I recently replaced friction tuners on a Bill Davis 5 string dulcimer, I had to put some bushings in as the Perfection Plantary Tuners were to small, So glad I did, it is so easy to tune and holds tuning well.
Dwain,
I moved the nut toward the scroll .12" , set the location of the 6 1/2 fret by using the corresponding note on the middle string. The strings are 0.12, 0.12, 0.14, 0.12, and 0.24. Even though the measured locations are not exactly according to the fret calculator, it notes true and checks in tune with harmonics. It is a very easy playing instrument with a bold sound. I do think I will change the middle string to a .016 size, it has a slight twang . That may be caused by slot in the nut or bridge, will check that first.
All I have been able to find out about Davis dulcimers is what seems to be common info on the internet and a little info from a man in London who has at least a few of Bill's dulcimers.
Thanks again for your thoughts and directions. I am a relative newbie to dulcimers, I got my first one about 10 years ago after I retired the second time. I didn't build my first one until I turned 74, am now 81 and have built 131.
Bill R
Dwain
I think you are spot on with your guess. I need to get the bridge adjusted a little lower but changing that to the back side puts it very close to Equal temperment. I could not see the obvious, I was getting pretty frustrated! Thank you
Bill R
I recently acquired what I believe is an all walnut Davis kit dulcimer. 5 strings, peg tuners, 14 -1/16 inch from nut to 7th fret. floating bridge, no tag, name date etc. It was put together very well, good joints and finish . I wish to add a 6 1/2 fret. My problem can be shown with the comparison chart I have attached showing calculated locations for JI, EqI , measured with a tape then with a 24" digital caliper. I have run the calculations from 27 to 28 1/2 " and nothing matches, but when tuned to DAd, it is good on the electronic strobe tuner and sounds ok with my other dulcimers. I can locate the 6 1/2 fret by ear but am wondering how these frets can be vary so much yet still be in tune with equal method calculations. Any thoughts or comments?
I have my 5 string Perfection pegs to replace original wooden pegs now. Only minor bushing required.
Now it is set for a double Melody string and equal spacing on the other 3. I found the "Extended range" set up. Are there any others commonly used?
if so, what string gauges? It's a 28 1/4 " VSL, older instrument
I tried the magnetic pickup route several years ago. The only drawback was the dulcimer sounded more like a guitar than a dulcimer since it only response to the vibrating string and loses a lot of the traditional sound of a dulcimer
Dan,
Any idea of when Bill Davis stopped selling his kit dulcimers?
This one was assembled by a careful woodworker. Joints are all good and finish is even. I have not restrung it yet but checked the sound. It does have a big sound! Also, what tuning is normal for the 5 string 4 course setup?
Thanks
Bill R
Dan an John ,
Here are some photos
Dan and John, I found photos of the Bill Davis dulcimer, it fits it to a "t". I can see the similarities in the Clemmer peg head and the Davis peg head
Thanks
Did Mike Clemmer make an hourglass instrument with wooden pegs and a 5 string (double melody and equi spaced as 4 string? I just had one given to me, no tag or serial# 27.5 or 28" vsl, all walnut, no 6 1/2 or 13 1/2 frets. scroll has wheat heads engraved on the sides. It is the violin style, nice woodwork and finish
Thanks to all who responded. I finally got things right. I was missing the .15" allowance for compensation. When I
took that into consideration and ran it on a fret calculator, I ended up with a 25.5" VSL, so from the nut to octave is 12.75" but octave to bridge is + or - 12.9"
Bill R
There are 18 Dulcimer frets, no real marks showing the locations. I sketched it out in CAD and it appears to be 25 3/8 " VSL . When set up I tuned it to C, checked at first Octave, OK Checked second Octave ,Very close but when I note it at the first fret, it is Sharp. The original bridge and nuts were included, they were 1/4 to 3/8 wide and deeply notched, looks like they were an after an alteration
Situation, old hand made courting dulcimer with no bridge, bridge reference or nuts. What is the most accurate way to determine VSL?
Thanks, Bill R
Our group in Central Indiana was back to near normal before the latest virus version hit. At first we were playing outside under an entry way but then later was given the OK to play inside as long as we had temperature checked and filled out a questionnaire and wore our masks. Now with the increase in covid again we are back outside when weather permits. Of late we have had some high air temperatures so its a day by day situation. We are scheduled for two sessions in September, probably outside.
From what I have experienced the total distance could be 1/8 to 3/16 longer than what it computes to be. Set it where recommended , tune it then check the notes at the octave. You may have to move the bridge one way or the other to get it right, then go back and check the original open tuning to see if it is right. You may have to angle the bridge slightly to get the true notes at the octave.
Another thought on the possum board, Mother possums carry their young on their back as the board carries the dulcimer
Hi Ken,
I caught the Prime mark on the string Calculator, TY for the info
What gage strings are used for a bass dulcimer tuned DAD?
I have seen many sound hole designs on here and was wondering what you use for reinforcement under and around those intricate designs.
I had my first covid shot two weeks ago. I was impressed by the professionalism of the volunteers and how organized they were! No after effects other than a VERY small tender spot for 3 or 4 hours. I go back Mar 4th. It is only about 5 miles from the house. I got a Focusrite recording interface so will try some recording tomorrow since they probably will not have the roads clear. It will be a good day for that
Covid has had us inside for way to long! Heavy snow now will require firing up the snow blower so at least I have reason to go outside. Not so bad though electric start and heated handle grips.
Just a reminder that better times are coming, just be patient.
I have completed a "what if" all poplar hourglass instrument, 26.5 VSL and the fretboard "floats" it is only in contact with the top at the peghead and tail block, otherwise about 3/16" clearance full length. The bridge rests directly on the top with no contact with fretboard. Right now the bridge feet each have about 1/2" x 5/8" bearing on the top. A previous trial build has fretboard attached but stops short of the tail block. It is walnut with butternut top. The two builds have very similar volume and tone. I was thinking of decreasing the footprint of the bridge on the top to see if it changes anything. Both instruments have bracing under the bridge area. I am going to go to a size heavier strings also on the poplar instrument. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?
'
Has anyone made a comparison of hollowed out fretboards compared to solid ones as far as warping is concerned? ? I know solids are quieter and it seems the hollow fretboard would be less prone to warpage than the solid one. Also the wood grain , and flat sawed or quarter sawn has a lot of influence on warping.
Thank you all for the response on floating fretboard. I am going to attempt one
Ken,
I realize the fretboard is glued to top somewhere, I was thinking along the lines of gluing the fretboard only at the head and tail blocks and making the top a braced single unit with just a fraction of clearance between it and the fretboard and setting the bridge on the top instead of on the fretboard
I know there are builders who "float" their fretboards. I am sure there are discussions on methods and pros and cons for this. Have any builders made a comparison of floating versus glued to top? Thanks
Bill R
Thanks Dan, the soak and heat process was in my mind. Did you notice any advantages to the curved back other than looks?
I have noticed several builders are making their dulcimers with a curved back. Of course bracing would be needed but when you speak of the curve, how much deflection are you working toward? I can see where the curve should reflect a little more sound to the top and if the top were isolated from the fretboard you might get a little more volume.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
Bill R
I used stewmacs nut and bridge files to cut the grooves, and yes it is only on the open string note.
Thanks for the suggestion, I will give it a try
I have built several dulcimers from 16" to 30" VSL. The latest one has 30" VSL, Lower bout is 8 1/2", upper bout is 7" and is 2 " thick. Sides and back are walnut and top is ambrosia maple.
I started out with 12,12,16,24 strings and the melody and bass sounded fine, smooth and mellow, but the middle string has an odd twang . I used Struthers string gage and it recommended 9,9,12 and 18. after switching, I used 10,10,12,20. the middle string still has that strange twang. My instruments all have zero fret but could the problem still be in the nut that keeps the strings in position? the bridge was originally ebony but I changed that to bone . Still get that off sound. Action is very low as I dish the fretboard slightly midway to allow a lower bridge, could it be too low? No buzzing
I appreciate any thoughts
Bill Robison
Thanks for the suggestions, We had a practice Tuesday with 14 players and the four guitars were side by side, with the 10 dulcimer players in a tight circle inside. Even with the new songs we tried, it worked very well
Bill R
I belong to 3 central Indiana dulcimer groups and we often play together at local events.
The problem arises when we have more than 6 or 8 players. Some players are advanced others relative beginners.
Usually we have at least 1 or 2 guitar players but still have problems with group sync in the larger group. Do you pick some one to lead and everyone follow them? One side of the group will end up a note or two behind or ahead of the other side . We don't use electronics so it is difficult, especially outside to keep everyone together. Other that very frequent practice, does anyone have suggestions? We play together weekly with portions of each group involved
Bill Robison
I just got a Deering Goodtime 5 string banjo, how do I tune or capo to play along with dulcimers in DAD?
It has spikes for capo on 5th string.
Any help would be appreciated
I have built 4 "banjammers" or as I call mine, banjo-dulcimer. A practice drum head in 6 or 8" diameter either set on a dulcimer shaped 1/2" thick board or suspended in a round based dulcimer body. Yes they are loud and alone they are fine. In a group sometimes I put a 1" wide piece of sponge rubber under the head before putting tension on it. then usually rest pinkie and ring fingers on the head to further mute it. The dulcimer group s that I jam with seem to welcome the addition. The only complaint I have is that above the 11th fret it loses a little ring and clarity
Bill Robison
