Thanks everyone for your input. If nothing else, this was a source of interest and curiosity. But, unless the maker chimes in, I guess this will remain a music mystery.
"Shopgoodwill" has an interesting duclimer up for auction (refer "Unbranded 4 String Wood Dulcimer"). It's obviously very old but the distinctive characteristic are the frets. Instead of being installed perpendicular to the fretboard, they are positioned at about a 30 degree (estimated) angle from perpendicular. I've never seen anything like this on a dulcimer or any other fretted instrument. What do you make of it?
Skip: I've never had a banjo lesson so, with the exception of a few chapters of "Banjo for Dummies", I'm self-taught. Music theory is a complete mystery to me so anything beyond "Put your finger here and pick this string" is over my head.
Ken: No offense was intended. My head exploding comment was a reflection on ME not you. I found that the whole diatonic/myxalodian/ionian concept was difficult (at least for me) to take in. Thanks for your previous words of encouragement and thank you for your offer of further instruction.
Thanks everyone for your input. As an aside... I was led to believe the dulcimer is a very simple instrument. However, I started reading Ken Hulme's "I just got a dulcimer. Now what?" article and had to stop for fear my head would explode. Looks like I've got a steep learning curve ahead. But, with support from folks like you guys (and gals), I'm sure I'll manage. Thanks again!
Being old (72), I'm old school and an instruction book probably suits me best. Dulcimer groups are pretty much out of the question. When I mention the dulcimer around here, people invariably reply, "the What?". I'm a 24/7 caregiver for my wife so instruction and practice opportunities are whenever I can find a bit of free time. So, I have to learn at a very inconsistent pace. I noticed quite a few dulcimer books available on-line so I decided to ask your sage advice on which to select. I'm thinking a basic strumming style, fretting only the melody string (I'm a simple guy), is what I'm looking at. Again, thank you for your kind assistance.
I'm finding that my efforts to learn dulcimer by trial and error is not working well and some actual instructional material would be helpful. Can anyone recommend the best instruction book for beginning dulcimer? I won't be delving into "finger dancing" or fingerpicking so the book need not cover advanced techniques. I just need the basics. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone for your thoughts and the great information. You guys always come through!
I'm the new guy here. I acquired a five string dulcimer as a restoration project. It's missing the nut and bridge so I have no idea what the string spacing was originally. I'm guessing it probably had two double strings and a single bass but can anyone recommend the proper spacing for the five strings? The fret board is 1 1/2 inches (39 mm) wide. Thanks for any help you can provide.
Many thanks to you dulcimer veterans for sharing your knowledge! Once again, you have given me helpful direction in my dulcimer journey. I will heed your sage advice.
I'm enjoying my three string dulcimer but am considering acquiring a four string instrument (can't have too many instruments!). Most four strings have a double string but I've seen a few instruments in which all four strings are spaced equidistantly. Should I stick with the standard double string arrangement or go the equidistant route? Any input greatly appreciated.
Wow! Every forum submissison I enter becomes a gigantic learning experience for me. I'm trying my best to follow your strumming discussion. Thanks for expanding the topic... I need the instruction! But, back to the original question about adding a fret: I think I have the answer: I'll just get another dulcimer that was built with the extra fret(s). After all, aren't two dulcimers better than one? Now, if I can just figure out a way to convince my wife that the banjo equation also applies to dulcimers...
I got my 3 string dulcimer and am enjoying the learning process. (However, I'm finding that strumming in BOTH directions while fretting is like rubbing my stomach and patting my head at the same time.) Anyway, I got an instrument that does not have a 6+ fret. I'm starting to think that a 6+ fret would give me more playing options. So, my question... What do you think of me installing a 6+ fret? I've never actually installed frets before but I have replaced some missing frets during a banjo restoration. Any input greatly appreciated.
Corvus: Thanks for the additional input. The variety of picking and strumming styles is one of the things that make dulcimers fascinating. I've played the banjo for about 12 years and the dulcimer requires a whole different skill set. I'm looking forward to the challenge!
Wow, even more interesting dulcimer information to store in my memory banks! Thanks again for the great instruction!
Thanks everyone for your kind and valued input. You're responses have all increased my knowledge of "dulcimology"!
My previous question dealt with the arched or scalloped bottom surface of the fret board. My thanks to those who responded. My current inquiry is regarding the "scooped" area of the fret board where fret board material is removed between the last fret and the bridge, resulting in additional space between the strings and the fret board. Is it to reduce mass and therefore increase the transmission of vibrations? Thanks for any insight you can provide.
Also, thanks for the additional technical information concerning scalloped/arched fret boards. The many variations in construction in pursuit of tone and volume is fascinating to me and I really appreciate you sharing your skill, experience and knowledge!
I'm the new guy with the steep learning curve. I did a forum search for "fret board scoops" and found nothing. So, my question... What is the purpose of the "scoop" in fret boards? Are they necessary?
Thanks. It appears dulcimer construction has a lot in common with banjo building... You never know exactly what tone you'll be getting out of your choice of woods, design, hardware, strings and any number of other variables. It's the combination of all the variables that determines tone. In other words, it's like a box of chocolates. Thanks again!
Is there an advantage to fret boards that are scalloped on the bottom so they only contact the instrument's top at a few points?
That answers my question. Once again, you've come through for me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
When looking for an instrument to purchase, is it important to have the 6 1/2 fret?
Thanks everyone for sharing your sage knowledge and advice. I like the idea of a larger instrument producing a more mellow sound. The trade-off is (I'm guessing) that the fret spacing will also be larger - which may be a problem for my small hands. But in any case, I'm happy to learn I won't have to pay for "bling" to get that beautiful dulcimer "ring"!
DQOTD: Dumb Question of the Day
Forgive me for monopolizing your time and trying your patience but I'm facing a steep dulcimer learning curve. Question: Hourglass shapes, scroll peg heads and beautiful woods are, to me, aesthetically pleasing. But do these features actually make a difference in the performance of the instrument or are they just eye candy?
OK, 7th fret it is. Thanks again everyone!
Thanks again to everyone for your welcoming comments and kind assistance! Ken, based on your numbering of the frets, I have a 6 1/2 fret. So, do I double the distance to the 6 1/2 fret to determine the location of the bridge? Also, thanks for the helpful woodworking tips. (I seem to be using "thanks" a lot on this site!)
This doesn't really represent what I started with. On one side the glue failed and the side "blew out", leaving a gap of about 1/4"between the side and the bottom. I clamped and re-glued the side to the bottom and you can see I've sanded the side. The dark area along the top/side glue joint is the remnants of the squeeze-out. Also, the glue job on the fret board failed and about 1/2 of the fret board was loose from the top. So, I also glued and clamped the fret board to the top. The previous owner stained about 1/2 of the peg head a redwood color. I've tried to darken the peg head and obscure the line where the red stain ended and the unstained wood began. Maybe it's more work than it's worth to repair this instrument but it's a fun challenge. In any case, I just have to re-stain the repaired side, apply a clear finish and re-install the tuners before stringing it up. But which fret do I use to calculate the bridge position?
Thanks everyone for sharing your knowledge of "dulcimology". I'll try to attach a photo to you so you can see what I have. But, give me a little time...
Sorry, my tech skills are non-existent so it would take me a week to figure out how to send a photo. The instrument is 3 strings, teardrop shape, looks like maple bottom, spruce top with two sound holes on either side of the fret board, mahogany (I think) sides. Peg head is just an extension of the fret board. Three guitar style tuners along one side of the peg head with the tuner shafts traversing three holes (3/4"?) drilled in line with the fret board, no nut, outside strings are guided by small brass nails just above the brass zero fret, strings secured to three brass nails at the end of the fret board.
You guys were so helpful with my last query, I hope you don't mind if I burden you with another question:
I see dulcimers advertised as "right handed" and "left handed". Could a left handed dulcimer be converted to a right handed dulcimer by simply flipping over the nut and bridge?
I have no idea which kit it is. It came partially assembled with poor workmanship and some minor damage. It's three strings and appears to be a very low-end instrument. But, it's keeping me off the street and out of trouble for the time being. Stay tuned for my next basic question...
Oh, and THANK YOU for your kind responses!!!!
Hi! New member here. First, thank you to Richard Streib and Ken Longfield who sent me welcoming messages before I even realized I'd been accepted as a member. I think I'm going to like it here.
I've always loved the sound of the dulcimer (but who doesn't?) and recently had the opportunity to acquire a kit that someone started, made some mistakes and gave up. I've resolved to salvage the instrument and try to make music. But, I'm wondering where to place the bridge. I read an old FOTMD forum thread and it said to measure to the middle of the seventh fret and double that distance. Is that correct?
Also, I understand that dulcimers are tuned to either DAD or DAA. Is one preferred over the other?
Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
