OK, 7th fret it is.  Thanks again everyone!

The end result should be that when you press the string down on the 7th fret, it will sound a note that is the same but one whole octave higher than the open string. Like in a "do re mi" scale they would be low do and high do.

No, Steven. You measure the distance to the 7th fret (actually the center of the top of the 7th fret) and double that distance.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Thanks again to everyone for your welcoming comments and kind assistance!  Ken, based on your numbering of the frets, I have a 6 1/2 fret.  So, do I double the distance to the 6 1/2 fret to determine the location of the bridge?  Also, thanks for the helpful woodworking tips.      (I seem to be using "thanks" a lot on this site!)

Best wishes on getting a playable dulcimer, Steven!

Stephen -- I numbered the frets for you on the attached version of your photo.

A good trick when doing glue up -- to avoid a lot of staining from squeeze out -- is to cover both sides of the joint with blue painters tape before applying the glue.  That's saved me hours of sanding!

FYI -- our glue of choice for all this is Titebond II or III.  They can be un-glued if necessary by the application of a heatgun/hair dryer to the glued joints for a few minutes.

It may be a fair bit of work, but you're learning a lot about how the dulcimer goes together, and what to do -- or not do -- when you decide to build one from scratch, or from your own kit.  

Good job getting the photos here, btw!

dulcimer marked.jpg  •  513KB

This doesn't really represent what I started with.  On one side the glue failed and the side "blew out", leaving a gap of about 1/4"between the side and the bottom.  I clamped and re-glued the side to the bottom and you can see I've sanded the side.  The dark area along the top/side glue joint is the remnants of the squeeze-out.  Also, the glue job on the fret board failed and about 1/2 of the fret board was loose from the top.  So, I also glued and clamped the fret board to the top.  The previous owner stained about 1/2 of the peg head a redwood color.  I've tried to darken the peg head and obscure the line where the red stain ended and the unstained wood began.  Maybe it's more work than it's worth to repair this instrument but it's a fun challenge.  In any case, I just have to re-stain the repaired side, apply a clear finish and re-install the tuners before stringing it up.  But which fret do I use to calculate the bridge position?

Dulcimer - 1.JPG  •  140KB

Dulcimer - 2.JPG  •  51KB

Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge of "dulcimology".  I'll try to attach a photo to you so you can see what I have.  But, give me a little time... 

Don't just count the frets to find "the seventh fret". Do you know whether your dulcimer had a 6.5 fret or not? Not knowing can lead to a grave error when determining which fret is actually the 7th fret, in order to correctly place the bridge. Many older dulcimer kits like from the 1970s-80s did not have 6.5 frets added. More recent kits usually do have a 6.5 fret included.
If a total beginner is told to 'count your frets' then they'd likely be including both the 6 and the 6.5 fret when counting-  thus thinking that the repeat octave is the C#.  Most beginners don't yet know that they should count EITHER the 6 OR the 6.5 fret when 'counting frets'.. but not count both.  I think it really helps to look at a picture:

Yeah, from that description it is what you called "a very low-end instrument".  The peghead as an extension of the fretboard is a dead giveaway.

The reason photos are good is that you mentioned some "minor damage", which might be hard for us to help with if we can't see the extent of the injury.  Do you have a 10-12 year old child/grandchild/neighbor kid who can help up upload a couple photos?

Sorry, my tech skills are non-existent so it would take me a week to figure out how to send a photo.  The instrument is 3 strings, teardrop shape, looks like maple bottom, spruce top with two sound holes on either side of the fret board, mahogany (I think) sides.  Peg head is just an extension of the fret board.  Three guitar style tuners along one side of the peg head with the tuner shafts traversing three holes (3/4"?) drilled in line with the fret board, no nut, outside strings are guided by small brass nails just above the brass zero fret, strings secured to three brass nails at the end of the fret board.  

Pictures!  We can probably tell you which kit be seeing the instrument in whatever state it's in...

You're welcome!  Is it made of luan plywood, by any chance?

I have no idea which kit it is.  It came partially assembled with poor workmanship and some minor damage.  It's three strings and appears to be a very low-end instrument.  But, it's keeping me off the street and out of trouble for the time being.  Stay tuned for my next basic question...

Oh, and THANK YOU for your kind responses!!!!

Welcome Steve:

You know from my friends John, Ken & Richard where to put the edge of the bridge.  As far as tunings, both DAA and DAd are popular for different reasons.  There are a number of other tunings as well, some historic, some modern, which are also very useful.

Which kit did you acquire?  Folkcraft?  McSpadden?  Another?

As a new player, you'll want to join our Beginner Player Group.  Groups must be 'joined' to be able to read and interact with the various discussions.   

Here's a link to the article/booklet I wrote a number of years ago to address new player questions.  It's called I Just Got A Dulcimer, Now What?   It's an illustrated glossary of dulcimer terms (so we all speak the same jargon, plus answers to the common beginner questions about tuning, playing, care and feeding of the instrument.  The discussion has a link to the article itself about six responses down...
Ken Hulme's "I Just Got A Dulcimer, Now What?" Article - Strumelia | fotmd.com

Welcome, Steven!  We're glad to help.  Yes, you should measure the distance from the inside of the nut (right edge) to the octave fret, which is usually the seventh fret.  Double that, then add about 2 or 3 mm extra length to compensate for string stretch when you push the strings down to the frets.  That should get you real close.  DAD and DAA are very popular tunings for the dulcimer.

Hi!  New member here.  First, thank you to Richard Streib and Ken Longfield who sent me welcoming messages before I even realized I'd been accepted as a member.  I think I'm going to like it here. 

I've always loved the sound of the dulcimer (but who doesn't?) and recently had the opportunity to acquire a kit that someone started, made some mistakes and gave up.  I've resolved to salvage the instrument and try to make music.  But, I'm wondering where to place the bridge.  I read an old FOTMD forum thread and it said to measure to the middle of the seventh fret and double that distance.  Is that correct?

Also, I understand that dulcimers are tuned to either DAD or DAA.  Is one preferred over the other?

Thanks for any guidance you can provide.