Blue Lion Craftsmanship
Instruments- discuss specific features, luthiers, instrument problems & questions
About 2/3 way down.
Vs a stick on or under saddle pickup, I guess. I lose track of what I write sometimes.
A 'dream dulcimer'? There is always seems to be a new one, or a return to a prior choice, as I change/adapt/grow/? [words don't fit]. McSpadden, Bear Meadow, Aolelus, Folkcraft [currently have], Blue Lion [ditto], and others, have been on my list during my relatively short association with dulcimers. Some have been much too costly, but not all. Some I made.
The thing is, once acquired it's no longer are a dream, it's a reality and I dream again.
Looking at my manual, player/recorder via 3.5mm stereo cable [probably male-male], nothing about a mic.
Just a note, MD's only, no guitars here.
I've got one. You will probably have to set it for yourself. If you use a mic/mic pickup be sure to set the knob to mic to start with. I don't use the other settings, tremelo, etc., just the 1st knob. Some of those selections are really sensitive and loud. The batteries seem to last a long time. In some ways I think I like my 15w Crate a bit better, larger speaker ad 2 inputs, but it's really heavy. Overall I like the Roland.
If you sing also I believe I would look at one with 2 inputs.
It may help getting used to using your fingers by 'finger dancing' [fret notes using finger touches, not slides, on the melody string] instead of using a noter.
Keep in mind that no matter which style you use, you are always playing chords of some type as you strum across the 3 strings.
Hint, press down just enough to make contact with the fret.
Steven Seifert's Join the Jam and Join the Jam, Harmony may work for you. There may be other books with both melody harmony parts that might work for noter/drone also.
One playing an octave higher [add 7] or lower [playing a bass] may work some also.
I've added frets to my dulcimers and some other folks dulcimers. So far the only difference I've noticed is in the appearance of the fret board, not in how they sound or look overall. All of them sound the same as they did before the added frets were installed. I don't play using a noter though and usully use hammer-on's instead of slides. So fo me adding frets is very much a personal preference. Besides you can always have some of each.😆
Just a quick explanatory note to add to lisa-goliday's post. The B-minor [vi] chord, shown in her post is found [method described in my post below] using the notes of the D scale [key of D], with the B on the thumb, second note [D] on the middle finger and the third note [F#] of the triad on the little finger. So that B-Minor is BDF#. You always use the scale of the tune being played to figure out the chords [because those are the only notes you have to work with].
The easy way to determine the 3 major chords of many keys using the left hand and contiguous letters [DEFGA for example]. This method does not indicate #/b but can get you there. You will need to learn the notes in a key to get the most from this.
1 - Thumb represents the 1st chord, which is the name of the key and the chord; eg., D[F#A] or C[EG] or A[C#E]. This is also called 'I' when using the I-ii-iii-IV-V-vi-vii system. The bold caps are the major chords.
2 - Ring finger represents the 2nd chord; eg., G[BD] or F[AC] or D[F#A]. This is also called IV.
3 - The little finger represents the 3rd major chord eg., A[C#E] or G[BD] or E[G#B]. This is also called V.
These, and any other chord, consist of the same notes regardless of the key of the tune being played, a D chord is always DF#A, even if the tune is in the key of C or Bb.
Just as a note, using the thumb, middle finger and little finger to represent notes in the same manner will give the notes of any chord, minus sharps/flats
A heavier bass string, about .022-.023. Loosening the strings one tone [step] [ D3 to C3] really shouldn't get that bad, it's only about a half turn of a tuning machine unless you have a really light bass string.
This can guide you in your string choices, it recommendations can be a bit light by a couple of sizes.
I don't think it's memorizing tab [numbers], more like muscle memory associating how to reproduce the sound with the sound. That looking back and forth will change over time [practice].
I've also found that a fingering that works with one tune doesn't work well with another. This may be caused by chord order, rapid chord change, comfort, tune tempo/beat or combinations of these [or additional reasons].
I build with 4 tuners, play using 3 strings. It allows double melody, 4 equidistant or single melody string setups.
I have a folkcraft with a 22" VSL which has the 1+, 6+,8+, and 13+. and have had no problem with the fret spacing at the high end. You just get used to it like any other spacing. I suggest you get the higher one if you are getting the 1+ and 6+, you may grow into playing at the higher frets over time. Keep in mind the music you play now and any future changes in your play lists and style of playing.
I don't think changing the string[s] a few .001's is going to make much of a difference in the sound, you're still at the same frequency. I suggest you consider trying strings/tuning it as a bass or baritone if the sound really bothers you. Playing a tune using the bass string or the middle string for the melody may give you some indication of what the sound could become.
I haven't tried it but 'sticky putty' may work.
The MD originally only had frets [think staple like] under the melody string(s), the remaining two were drones. So tune melodies were normally played on the melody string(s) only, with the drones adding to the overall sound/mood. The fret spacing is/was designed so that the note step/half step configuration defining the Ionian mode, which is the same one used to describe or define a 'key', begins on the third fret. So when you want to play in a different key you need to change the tuning to place the key beginning note on the third fret. Then you tune the drones to compatible notes. The DAA tuning has three notes below the D to allow flexibility, eg., Amazing Grace in 'D' begins on 'A'.
Right an both. You can check it here [somewhere :)] http://www.daddario.com/DAstringtensionguide.Page?sid=b1db3253-32d3-427e-9a2c-e3d0a0c2a317
Larger string slots [the .052 may not fit in the hole of the tuner]. You may get some buzz if the strings are too close to the fretboard [the bass string primarily] and you pick/strum hard, larger strings seem to have a bit larger string movement [raise the bridge a bit], probably no other problems I can think of right now. The doubled melody may not work out overall, I only use a single. The string tension is going to remain about the same as the standard string tension. The sound should be ok, it has been on the ones I've converted.
MobileSheets Pro is for andeoid currently but is in the process of being ported to Win 10. Some folks are using an emulator with some success.
These folks may be able to give you a better idea of what's available.
It's been awhile and I wasn't paying particular attention to that. I was converting it to a bass at the time, which sounded fine. Maybe a phone call and a sound bite from them?
Blue Lion and Folkcraft make baritone MDs also.
Right, but it does give an idea as to what it would sound like. That's only difference between a 'standard' DAd and baritone. Finding one with a deeper body may give you a deeper tone. The deepest body I am aware of is the Stoneyend Parlor model. The maker may be willing to restring it to AEA. I've seen, and tried, them. His other models are pretty deep also.
The middle string s/b 'd' not 'D'. The big 'D' is the one below middle C, the lower case is the one just above middle C. You would be looking at Gdg, not GDg. The easiest way to remember is do the strings in order, either up or down.The Strothers calculator usually is a bit on the light side.
The layout on the calculator popup is lower notes [larger strings] to the bottom and higher notes [small strings] to the top, all in the right order.
As far as the 'F' goes, try taping a 2" straightened paper clip or a toothpick in place as a temporary fret. If you have access to a micrometer/caliper, frets are about .040"-.043" high.
You can use just about any tuning you want going down [looser], DGdd, DAcc [or is it DACC?], DAAA, and CGcc are used. You run a really good chance of realizing your fear going up [tighter] to GDgg with the strings on there now. you can checkhttp://www.strothers.com/string_choice.htm for string sizes.
It seems to me you're trying to put 10 pounds of apples and bananas in a 4 pound bag, trying to get gigs mixed with billing. I don't do gigs or try to arrange them but I would think arranging them is something like interviewing/applying for any kind of job. I suggest you develop a 'job description' you can use whenever wanted. A short 'demo cd' may also be relevant. Mary is trying to describe what she is doing in a few words, you want to get a job which will require more.
I make loop ends out of ball end strings this way - pushing the other end through but I'm always at a lost as to how to finish the strings off neatly. I will try Butch's way, over than under and under and under than back & forth till it breaks off.
Sounds good, thanks Dusty
Marg, when you say "finish the string off neatly," do you mean what to do with the excess string that sticks out of the tuners? Butch's method of twisting the strings until they break will indeed work, though sometimes you have to be patient. It might take several "back and forths" before you succeed. I have a metal string winder that includes a wire cutter on it. I just cut the excess string as close as I can and then push the end (not with a finger!) so that it bends back and can't cut you.
I usually bend the end 3/16 back 180* before making the 90* bend which puts the cut end back in the hole. I also try to leave about 1/16 (bent end) extended past the post surface and put 1 wrap on the open end of the post and the balance of the wraps on th inside ( nearest the knob).