You can slide a knife edge under a corner and pry the fret up but you are almost sure to create splinters on the slot edge. Frets have little 'teeth' on each side of the tang to grip the sides of the slot. These teeth have a tendency to tear out the surface of the fretboard. There are tools the help prevent that but they don't work 100%.
hewalker, Thanks for the info. I'm glad you included he photo, it answers my other concenrs quite well.
Thanks, missed that and the width range, 1 1/8-2". I wonder if the fingers can be adjusted sideways, can fit over doubled strings and be set up for 3 or 5 courses.
I looked at their site earlier today to see if they published any specs. I couldn't find any. I I wanted to find out what the open width is [ 1 3/8 to 1 5/8"], if the fingers are sideways adjustable so they can be placed over different string spacings and if they work on flat fingerboards [I don't use any of the instruments they make them for]. They also offer custom made. If they will work oh MD's , there could be a lot of unique tunings done.
A taller seat/stool or standing with the MD on some kind of stand?
To clarify, all MD's have the ionian scale, it starts on the 3rd fret. The scale name [key] is defined by the note on that fret. DAA is used to play songs in the key of D [D is on the 3rd fret]. MD's having a 6+ fret have 2 ionian scales, one starts on the open using the 6+ and one starts on the 3rd fret using the 6. So, in DAd, you have the notes for the key of G [starting on fret 3] and D [starting open] on the melody string.
Since they have 'chromatic' instruments [all notes/keys available], they play with you or play in the 'keys' [note ranges] you have available. Otherwise you could be retuning for some tunes or adlibbing some notes.
Don;
Tunings are a physical thing, they are nothing more than the 'open' notes of the strings. The different tunings are used to facilitate physical access to various ranges/arrangements of notes. Most all the rest is music theory, which you can find on the net, in libraries or via classes and will pickup over time.
I'm not sure that there's more options, just different ones. DAA is probably more useful to noter drone players because of the 'extra' notes below the 'D' on the 3rd fret but there's a lot more written data available for DAd. I imagine everyone starts by playing ND [noter/drone] style at first, it feels natural, and easy to do. Many folks never change to the chord style. It's one of the advantages of taking up this instrument, being able to play how, and what, you want and like.
VSL = vibrating string length. You can get the gauge from the builder or use a micrometer or vernier calipers. The gauge is the measured reading, ie., .011 [typical for melody strings]. Your string are probably close to; .018, .012, .009, so you can probably go down to DAd but the strings may be a bit slack.
Yep, or you can play one string at a time [finger pick or flat pick with a pick]. These can be done in any tuning.
Maybe. What is the VSL [distance between the nut and bridge] and what is the string gauge [thickness]. You can try loosening them to DAd. The strings may be too small [thin] which will allow the to be too loose or floppy.
This site can give you a starting point for your string gauges, they will be a bit on the light size.
Changing to these different tunings is pretty easy. Starting with your present tuning of DAA:
1- to tune to DAdd, tighten the melody string(s) to the same note as the 7th fret on the bass string.
2- to tune to the other tunings, loosen the melody strings from DAdd to the note desired.
3- to tune to other tunings, such as CGc, etc, you usually loosen the strings [there are a few exceptions]. Keep in mind that the DAdd tuning tightens the strings to very close to their maximum strength, about 2-3 notes below breaking point.
For reference; a standard MD, bass D is D3, A is A3, melody D is D4, and it is written as DAd(d). Bass dulcimers are tuned an octave lower, D2, A2, D3.
Set up 2 folders on a PC, 'PDF'S for tablet' and 'PDF'S on tablet'.
Download MobileSheets Companion and the manual
http://www.zubersoft.com/mobilesheets/companion.html
Connect to WIFI on both units.
Click on the 3 vertical dots [overflow icon] at the upper right on 1st page that appears [main library of MSP] the tablet then select 'Sync to PC'.
A popup will appear on the PC allowing you to select the tablet, selet it an click ok at the bottom right.
.on the PC, click on the upper left icon and click on 'batch import' [I think it is] and find the 'PDF'S for tablet' folder, select it and go. I may have left out some steps, going strictly from memory right now [not so good for us old timers :)].
G=000 or 020, D=010 or 012, C=133 or 333.
skip:
( smaller/thinner/lighter gage string will be easier to push down.)
So a double 10 maybe would be easier to fret (less pressure using my thumb) than a double 12, making a clearer sound?
Yes. It may lose a bit of volume. As to 'clearer sound', that's probably subjective.
String size and VSL. For a given VSL/tension a smaller/thinner/lighter gage string will be easier to push down. For a given size/tension a long string is easier to push down. Note that the action is dime next to the 1st fret, nickel ON the 7th fret.
The bass string is tuned to the D below middle C, D3. The middle string is to the A below middle C, A3. The melody string is tuned to either the same A as the middle string, DAA, or to the D [D4] just above middle C, for DAd. Middle C is C4.
Vs a stick on or under saddle pickup, I guess. I lose track of what I write sometimes. 
A 'dream dulcimer'? There is always seems to be a new one, or a return to a prior choice, as I change/adapt/grow/? [words don't fit]. McSpadden, Bear Meadow, Aolelus, Folkcraft [currently have], Blue Lion [ditto], and others, have been on my list during my relatively short association with dulcimers. Some have been much too costly, but not all. Some I made.
The thing is, once acquired it's no longer are a dream, it's a reality and I dream again.
Looking at my manual, player/recorder via 3.5mm stereo cable [probably male-male], nothing about a mic.
Just a note, MD's only, no guitars here.
I've got one. You will probably have to set it for yourself. If you use a mic/mic pickup be sure to set the knob to mic to start with. I don't use the other settings, tremelo, etc., just the 1st knob. Some of those selections are really sensitive and loud. The batteries seem to last a long time. In some ways I think I like my 15w Crate a bit better, larger speaker ad 2 inputs, but it's really heavy. Overall I like the Roland.
If you sing also I believe I would look at one with 2 inputs.
Steven Seifert's Join the Jam and Join the Jam, Harmony may work for you. There may be other books with both melody harmony parts that might work for noter/drone also.
One playing an octave higher [add 7] or lower [playing a bass] may work some also.
I usually use 26.5. I have a 22 1/4 that I play most of the time lately.
I've added frets to my dulcimers and some other folks dulcimers. So far the only difference I've noticed is in the appearance of the fret board, not in how they sound or look overall. All of them sound the same as they did before the added frets were installed. I don't play using a noter though and usully use hammer-on's instead of slides. So fo me adding frets is very much a personal preference. Besides you can always have some of each.😆
A heavier bass string, about .022-.023. Loosening the strings one tone [step] [ D3 to C3] really shouldn't get that bad, it's only about a half turn of a tuning machine unless you have a really light bass string.
http://www.strothers.com/string_choice.html
This can guide you in your string choices, it recommendations can be a bit light by a couple of sizes.
I build with 4 tuners, play using 3 strings. It allows double melody, 4 equidistant or single melody string setups.
I have a folkcraft with a 22" VSL which has the 1+, 6+,8+, and 13+. and have had no problem with the fret spacing at the high end. You just get used to it like any other spacing. I suggest you get the higher one if you are getting the 1+ and 6+, you may grow into playing at the higher frets over time. Keep in mind the music you play now and any future changes in your play lists and style of playing.
I don't think changing the string[s] a few .001's is going to make much of a difference in the sound, you're still at the same frequency. I suggest you consider trying strings/tuning it as a bass or baritone if the sound really bothers you. Playing a tune using the bass string or the middle string for the melody may give you some indication of what the sound could become.
I haven't tried it but 'sticky putty' may work.
Tape the noter to the splint? :)
Cut a dowel or wood pencil just short of the fretboard width and tape it between the legs of a standard capo. Run the tape parallel and between the strings.
MobileSheets Pro is for andeoid currently but is in the process of being ported to Win 10. Some folks are using an emulator with some success.
http://zubersoft.com/mobilesheets/forum/showthread.php?tid=3298&pid=16111#pid16111
These folks may be able to give you a better idea of what's available.
Sue Carpenters 'Patterns and Patchwork' up until I started using a tablet which contains books, smn, and audio files.
The middle string s/b 'd' not 'D'. The big 'D' is the one below middle C, the lower case is the one just above middle C. You would be looking at Gdg, not GDg. The easiest way to remember is do the strings in order, either up or down.The Strothers calculator usually is a bit on the light side.
The layout on the calculator popup is lower notes [larger strings] to the bottom and higher notes [small strings] to the top, all in the right order.
As far as the 'F' goes, try taping a 2" straightened paper clip or a toothpick in place as a temporary fret. If you have access to a micrometer/caliper, frets are about .040"-.043" high.
