. Thanks for your kind words about the vids. I do need to throw a few more up. If your interested, I do have a CD and they make great stocking stuffers....

Well, you got yours set up a lot faster than I did. I still have to wait for the pick up to come before I can get that in, than fingers cross - all will work & I will also be set up. The way it should have come, since I did requested a low action several times & I was told it would be low & easy to play. (The difference of the action could be the difference of the pick up - maybe they measure before the pick up than when that goes in, it's that much higher.)

I will say because of needing to address my problems, I have learned so much more about dulcimers than I knew before. You & a few of the other members have been so helpful in offering your information. Before, I didn't know about sanding the bone or how to take out a pick up or even much about a string pin. I would say GoldTone & I could call it even if after learning all of this, I was set up within 2 days, not a month.

I do hope you do continue - if not in promoting the dulciborn at lease in playing them. Yes, they do need to do a better set up otherwise they will loose any following they have with them - and they are so very different in appearance and tone. I do wish them all the best but they need to fine tune their set ups.

m.

Frank Ledgerwood said:

At least your close to getting the bugs out. I have mine set up the way I like it. Biggest dilemma, is the ovalized/oversized holes for the string pins on the bridge and a small dent on side. Poor QC.

(either works or it doesn't -a few replaced at GT )

I talked to Nathan at GT & he led me though a few checks, Yes, they work or they don't & this one isn't so they are going to send out a new pick up. I have no idea if it worked before lowering the action since I was concerned on trying to get the strings low enough to be able to play- I didn't check the pick up until afterward it was playable.

It sure would have been nice to have received the dulciborn with a lower action & pick up working - all good right out of the box. There is such a hugh difference from the height of the action when it came & now - and as you know the tone is beautiful. I love listening to your videos you have on dulciborn.com

How are you making out with yours? I'm sure you can get your action fixed a lot quicker & better than me. Sorry I don't live closer, I may have knocked on your door for some help.

Looking forward to a new video soon with this last one you received.

Thanks for all your replies with this discussion

If you sand down the bone to lower the action, have you ever run into a problem of the pick up not working? If the bone tilts a bit should the sanded end be on some sort of slant to be flat on the pickup since the bone is tilting? I have started a new discussion with the dulcimer making group - Transducer Pickup under saddle. They have given lots of good info.

marg said:

Frank,

Sorry yours wasn't as nice as the one you played. Sounds like your action is a lot like mine was. The bone has been sanded 1/16"plus a bit more than 1/32"and a bit off the sides. It fits better in the bridge - no temp with wood shim now but still no pick up. Not sure what is going on there but the action is much better, low & no buzz - the way it should have come. We did put a notch on the bone for the melody strings, they were not equal distance from nut to bridge but ended quite far apart at bridge.

On the pick up, I'm lost as to why I'm not getting anything. I will play it for a few days than e-mail Wayne an up-date.

I really wish they can get their dulciborns problems corrected, they are such an interesting instrument - the discussions should be about the tone & volume, not the problems.

Frank,

Sorry yours wasn't as nice as the one you played. Sounds like your action is a lot like mine was. The bone has been sanded 1/16"plus a bit more than 1/32"and a bit off the sides. It fits better in the bridge - no temp with wood shim now but still no pick up. Not sure what is going on there but the action is much better, low & no buzz - the way it should have come. We did put a notch on the bone for the melody strings, they were not equal distance from nut to bridge but ended quite far apart at bridge.

On the pick up, I'm lost as to why I'm not getting anything. I will play it for a few days than e-mail Wayne an up-date.

I really wish they can get their dulciborns problems corrected, they are such an interesting instrument - the discussions should be about the tone & volume, not the problems.