Patty, the title of the listing now says "Lynn" but the extended description still says "Layman." My guess is that it was an auto-correct function that created the word "Layman" when the seller tried to type (or text) "Lynn."
I don't think it's from a kit because the kit wouldn't have Lynn's signature or a serial number.
Now it appears the description on the listing says Lynn McSpadden
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Beautiful-Lynn-McSpadden-M12-W-Dulcimer-Case-/390992077152?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5b08f1a160
Below in the Category section it says Layman. Sure is confusing at best.
I saw this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beautiful-Layman-McSpadden-M12-W-Dulcimer-Case-/390992077152
I've guessing this is a kit. Is that correct or does "Layman McSpadden" exist?
Great idea and I think one which I could certainly benefit from. Building finger strength, independence, and muscle memory was key to being a better piano player and I can't imagine it would be any different for dulcimer playing. I have to admit, although I have Mike Casey's book and also Aaron O'Rourke's Cleaner Better Faster, I don't pull them out nearly as much as I should. New Year's Resolution.....
Monty, I remember Hanon for the piano, in the Hanon-Schaum version, but can't say those memories are "fond." LOL I do also remember trying to use them to help build finger dexterity when I began studying classical guitar. Those memories are more fond. I think exercises of this type would definitely benefit the dulcimist whether playing with the fingers or a pick. Also, I played them on a pure diatonic (no 6 1/2 fret) and they didn't sound bad using the 6 fret. For notation software I use musedit, a free download. Gives you 3 or 4 string tab and allows you to set the tuning.
I find that dulcimers with larger bodies and TALLER bodies (not shallow) tend to have bigger rounder voices. Tops made of softwood like spruce or redwood seem to have lots of resonance, like guitars do. Walnut is known for sounding 'warmer' than say maple or cherry, which is a bit brighter and crisper. I've had one of each and found that true in my case. If you are plugging in, you can control the volume pretty easily.
Get the wood combination that looks best to you. On a list of things which affect the tone of a dulcimer, the species of wood(s) is pretty far down the list. All else being equal, wood choice will matter somewhat, but the characteristics you're seeking can be obtaining in a variety of ways that have nothing to do with wood species. What you call 'warmth' and volume will come from the larger than average volume of the body.
My diatonic McSpadden Dulcimer will soon have a chromatic Folkcraft Friend. But the VSL will be only 25" on this new one, with a Fishman pick up (This diatonic is 28"). A high volume body because of the shorter VSL (unlike this diatonic), but what type of wood should I get? This one will be a plug in for recording, but I still am seeking a warm loud sound, so I'm thinking African Mahogany or Black Walnut, and how to split this up if at all? (sbrd - body/sides). I was tempted to get sitka spruce for sbrd, but I heard one at this VSL being played and the warmth was removed. How to achieve warmth and "fat sound" without mudiness?
I guess I'll use the diatonic McSpadden now just for "n and d" old fashioned tunes and the chromatic for chording songs. My hands are tiny as so am I....and very arthritic. the VSL of my McSpadden is too long and it's painful for me to chord. So this is why I want a chromatic dulcimer. I can't hold my hands in a guitar playing position anymore.
The McSpadden is solid cherry, and I love the ringing warmth it projects.
I keep searching the web for sound bytes of solid walnut 25" VSls, and the same for Mahogany but can't find any samples to listen to.
Hi Liz,
Don't worry about the number of sound holes, it may have a small effect if the hourglass shape is looked at as two chambers, but the reason is more likely to be pure aesthetics, or even something more practical.
I've seen dulcimers with 3 sound holes where the missing one is on the upper bout nearest your body. If you are playing drone style(sliding up and down the melody string only) then it's all too easy to get you fingers caught, especially with a low fretboard. I find myself playing with my pinky cocked up a lot to avoid the sound hole.
As far as strings go, what you have ordered will probably work OK for most tunings, but if you find yourself being taught in DAD a lot you may want to drop the melody string a gauge or two.
I suspect Ken likes a very lightly strung instrument that can be tuned a bit higher than standard,
I play mainly in DAA and favour a 22 on the bass and 11s on the middle and melody.
You have had acouple of good answers LIz !, but not by 'he who asked the question' lol, sorry, I was abed ! I 'converted' one of my 27" VSL instruments into a baritone, ( heavier strings and consequent adjustment to string slots ) so your 28" VSL may well perform as a baritone. Be good if you could get it to another player/luthier for a looksee at its existing stringing, or maybe post a pic/sound clip here ? String gauge the vital factor !!!
John
John Henry said:
Liz, what is its 'Vibrating String Length' (or VSL), this is of more use than an OA length to anyone trying to make decisions on what your instrument might be( baritone?). VSL = distance measured from inside face of the 'nut' to inside face of the 'bridge'
John
It is fun to be enthused with a new toy. Exclaim all you like!!!
With a 28" VSL you could string and tune it as a baritone. You would use a heavier (thicker) set of strings than standard and, of course, tune lower. But you should be able to tune up to D (the standard pitch these days) with ordinary strings without any problem. If you wanted to use the baritone strings, you would probably have to widen the string slots a little to accomodate the fatter strings.
The two soundholes instead of four probably doesn't have much effect on the sound. Most dulcimers aren't terribly loud. I suspect your instrument was home-made, likely from a kit. Maybe the builder ran out of patience after two hearts!
In any event, enjoy your new instrument!!!!!
That's the number you need to remember, Liz. Overall length only effects the internal volume of the dulcimer. The VSL is important for picking the right string to tune and play the notes you need (called tunings).
A 28" VSL dulcimer can, generally speaking, be either a baritone or a 'regular' dulcimer depending on the gauges (diameters) of the strings you put on it, and the notes to which you tune the strings.
I strongly suggest you read the article-blog I wrote several years, aimed at folks like yourself, called I Just Got A Dulcimer, Now What? It's an illustrated glossary of dulcimer terms so when you ask questions you can use terms we all understand; plus answers to many beginner questions about the tuning, playing, care and feeding of your new friend.
The article is here: http://mountaindulcimer.ning.com/profiles/blogs/i-just-got-a-dulcim...
IMHO as a player for nearly 40 years, starting out with a "regular" dulcimer rather than a baritone would be to your advantage. To tune your 28" VSL dulcimer to 'regular' dulcimer tunings like DAA and DAd, you will want strings of the following gauges: bass string = 20 wound; middle drone = 12 plain steel; melody string (or 2) = 10 plain steel. Many acoustic music shops sell sets of 4 strings, any of which will do fine for getting started.
If you have access to a micrometer, you can measure the diameters of the strings on the dulcimer. If they are significantly larger in diameter than the numbers I gave below, then your dulcimer has been rigged as a baritone.
The number of soundholes is not what matters; it's the total area of the soundholes. Whether yours has one or two holes per bout, the builder has no doubt given enough hole area to let the sound out appropriately. There are other factors that also affect the volume of the dulcimer such as how hard you strum, how large the interior volume is, and many more. Basically, don't worry about it!
I see that you're a "Panhandler" from Milton, FL. If you ever come down coast to Fort Myers, give me a call and we can meet up and play some tunes.
Liz, what is its 'Vibrating String Length' (or VSL), this is of more use than an OA length to anyone trying to make decisions on what your instrument might be( baritone?). VSL = distance measured from inside face of the 'nut' to inside face of the 'bridge'
John
I wouldn't glue anything but I do think the nut is already glued.
After starting this thread, it was mention ( this question is probably best asked in the Builders Group,) so I posted it there also. Sorry if this has cause a problem but this set up has been nothing but confusing from the start & the members are about the only ones who can give me any advice. And still without knowing anything myself, there is - sent it back, get it fixed for about $100, or just play in the strum hollow - I wish I did know more about building an instrument, so I would at least know best way of dealing with this problem.
Yes, it's very confusing
Strumelia said:
I would strongly recommend against gluing a shim underneath the nut. Shims are usually considered to be temporary fixes, even if they are left in for many years. Personally, I prefer no glue at all under a nut even when it doesn't have a shim. String tension holds it in place nicely, and nuts are something that people change or adjust fairly frequently, so having it easily removable is convenient.
(Marg, you seem to have started several threads on the same subject in various locations- next time it would be less confusing if you only post one thread per subject or per question... thanks much!)
I would strongly recommend against gluing a shim underneath the nut. Shims are usually considered to be temporary fixes, even if they are left in for many years. Personally, I prefer no glue at all under a nut even when it doesn't have a shim. String tension holds it in place nicely, and nuts are something that people change or adjust fairly frequently, so having it easily removable is convenient.
(Marg, you seem to have started several threads on the same subject in various locations- next time it would be less confusing if you only post one thread per subject or per question... thanks much!)
If I strum close to the strum hollow or right in front of it, there is no problem. But if I was to strum up the fretboard, I start getting lots of tangs. I took the string out of the slot cut into the bone at saddle & it didn't seem to make any difference. Ny other dulcimer I can play up the fret board with no problem. Is this a problem with high frets that only cause an issue when I play close to them?
Is there something that can be done for this or just don't strum anywhere but close to the strum hollow?
Would putting a slim under the nut help out with any of this, opposite end, maybe not raising the higher frets any higher?
Hello Marg - The shims that I put in 30-odd years ago have not been touched or replaced in all that time, and are still doin their job!
"A bit of knowledge can help "
Yes, and all of you have been great.
thank you
m.
I make them as needed. I have so much junk laying around I don't need to have a collection, plus I've even used shavings from a hand plane.
marg said:
Do you have some ready made or just when need one. Seems could have a few in different thickness, a collection of shims. Thanks for the info. on the 'glue', I have seen that mention in some areas & wondered about it. Never thought I would like to put glue on my dulcimer,
Marg,
I keep an old yogurt lid in my shoe box that also has strings, needle-nose pliers, instrument polish, fretboard oil, 0000 steel wool (for polishing frets), etc. My kit. I trim off a tiny piece of plastic and shape it on the spot as needed for any students' instruments with buzzing issues. The shim doesn't have to fit in the string groove - sometimes it goes perpendicular to the string. It will settle in as the string is tightened.
It can be surprising to have to deal with instrument issues, but they do arise. A bit of knowledge can help keep you playing. All things need upkeep!
Do you have some ready made or just when need one. Seems could have a few in different thickness, a collection of shims. Thanks for the info. on the 'glue', I have seen that mention in some areas & wondered about it. Never thought I would like to put glue on my dulcimer,
Skip said:
Just about everything you may use can be cut with scissors. Hard business cards or the hard plastic bubble pack for thinner shims. Most of this stuff will curl a bit as it's cut, but that won't hurt anything. I don't think I would use glue.
Just about everything you may use can be cut with scissors. Hard business cards or the hard plastic bubble pack for thinner shims. Most of this stuff will curl a bit as it's cut, but that won't hurt anything. I don't think I would use glue.
The silver of plastic sounds like it would indeed need to be just a sliver to fit in the string groove. What about the idea of the drop of glue in the grove, not now since I think it's ok but is the glue last measure & try all the other ideas first?
m.
Linda W. Collins said:
Hi Marg,
If the twang sound is coming from only one string, a temporary (but long-lasting temporary) fix is to use a tiny sliver of plastic, cut from a food container lid, placed at/in the string groove in the bridge or nut, as needed. I have found this to help quite a bit - until the instrument can go to a well-trained luthier. [That is a very important person to locate!]
Good luck,
Linda
30 years ago, wow that's good to know since I have felt putting one in was somehow taking something away from the dulciborn. Since, it's new I didn't want to turn it into something less than new.
Over the years do you need to replace the wood or card, does it go down after awhile? I don't think I need to worry about 30 years but the slim is good till it's not - than just replace it?
Thanks,
m.
John Shaw said:
Hello Marg. If your bridge saddle and nut are not glued into place it's very straightforward to put a thin shim of card or wood under them, as Bobby says, and check how the instrument behaves then. My experience is that you don't necessarily have to regard this just as a temporary fix. My two favourite dulcimers have shims of wood or card under both the bridge and nut that I put in over 30 years ago!
Hope not problems to hamper the playing of the dulciborn. But, yes, I'm sure it has several issues & my playing is one of them. It has such an interesting tone, but was not set up so I could play as I unpacked it. Like getting a Christmas present with no batteries for it. I will say, I have learn some about the instrument since I have had a few problems, where I may not have if it would have come set up correct to start.
m.
joe sanguinette said:
the suggestion that a good luthier should examine the instrument is a good one. you could have one or
more of a number of problems.
Thanks, sounds like I need to start saving old credit cards. The thing was, this bone was just made for me to replace the one that came with the instrument. Besides credit cards, maybe need to start a collection of bones.
How do you cut the credit card? sounds like an art project.
thanks,
m
Bobby Ratliff said:
As Dusty said, you can shim it to prevent making a new one. A simple solution is to try a piece of credit card stock underneath the saddle or nut, whichever was lowered for you. It may be a little high at first, but it will compress over time. If it ain't high enough, it may need two. You should consider a shim a temporary fix, and get a new nut or saddle made. However, I have played my instruments with papers shims for several months or a couple years before finally breaking down and making a new nut or saddle the correct height.
Thanks Dusty, I don't have a luthier here, I took it to a guitar shop & repair. They lowered the action so when i went back today we did put a little shim underneath the pick up, than the pick up back in than the bone. I think we are ok for now and the problem of the low action having a problem was because the fretwork or fretboard did raise some in the middle. Otherwise the height would have been great. Too bad the repair person didn't notice this before he sanded just a bit more off the bone. I was not wanting to address so many issues on a new dulcimer (dulciborn) so the shim was a good fix. Would be nice if we didn't need to adjust so many things & just working on learning to play our instruments.
As always, thanks,
m
Dusty Turtle said:
Marg, this question is probably best asked in the Builders Group, but as we wait for the experts to chime in, my first question would be who adjusted the dulcimer in the past? Does it have a zero fret? Remember that the action can be adjusted at either end of the string, and that the lower the action the more accurate and even the fretwork has to be. Unfortunately, one reason for very high action, I think, is that some luthiers are simply too lazy to be precise with their frets.
It is possible to raise the bridge (or more accurately the saddle) slightly by adding a little shim underneath it, so if the action just has to be raised a little bit, that might be an option. I had that done to a baritone dulcimer I used to own and the slight buzz that had so bothered me went away. But the height of the nut might also need adjusting, so have a luthier examine the whole instrument.
I took a dulcimer to a good luthier recently. He made a few measurements and was able to tell me that the nut was the right height but the bridge was a little low. He made a new bone bridge in less than an hour while I waited at a nearby cafe. A good luthier should not merely do what you request (lower or raise the action) but examine the instrument and tell you how it ought to be set up given your preferences.
Hi Marg,
If the twang sound is coming from only one string, a temporary (but long-lasting temporary) fix is to use a tiny sliver of plastic, cut from a food container lid, placed at/in the string groove in the bridge or nut, as needed. I have found this to help quite a bit - until the instrument can go to a well-trained luthier. [That is a very important person to locate!]
Good luck,
Linda
Hello Marg. If your bridge saddle and nut are not glued into place it's very straightforward to put a thin shim of card or wood under them, as Bobby says, and check how the instrument behaves then. My experience is that you don't necessarily have to regard this just as a temporary fix. My two favourite dulcimers have shims of wood or card under both the bridge and nut that I put in over 30 years ago!
the suggestion that a good luthier should examine the instrument is a good one. you could have one or
more of a number of problems.
Marg, this question is probably best asked in the Builders Group, but as we wait for the experts to chime in, my first question would be who adjusted the dulcimer in the past? Does it have a zero fret? Remember that the action can be adjusted at either end of the string, and that the lower the action the more accurate and even the fretwork has to be. Unfortunately, one reason for very high action, I think, is that some luthiers are simply too lazy to be precise with their frets.
It is possible to raise the bridge (or more accurately the saddle) slightly by adding a little shim underneath it, so if the action just has to be raised a little bit, that might be an option. I had that done to a baritone dulcimer I used to own and the slight buzz that had so bothered me went away. But the height of the nut might also need adjusting, so have a luthier examine the whole instrument.
I took a dulcimer to a good luthier recently. He made a few measurements and was able to tell me that the nut was the right height but the bridge was a little low. He made a new bone bridge in less than an hour while I waited at a nearby cafe. A good luthier should not merely do what you request (lower or raise the action) but examine the instrument and tell you how it ought to be set up given your preferences.
How hard is it to find the right action. My new dulcimer came to me, way to high. It has been adjusted but after several tries it is now too low with trang trang more than a buzz.
How hard is it to adjust it again, raising it a bit without making a new bone?
Kate, I responded to this discussion in the Chord group, and would suggest anyone interested in responding do so there as well.
http://mountaindulcimer.ning.com/forum/topics/help-with-transposing
I'm going to close this discussion so that we can keep everything in one place.
Thanks,
Dusty
Chuck, the link is to a pdf file that Stephen Seifert makes available at his website. I just tried it and it worked for me. But I did just check out Stephen's website, and he has completely redesigned it, so maybe that is causing a problem. Another chord chart is available at Everything Dulcimer. Go to the Tablature page there, scroll down to "chord chart," and you'll see the three or four options available.
Chuck in CT said:
Hello Dusty- the link u posted doesn't take me to the chord chart. Wondering if itsmy browser or maybe itsbeen removed?
Hi Kate and welcome to FOTMD. Looks like Dusty has provided what you needed, but I wanted to respond to his comment "the festival season is basically over." That's true, but there is the Pocono Festival coming up in January, I believe, so if you're in the east perhaps you'd want to take a trip to PA. :)
Kate, a lot of people have been playing dulcimer for many years and have no idea what notes they are playing. That's part of the beauty of the instrument: you can play it even with no understanding of basic music theory.
But of course, any little knowledge you gain will help.
Chords are indicated with three numbers. The first number refers to the fret you play on the bass string, the second number refers to the fret you play on the middle string, and the third number refers to the fret you play on the melody string. So 0-0-2 is a D chord played with the bass and middle strings open (unfretted) and the melody string fretted at the second fret.
However, two things make chording even easier than that on the dulcimer.
First, if you are tuned DAd, all your chords are reversible. So, for example, D can be not only 0-0-2 but also 2-0-0 and Bm can be 0-1-2 or 2-1-0.
Second, because we only have three strings, we cannot play complicated chords. A seventh chord technically has four notes, but we can only play three of them. And we use that principle for three-note chords, too. So often we play two notes of a chord rather than all three. So most of the time beginners will play 1-0-1 for A or A7 even though only two notes are being played.
The chord chart I link to above shows you various places around the fingerboard to play all the chords you need for this song. But if you are a beginner, I suggest playing the easiest versions down near the nut, making use of as many open strings as you can.
For D: 0-0-2
For A: 1-0-1
For Bm: 2-1-0
For G: 3-1-0
For E: 1-1-1
For A7: 1-0-3
And I know you feel alone right now, but you are in a part of the country where there actually are dulcimer players. The festival season is basically over, but keep your eyes open and you'll notice dulcimer festivals around where you can join workshops and just watch other players. There might even be a dulcimer group nearby that you can join. When I first discovered the dulcimer I played for about a year before I heard another dulcimer live other than my own. But about two years ago I started a local dulcimer group, I now have dozens of people on my mailing list, and we've been meeting monthly since then! I'm sure you'll be able to find some folks nearby as well.
Kate, are you just looking to transpose the chords to accompany your voice? If so, that's pretty easy.
The chords in the link you provided are in the key of E. To transpose them to the key of D, each chord should be lowered one full note.
E D
B A
C#m Bm
A G
F# E
B7 A7
Those chords are all pretty standard chords so you shouldn't have trouble with them. There are lots of chord charts out there, but my favorite is the one Stephen Seifert makes available at his website .
P.S. Welcome to FOTMD!
Thanks Rob!!! How appropriate for today. I looked at the outside thermometer and it said 10 degrees.
"Drive the Cold Winter Away," in the music I found for it, is in D minor. It works out really well in DAc tuning. In fact, I have it tabbed out now.
Send a friend request if you'd like a copy.
Rob
