Thank you for your help! I took off the strings and wiped her down with a damp rag last night. Already so much better.

Yes, I thought at least the nut was very thin, but also I can see that the bridge is odd. Looks and feels like plywood. I have room to widen the groove and install a regular bridge, but I don't think I have room to install a more sturdy nut. Maybe I can insert a sheet of brass of appropriate thickness? Any ideas?

Looking at the tuners, the pegs do not cross the entire valley within the neck, although there are small divots to support a longer peg. Should I replace the pegs??

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Yep -- NOT  baritone.   The overall length of a dulcimer is almost meaningless -- it's the VSL -- distance between the nut and bridge -- which matters.   

I second the Howard Feed N Wax.  Those tuner knobs are yellow because the tuners are very old, they were originally white.  The tuner bodies are corroded and need cleaning along with everything else.  

As Dusty sez, both the nut and bridge are "worryingly thin" (unless they are made of brass)  and need to be replaced with something besides credit card and doorskin plywood.    The gaps can be filled with Titebond (tm) glue which can be mixed with some fine dark-wood sawdust to make it a real filler.

A lot of questions there, ShirinSam!

Based on the string gauges, this is not a baritone. I would suggest a wound .024 on the bass, .014 for the middle, and .012 for the melody strings.  You could go up or down 1-2 on any of those and still be OK.

For the wood, I suggest a product called Howard Feed N Wax. You can get it at any home improvement store or Amazon.  Get the smallest bottle available.  A little goes a long way. You just put a dab on a clean rag and rub it in.  If the wood is really dry, it will absorb it. I usually put it on and then wipe any excess off 15 minutes later.  If you're interested in a demo, check out Bing Futch's video on dulcimer maintenance .

I do have a question about the nut. From the one picture, it looks extremely thin, as though someone replaced the original with a piece of a credit card or something. Is that possible?  If so, you might consider replacing it with something more durable.

Nice find! I'm sure your daughter will love it.

My daughter is studying Music Therapy in Fort Collins, CO and has been hinting that she'd love a dulcimer. I just purchased one that looks to be in good shape off eBay, an "Angell Dulcimer" made in 1992. Pictures below. (It looks as if another member posted pictures of this exact dulcimer a few months ago) The instrument needs a gentle cleaning/restringing, et cetera before I gift it to my daughter for Christmas.

It is 36" in length and looks as if it's made from plywood with a walnut stain. Even though the strings are oxidized and greasy, I tuned it up and played it al little -- nothing acts cracked or loose, so that's good news. Is this a baritone? How would I know -- is it the measurement from the bridge to the nut?

I did my best to measure the gauge of the strings already on it. it looks as if it's .023 brass wound, .016, .014,.014, but my caliper was having trouble holding a value -- so are those ,ore likely to be .012, .012, .016. 024? I won't need strings for a minute, but what gauges should I go for. My daughter would only be performing in small spaces, no more than a group of 5.

There is some buildup on the underside of the headstock and a few dark patches on the front. The tuner pegs were very yellow, and a damp rag wiped off what looked like nicotine residue. My current plan is to unstring, vacuum, wipe with a barely damp rag, and polish the frets. I would like a suggestion as to the best conditioner for the wood after it is cleaned and dry. 

One area that is a concern is the cute dogwood decorations. I had thought they were painted on, but actually they are decals. In the pictures below you can just barely make out the edges of the decal and see the shift in texture. I assume there's a spray lacquer of some sort over them, as I cannot feel the edges. But iI'm reluctant to use a heavy treatment on the wood because of them.

One picture shows a slight separation of one corner of the back from the headstock -- it seems secure. I might try filling the gap with a little something just so it doesn't snag on anything. 

Any tips? Insights? Warning or cautions?

Thanks,  Shirin

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