Forum Activity for @john-c-knopf

"The mountaineer 'follers (follows) pickin' it' by means of a quill".

The Spanish word for "dulcimer", according to the dictionary, is "dulcémele".

My mom's Christmas cactus got mixed-up and started blooming at Easter!  Is that normal?  At least it was the other Christian holiday...

Venni, that's sad.  May God help you heal from this devastating illness very soon.  

Eleven pounds, eleven ounces in the box.  Probably 8 or 9 pounds?  You can play it on your lap if you have a large lap.

Thank you, Lisa!  That's the effect I was trying to achieve.  I raced through the construction, only to be stymied at the end by the string attachment to the screw eyes!  And finding a box big enough to send it in!

This is a just-completed, all-poplar, authentic Tennessee music box. Really heavily built, but it sounds great, nevertheless!  It has an amber shellac finish, and etched metal nut and bridge plates.  Tuners are screw eyes from the hardware store, and the frets are fence staples!  That's the way it was done in 1885.  Enjoy.

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Wendell, I have the same set of 2 DVDs that you have, but I don't recall ever getting a booklet with them.

Andi, your English is very good, and you write it well.  Welcome to our dulcimer site!  

We have something for everybody here, whether you like to play the dulcimer, want to learn to play it, or need help with dulcimer identification or wood identification.  There are modern dulcimer players here as well as noter/drone players.  And a few luthiers, as well!  I build more than I play, but I do both.  Have fun!

Those tuners look like planetary ones-- the best.

VIRTUALLY, Ken.  It's the only way either of us would survive it.

It's great to hear this news, Ken!  Now we can both hike the Appalachian Trail from Canada to Georgia! (virtually).

Lisa, the late Bob Mize was a legendary, quality builder of mountain dulcimers.  There is no question about that. The number 1922 is probably the serial number, or build number of that dulcimer.  Bob was very prolific.  The crack you indicate on the peghead should cause no problems if it's glued properly.  Mostly it's a cosmetic issue.  How fortunate of you to find this beauty!

Dewey, the wood looks like cherry to me.  It's an orangy color like cherry, and if it IS cherry, it'll slowly turn a beautiful rich red over the years.

Thank you, ladies!

Yessir, this Thomas dulcimore is bound for the Cold Star State!  Ah...Lone Star State, sorry. Poplar and walnut with an antique black finish.  Looks 100 years old, but it's new. 

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It's nice to know my 8-foot-tall Uncle Eddie hasn't been forgotten!  Though he has been "upstaged" somewhat by the 9-foot-tall Mawhee dulcimore built by my talented buddy Dulcimore Dan!  Maybe someday we can stage a boxing event between the giants?

HOORAY!  Our Ken L. is back!

My go-to adhesive remover is (cigarette) lighter fluid, such as Zippo.  If the finish is a hard one such as lacquer, enamel or metal, lighter fluid usually dissolves old or new adhesive fairly quickly, then evaporate completely.

THIS, THIS is the way the dulcimore was meant to be played.  Soft accompaniment to the solo singing voice.

Not even playing the same notes, but harmonizing and filling-in around the singer's voice.  Peaceful and serene.

Bob, what you need to do is make the dot really big, and engrave "Don't blame the builder" on it!

We all knew this day was coming, but we didn't know WHEN.  It's still very sad for us who knew Ralph, and sad for the dulcimer world at large.  He left a great quantity of scholarly work behind, which will instruct and entertain musicians and luthiers for many years.  Rest in peace, dear friend.

And a very merry Christmas to you, Lisa!  Thank you for your service to all of us.

Thanks, Ken! I remember seeing John's dulcimers at a shopping mall and being blown away by the depth, the width, and the wasp-waist on those critters!  I taught a young girl how to play one, and it was nearly as big as she was!

The first two strings are #4 gauge or .013", and the bass string is #8 gauge or .020".

I have -- somewhere-- a brochure from the Upper Cumberland Craft Center when John Maxwell was running it, and a John Maxwell dulcimer which was damaged when somebody removed it from the wall of a T.G.I.Friday's restaurant years ago.

Lisa, homemade strings are made by taking a small spool of piano wire, and twisting a loop in the free end.  Then you cut the wire off to the length you want.   It's a little tricky to get a good twist of the wire.

An all-walnut J. E. Thomas replica dulcimore with just intonation and homemade strings.

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Wilkommen, Jost!  I don't speak much more Deutsch than that, though my last name is German (Knopf).

Your English is very good and quite understandable.  Danke for joining and sharing with us!

My idea is if the dulcimer is curvy (hourglass), it's a LADY.  If the dulcimer has a fat middle (Galax or teardrop), it's a GENT.   Nature itself should teach us that...  Now if the dulcimer is straight-sided, or asymmetrical, well...um...OK, it's just a theory.

Thank you, Lisa, for starting this website, and giving all of us a way to connect, instruct, and bless one another.  This has been especially important these last 9 months.  May you and yours have a truly blessed Thanksgiving.  And that goes for all of the other members here, as well!

Wonderful!  Wonderful!  It all worked out!  

McSpadden makes a lovely dulcimer.  If you like, you can replace those tuners with the same thing, or something similar.  There are many options from which to choose.

Looks like you found a winner, Nathina!

Just call or email McSpadden Instruments.  They'll be able to tell you.

That logo is woodburned into the fretboard.  I have one just like it.

Hello, Nathina! 

That symbol is the logo of McSpadden Instruments (also known as The Dulcimer Shoppe) of Mountain View, Arkansas.

Tailpins made of nails aren't a problem with loop-end strings.  When I started with dulcimers in the mid-70s, all of the strings were loop-end, sometimes with green chenille wrapped into the windings! 

Ball-end strings can be converted to loop-end strings by removing the "ball".  If you dare, take heavy electrician's pliers and squeeze the thing until it cracks, then remove the pieces. VOILA!  A loop-end string!