Beautiful fully chromatic Blue Lion AJ 5-string for sale...
FOR SALE:instruments/music items/CDs/Wanted to Buy...
Follow request is pending. Can't send a pm until approved.
Follow request is pending. Can't send a pm until approved.
I'm interested. PM pending.
I don't think it's memorizing tab [numbers], more like muscle memory associating how to reproduce the sound with the sound. That looking back and forth will change over time [practice].
I've also found that a fingering that works with one tune doesn't work well with another. This may be caused by chord order, rapid chord change, comfort, tune tempo/beat or combinations of these [or additional reasons].
I build with 4 tuners, play using 3 strings. It allows double melody, 4 equidistant or single melody string setups.
I have a folkcraft with a 22" VSL which has the 1+, 6+,8+, and 13+. and have had no problem with the fret spacing at the high end. You just get used to it like any other spacing. I suggest you get the higher one if you are getting the 1+ and 6+, you may grow into playing at the higher frets over time. Keep in mind the music you play now and any future changes in your play lists and style of playing.
I don't think changing the string[s] a few .001's is going to make much of a difference in the sound, you're still at the same frequency. I suggest you consider trying strings/tuning it as a bass or baritone if the sound really bothers you. Playing a tune using the bass string or the middle string for the melody may give you some indication of what the sound could become.
I haven't tried it but 'sticky putty' may work.
The MD originally only had frets [think staple like] under the melody string(s), the remaining two were drones. So tune melodies were normally played on the melody string(s) only, with the drones adding to the overall sound/mood. The fret spacing is/was designed so that the note step/half step configuration defining the Ionian mode, which is the same one used to describe or define a 'key', begins on the third fret. So when you want to play in a different key you need to change the tuning to place the key beginning note on the third fret. Then you tune the drones to compatible notes. The DAA tuning has three notes below the D to allow flexibility, eg., Amazing Grace in 'D' begins on 'A'.
Right an both. You can check it here [somewhere :)] http://www.daddario.com/DAstringtensionguide.Page?sid=b1db3253-32d3-427e-9a2c-e3d0a0c2a317
Larger string slots [the .052 may not fit in the hole of the tuner]. You may get some buzz if the strings are too close to the fretboard [the bass string primarily] and you pick/strum hard, larger strings seem to have a bit larger string movement [raise the bridge a bit], probably no other problems I can think of right now. The doubled melody may not work out overall, I only use a single. The string tension is going to remain about the same as the standard string tension. The sound should be ok, it has been on the ones I've converted.
MobileSheets Pro is for andeoid currently but is in the process of being ported to Win 10. Some folks are using an emulator with some success.
These folks may be able to give you a better idea of what's available.
It's been awhile and I wasn't paying particular attention to that. I was converting it to a bass at the time, which sounded fine. Maybe a phone call and a sound bite from them?
Blue Lion and Folkcraft make baritone MDs also.
Right, but it does give an idea as to what it would sound like. That's only difference between a 'standard' DAd and baritone. Finding one with a deeper body may give you a deeper tone. The deepest body I am aware of is the Stoneyend Parlor model. The maker may be willing to restring it to AEA. I've seen, and tried, them. His other models are pretty deep also.
The middle string s/b 'd' not 'D'. The big 'D' is the one below middle C, the lower case is the one just above middle C. You would be looking at Gdg, not GDg. The easiest way to remember is do the strings in order, either up or down.The Strothers calculator usually is a bit on the light side.
The layout on the calculator popup is lower notes [larger strings] to the bottom and higher notes [small strings] to the top, all in the right order.
As far as the 'F' goes, try taping a 2" straightened paper clip or a toothpick in place as a temporary fret. If you have access to a micrometer/caliper, frets are about .040"-.043" high.
You can use just about any tuning you want going down [looser], DGdd, DAcc [or is it DACC?], DAAA, and CGcc are used. You run a really good chance of realizing your fear going up [tighter] to GDgg with the strings on there now. you can checkhttp://www.strothers.com/string_choice.htm for string sizes.
It seems to me you're trying to put 10 pounds of apples and bananas in a 4 pound bag, trying to get gigs mixed with billing. I don't do gigs or try to arrange them but I would think arranging them is something like interviewing/applying for any kind of job. I suggest you develop a 'job description' you can use whenever wanted. A short 'demo cd' may also be relevant. Mary is trying to describe what she is doing in a few words, you want to get a job which will require more.
I make loop ends out of ball end strings this way - pushing the other end through but I'm always at a lost as to how to finish the strings off neatly. I will try Butch's way, over than under and under and under than back & forth till it breaks off.
Sounds good, thanks Dusty
Marg, when you say "finish the string off neatly," do you mean what to do with the excess string that sticks out of the tuners? Butch's method of twisting the strings until they break will indeed work, though sometimes you have to be patient. It might take several "back and forths" before you succeed. I have a metal string winder that includes a wire cutter on it. I just cut the excess string as close as I can and then push the end (not with a finger!) so that it bends back and can't cut you.
I usually bend the end 3/16 back 180* before making the 90* bend which puts the cut end back in the hole. I also try to leave about 1/16 (bent end) extended past the post surface and put 1 wrap on the open end of the post and the balance of the wraps on th inside ( nearest the knob).
The ball is a tube, it can be crushed. Pinch it with pliers or vicegrips across the diameter and break it, the pieces are then fairly easy to remove. Don't pinch the string though, just grab a side, you may have to try several times.