If it were my dulcimer, I would just clean it up and string it with three strings rather than six. As long as the fret board is not warped, it should be playable. I might go a little lighter on the string gauges as well. 

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

As Dwain says, now that we know why that gap is there at the tail and those arches between the rest of the fretboard and the top, do not fill any of those gaps,   Give it a gentle cleaning and a new set of strings, and start playing.   Dwain suggests leaving the string pins where they are, I suggest moving hem onto the tailblock. Your choice.

On closer examination it seems you are most probably correct! And if so, closing that gap would be disastrous for the top.

And thus the pins should remain where they are too.

@nate there are two strings still on this dulcimer that I assume are between 50 and 60 years old but I did tighten them up a tiny bit and “played” the dulcimer and it actually had a really nice tone-one of the reasons I am now becoming excited to get this dulcimer back in working order.

I gather that my best course is to have a piece of appropriate wood glued into the gap and then put the screws for the strings on the base part.

I also noticed that the 'f holes' that run along the edges of the fingerboard terminate at big round holes on the side pieces. Does anyone know anything about this?
I hadnt heard of this 'floating bridge' concept until just now. I was able to find this older FOTMD post about a 'howie mitchell floating bridge' 
https://fotmd.com/forums/forum/instruments-discuss-specific-features-luthiers-instrument-problems-questions/35304/dulcimer-queries


So now I understand a bit better what I'm looking at with this dulcimer, and I am very curious if it's better. I have recently been really interested in how anchoring the strings in different ways and places affects tone. 

@nate the gap is not rough. I need to give this poor baby a good cleaning. Did you check out the last three closeup photos I sent? Also if you look at the photo of the whole top attached to my initial post you can see little scroll cutouts on either side of the tail-there has been no separation of the tail at those spots. 

I am a bit confused. Visually, to me the gap between the tailpiece and the box looks very jagged and rough, like when glued surfaces get pulled apart. It also looks like there is some residual glue visible in the pictures, but that might just be dust and lighting. There is a chewed up little ding on the corner where I assumed they would connect, which I assumed is what split them.

Thank you all so much for helping me. I’m going to try to find a luthier in my area-I don’t think I can find one with loads of dulcimer experience but at a minimum maybe I can find someone to replace the nut and maybe take care of the strings at the tail. Thank you all again for your insights.

You're right.  That is a Howie Mitchell "floating tail" gap and it is supposed to be there.  Combined with that 'severely' arched fretboard the intent is to free the soundboard and allow it to vibrate freely.  Many builders arch the fretboard for both that and aesthetic reasons.

That said, moving the string pins down onto the tailblock is still not a bad idea, as doing so will still prevent the fretboard from potentially pulling up.  

One last close up of the tail from the side.

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I feel like an idiot. I realize now that that gap at the bottom is supposed to be there. The entire fret board is raised up and is attached to the body in four places. I’ve attached a  photo of the side view near the tail. That gap is supposed to be there. I don’t think it would do to move those pins to the bottom piece of the tail.

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The crucial thing is whether the fretboard's upper surface curves up. There should be a very slight concave 'dish' to reduce string's buzzing against frets.

@ken-longfield

I’m afraid you may be right. I tried to gently press the fretboard down and there were a lot of creaking noises. Plus, when I look at the fretboard from the bottom at eye level I can see that it curves upward at the bottom slightly. I don’t know if either of these things necessarily means that it is warped.

@Nate, yes that is the general idea. But those thin pins would themselves be under severe bending tension. I would recommend 1/8" brass rod rather than the brads. And mount them with only about 1/8" showing above the surface at about -15° from horizontal, so the strings tend to seat at the pins' base rather than at their ends.

If one wants to accommodate both loop end and ball-end strings, one end of the brass rods can be turned (or filed) down to a diameter to fit inside the strings' ball-end. That is the arrangement for my Standard Series dulcimers.

Has anyone else considered that the peg head may have been broken, smoothed a little bit and refinished? Also, did you check to see if the fret board is straight and level? The force of six strings tuned to pitch could have warped it. Just a couple of thoughts from looking at the photos.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

The more I look at it the more I wonder if the dulcimer was intended to be hung on a rod. The headstock almost resembles a clothes hanger hook. I doubt well ever know, but I do like the idea of the builder having rows of their creations across a wall.

@ken-hulme I cant help but wonder what the intention was, since I'd Imagine it took some effort to do. Then again, maybe the piece of wood that became the headstock was originally cut for something else, and the maker repurposed it. Ive done that with furniture pieces a couple times with some strange looks. 
@dwain-wilder Am I understanding you correctly that you are saying the string pins should be mounted to the tailpiece like in this drawing, so to not apply upward force to the break?

thanks,
Nate

Interesting notes from Ken, Strumelia and Nate. Definitely a legacy dulcimer, worth some work.

A further improvement at the tailblock would be to move the string pins down, below the break. Where they are now, the string tension tends to re-open the break rather than reinforce the repair.

AFAIK,  that tuning head shape is unique to this dulcimer.  A one-off design by the builder, probably.  In those days a strap would often be tied at the head end, with a loop over the tail button for "quick release". 

I find the headstock really interesting. The shape of the cutout seems very specific, as if it was for a purpose. I cant imagine it would be much good for hanging the dulcimer as the notch seems really shallow. Maybe it was for hanging one specifically on a shaker peg or something like that? Also, I see a knob at the bottom for a strap, but none at the top. Anyone have any ideas? Is that type of cutout on other dulcimers as well?

I agree with Ken and Dwain that this looks to be more likely from the 1960s or early 70s. Definitely not from the 1940s.

It's a cool dulcimer!- and seems like it'd be worth restoring.

Also, I wanted to add that the odd shape head makes a great “handle” for carrying the dulcimer-its kind of a neat design feature.

Wow! Thanks for the rapid response! I’m not sure whether I have the skills required for these repairs so I might try to find a luthier in my area. I don’t have a huge investment in this so I don’t mind spending more to have a working instrument.

I’ve attached photos of the head and pegs from the top.

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Dwain has given you good advice on fixing the 'cut-away' tail which, if I remember correctly, was a Howie Mitchell design concept from the 60s Revival era. 

That, those tuners, plus the 6+ and 13+ fret layout makes me think that this is a 1960s dulcimer, or at least influenced by Howie Mitchell's book called The Mountain Dulcimer:  How To Make It and Play It, after a fashion.  The instrument with its under curled tuning head certainly in an interesting build -- probably a one-off which would explain no builder's label.

You might begin by applying a clamp to the tailpiece and drawing it down to where it almost touches the bottom of the tailblock. The easing a folded length of 100g sandpaper and clamping just enough to enable the paper to be drawn back and forth, getting some clean wood. Then you can relax the clamp, brush in some glue and re-clamp to fully join the break.

That break was likely caused by the design feature of a cut-away top along the sides of the last few inches of the fretboard, intended to increase the volume perhaps.

Further fasten that break by drilling a tapered hole for a screw long enough to engage about an inch of the bottom half of the tailblock break. Tapered screw drills can be purchased at good hardware stores. Your photos don't show any sense of the actual size of things, but a #8x1-1/2" screw might be about right.

Interesting design, otherwise! Especially the peghead. A top view of that pegbox might disclose another place where some preventive re-design would help, as it looks like the slot for the interior of the pegbox might extend right to the end of the peghead, in the view you supply!

I can’t resist a homeless dulcimer regardless of condition. As you can see this one’s a little rough. The nut is broken and the neck is lifted off the body down at the bottom. I bought it because the price was right and I could hang it on the wall if I couldn’t get it restored to usable condition. The tag on it said it was from the 1940’s. I’ve not been able to find a photo another with this style head so I can’t verify its age. I’ve looked high and low for some kind of label or makers mark but no luck. I’m hoping someone here will have some insight. Thanks for your kind attention.

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