Forum Activity for @strumelia

Phil, next time, just type in something like "free tab" into our FOTMD handy SEARCH BOX at the top right of any page here. It will pull up various threads showing links to free tab, and this thread is right on the second page of the search results. It's really easier to find stuff here by using the FOTMD search box!

phil said:

it took me all night to find this page again I so glade it still here. A few weeks ago my old laptop with all my links up and died on me. I have been going nuts trying to find some of the links I had and here are most of them, Thanks Folkfan and Vivian.

www.contemplator.com for Anglo-American folk music midis including most of the Child Ballads

Tull Glazener's website:

http://www.tullglazener.com/Current%20Free%20Tab%20offered%20by%20Tull%20Glazener-mountain%20dulcimer%20performer%20and%20workshop%20instructor.htm

it took me all night to find this page again I so glade it still here. A few weeks ago my old laptop with all my links up and died on me. I have been going nuts trying to find some of the links I had and here are most of them, Thanks Folkfan and Vivian.

Vivian, I think anyone who looks in this DulcimerResources/Tab/Books forum will see the title of this thread and be able to see your post and links.

I'm just wondering, is there a way to post these links to free tab sites in a way that would be easy for people to find? As it is they seem to get buried in pages of other posts, unless there is a way already and I just haven't found it..I thought I saw some of these links once before, but could not relocate them, which is one reason I reposted the ones that I was familiar with. If there is already a permanent place to access certain links please let me know! Thanks

Wow, those are nice sites. I had used Prussie Valley before, but had not the others. I forgot about using image search. Thanks!

Another tip for TAB and SMN is to use Google IMAGE search instead of the general search.

Helps eliminate some of the dross.

john p

http://www.shelleystevens.com/

http://www.jcdulcimer.com/

http://www.gulfweb.net/rlwalker/jamnfolk/jamnfolk.html

http://www.prussiavalley.com/

http://www.mountaindulcimer-1-3-5.com/

Here are a few other sites for tab

I see that lots of people who are beginners like me and new to this are asking for tabs, or how to find tabs, and I thought I would post this...I have found lots of songs I am looking for on these sites. sniff.numachi.com has a very good database and tons of tab...I generally start by just doing a Google search ..."free dulcimer tab for____"and find tons of links that have the tabs.

http://sniff.numachi.com

You've mentioned 3 keys that you'd like to play with your instrument tuned to DGdd which would give you the key of G with the scale starting on 3 on the melody string. You'd have a D and G drone as you would with the traditional GDD tuning only the drones would be reverse. This would mean using DAA or 1-5-5 tabs.

If you play the middle string as the G on the open string, you could use DAd or 1-5-8 tabs. You wouldn't have the G drone though, only the lower D on bass and higher d on melody.

To play the key of D as DAdd all you need to do is tune the middle string one note higher from G to A. Use DAd tabs.

The Key of A is normally played AEE, AEA on a baritone and uses heavier gauge strings as the A is the A below the C3 or the C below middle C. However, if you are tuned to DGdd you can do a sort of reverse A as EAe by tuning you bass D one note up to E, the middle string G one note up to A, and the melody strings dd one note up to ee. Again you have the E and A drone with the a at 3 on the melody strings so you'd need DAA or 1-5-5 tabs.

If you are a chord player, you'll have to rearrange your fingers for the proper pattern, but if you're a melody drone player, the tunings should work.

I normally tune CGG but frequently go G by going to DGG . I tune my bass up one note and switch from 1-5-5 tab to 1-5-8. Any lower notes are on the bass string.

Try fiddling around with your tunings but remember to always keep the string you're tuning sounding. If it becomes to hard to change the note, stop tuning. The string will be stretched as far as it's limit.

I keep two dulcimers- one for the keys of D & C, the other for the keys of A & G. That avoids 'most' of the wear and tear in going back and forth excessively. My A/G dulcimer has a slightly shorter scale length so I can tune up to e when playing in A.

My noter/drone blog has some detailed posts about how I use tunings to play mostly in D, G, and A.

Do NOT crank the tuner on a non-vibrating string, any time you tune. Always pluck the string, and while it's singing make the change.

If it breaks, so what? You've got at least one spare set of strings, right?

Nick - "he plays Ddd..." I told ya so Because Ddd has the D drones and the Mixolydian scale starts on D it plays well in that key D. And because the Ionian (major) scale starts on G it plays they of G well too. I far prefer it to DGdd.

Hello Nick. Unless you have a very long scale dulcimer (VSL 28.5 " or over) you should be able to tune your 14 gauge string up to d . If you want to try Ddd, which is a very distinctive and lively tuning, and you are worried about the string feeling too tight you could try a 13.

Nick, I personally don't play in a droning style, so those who have already responded are more help than I can be. And they've also given you solid advice. In the key of D, DAd or DAA would be the most common tunings. In the key of G, DGd would work. And Ken's advice on bagpipe tuning might work in either case.

Another possibility, though one shunned by traditionalists, would be to use a capo. If you are tuned DAA or DAd, you can obviously play in D. With a capo a the 3rd fret you can play in G, and with a capo at the 4th fret you can play in A. The other common key would probably be C, and you could tune down a note to CGG or CGc for that.

The main advantage of using a capo (the fact that your fingering doesn't change as you change keys) is less important to drone players than to us heretical chord players, but you might consider the option if it doesn't offend your traditionalist sensibilities.

Your D&G drones are in the key of G. If you fret your melody strings in the key of D, the drones will clash somewhat, especially with certain melody notes. If you play with other instruments playing chords, the dissonance may become very unpleasant, in particular with certain chords. If you retune your drones to DA, the D scale melody strings will work better, but when you play a melody in G you will have the same problems. This is why we use certain tunings for certain keys. If you know you are playing a tune in G, use the DG drones, for the key of D, use the DA drones. Players of a diatonic instrument must adapt to the situation that presents itself. Adding a chord instrument to the mix makes this all the more important.

Paul

Nick - you might also want to give Bagpipe tuning a trial - Ddd. I find it works quite well for D and G tunes.

Moonshine, if you can venture out of Minneapolis, you can try this store:

Hobgoblin Music
920 State Hwy 19
Red Wing MN 55066

It is also known as Stoney End.

Or try:

Musicmaker's Kits
14525 61st St. Ct. N
PO Box 2117
Stillwater, MN 55082

They may have some completed dulcimers for sale.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Gabe - thanks for the testimony. Sounds like Mr. Gillian is a fine craftsman.

I've not heard of that maker. A "Thomas" dulcimer would be one modelled after those hourglass dulcimers made by "Uncle Ed" Thomas a well known builder back around the turn of the 19th to 20th century - Uncle Ed was born in 1850 and made something like 1500 dulcimers in his lifetime. A number of contemporary builders make replicas of Thomas dulcimers...

I can't find a thing about Gillian Thomas as a dulcimer maker. Gillian is a woman's name, of course. And if she's built more than a couple of instruments, she apparently does not have an Internet 'footprint' - no website or mentions. There is a nurse practitioner named Gilliam Thomas who lives in Winston-Salem. though .

Sorry I can't be of more help.

If you can contact the seller by phone, have him/her play the scale from fret 3-10 for you on the melody strings. If the scale sounds 'right' that's some indication that the fretboard is pretty accurate. Getting an unplayable Dulcimer Shaped Object is always a problem when buying on-line.

If this is your first dulcimer, I strongly recommend that you buy an instrument from a recognized maker - we can give you some names. AMong other reasons is that they will welcome a phone conversation so that they can play you some of their instruments so that you can hear what they're like. Aesthetics is the second reason to buy a particular dulcimer. Sound is the first.

A lot will depend on your choice of wood and style of play.

Mine is faced with beech, which is legendary for it's resistance to abrasion. It's had thirty odd years of regular use and shows little signs of wear, still more than serviceable. The frets on the other hand have been worn down to tram lines long ago.

Joy - you don't say how old it is, if you start with a brand new instrument then even the slightest sign of wear will show up immediately. Judge it after a few more years and you may see it differently.

john p

What a timely discussion this is for me to read! I've been playing for six months now and just a day or two ago I was pointing out to my husband the visible wear on my favorite dulcimer. I wasn't sure what is considered "normal" wear and tear so it looks like I need to take a look at how I am strumming and how I'm holding my pick. You all are such a wonderful resource!

Another "less damaging" strum technique is to not hold your hand (and the pick) rigidly at right angles to the strings (even with only a 1/$' sticking out), but rather rotate the wrist and the "attack angle" of the pick so that it hits the strings at an angle: \ or / not |

Play slower - don't necessarily try to keep up with a bunch of speed deamons. Develop your speed in your own time, don't be pushed. Better to play slower and correctly than fast and sloppy...

On more suggestion I heard discussed at a festival. A new player was asking the workshop leader "how to hold the pick" and the leader replied that you should "choke down on the pick" until you have maybe a 1/4 inch or maybe a little more with the tip sticking out kind of at an angle rather than straight down and play that way. It would certainly limit the length of pick that would be entering the string area. Maybe someone else has some ideas. I love this forum - the sharing helps all of us. Linda

I agree with Wayne about the pointless picks. I also was tearing my fretboard up with the way I was coming down on it with the herdum (sp?) picks and their "point". Since I changed to the pointless (round picks), I haven't seen that kind of damage. I also started ordering dulcimers with fret boards that have really hard wood overlay on the fret board for those I use for strumming. One thing to realize - it took me a awhile to get used to using those round picks - in fact it took a couple of weeks to really feel like I was as comfortable (hitting the strings like I wanted to) with the round ones as opposed to the pointed picks. But, I haven't gone back so that tells you something. One added note: David Schnaufer's model for McSpadden has a pick guard on the sound board because David wore a hole in his dulcimer from coming down on it with the pick so don't feel too badly. And, when Aubrey Atwater came to the Lone Star State Dulcimer festival in Granbury TX last year, she held a couple of workshops. The dulcimer she was using had two grooves worn in her dulcimer so deep it looked like someone had carved it out with a knife and the sound board had an 8-inch long crack in it. She explained the fret board as a result of her aggressive playing. Hope you find a solution to your quest. Linda

Changing the type of pick you are using and especially how much of it extends from your fingers should help. The pick needs to strike the strings not the fret board.

How long instruments last depends a lot on the materials used and style of play. Stuff like do you use a noter, how hard the fret wire is, what the fingerboard is faced with etc.
One of my instruments has been played daily for 30 odd years and the frets are down to tram lines now, it's long overdue for a re-fret but never quite get round to it.
OTOH, the fingerboard is done with steamed beech and renowned for it's resistance to wear, it's marked but not at all worn.

In the end, how does it play for you, I think the reason I keep putting off the re-fret is because it's so comfortable to play(I use a finger).

If it becomes difficult to play or fret cleanly, you can easilly have it refretted and/or refaced if you think the instrument is worth it. (excessive wear after six months sounds a bit suspect though)

john p

Concerned? Not really. You should perhaps wipe it down with a damp ag to get off the finger goo. How is the "fretboard worn? Is the shiny finish gone? Are the frets actually worn, or just polished? If you are damaging the finish or the wood on the fretboard, you really should learn to not scrape the fretboard with the pick. That's just a matter of fine control of your hand position. There is a Group here about things to do to care for your dulcimer. It sounds as if your fretboard could use a wiping of an oil such as Fast Fret or Dr. Duck's Ax Wax.

If you are still looking, may 15, 2015 on ebay: Good Luck

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BEAUTIFUL-HANDCRAFTED-MOUNTAIN-DULCIMER-by-David-Honea-27-1-2-VSL-/121648015351

HANDCRAFTED MOUNTAIN DULCIMER by David Honea 27-1/2" VSL

built overfive hundred Dulcimers over the last many years.

Each of my instruments have3 light coats of shellac.They are signed,dated and numberedon the inside and can be viewed through the soundhole.

The sides, head and tail piece are Maple.

The fret board isCherry and MaplewithMapleposition dots.

The soundboardand back arebook-matchedWestern Red Cedar.

This instrument is made of allsolid wood----no plywood.

Instrument #562

Instrument measures5-1/2" at the widest point. 2" thick. The vibratingstring length (VSL)is 27-1/2" from nut to bridge. Overall length is 33-1/2". It also has 6-1/2 and 13-1/2 fret.

It is tuned to D A A A.

I've seen his dulcimers advertized there before. I think he only sells through EBay and perhaps locally in Georgia. With a 31.5" VSL you'd better have BIG hands if you want to chord it; or play Noter & Drone style where a long VSL isn't much of a poblem.

Mandy, I love that video too!

I also loooove Aubrey Atwater!

Ok, just found this and I think it should come back.

Here's one of my fav's from our own Sarah Morgan playing My Dearest Dear. This moves me so much. The tune, along with what Sarah puts into it make for a moving experience.

Hi - Here's Aubrey Atwater playing Spanish Lady:

Well...I don't know about any "big time" on the horizon, but I really appreciate y'all for all of the encouragement through the process. THAT was pretty "big time" as far as I'm concerned!

Thanks Joy! I really appreciate those gals egging me on at the time.

That's great, John. Very silly and a lot offun.

I hope this makes sense to y'all...the one I want to post as a "favorite" isn't a "favorite" because it entertains me the most...it's because it's the song encouraged by Geekling and Strumelia many months ago when I was trying to learn how to play dulcimer and sing at the same time. Their encouragement made a HUGE difference for me and will forever be appreciated! It's silly (of course), but it has really opened some doors and I offer my sincere thanks to them for making me see it through.

I love the Fisher's Hornpipe and hearing David Schnaufer play. My daughter and I used to crank up this version (on CD) when we lived in a duplex years ago and there were, lets just say, inappropriate noises coming from the teenager who lived on theother side. We had some real boot-stompin' laughs with this tune. Thanks for bringing back some very fond memories for me!!

Bruce playing with the Seeger Sessions is a pretty good party, but so is this, which begins with a dulcimer: