I can adjust the contrast for the white text areas by deepening the yellow and pale blue background colors just a little, if anyone needs me to. Then it would be nicely readable if printed out or copied in greyscale.
Great poster!
Note: the word "holding" at the bottom has a typo.
Also- many folks would be printing/copying this out in greyscale, and it'd be good to bump up the contrast between the lettering and the background colors so it's easy to read. ...making the background colors behind the white text just a bit darker. Here's how it prints out on a blk&white printer as it is now:
No real need for a poll if everyone thinks that's a good plan, Dusty.
Does anyone have other options they'd like to see considered?
And additional thanks to @geoff-black for starting this real nice thread over ten years ago!
-I wonder Geoff- do you still have your wormy chestnut Glenn? Any photo you could add for us? Would love to see your thoughts on this dulcimer of Kevin's. 
That dulcimer is lovely! (btw Kevin I reduced the size of your pix- they were way off the page)
Not having a 6.5 fret, I would strongly recommend a 1-5-5 (DAA, CGG) tuning... would make your life way easier in playing tunes without running into 'missing' notes.
I highly recommend the "Peg Drops"- for both sticking and slipping pegs. The drops seem to correct all woes with stubborn wooden pegs. They are made from liquified rosin and they make my wooden pegs behave beautifully- holding tight when i want but also moving smoothly and not getting stuck.
Since the peg ends are not actually sticking out from the pegbox, use a little dowel with a bit of fabric over the end (to cosmetically protect the peg ends), and tap them inwards as Greg said. Tap lightly with a little hammer and increase only as needed. Make sure the dulcimer has been for several hours in a room that is not too cold or too dry when you do this. Never put the instrument anywhere near a stove or radiator.
The only Glenn dulcimer I ever saw in person was from the 70s and as I recall was quite petite and slender. Use the Strothers string calculator! If it's a petite dulcimer you may not want a standard string set.
Most dealers in old items consider "antique" as anything 100 yrs old or more... and "vintage" to be something between 50-99 yrs old. 'Retro' is a term people nowadays use for something like 20-40 yrs old.
A 1975 dulcimer would now be 47 yrs old, and personally I'd call it vintage.
KenH I'd call you and myself vintage as well, but maybe you'd prefer Retro Ken? lolol 
The end result should be that when you press the string down on the 7th fret, it will sound a note that is the same but one whole octave higher than the open string. Like in a "do re mi" scale they would be low do and high do.
Don't just count the frets to find "the seventh fret". Do you know whether your dulcimer had a 6.5 fret or not? Not knowing can lead to a grave error when determining which fret is actually the 7th fret, in order to correctly place the bridge. Many older dulcimer kits like from the 1970s-80s did not have 6.5 frets added. More recent kits usually do have a 6.5 fret included.
If a total beginner is told to 'count your frets' then they'd likely be including both the 6 and the 6.5 fret when counting- thus thinking that the repeat octave is the C#. Most beginners don't yet know that they should count EITHER the 6 OR the 6.5 fret when 'counting frets'.. but not count both. I think it really helps to look at a picture:
I never hear people saying "MD" or "HD" when they are talking. Only when they're writing. Because in written discussions it's a pain to type it all out over and over in every other sentence. It's way faster to SAY those names than it is to type them.
Jean Ritchie wrote the Forward for L.Allen Smith's 1983 book A Catalogue of Pre-Revival Appalachian Dulcimers.
Here is what she said concerning the name of our beloved instrument, and the part she herself played in the evolution of that name starting from the 1940s:
Consider that it was not until at least the middle of the 20th century that there were any mountain dulcimers brought to the entire western half of the US (more than a century after the dedicated work of early Appalachian dulcimer makers such as Thomas, Singleton, Prichard, etc), and consider also that there are many other other countries in south and central America, not to mention all of Canada.
But my main point is that i would be sad to see the reference to the region of origin where our instrument was first created stripped away from its name, replaced by a broader label based on our whole nation rather than a region. It would feel to me like removing a connection to the unique culture specific to that region. That's why I am fond of the names 'mountain dulcimer', Appalachian dulcimer', or even 'lap dulcimer' or 'dulcimore'... those names still connect with and honor the region and culture that created the instrument. Just my two cents.
@irene - I too find it highly annoying that wikipedia has accepted photos of BOTH the 'American' instruments that show instruments made in other countries instead. The dulcimer pictured is a Roosebec (made in the middle east) and the banjo pictured is a very cheap 1960s pot metal tenor banjo made in Germany. How utterly lame is this?? The irony is astounding, considering it is the very point of the whole list.
so, what if next year they find another old dulcimer with an authentic earlier date?
Well, if you want a poll, then please gather here the suggested dates and reasons for them- once i create the poll I can't change the items or add to them. Discuss this for a bit if you would and somebody make a post to organize the options... then in a day or two I can create/activate the poll from those various choices. Now's the time to make suggestions to add to the choices.
If you guys wanted, I could create a Poll here on fotmd to see the number of votes for each suggested date...?
Thanks for the great photo!
The headstock, with its 6 strings and sturdy long shape, reminds me of a large version of French epinettes. This fellow is obviously interested in early instruments and their history. I see another headstock in the making on the table- perhaps for a 4 string dulcimer. How sweet those tiny heart sound holes are!
Is that a vielle on the table in the photo? Lovely! I love the very old sounds such instruments produce.
Great insight Dusty. In fact, I have a banjo with a string that rings out in an annoying way- I will try this fix next time i take it out to play! I have a little nut file that has served me well for years.
OK if the scale length is 27" then forget everything I said.
Ok well that helps a lot. 22 1/2 " is a very short scale length... practically like an epinette.
You don't say what gauge your other strings are - that would help!
But .012 for a middle string at 22-23" scale length is too thin a string for DAd or CGC... and whatever tuning you use, a string of .012 for a middle string will be rather loose... so that when a capo presses the strings even further down than the nut slot level, that middle string is likely to vibrate against frets when strummed open. It's a shame you already filed down frets, as that's a more drastic and risky solution (sort of like cutting off a table leg if the table wobbles).
All you need do here is put on strings that are more appropriate to your short scale length. A heavier set will not be lax and vibrate so much that they create sympathetic ringing against the frets. The middle string will likely need to be at least a .014, for example. How did the current set of strings get chosen?
The Strothers gauge calculator is very helpful when ordering strings: http://www.strothers.com/string_choice.html
FWIW, your described 'ringing' is not a string that is 'dischordant' (meaning a note out of tune)... it's more a noise, a wolf tone, or a buzz type issue.
Also- please elaborate on what you mean about the middle string that it sounds "off" or "dischordant:
Do you mean it's actually out of tune, meaning not the right note, sharp or flat? OR
Do you mean it has a bad tone- like a buzzy sound or thuddy/twangy. Need to know this!
What is your VSL/scale length from nut to bridge? And what gauges are the strings do you have on this dulcimer? These factors are important in figuring out your problem.
(note: don't attempt any tuning higher than EBE or you may break strings)
@AMaiorano , thank you SO much for your generous and thoughtful FOTMD 'Patron' donation! It is deeply appreciated and i use it to pay the monthly costs to keep this site running. 
I would like to take this moment to thank a few very special members .
There have been a handful of people over the past couple of months who have made donations to FOTMD, unasked and without waiting for any public call for donations. They have thoughtfully and generously made site donations during this holiday season, without wanting any recognition. A couple of these kind folks even went to the trouble of sending their check in the mail... one of them from far overseas!
I just want to deeply thank these people who quietly supported FOTMD during this pandemic season, and during these dark winter months. You know who you are.
Your support is what enables me to keep this site up and running. I truly, truly appreciate your kindness and your generous hearts.
May your good deeds shine back upon you with abundant warmth and love! 
Virginia dulcimer maker Keith Young used to make flat-bottomed fine tuning wooden beads similar way, with a hole to thread the string through. See the various photos in this thread.
Keith's dulcimers look very different than yours though in all other ways. I don't think Keith invented such things either, I'm pretty sure fine tuning beads that slide have been used on other instruments besides dulcimers.
I'm wondering the purpose of that deep slot. Do you think it might held an original wooden bridge? I've seen lots of dulcimers with their bridge inserted into such a slot. Even the Keith young in the above thread has its bridge set into a cut slot, though not as large as your slot.
Sorry I have not heard of this person Titus. Maybe someone else has.
You might ask @patricia-delich who is very knowledgeable about 1960s-70s California dulcimer people and who publishes "Hearts of the Dulcimer"- see her page here: https://fotmd.com/patricia-delich
(btw i removed your other thread that was identical to this one, only one is needed)
Well said KenH. To all our fondly remembered friends! 🎄🛷🕯
One of the saddest 'Christmas' songs ever written. Joni's "River" is about regrets of a lost love. She says it's about sadness or loneliness around Christmas time.
Joni is a recipient of the Kennedy Center Honors this year.
Her song River (which was on her Blue album) has just had a wonderful new animation film created to accompany it:
Dave that is truly heartbreaking. Thank you for posting it here as a good reminder for others.
Just for info- I clicked on the .M4a file showing in the post, it downloaded to my laptop, I then opened it in itunes and it played fine for me.
I'm starting to think the tune could have been something David pieced together from various 'Irish-y' phrases. Good musicians can do that and spontaneously create a 'new' tune from snippets of existing tunes in their mind. This tune is pretty, but it also makes me think of tune snippets artfully strung together.
Old-time musicians do this as well, especially when sitting around in a jam and doodling, or searching for a tune to play while in a jam session and people are trying to figure out a next tune to play.
Not sure, but it sounds to me a bit like an Irish tune. Perhaps if you post it on thesession.org they will know right away what it is.
Lucky Dave, if you enjoy hearing deep sounding dulcimer playing blues, be sure to watch @christine-shoemaker 's videos !
Great info from Ken.
I do want to add though- you said this dulcimer has no 6.5 fret. That would make it a little hard to play in DAd using chord style playing. You'd frequently get frustrated not having that note on the melody string.
However, if you try a 1-5-5 tuning (DAA or CGG) you would have most needed notes on the melody string. You can try out playing mostly on the melody string and leaving the other strings unfretted, sounding as drones. That's a very pretty older way of playing and this dulcimer might be perfect for giving it a try. The 'home' or tonic note of the tune is then located at the 3rd fret of the melody string.
For DAA/CGG tuning, you could use .010 or .012 gauge for the melody AND middle strings, and then as Ken suggested a .020 or a .022 for the bass low string. The thicker the string, the tighter it will be, so you don't want to go too tight/heavy on an instrument with wooden tuning pegs.
If you are used to fretting with your fingers, you can try 'finger dancing' style, where you fret the melody all on the melody string and play the other strings open and unfretted. It's a pretty way to play! You get the ancient sound of the drones.
Does your wonderful Sunhearth have the typical sunburst sound holes? We'd love to see a picture of it, it must be beautiful!
What is the VSL (vibrating string length)? Measure in inches from the nut to the bridge. Also tell us what tuning you are hoping to tune to.
You should know that your dulcimer by Martin is one that is coveted by many. Don't make changes to it! It is pretty valuable especially since it seems it is in pristine new condition with original packaging. Just wipe off the dust. Let us know about the VSL and your preferred tuning.
Jim, sounds like your friend Teilhard is skilled at restoring an old banjo. I love to see that! A happy new life for a lovely old banjer... and joy for you to play! 
That's lovely to hear Patricia! 
That jumping was fun, Mary.
I'm curious as to why you left the stage for a while- ?
Patrick- I watched your video- very cool!
So- who made the instrument in your video? (and the bow).
What are your strings tuned to in the video?- and are you sometimes playing the far string?- I seem to only be hearing the melody and middle strings. ?
Since this thread started 10 years ago, I sold the less nice of the two jouhikkos/tagelharpas that I had. I kept the nicer custom one I had made. Sadly, I'm not currently playing it. Perhaps one day I will get inspired again!
I have many cool instruments and little time to play them. I hope once I retire I can play with my 'children' again and have fun. :)
It's nice to see that you are enjoying your lovely jouhikko! Please keep me updated on your progress.
Well said John and Richard.
Grateful for the good things in my life. Hugs to all my FOTMD friends.
It's lovely, nicely carved with great fiddle edges. If it is an Amburgey, it's best not mess with it- or it will drastically lose value and be ruined. Best not to strip it, paint it, or use heavy or dark varnish or put 'decorations' on it. I assume you are (hopefully) keeping its original pegs.
No identifying marks, anywhere?
What makes you think it was made in the 60s or 70s?
I made small warming pillows (like rectangular beanbags really) of cotton filled with whole flaxseed. You can microwave them for 1-2 min (be careful not to heat too long or the cotton can scorch. They stay warm longer than rice bags or other fillings, because the flaxseed contains oil which retains the heat for longer. You can use one for several years and then replace the flax filling. I like the flax also because it has a nice gentle silky feel inside the pillow. You can also put the pillow in the freezer and it will be a longlasting cool pack too. I made a smaller cooling eye pillow with flax and keep it in the freezer for when I want a refreshing eye rest.
If you don't fill the pillow too firmly, it will wrap nicely around any area you want to warm or cool. I usually heat my larger pillow 1 min then squish it around a bit and heat another 40 sec.
Ken i was getting the impression that this poster was referring to using the thumb when fretting with the left hand- not the right hand strumming.
Lancaster- you just have to be patient. The callus and toughening will take a couple weeks to start to develop. Don't overdo 'too' much at first. The pain gets less after the first few days. :)
