Forum Activity for @dusty

Wait, we switched from cassettes to CDs? When?

CDs are already obsolete now since everything is just 1s and 0s.

If you want to see a demonstration of how to use a capo, check out this Bing Futch video:

That's all too funny. You can tune a piano but you can't tunafish.

And don't forget about all the different kinds of dulcimers there are: mountain dulcimers, lap dulcimers, fretted dulcimers, etc. Most of us just want to find one instrument we can play OK. And what in the world is an Indian walking cane and what does it have to do with dulcimers?

Notice the picking comes first. Then the jamming. You have to get the berries off the vine before you can cook 'em up with sugar.

Ellen, when we're done laughing at your humor, some of us will take off our fingerpicks (the ones that aren't flat) and type answers to any real questions you have. But if you just want to keep making us laugh, we're OK with that, too.

Virginia, I've seen the picture of you surrounded by all your instruments. A stand won't be enough. You need a separate apartment.

That's kind of you to share. I haven't tried to play it yet, but it looks like there are lots of arpeggios involved.

Thanks so much.

William,

First of all, in common parlance, what you are calling the "tenor" string is referred to simply as the middle string. "Tenor" makes sense to me, but that is not common practice.

Second, strumming in will accent the melody string only if your strum moves downward rather than upward. It may be that you are too new at playing to be able to fully control your strums in this way, but in the same way that Ken described how to strum out in such a way as to de-emphasize the bass, you can do the same thing strumming inward. In other words, strumming inward per se does not stress the melody notes. It is your specific method of strumming inward, and as you progress you will gain greater ability to alter your strumming in nuanced ways.

Third, notice that you refer to "principle" strum. Although some folks only strum in one direction, most players eventually begin strumming in both directions. The key is to keep a steady strum, with your principle strum occurring on the down beats and your other strum occurring on the up beats. So if your principle strum is in, the as you count 1-&-2-&-3-&-4-& you will strum in on the numbers and out on the &s. If your principle strum is out (as is mine) then you reverse that, and you strum out on the numbers and in on the &s. But melodies are not limited to down beats, so as you begin playing more and more advanced melodies, you will have to play melody notes when not strumming in the direction of your principle strum.

In short, the long-term solution to your problem cannot simply be to strum in instead of out. You will eventually develop the technique to emphaize certain strings in either direction. Admittedly, de-emphasizing the middle string is a problem.

How new are the strings? I would suggest putting all new strings on and getting slightly heavier melody strings and bass strings. Why not try .024 on the bass and .012 on the other strings. That change alone will emphaize the bass and melody strings more than they are now inyour current set-up. And if the strings are old, they might indeed have aged differently. Wound strings can sometimes go dead or flat faster than unwound strings, and since you finger the melody strings, the oil from your skin might have encouraged the melody strings to age faster than the middle string which remains untouched. Both new strings and changing the gauges might help with the problem you have.

Finally, if changing string gauges does not help, try changing the tuning a tiny little bit. Every dulcimer has a tone that finds extra responsiveness in the wood. Some players and luthiers sing into the sound holes of their instruments to find what that tone is and then they tune accordingly. It is possible that the A note of your middle string is simply more resonant in your dulcimer than other notes. What if you tuned CGG instead of DAA? You will still be able to play all the same songs in all the same fingerings that you've already learned, but it's possible that getting the middle string off the A note will bring it back in line with the volume and sustain of the other strings.

Good luck. And let us know how things go.

William, Ken has given you good advice about how to alter your strumming to either stress the melody strings more than the drone strings. You may not be able to master strumming technique right away, but keep working at it.

You should also not be afraid to change string gauges as you suggest. Although you might not want to go smaller than .020 on the bass string, especially if you are tuning to DAA, you might as well try .012 on the melody strings. That will increase the volume of the melody string a little bit.

I can't believe it's been three years. Wow. Rod was the first one to welcome me to FOTMD. He was a generous and kind soul. One reason I don't join the dulcimer club on Paltalk much anymore is because his absence there--even after three years--is so palpable it makes me sad.

I like that image of him teaching angels to play the dulcimer.

Ellen, I was just about to suggest the same thing as Randy. You will get a cleaner sound if you use one melody string. Try it and see if the dulcimer sounds better to you.

Garland, thanks so much for the advice. I just checked out weebly and it appears to work about the same as webs.com, which I am using now (see the link in my original post). It is certainly easy. The problem for me, though, is that while these web hosting sites allow the quick setup of a site, the prefabbed templates also limit what you can do and maybe I'm too much of a control freak. I have a vision of what I want a page to look like and get frustrated if I can't get exactly that. I think I am more likely to find another web hosting site that supports Wordpress. A couple are specifically designed for Wordpress and have one-click installs. When things slow down at work (erhaps over the holidays) I'll probably junk the website I just set up a couple of days ago, register my domain name, and set something up from scratch, probably using WordPress.

Thanks for your suggestions. And Byron, I will definitely check out Luna Pages. How is their customer support?

Thanks, Lois. I guess it's about time I figured this stuff out, huh? If I do go the Wordpress route, I will certainly choose a host that is designed for WordPress so that I get the extra support. We'll see.

Wow, Kevin Y., thanks for all those links. That will save me a lot of time. The more I ponder this the more I think I am going to use wordpress and take control of the whole process rather than continue with the pre-fabbed stuff that is quick and easy but not necessarily what I am looking for. Plus, I should probably learn moremore web designfor work, so I can sort of justify whatever time it takes. I may indeed contact you with questions down the line!

Kevin M., thanks for the encouragement. I've found it pretty easy to just plug content into the templates at webs.com but I end up with pages that don't look exactly the way I want them to. I think I'm going to abandon that site you were looking at and start over. Once I do that we could definitely link between our sites. The main purpose of the River City Dulcimers site is for our local group to have a resource to find tablature, information on our meetings, and so forth, but I still find myself fielding questions about luthiers and instructional materials, so even our local group would benefit from links to people like you.

Thanks, Kevin and Tom.

Kevin, the link I provide above is to the beginnings of a website on webs.com. I can see why people would like it. My only objection is that I'm limited to certain templates that can't be altered. And I am unsure if I want to continue with them or switch. It's good to know their customer support is good.

Tom, thanks for the encouragement. I do use pieces of HTML coding in courses that I design, so I'm not afraid of it, but starting from scratch still seems a bit much. It's good to know it isn't that hard. I could probably get a free web desing class where I teach if I really wanted to put that much time into it.

Strumelia, that seems like good advice. The fact is that what I want to do with the website is pretty simple, but that does not mean I'm happy with the generic design elements of these prefabbed websites.

I took a look both at the website you and Brian did and the wordpress site, and it looks like it might be a good plan. At this point I'm leaning to wordpress and one of the web hosts that are designed specifically to integrate with it.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Thanks, Kevin. That is helpful information about the <header> section. The link above is to a webs.com site, which I used only because I was able to give it a try without paying anything. Now that I want to register a domain name and develop a more permanent website, I am not sure webs.com is what I want. Among other things, it does not let you code in HTML on your own. I guess I'm still searching for a web host.

I do indeed do some instructional design, but I am not an instructional designer. I teach online classes, and over the last few years I've found it easier to design my own courses than try to give the "content" to someone else and have them do it. For similar reasons, although I would love to have one of your students design a website for me, I really need to learn to do it myself. In the past we've had people who found a really nifty way to present some content in a course, but then 10 months or a year later we want to make some changes only to find that individual has moved to a different job and no one knows what they did.

Anyway, thanks for your response. I may have some specific questions for you as I get more into this.

Thanks, Bobby. You confirm that webs.com is a reasonable site. At least they let you built a website before you decide if you want to upgrade and start paying. The other cheap web hosting sites out there want you to pay upfront before you start building a website.

I hadn't explored the podcast app, but I'll look into it. I did add an audio file to the home page.

I guess what I find frustrating is that you have to choose a backdrop for every page based on the pre-fabricated templates. I would like one template that is just a blank page so that I can customize that backdrop. I did make myself a banner. It is in .jpg formate and I can resize it to any size. But I can't seem to make that banner part of the backdrop of the pages. I am stuck with webs.com templates.

One final question for you: have you ever used customer service at webs.com? I am curious how responsive they are on the phone or through text messaging or whatever.

Hey folks, I seek advice about how to start a website.

I want to find acheap web hosting service that will allow me set up a basic website for my local dulcimer group so I can keep a page of tab for the songs we play, a list of local events, some pictures, and so forth.

I started using one free web service that offers dozens of basic templates for the website, but I really want more flexibility. I don't know HTML code, but I do design online courses, so I have some experience with this stuff. The problem is that I have a vision of what I want for each page and am frustrated stuck in the pre-fab templates the web service offers. I would much prefer something with blank pages that allows me to just move items (pictures, text, audio files, etc) to where I want them and resize them at will.

For example, this is what I have so far: http://rivercitydulcimers.webs.com/ . But I want to be able to put my banner (that image with the Sacramento River and skyline with the words overlaid) on the top with the tabs for the different pages underneath that, as well as customize the rest of the page. This free web service has me locked in to one prefabbed format or another. It seems to me that what I seek is pretty unsophisticated and basic.

Before I pay to register a domain name and to get some kind of medium amount of customer service, I want to make sure I have a web host that will let me do what I want.

Any advice you can offer would be most appreciated.

Yum. Blue Lion. Yum. Inlay. Yum. Rosewood. Yum.

Stephanie Stuckwisch said:

I bought my dream dulcimer a few years ago - Blue lion rosewood hourglass w /custom inlay.

Why do you ask, Mike? Are you going to surprise me with a Christmas present this year?

A chorus of dulcimers?

Oh darlin' you can't love one

Darlin' you can't love one

You can't love one and have any fun

Oh darlin' you can't love one

Darlin' you can't love two . . .

Louis, that chair certainly looks comfortable, but it might be more conducive to napping than playing the dulcimer.Just looking at it makesme want to curlupandcatch up on sleep.

Louis Hopkins said:

Hi I have just ordered one of these but I don't know if the same thing is available in the USA but I think it would be ideal for someone with a bad back it folds up and comes with a bag.

Mike, the bottom chair in Strumelia's post is called the quick-e-seat and it's made by GCI Outdoor. It can be bought,as Cheryl explains,through REI, Amazon, orevenMike Clemmer, who calls it best ever pickin' chair or something like that. I think it is made for birders or outdoor artists. There is a shoulder strap which also folds the chair up automatically when you lift it. Obviously, it has no arms, so you have room for your instrument. And it has a little bag probably intended to hold a beer, but it works just as well for a tuner, picks, a capo, or whatever you need. The seat of the chair is in the shape of a triangle, with one point intended to go between your legs. It is not as uncomfortable as it sounds, and you want your legs apart when playing the dulcimer anyway. The chair is very light, very portable and very convenient. It is not super comfortable, so you'll want to stand up from time to time and get the blood flowing through your legs again. I have one and take it everywhere.

Wow, that tenor guitulcimer sounds great, Robin. It has a really nice, warm sound. And your playing is just precious. You display such patience with that slow rolling melody. Nice work!

Dennis, almost all luthiers will install a pickup if you request it. I have a MMD with an internal pickup and will probably have my Blue Lion retrofitted with one as well.

I don't think you should buy a dulcimer simply for the pickup. Find the dulcimer that most meats your needs or whose sound you prefer and have a pickup installed in it.

Marg, many dulcimers are made with a nut and a bridge that can be configured for two different arrangements of strings. One is the standard three-course instrument with a double melody string. The other is four equidistant strings. I assume that is what you are talking about.

marg said:

Looking close up at the hourglass, it looks to have slits in the fretboard end for several strings . Could you put 5 or 6 strings on this dulcimer?

Larry, for $300 you can get a very nice instrument. That Cripple Creek could be good, but it might also have problems similar to those of recent instruments discussed in the forums I link to above. And as you can see, some of those were utterly unplayable.

Since the ad is on Craig's list, it is obviously local, and you can see and play the dulcimer before buying it. If you are really interested, take an electronic tuner with you when you go to see it. Tune it up and play a little bit. Is the action reasonable? Action refers to how high off the fretboard the strings are. If the action is too low, the strings will likely buzz. If it is too high, it will be hard to finger the strings. Additionally, high action might also lead to faulty intonation. Use your tuner to check each fret on each string as you move up the fretboard. Do the notes stay in tune or do they get sharp or flat as you move up the fretboard? Some of the other Cripple Creek dulciemrs described in those other discussions had bad intonation, perhaps due to faulty fret positioning. But that basically makes them unplayable. As you play,doesthe instrument stay in tuneor lose itstuning repeatedly? If the instrument has not been played recently and if the strings are old, it might have trouble staying in tune anyway, but if it seems to need constant retuning, that could be a sign of faulty tuning pegs.

Again, let me reiterate that $300 is a fair amount for a used instrument. In fact,I've paid that price for a used Blue Lion and also a used Laurel Mountain, both of which are probably better instruments than the Cripple Creek.I would advise definite caution here.There are fine new dulcimers that you can buy in the $300 range. For example, FOTMD member David Lynch sells several model dulcimers for $325 and a student model for $125. I have one of the student models which I use when I travel on the east coast. It is a wonderful instrument. I can only imagine how nice David's higher end instruments are. Check out his website here . You might also keep an eye on the For Sale Forum here at FOTMD. Periodically instrument come available there that might be better risks than the Cripple Creek. Or you might start a discussion asking about recommendations for dulcimers in the $300 range. A bunch of folks will probably recommend luthiers they know and trust.

Before making a purchase, take a look at this discussion from some time ago. And in there I link to another discussion from a few years earlier.

While I think Ken is correct that in general Cripple Creek dulcimers were quality instruments for some time, there have been difficulties going back further than the 8 months or so he recalls.

Garland, regardless of what gauge strings you use, please note Dana's original post. There is no difference between dulcimer strings and guitar strings. You can just go into any local music store and ask for acoustic guitar strings. There is no need to buy complete sets and no need to buy anything specifically labeled "dulcimer strings."

That instrument's no good. You should send it to me.

Not quite, Joe. I bought my Eede Beede directly from David. I think you might have bought a Folkroots Travel dulcimer from me and then went searching for a capo for it. Am I right about that?

David Beede ships his octave dulcimers with .008 for the melody, .010 for the middle, and a wound .011 for the bass.

It might be hard to find a wound string of that size. My local acoustic instrument shop had to special order them for me.

However, the reason not to try one would be the slot in the bridge and nut. If the slot is cut for a regular steel string, then the wound string might not fit in it very well. And if it does make its way into the slot, it might stretch it, potentially ruining it for regular strings. I would say be careful.

Steven, there are many affordable options for entry-level dulcimers. Very good cardboard dulcimers are sold new for as little as $60. I recently played one made by Folkcraft and it sounded remarkably good. There are also several luthiers who make student dulcimers for under $200.

I would personally recommend a student dulcimer by David "Harpmaker" Lynch of Sweet Woods Instruments. You can find his website here . He sells a student dulcimer for $125. David is also a member here at FOTMD so you can contact him directly without leaving this website.

I had heard other players recommend his student dulcimer and comment that it plays as well and sounds as nice as dulcimers costing well over three times the price. I just bought one for myself last month. I wanted an affordable instrument to play on the east coast since I spend a few weeks every summer and a few weeks over the holidays there every year. And I'll be honest that it was hard for me to leave it behind when I came back home. The dulcimer is made of birch ply, I believe, which helps keep costs down. And David knows what he is doing. The intonation is excellent and the sound surprisinglyrich. It seems to play just as well for soft, fingerstyle play and for louder strumming with a flatpick.

If you get a cardboard dulcimer or most other student models and your wife decides that she does enjoy playing and wants to keep doing it, you will have to upgrade and get a nicer dulcimer. With David's student model, she may want to upgrade, but she won't have to. It would be a satisfying instrument for years. I expect to keep mine. And if you do decide to upgrade, David has some kind of trade-in policy as well.

Wow, Robin. That is a haunting version of the song. It's putting shivers up my spine. Your commandand ability to get nuanced sound out of the noter is just remarkable.

I've heard Willie do a couple of versions, but I would say they were mostly in the traditional major key with a couple of minor chords thrown in. I think I don't know the version you are referring to.

Here is a minor version of the song by the Blind Boys of Alabama to the tune we usually associate with House of the Rising Son:

Wout, I already play a dulcimer with a 1+ and 6+ fret as well as the octave equivalents of that. I fear that over time I will add more extra frets as I find a reason for the 4+ and so forth. But I like the simplicity of the diatonic fretboard and the more I thought about those harp levers the more I began wondering about something like that for a dulcimer.

Wout Blommers said:

Well, wouldn't the easiest way be a talk with Steve Eulberg about a chromatic dulcimer?

I have to admit that although I started this thread, I was probably ill equipped to do so since I don't build instruments and really don't even have the vocabulary to refer to parts of a harp accurately.

But you guys have been great in helping me think through this and even offering new and creative ideas.

David: I should have thought to just ask you about this stuff in the beginning. Those levers I saw on two small harps that basically just pushed on the strings to raise the pitch on the other side of a pin or something acting like a bridge might have been made by whoever made the harps. All those anyone else or I have found online seem to work like those you describe. I am now convinced those premade levers that reduce the VSL would not work on the dulcimer.

Bobby: I guess I did misunderstand you, and maybe that has to do with my limited understanding of modes. I had thought you imagined a lever (or maybe to) so that you could toggle back and forth between a DAd tuning and a DAC tuning. You could then play a medley of say "Red-Haired Boy" and "Gilderoy," which is basically the same tune but out of a minor mode without retuning.

Wout: I think you are right that nothing we could rig up would allow the pitch of a string to change as much as a fourth. But my original idea was not to replace tuning altogether but either to allow a momentary change in pitch to be a able to catch an accidentalor to allow a change from a D tuning to a C tuning. I play a lot in multi-instrument jams and out of a D tuning I can play in the key of G or use a capo to get the keys of G and A. But the other common key is C, and I have to retune all three strings for that. There isn't always time and I sometimes miss the first verse or so of the next song.

Skip, the whammy bar idea was just my way of thinking about how you might activate something to change the tuning of a string while you were playing. I imaged using the whammy not really to hear the bend, but to get from one extreme to another, with those extremes representing a 1/2 note or perhaps a whole note. I don't even know how much a normal whammy bar adjusts the pitch anyway. I was just trying to envisiona devise as simple to use as the button on chromatic harmonicas that shifts the pitch a half note.

Thanks again, everyone, for chiming in even if to help me realize what's not possible.

And yes, for those of you suggesting the hipshottuners, those look a lotmore promising!

Remember that the ones I saw this morning were onharps, so perhaps bridge is not the right words. In one case the leversbasically acted to pushon the string on the non-vibrating side of a metal post around which the stringbent just before it hit the pin, thus tightening the string. They did not seem to be adjustable, but they were not all identical, meaning there were different size levers for different strings. Another type hadits own horizontal metal bar on the lever itself. When the lever was engaged,it pushed on the string just past that metal bar, again tightening the string. Those,too, did not seem to be adjustablebut were different sizes.Obviously, the degree of precision here is pretty high. My cousin's harp--which I only saw one inebriated evening and did not examine closely since the idea had not yet occured to me touse these contraptions on another instrument--has levers that can be adjusted for each string.They may indeed be the kind that shorten the VSL.

For the record, I did a quick search online too, and the only prefabricated levers I could find that were sold independly of a harp were intended to change the VSL, too. That might be what my cousin has and as you've all pointed out, they would not work on a fretted instrument.

If it would be feasible at all to design a lever for use on the dulcimer, it would obviously involve a lot of work to get it to fit exactly right. My uncle makes autoharps (and puts fine tuners on those) and perhaps I'll ask him if it would be possible todesign something. Maybe the only reasonable use would be as Bobby said to change the tuning of the melody string so you could switch modes in the middle of a tune or medley. But I still like the idea of something resembling a whammy bar that could alter a string by a 1/2 note and then drop it back down. I guess I'll keep dreaming.

Ivan, tune a string to a note. Any note. Now tune it a 1/2 note higher. That is all a lever does.

It might be that in the picture I posted the VSL appears to change. But on one harp I looked at this morning the levers were situated in between the bridge and the pin, so only the tension of the string is changed, not its vibrating length. In the other example I saw, the lever was itself a bridge. Each string went over a small horizontal pin, and it stopped vibrating there. The lever pushed a small piece of metal onto the string just after that pin, increasing the tension of the string. But the pin itself did not move, so the VSL did not change.

Ken is correct that the levers work essentially in the same way as fine tuners. Violin players do not have to change where they finger a note because they used the fine tuners. The tuners--like the levers--are situated on part of the string that does not vibrate.

There may be different models of levers that work in different ways. Maybe some really do change the VSL, and maybe that change in VSL would be enough to throw the fret pattern out of whack. I don't know. But there are at least a couple of examples of levers that don't alter the VSL at all.

I honestly think people are over-thinking the theoretical aspects of this issue.

The spacing of frets is determined both by the VSL and by the gauge of the string. That is why the best instruments have fully compensated fretboards. So obviously, anything you do to change the pitch of a string will alter slightly where the ideal frets would be. But I think a half tone would not be noticeable any more than switching from 12 to 14 gauge strings would be.

And on the harps I've seen, the VSL does not change. What changes is the tension of the string, for the lever sits in between the bridge and the zither pins and simply presses on the string enough to increase the pitch by exactly a half tone.

Yes, John, one of the ways I imaged using this would be toflip a lever while playing. I got the idea watching my cousing play the harp. She was running up the strings for an arpeggio but flipped the lever on one string for one note and then immediately after she played it, she flipped it back.

Could something like that work on the dulcimer? I don't know. That's one reason I posted this question. But those tremolo bars that electric guitarists use made me think it might be possible to rig something up.