Ok, for those of you who have purchased the Bm flute, does it work well with dulcimer? I'm thinking about the White Tail Hawk from High Spirits. It sounds like the best choice for playing with a dulcimer playing in the key of D.
http://highspirits.com/collections/flutes-in-the-key-of-b/products/white-tail-hawk-high-b-walnut
To add to to the above: Strings come either ball-end (with the little brass piece the end of the string is wrapped around) or looped end, no brass piece. Your dulcimer will take either style. If you have a looped end string, just slide the loop over the little pin and tighten it up.
I suspect you're tightening the string too tight, if you have broken two strings already. That bass string is pretty loose when tuned properly.
Are you saying you broke the hitch pin that goes into the wood or that you lost the small brass piece in side the loop? If its the pin that has broken off a good music shop with a guitar repair guy can fix that, if its the brass piece in the string, ball end strings come with them.......no problem there.
Thanks Lexie, and all who have contributed to this discussion. I have enjoyed listening and learning from your experiences.
I got my tabor drum today (so fast!) and yes it is perfect! Thank you Terry for advising me to get the smaller 9" one...it's just right for me and has a wonderful old tone, though naturally not as deep a tone as Terry's 12" drum.
I padded the end of the stick a little to mellow it when playing in the house. (!)
It's a quality drum, two sided, and I'd recommend it to anyone wanting a drum for multi purposes.
I'm really excited.... but now my practice sessions become more challenging still... pipe AND tabor simultaneously... yikes! 
Terry says:
I'm here to tell someone out there, if you are a little bored, and seeking a new challenge, another adventure, then Pipe and Tabor might just fill this need.
Agreed...and it's FUN! -but be forewarned, it's a pretty major learning curve, especially if you've never played a flute or whistle before. 
Sense I play only noter/drone and have 3 dulcimers based on Thomas, Jefferies and now Prichard I like playing with 3 strings because of the balance of tone. However, I do play sometimes with 4 strings on my Jefferies, it is also set up for equidistant, but I did not enjoy the sound as much. I notice when I play with double melody I keep my noter light on the strings as to not separate them.
I now am playing all three of my dulcimers with 3 strings, I just love that ole' time silvery sound and the simplicity of playing.
This has been an interesting thred, but I agree you need to enjoy playing and so choose your way which works for your pleasure of playing.....
It is Fun so, have fun!
Hi everyone, Thanks for all your input. I came across this article written back in 1982 by A.W.Jeffrey Jr. recommending the three string dulcimer. And I thought it might give a different perspective on the 3-string - 4-string discussion. I quote: "The traditional Appalachian dulcimer has been for the most part a simple and flexible 3-string instrument. Some early folk instruments had four strings which were really 3-string instruments with double melody strings to make four strings in all. This was done because early makers did not always have quality acoustical woods available to them, and the melody string was often overridden in volume by the two drone strings..The three string is recommended. It is more flexible for the various methods of playing. There is less string to tune and risk breaking. It is easier to change from one modal tuning to another, and its simplicity makes it more versatile. The sound is more uniquely that of a mountain folk dulcimer."
AS far as the balance idea for 3 or 5 string, I can see that it all depends upon what style you are playing in. If you are a noteter-drone player and if you are playing with other instruments, say the fiddle, then the four strings might be wanted. If you are playing in a melody chord style and you want to use all strings individually to accomplish this, then you might like the balance of three strings.
I've seen and played some of Tom's dulcimers on trips to NC. He doesn't build any instruments with the 'high silvery' traditional sound, but he does make some beautiful and easy playing contemporary dulcimers with a generally mellow sound.
Hi John
This is an interesting topic. I agree with most everyone else, do it your way. The right way is your way.
Personally, I play 3 strings only. Why? When my journey began 4 years ago. I immediately took my one and only lesson. The teacher was a past Florida state dulcimer champion. She said play with 3 strings. So I did.
Lisa, good for you. And you won't be disappointed. The sound and the quality is superb. I will be shocked if you are not happy with your choice.
I'm here to tell someone out there, if you are a little bored, and seeking a new challenge, another adventure, then Pipe and Tabor might just fill this need.
Well, it was nice of Terry to act as the 'trail blazer' and then advise me concerning the size of drum to order. I did order the 9" tabor drum and look forward to it coming within a few days. 
It's two sided, and will look like this:
Hi bfolkemer;
Remember that adjusting the action height is a very simple thing to do; don't reject a dulcimer because the action is a bit high. Buy a dulcimer by the quality of the sound, not the wood, action height or any other factors. Wood choice is fairly far down the list of things that affect the volume and quality of sound -- walnut or cherry or cedar does not necessarily make a dulcimer more mellow or sharp. Relatively larger soundholes (more square area of holes) on two dulcimer with the same size body will give you more volume. Larger internal volume gives you more external volume as well, but you generally lose the 'high silvery' sound.
Oh yes we do. I'll give it at least week or so.
Well, we know what the solution to that dilemma is, then. 
Lisa, while I wish for a 9 inch model, I like the 12 too much to return it.
Maybe you'd only have to pay 1 way shipping to exchange it for the 9" model?
My personal advice is not to buy an instrument from Ebay unless you both know what you're doing and can make minor adjustments to your instrument.
There are lots of reputable luthiers out there who make wonderful instruments. And a lot of this comes down to personal preference. I am tempted to go through my dulcimers and tell you what I like about each one, but that might take a while.
However, I would advise those who are new to the dulcimer to be patient. You don't know how your personal preferences may evolve. It took me perhaps three years of playing the dulcimer to understand what I want in a dulcimer. I like the big, round, bassy sound of modern dulcimers. I also like a fretboard that is wider than most (like Blue Lions, not like McSpaddens). I prefer ebony or some similar type of very hard wood as a fretboard overlay. Given the way I play I can comfortably work with dulicmers whose vibrating string length is 28.5" or less, but 29" becomes a stretch. I would like the 6+ and 1+ frets added. I now know that I want an internal pickup since that occasionally comes in handy. I could go on, of course.
My point is that before you know what dulcimers might be good choices for you, you have to play a while. So be patient. Save your dulcimer money in a little stash somewhere, adding to it whenever you can. Whenever you meet somone (or even see a video of someone) whose dulcimer you think sounds nice, ask them who made it and what they like about it. Ask if you can play it for a moment. Over time you will develop a wish list of dulcimers you really like, but at the same time you will be developing your own preferences so you'll have a better idea of what you are looking for in a dulcimer. Perhaps you already have discovered that you really like the low action of the Modern Mountain Dulcimers (I do, too), so you have already begun the process of developing your personal preferences.
Today I received a EMS Tabor Drum 12" with 2 sticks.
The drum is of excellent quality, and has a wonderful sound.
However, if I had it to do over again, I would choose a 10" drum. At least to learn on.. I should have considered weight and size to begin with. It's difficult enough just learning to hold the pipe with one hand.
I'll not be returning the 12". A little inconvenience might be a good thing.
I am posting this message just in case someone else is out there thinking of diving in.
Yes, I understand. But even if it's 'general' considerations, that encompass a huge variety of different stringed instrument problems and considerations. Each individual issue and case requires some explanation and also inspires discussion.
I agree, not a definitive guide.........what I meant was who knew that frets could lift, or that tuners go bad or such a thing as three different forms of intonation exist, or that different fret board lengths could require string thickness..........I was talking about general considerations..all those considerations that are highly unique could indeed cause a problem.......I never even considered that a fret board could warp, I figured if it looked good it would play well.
would it be possible to list things that new buyers of used and new instruments should be made aware of that they might not know about.........such as intonation issues, tuner problems, raised frets, warped fret boards, adjustable bridges etc.? Some of us older birds have learned the hard way so it seems plausible that if this was all in one place sort of as a go to guide or be on the lookout for sort of thing it might be helpful to lots of folk.
Hi Salt,
A couple of things- That sounds like a wonderful guide, but would definitely require significant effort and expertise. Not every expert, builder, seller, or buyer would agree on the various issues it might get into. 
I think a defining buyer's guide like that would be great, but perhaps better written or hosted by someone on their own website, since FOTMD is not intended as a definitive knowledge resource ...but rather more as a social community.
I created this particular forum where we are posting here ( Forum: Instruments- specific features, instruments, problems, questions ) as a place where these kinds of instrument problems or questions could be brought up individually as needed. I'd rather that FOTMD not have a comprehensive (and interactive) outline that advises 'what to buy or avoid'...I can foresee too many potential problems. It could be a terrific project for some experienced and enterprising builder to create on their own website however!
A satin or matte finish usually has an additive like talc which keeps it from drying "glossy." Its sealing qualities are the same as a shiny finish. I wouldn't oil it because it probably won't penetrate, but just sit on top of the finish and get gooey.
After getting an instrument cleaned up, I'm a fan of a good quality paste wax for mild protection and a nice glow.
You've gotten some good advice here. I, like Ken L, have bought many an instrument sight unseen. Most of the time I've been satisfied regardless of whether it's a "traditional" or a "modern" instrument. I've been ripped off twice (my opinion, the sellers says they didn't.) I've screwed up once. So, that being said, you know you can't go wrong with a McSpadden or Folkcraft/Folkroots. Even if you don't like the sound they will be fine quality instruments and (unless you really pay too much) you can probably get your money back. There are some really great instruments out there by other makers and there are some old ones that may look good, but aren't. I bought a really nice looking teardrop made in WV 40 years ago off ebay and it is unplayable. The woodworking is superb but the fret layout is crazy. Fortunately it was only about 50 bucks. If you see one you like ask on here. I'd bet someone has played one or knows someone who has.
Beth -- the big difference between a Contemporary dulcimer and a Traditional dulcimer isn't the kind of music played, but rather the overall tone of the instrument. Contemporary dulcimers have a larger interior volume than a Traditional instrument, and so they will have a more 'mellow' (bass/baritone) sound. Traditional dulcimers are narrower/shallower, have a more 'high silvery' sound, and may not be set up to play chords at all (narrow fretboard and/or frets only under the melody string).
Generally a contemporary dulcimer will have sides 2" or more in depth, and be 8" or more wide. Traditional dulcimers tend to have sides under 2" tall and run 5" to 7" wide at the widest.
If you see an instrument you like, call the builder and ask him/her to play one for you over the phone. Most builders are happy to oblige.
Just a thought....about a new topic that many of you who are more knowledgeable than I might consider setting up, especially those of you who are builders.......
would it be possible to list things that new buyers of used and new instruments should be made aware of that they might not know about.........such as intonation issues, tuner problems, raised frets, warped fret boards, adjustable bridges etc.? Some of us older birds have learned the hard way so it seems plausible that if this was all in one place sort of as a go to guide or be on the lookout for sort of thing it might be helpful to lots of folk.
Hello again, Beth. I have purchased instruments on both eBay and Goodwill auction sites. A couple of them were good buys, but I have been burned as well. If you can return it if not satisfied, that's a plus, but a lot of trouble. A Warren May I purchased needed repairs which was not disclosed in the information, nor visible in the pictures. Because I build and repair instruments, it was no big problem. I responded to you post over at ED with other advise.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
What kind of music are you most likely to be playing on it? And in what style?- noter droning style or modern chord/melody style? Or fingerpicking perhaps?
This is an important question, because people who play certain styles tend to want or need certain features on their dulcimers, since they are using quite different playing techniques and they are usually seeking a specific tone and sound.
I know you say you are a professional player and are looking for a 'great' instrument, but then you say money is tight, so that will certainly limit your options. Some of the instruments you mention that interest you are not usually among lower priced dulcimers.
When you buy a dulcimer without playing it in person first, it can be a good idea to only buy from a reputable dealer or maker. Avoid Ebay 'bargains' unless you're willing to take a risk.
Hi. I have been in your position -- wanting to diversify but being on a budget and not being in an area where there were lots of options. I would encourage you to find ways to "test drive" as many different makers as possible. There may be a conference or workshop that you can get to -- or check out the dulcimer club page and see if you can get to a club event (even if just once). What you will find is that there are many, many talented makers but some set ups will "fit" and others will be "lovely, but not for me".
Here's my path: I bought my first dulcimer from a neighbor who made it in his wood shop. No 6.5 fret and big strings (he's a tough ole banjo player). I learned on it but it was not a delight to play. My next purchase was a Ron Gibson that I ordered based on a sound file that he posted. I was a nervous wreck spending that much money on something I hadn't handled. It was very, very stressful. The Angels were smiling on me and Ron's instrument is a splendid beauty that fits me well. Whew! (It arrived Christmas Eve! A grand holiday!). I can definitely recommend Ron Gibson.
I had opportunities to handle Blue Lion and think they are marvelous -- what a lovely make -- but then I saw an affordable McSpadden on the area Craigslist and grabbed it -- only to find it had ancient, slipping tuners. That is fixable but for more $$. And that's where poking around has led to a real blessing: Ron Kunkle lives in Shelton, WA and makes dulcimers, Native flutes and other things. Although I don't own a "Kunkle" I think the workmanship is superb and Ron K helped me revive the slipping McSpadden. Through Ron Kunkle I've learned to "see" much more of what dulcimer construction is about. I think Ron Kunkle's instruments are just as fine as any I've handled -- but he's not well known outside our area.
Then there was the near disaster: I saw a dulcimer in the commission space of the local guitar store. Oh, what a beauty! I almost paid bucks on the spot. I asked to play the instrument. Ugh. A mess. The guitar store employees said they would throw in some new strings. Fortunately I chickened out and spoke to "our Ron " (Ron Kunkle) who speculated that perhaps a fret had risen (which can happen in our damp climate). I went back to the guitar store and sighted down the fret board. It was like the Himalayas with some things low, some high and some very high. I suspect that beautiful, beautiful instrument was stored in an unheated storage unit for a long time.
In short, be cautious. When we can't spend money, let's spend time so that the few bucks we have aren't wasted on a pseudo bargain. If you are not part of a club, please consider finding a public space and starting one (ours is in the community room at the fire station). I say "public space" so that you don't have to clean house! (also there should be parking and accessible bathrooms). Libraries, churches, schools are all possibilities. Our local club has been an enormous blessing to me because it brings me into contact with more experienced players, new songs and gives us all a chance to oogle and handle various styles of dulcimers.
There may be much more in your area that you know. An unknown (like our Ron Kunkle) who produces magic may be around the corner -- with the added blessing that you can handle to your heart's content. Who would have guessed there were such dulcimer riches in . . . western Washington? I've been so happily surprised by how many instruments and nice people pop up when one has an eye out -- I wish you your own happy ending!
