Forum Activity for @john-c-knopf

John (good name), you have many options from which to choose. 

The most popular option with my customers is to replace the wooden tuners with either "Perfection pegs" by Knilling or Pegheds, which are a similar product.  Both of these mimic ebony violin pegs, but have secret mechanical guts in them which allow for very smooth and very accurate tuning.  They can seem expensive at first, but I hear that they save a LOT of tuning headaches for regular players.  Those with arthritis and other hand issues LOVE them!  And they look like wood pegs.

Machine tuners work well, but I think they are a "visual jar" to the smooth historic lines of a fine dulcimer.

I agree completely with Ken. When I build a modern dulcimer, I tend to use spray semi-gloss clear lacquer such as Deft. It's fast-drying, smooth-coating, and looks fine to me once it's knocked down with steel wool, waxed and buffed.

For historical reproductions, which I'm known for now, I try to replicate the finish that was used by the original builder.  This would include (amber) shellac, flat black milk paint, oil or whatever else I can determine that they used back then.

Great question!

What an excellent update on the work going on in Hindman!  Now folks everywhere can see what's really happening in the factory with these workers in recovery.  Doug has started a meaningful enterprise, with world-class musical instruments being made and lives being changed.

Take a look!

This is indeed sad news.  I visited John at his home many years ago when I started building Thomas dulcimores.  He showed me his shop and his drawings of the Thomas he had measured.  He had a lot of stories to tell, all interesting.

There is an article by him in Foxfire 12.

Fess Parker played a dulcimer in one of his old TV series, either "Daniel Boone" or "Davy Crockett".  John Boy Walton played one in "The Waltons", too.  Jim Varney ("Ernest") once showed Chevy Chase how to play it on Chevy's show.

The first episode of the old "Christy" TV series shows Fairlight Spencer playing a dulcimer to soothe her children at a stressful time.

A double-back is a permanent part of the instrument, whereas a possum-board is a temporary, removable part that the instrument can be set on. 

My Galaxes have about a 1/4" spacing between backs, but you could even get by with 1/8" if you wanted to.

Don't overthink it, Richard.  I have not run across any standard spacings myself.  I'd say a space of anywhere from 1/4" to 3/8" would be fine.  You don't need more than that.

"HO, HO, HO!!!   MERR-R-R-R-R-Y CHRIST-MAS-S-S-S-S-S!!!"

Yes, indeed, Happy Thanksgiving to all of us here.  There is so much to be thankful for.  I think of the old hymn "We Gather Together" every Thanksgiving.  It's a good one to play on the dulcimer.

Hello, Jack!  Welcome to the party!

You could try looking up Ocooch Hardwoods for thin, very good quality wood.  They cater to laser engravers and scroll-sawers, but will cut to the sizes you want also.

CBGitty has many inexpensive parts to choose from.  They cater to cigar-box guitar builders, but us as well.

Have fun!

Have a look at my website if you need a historic reproduction of a dulcimer (or "dulcimore") made for your enjoyment.  These are noter-drone dulcimers, made just like the ones you read and hear about from time to time. www.knopfdulcimers.com

Alex, I think it was for family continuity and for entertainment in a time where computers, TVs and to some extent radio was non-existent.  Folks had to have entertainment of SOME kind, and this was an enjoyable way to spend some family time.

One thing I've noticed is how many of these songs dealt with disasters, death, sickness, loss of dear ones, etc.  Theirs was a hard existence in a hilly country that made farming and life in general very difficult.  The tunes often were in minor keys as well.

That's just what I was thinking!  One of those aggravating "OOPS!" situations that happen to a builder from time to time.   The solution is to play it up somehow, with some decoration or a nameplate or something!  Then tell folks "that's the way it's SUPPOSED TO look!"

JD, one of our members here, Ken Hulme, wrote a very helpful lesson on just such a situation. 

It's called "I Just Got A Dulcimer. Now What?"  He will no doubt be posting a message for you soon!

$300 sounds like a good, solid value to me.  It's a beauty!

Look up "Mark Blair Dulcimers" on Facebook.  There is a page there of photos of Mark's work.  He passed away several years ago according to the posts there.

Vicrich, you have a beautiful dulcimer there! 

I don't recognize it right off, either, but it seems to be well-designed and assembled by somebody.  The soundhole patterns intrigue me.  They remind me somewhat of Ben Seymour's hole patterns on his Galax dulcimers.

That's the only type of dulcimer I can think of that would need one of those --  a bowed dulcimer.

Not to mention a table saw, bandsaw, jointer/planer, drill press, belt/disc sander, etc., etc... And electricity, of course.

$500 seems reasonable for a Mize.  Bob was a master craftsman of dulcimers, so if it's in great shape, then that seems like a fair price to me.

Those prices seem fair.  McSpadden does excellent quality work, and their dulcimers hold their value pretty well.  I've owned a couple of all-walnut McSpaddens and have no complaints about any of them.

Hi, Alex!  Welcome to our happy little group of dulcimer fans.  Detroit weather now is overcast and pleasantly cool.  With occasional sprinkles. 

So, to answer your Question #2, I have been a leftie all my life (physically, not politically), and have always played dulcimer "right-handed", or the usual way folks play it.  I built a left-handed J. E. Thomas replica dulcimore for a guy, and found it to be an interesting experience.  He seemed happy with it-- I've heard no complaints as of yet. 

 As to Questions #1, #3 and #4, No, no and no.  Hope you have fun with our dulcimer gang!

Good going!  We're happy that you got a nice dulcimer at a nice price.  To me it sounds like you bought a McSpadden dulcimer kit that was assembled by Bob Thomason. 

McSpadden makes great kits. I've assembled several over the years, and in fact i have one now that I assembled, but swapped out the walnut top it came with for a custom buckeye one that looks like birch or spruce.  Looks and sounds great.

My friend Richard has given you some solid advice.  Check the tuning pegs as well, for smooth turning.  And listen for any buzzing sounds as you play it.  Hopefully there won't be any, but if so, they can be fixed pretty easily.  Sounds like you found a treasure!

Jon, I think that would be a good idea myself.  That way they won't stretch out unevenly over time.  Throwing some of those little dessicant packs in the case to keep down moisture might be a good idea as well.

Well, John and Lisa, I've been building dulcimers for over 50 years now, and I've already made tens of dollars...

Planetary pegs are probably the best type of tuning peg to use on a dulcimer.  They are also the most expensive, but consider how they're made:  There is a main shaft with a gear on it in the center of the peg's casing, with 3 planetary gears arranged around it that make the turning action smooth and accurate, and change the turns ratio from 1:1 to something like 4:1.

Very nice!  One suggestion springs to mind, seeing all of that face carving:  Ron Cook of Ron Cook Studios in California.  Ron built many, many instruments (including dulcimers) in the past, but is now retired. 

He is famous for putting intricate carvings of faces on his dulcimers, and although THESE faces look somewhat different than Ron's faces, it's a possibility.  (On the other hand, I think Ron put labels in all of his instruments, so there's that).

Good luck in finding out more of your dulcimer's history!

Depends on if you want it to sound like a mandolin or a "real" dulcimer.

It resmbles a McSpadden teardrop dulcimer, but the use of 5 pieces on the back sets it apart.  Also the red color is different, and the type of tuners. It may be a homemade copy of a McSpadden.

Dulcimore Dan is an I.D. Stamper fan!   I.D. used those long, jangly, low-pitched strings on his dulcimers.

Has the dulcimer playing of artists such as Brian Jones or Joni Mitchell or Cyndi Lauper or Dolly Parton made a measurable difference?  I don't know.

Maybe Ms. Swift should consider playing a dulcimer, if she could only sit down for two minutes in her concerts.  Attention would certainly be drawn to the dulcimer in such a situation.

Hello!  Welcome to this site!  We're happy to help you out with your questions about your McSpadden dulcimer.

Regarding the light scratches on your fretboard, you could use some liquid wax polish on the entire top surface, applied with some fine (000) steel wool, let dry then buff off the wax. This would also shine the frets at the same time!

The wood is black walnut, and everything but the top, bottom and sides should be solid wood all the way through. Light sanding should be OK.  McSpadden didn't stain any parts-- it's all clear lacquer finish on the walnut.

Adding strap buttons is as easy as you say. I would center the tail button under the endpins.  Drill a pilot hole for the screw in the tailblock, put a dab of soap or wax on the point of the screw, and attach the button. The top button can be attached to the heel of the peghead, either at the end or on the right side. This is a solid block of walnut.

These McSpadden dulcimers always had 4 strings. The six slots are there in the nut and bridge to allow for two different stringing configurations: In the equidistant string set-up, you set the first melody string in Slot 1, the bass string in Slot 6, and put the other two strings in Slots 3 and 5.  In the double-melody set-up, you put the first and second melody strings in Slots 1 and 2, the bass string in Slot 6, and the last string in Slot 4.  So you play the first 2 melody strings as one string.

Have fun!

That looks almost like a full-chromatic fret pattern.   It would be hard for me to play without the more familiar diatonic pattern.  Hope you can have some musical fun with it!

Maddie, Lisa is her real name.  It's OK!

And a Bonnie Annie to you as well, Strumelia!  Your old illustrations are wonderful!

You're entirely welcome, friends!   I'm glad to be able to contribute to a discussion now and then.