Forum Activity for @ken-longfield

Bob, that sounds like an excellent idea. Play the banjo! And, you're welcome.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

A marine band harmonica tuned to D works for me. Blow into first hole for low D or forth hole for high D. My ears do the rest. And I can play along with myself too... Can't do that with a clip on... Robert.

Play books has a 60 page free sample. I read most of it this evening. Very through to say the least. If anyone wants to know how all this great music came about this book is an excellent place to start. As for me after reading on a tiny phone screen I think I'll just rest my eyes and play some banjo. Thanks Ken.... Robert...

There is a pretty good article on this idea on Wikipedia under Pythagorean tuning with some sound samples..................if you can figure it out let me know....way to much for this boy...whew!  I'll stick with 440...though I have to wonder how some of those medieval tune that Jessica Coumeau plays would sound...as for me and my house Old Joe Clark is about as wild as it gets.   Might just drop her a note and see what she thinks............if anyone would know she would be at the top of my list as her wizardry on a dulcimer is something to behold.  

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_tuning

 Hey Al, question for you: "Have you tried tuning with a tuner set at 432 mhz vice 440?   Checking some video near the link you posted above.........I've used it before and thought it was a bit odd....how about you?

I think you'll like it Robin. My only complaint is the layout. I dislike the little boxes that provide additional information which either break up the narrative if you stop to read them while you are on that page or force you to go back and read them all after you've finished the chapter.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

I ordered a walnut capo from Ron just last week, using Paypal, and everything went through like a charm.  I received it only 3 days later.  I don't know how to use one yet, but have one just in case.    

Yea I was following the one on eBay (someone got a deal). I also corresponded with Mike Clemmer about learning on one. Decided I better stick to a stock dulcimer then move on to variants. The Ban Jammer is stung with 4 strings all in different tune to better simulate a banjo sound. Mike said I could leave one string off and tune as a Dulcimer. It seemed like the spacing on the sound board would be strange with 3 strings and as a newbie player I don't need any more excuses for having problems.

I stopped at a music store to see what it would cost to have my Hondo fixed up and they said around $50 but they were 2 weeks behind on work. So I will play it the way it is for now and maybe buy a slightly better one if I find one I like.

Thanks for all the help.

Jim...

Thanks, dan - I know when the tab has it printed for a capo at the top. I was looking for the info, without a tab just to know the mode or tuning when using a capo. 

      lisa,

      Thank you, this is what I was looking for - something like the chart for associated tunings and the starting frets listed in    

           ( jcdulcimer.com/CapoesInstructions.pdf ) 

Great information in the two links provided by Lisa.  Thanks for sharing Lisa.

Here are a couple of references on where to put a capo, and what happens to the key and mode when you do it:

http://www.jcdulcimer.com/CapoesInstructions.pdf

http://www.sksmithmusic.com/virtual_classroom/modes.html

I just realized I missed a great pun opportunity:  ...way up there where the aire is thin.   

Aw, that's very kind of you, Lisa. I think I'm just a bit of an anomaly liking those high frets. Dale Foye just finished building my Aeolus Soprano!  It's so amazing. It's tuned a fifth above a standard, but it still has a 28" fretboard, so it still has great sustain.  Can't wait to play it!!

I often use the 1.5, and its octave higher 8.5....but truthfully I'd likely never use the third octave sister to the 1.5 which is the 15.5.    I do use the 6.5 and its higher sister the 13.5 though.  I find the tone and the hard feel above the 14th fret to be too problematic.  But that's just me....an incredible player like Guy could make it sound heavenly way up there where the air is thin.  

Beat me to it lol!

Marg, the fret to be capo'd should be printed at the top of your tableture.  I will probably be written as Capo 1, Capo 2, etc.

I'm odd that way I guess. I really enjoy those upper frets sometimes!

Unless you have a 6&1/2 fret and capo at 3 in which case you'll be FCC or FCF, you will have to play in a different mode.  You can't just apply the capo a little higher if the tuning's too low for you the way you would on a guitar or banjo.

I reccomend "the capo book #1" by Dallas Cline. I got mine off ebay. But if you google you may find a place that sells it!

Lots of good info

Maria

Sorry ken, didn't say this right, if we can try again:    

Is there a guide showing - when the capo is on the different frets in DAd and/or DAA what key would I be in then?  -  like -  (if you are tuned DAd and put the capo just left of the second fret, your strings are now tuned FCf) 

What tuning would the dulcimer be in if I put the capo on the other frets, if I am tuned already in DAd?

 John,

I appreciate your answer. I did cut a bunch of all types when I first set up my slotting jig a couple of years ago. I now have a whole bunch of fretboards labeled “All extra frets”. It was a production mistake to assume there would be a preference for that configuration. No big, as they can always become chromatic fretboards.

Ken,

Thanks for confirming what I thought might be true.

-rick

Marg -- you're probably not going to be able to capo from some tuning to DAd or DAA. 

Tuning Tip -- Never try to tune a "silent" string.  Pluck the string and while it's singing turn the tuner knob you that think is the right one 1/4 turn slack (not tight).  If you do not hear the singing string lower in tone, you're turning the wrong knob.  But since you slacked first, you won't snap it accidentally.

I do think players are not particularly concerned about the 'upper octave' frets, as a great many people don't regularly play above fret 14.

You need to figure out your intended clientele, I think.  Give the customer what s/he is looking for, whatever it is.  More frets, fewer frets.

There are so many configurations available now that it makes one's head spin.  Many times a dulcimer is no longer just a dulcimer.

How about cutting some of all types, and using the desired one on a particular build.

Thanks to everyone once again, I always appreciate the honest feedback when I ask random questions.

 I'm a much more a collector who enjoys making "noise" on my dulcimers, than an actual good player, you all blow me away.

A = 440 is merely for calibrating your tuner.  But that A is actually an octave above the middle string A of a dulcimer tuned DAd.

For a standard dulcimer tuned DAd, the bass D should be 146.8, the middle A should be 220, and the melody D should be 293.7.

Ellozz, for a 27" dulcimer the string gauges you are using seem very reasonable to me. Just put on some glasses before you tune and hope for the best.

I think you s/b using C [chromatic] mode with that tuner. V is for violin, G, guitar and B, Bass.

Thanks for the reply Ken. My understanding goes like this:

If you add the 6+ then you add the 13+ which is an active higher. With this same logic, if you add the 1+ it implies the 8+ again an active higher. Continuing the logic, the 1+ and 8+ would also have the 15+.

Do some players want the 1+, 6+ and 13+ without the additional frets that are an active higher, the 8+ and the 15+?

The reason I am trying to work this out is because I am going to slot a bunch of fingerboards on my slotting jig. I can always add slots later by hand but would like to cut as many slots as I can with the jig. Do I just jig cut slots for no extra frets?

-rick

Where do we find a guide to which fret to  place the capo on to be in which key for DAd & DAA?

thanks

Like a lot of "old-time" makers, and some other makers who, like himself, began making in the tradition-revival transition period, Homer made dulcimers that are a lot closer to JI than to ET.  They are usually meant to be tuned 1-5-5 (eg. DAA) - bass to treble, and sound beautifully sweet in this tuning when played melody/drone style.

He usually included the metal fine tuners you mention.  (These are manufactured for violins.)

Homer was Homer.  His scales were unique. 

As a regular item I would only build with the 6+ and 13+  frets, but make other frets available at $X per fret as part of a build-order.. 

Personally I don' even want the 6+ fret, as I'm a traditionalist.

I'd get the 1.5, the 6.5, AND their octave higher pair 8.5 and 13.5.   And yes I use them.  

Note to other readers here: we have a Group devoted entirely to info on 'extra frets' here on fotmd:

http://fotmd.com/strumelia/group/29/i-have-extra-frets

- so if anyone gets inspired to start discussing the whys and hows of extra frets in depth, please continue any full blown discussions there in the group .  Thanks!

A very general question.

If you were buying a new or used mountain dulcimer, which extra frets would you want, if any? This will help me decide which configuration of frets I should put on the new dulcimers that I build.

thanks

-rick 

Hi george,

Could be either, but regardless, all dulcimers are tuned the same way.

First you tune the home fret on your melody string to the key you want.
Second you tune the bass string to the same note, but an octave lower.
Third you tune the middle string a fifth above the bass.

Custom scale? Hmmm, what would you say it more closely  is similar too, JI, or T, would you have to tune it differently? I'm always looking for older harder to find dulcimers that are more unique, and for whatever reason I find I'm becoming more of a fan of wood friction tuners as opposed to the geared ones.

Homer had a custom scale.

Another thought is that the strings may be old.  Over time, the metal in strings gets work-hardened from tuning, re-tuning, strumming, etc.  Eventually they loose their ability to stretch and they become brittle.  If you are still using the same strings that were on the instrument when you received it, I recommend putting new ones on.

Those metal things look like fine tuners similar to what you would see on a violin.  They are used to fine tune the strings after you get the pitch set with the tuning pegs.