I'm glad that was helpful. Often it takes it a little experimenting to get right action for your playing style.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

If a bridge is simply too high, you can lower it by taking it out and sanding or filing the bottom a bit. Do it a little at a time and tune and play it after each reduction.

If you have measured the bridge height and know about how much too high it is, you first pass may be a larger one, then do it a bit by bit.

Okay.  I replaced the bridge and thanks for telling me where to find those. I've put new strings on it. I'll play it awhile and see if I like it. I'm going to try replacements on that Dulcimer Factory one that I started out with. The action is too high and it's worth a try. Thanks for all the help!

I think I will try and put grooves on that bridge. I can look at my Ron Gibson and get an idea of what they should look like. Managed to snap the bass string but already have an order on the way for tomorrow. At least I reviewed how to string a scroll head and I know what I'm doing wrong. It needs a little tweaking. 

I really can’t tell much from the photos and am not sure what you want to know. Folkcraft kits came in two shapes; hourglass and teardrop. From the scroll in the photo yours appears to be an hourglass shaped one. I’m not sure what style nuts and bridges were used back in 1987. I think they are similar to the current Delvin bridges. You can see them on the Folkcraft website. Usually the bridges needed a lot of trimming to get a good string height.

Ken

”The dulcimer sings a sweet song.”

"Kit" can mean a lot of things. For example, an fine instrument plus case plus a ukulele pick, a 3 inch "noter" plus a CD and book can be described as a kit. A kit can also be just plans and pieces of wood.

Particularly if buying through eBay, ShopGoodwill, or a crafts store any document, description or label should be treated as mere suggestions about possible origin. Often accessories and documents found in the same closet with an instrument are all simply thrown into one box.

That's not to criticize auction purchases, that's how I got several of mine.  

On my instruments I typically use a nut or bridge with a flat bottom and a sloped (not rounded) top with the high edge toward the fretted portion. I then carefully slope the slots to match. The VSL should run from the inside of one to the inside of the other.

I am thinking it might have been sold noter style just because of the accessories. My Dulcimer Shoppe dulcimer has a label that said it is a kit. Ithoughtthat might be a common thing. It's possible that I flipped the bridge as it is loose in the slot .  But I'm pretty sure the squared off side should go in the slot.  The nut slipped over when I was restringing it.  I think I will put it all back together, tune it and see what the action is like.  If it seems high, I'll probably try putting in grooves.  I'll take it slow and try not to cause any damage. Thanks!

If you have not studied the Folkcraft website, a visit is in order. https://folkcraft.com/

Connecticut should only indicate that this was made when the factory was there between 1979 and 2006. I don't see anything on the Folkcraft site that indicates that they made "noter style" instruments. Almost any Appalachian dulcimer can be played with either a noter or the fingers.

Since the builder of a kit can glue any label inside, there is no reason to expect to see "made from a kit" inside. A label is simply a label. 

Did you, by any chance, flip the bridge over while changing strings?

As shown in the photos, the nut is well off center. The string grooves appear to be rather tight on the strings, but it is hard to tell from the photo. Perhaps the cut-away for the outer two strings isn't as big as it should be and is creating sideways pull.

You should check string heights when you acquire a "new" instrument. There is lots of good information on how to do that here on FOTMD.

Folkcraft sells a variety of replacement bridges complete with notches.
https://folkcraft.com/pages/search-results-page?q=bridge&page=1&rb_product_type=Building%20Supplies%20%26%20Plans

I managed to delete the entire thread while trying to delete a draft......

One of the reasons I still have a land line....

Because of the way your strings are anchored, straight, short line to the bridge.  They are not going to vary any, if at all under "normal" playing. the string tension will keep your VSL intact, and I wouldn't expect buzzing etc.

If you start pullin'/bendn' notes ...all bets are off.

If you are happy with the height of action, and the intonation, a few strokes with the edge of a nail file, steak knife, or most any other sharpish edged weapon will suffice. [at the point where the strings are resting/breaking over the bridge]. You are only looking to give the string a guide to keep it facing forward. No need for deep grooves. Worst case....you go too far, and end up finding another nut....

Best case...you now have a deeper relationship with your new friend...

Go slow and minimalist, it's a lot harder to put the material back if you take too much.

It's a bit hard to tell from the pictures... but it looks as if the strings rest on top/center, vs the flat forward edge....That is where to put your "guides".  Bringing the slots deeper than minimal will bring your strings closer or meeting the squared forward facing edge.

Or..... that 2nd cousin on the other side of the family, that used to play in a band can help you out......but he uses drywall screws.....they hold better.....

have a blessed day!

I managed to delete the entire thread while trying to delete a draft. Will try again with pictures. 

This is a 1987 Folkcraft dulcimer. It was made in Connecticut and might have been sold as a noter style dulcimer. It's not marked as a kit and everything seems to be well finished. One side of the bridgre is squared off and the other rounded. I didn't see any grooves on either side.