Forum Activity for @hugssandi

I love the classics, userno4!  ~that's all great stuff~

I'm not sure if this is but so helpful, because this is vastly smaller in size than what you're asking, but I have fallen in love with my 17" Feather Dulcimer.  I loved playing my Walnut Creek, too, but there were songs I never could get that I seem to just play out of the blue now.  That makes me think a 26.5" (and I see you added 25") might be beneficial to some.

I don't know nearly as much as the others here, but my opinion is that sometimes beginners are not ready to commit to paying a lot.  Some who are more professional and perform a lot tend to get/need higher end dulcimers for concert settings and better quality sound from what I've read, though I've not experienced what that means.  I don't see myself there, so for whatever I perform (church) mine are just fine!

I like a 27" vsl the best. 28 1/2" is also good. I play noter/drone and I find these to be the most comfortable for the way I play.

Steven

Yes, it looks a lot like that, so I'd say, that's it. I haven't measured my instrument, and I'm not sure the description of the wood is an exact match — it's hard to tell if the bridge and the neck are the same wood; maybe it's just a difference in the grain — but it does seem to be the same. Same tailpiece. Same tuners. Same f note holes and same arched bridge, plus of course the contrasting light and dark colors. Mine has an extra screw at the end for holding a strap, and it has only three strings (through slots for four), plus of course the 1.5 fret, but these three differences are easily explained as after-market changes. 

 I can see where ' Herco Thumb-Flat pick.'  wouldn't be dropped but if the pain is from the strum itself the pressure used would still cause pain. I also have thumb pain where the thumb joins the waist. I wear a strap for my thumb & it helps but ... I find herdim triple sided nylon picks are large so easier to hold and easy on the strings to strum, not causing undo stress in the strum or stress on the thumb.

Good luck

 If a dulcimer has good action & a sound you like, why would it be a beginner dulcimer and not just a dulcimer, part of our collection of different dulcimers?

I have hear some say they have a 'beginner dulcimer'- I'm sure price of a dulcimer is part of starting out & some dulcimers do sell for less than others. But is a dulcimer a 'beginner dulcimer' or are we beginner players and couldn't the dulcimer be fine for later when we are more advanced?

When does a dulcimer become more advance or professional, what should we look for as we begin to advance in our dulcimer journey?

Yeah, a more correct placement may require making a third cut between fret 1 and 2. But I'm not sure I want to spend the money for that. And it does seem to tune within my tolerances. 

Looks like a Roosebeck to me Grace Mountain model

.......check it out on Amazon.

The 1.5 fret should be just slightly closer to the 2 fret than to the 1 fret...because the space between note steps get closer together slowly as you go towards the bridge.  Looking at your photo, the luthier at the string shop was absolutely right- someone did a poor job installing that 1.5 fret -it's not in the right place at all.  Plus in the side view it looks like they may have made two attempts with a fret saw.  To reinstall that fret in the right place will also require some repair of the fretboard cut(s) where the current fret is removed. 

I'm a strummer and practice/play at least an hour each day.  I also play with 2 groups a week which amounts to 2 hrs each of playing with them. 
So I think I stressed my hands a couple weeks ago.  The 10 min I referred to was just to start playing again,  I never heard of the Herco thumb flat pick but will definitely look into it.

Thank you for responding.  If the pain persists, I definitely will consult a doctor.

Thanks friends- I am tossed up between a 26.5 and a 25". Thanks for sharing your choices and why.

What style of right hand are you using -- strum, fingerpick, flatpick?  How many hours per day/week are you playing?  You say only 10 minutes a day, but if that's so, the injury is not related to your dulcimer playing.  If it persists for another few days make an appointment with at least your GP, if not a specialist.   If you are strummer, look up the Herco Thumb-Flat pick.

I really don't think you'll notice any difference between 27 and 26.5 -- look at the spacing tables, the differences are pretty tiny.  I prefer longer scales --27-28"; I've played a 32" and it was HUGE!  I've played a 20" and it was too cramped.

UserNo4 said "Another problem (perhaps) is that the luthier at the string shop said the 1.5 fret was installed too close to the 1 fret; it should have been closer to fret 2."

It may be called a half fret, but it isn't exactly half way between the 1st and second fret.  The location can be calculated if you know the exact VSL (distance between the inside of the nut and the inside of the bridge).  There are any number of fret-spacing calculators that will give you the precise location if you know the VSL.  

Using your electronic tuner you should be able to tell if the existing 1+ fret is in the right position. For a given open string tuning, you know what note that the 1+ fret should be -- check it with your tuner; it should be right on or perhaps a couple cents either way.

My 9-year-old daughter and I are listening to an audio version of "Anne of Avonlea" when I drive her home from school. We've already been through "Anne of Green Gables," and before that, "A Wrinkle in Time" and "A Swiftly Tilting Planet." I just finished listening to "The Lion, Witch, and Wardrobe," which I read decades ago in college. I'm not sure if I should go onto the next in the series or start up "Pride and Prejudice," which my daughter is almost finished reading through. In the fall, I listed to the space trilogy of C.S. Lewis as well as "The Great Divorce" and "The Abolition of Man." 

I do READ, and read nonfiction, but that's a start.

Someone suggested I find the builder of the dulcimer if I'd like to add a fret to. The label inside says "Sylvan Music, Harbor Springs, Mich." It's dated 2-9-11 (so no antique here) and has a serial number. It also has the signature "Michael Sanderson." I found two online references to him leading a workshop at a folk festival in his region of Michigan, but that's it. 

Is anyone familiar with his work or how to contact him? On occasion, I get to that part of the country, so I might be able to return the instrument to its maker and see if he would put in that fret for me. 

I have small hands for a man plus a deformed pinky on my fretting hand (left) and prefer 26.5 or less.

I usually use 26.5. I have a 22 1/4 that I play most of the time lately.

I've added frets to my dulcimers and some other folks dulcimers. So far the only difference I've noticed is in the appearance of the fret board, not in how they sound or look overall. All of them sound the same as they did before the added frets were installed. I don't play using a noter though and usully use hammer-on's instead of slides. So fo me adding frets is very much a personal preference. Besides you can always have some of each.😆

Just wondering, with all of the various sizes an styles of dulcimers out there, what is your favorite VSL / Finger Board length between bridge and nut?

I have been making 27 inchers and think I might try a 26.5 inch one on my new dulcimer (less finger stretching...)

Excellent point, Kevin.  Also, McCoy Tyner (jazz pianist) wrote a piece "Mode for Dulcimer."  In all the pictures I've been able to find of him playing a dulcimer it's one with no extra frets.  

Mountain dulcimer for me is my newest instrument.  Until then I played chromatic fretted instruments, guitar, banjo, mandolin, etc.  So my first thought when I got a dulcimer was that I would not find much versatility with it and would eventually want extra frets added.  But I've since come to the belief that it's diatonic for a reason.  It's a, dare I say, "simple" folk instrument created to be played by anybody.  Hence adding frets takes away from the simple folky charm of the instrument to the point where it won't be a dulcimer anymore.  Mine has no added frets and I don't miss the "missing" frets.  I work with it in the way it was intended as far as the fingerboard is concerned, capo, change tuning, etc.  Just sayin'.

A week ago my rt hand thumb hurt so bad I couldn't play.  It's mostly in the joint and meaty part of the thumb.  I could not hold a pick. No, I do not have a death grip on the pick.  So I did not play for about 5 days, did alternative heat and ice.  It's only so-so. I play for maybe 10 minutes a day.  But the thumb is still sore and I don't want to stress it anymore.

Anyone else have these issues and what suggestions do you have. Dulcinina

For the record, here's a top-side view of the dulcimer. I have no idea who built it, so if for some reason someone recognizes it, I'd appreciate a comment.

The yellow spots you see on the top side of the fretboard are tiny pieces of post-it notes I had in place at one point. 

 Dulcimer 1.jpg - 105KB

I prefer having a 1.5 and 6.5 fret but that's just me. But I will say that having someone other than the original builder might cause problems. Here's a close-up of the fretboard with fret 1 (left) and 1.5 (right). The other frets on the board resemble the fret on the left.

Another problem (perhaps) is that the luthier at the string shop said the 1.5 fret was installed too close to the 1 fret; it should have been closer to fret 2.

 Frest 1 and 1.5.jpg - 54KB

This thread is great! I can't wait to dig in!

Well, I hadn't intended to get involved in this new conversation, but....  here goes.

After playing for 4 months now only on dulcimers with no extra frets (not even a 6 1/2) I am more and more convinced they are not necessary.  In fact I even bought a used Jeremy Seeger just because it had no extra frets.  Just listen to Dan Evans and Robert Force and hear the creativity that comes from no extra frets.  Robert Force and Michael Rugg, do not re-tune but used DAd tuning. (Michael Rugg in an email to me in 2015 said he still prefers an instrument without a 6 1/2 fret.)  Dan Evans and Roger Nicholson do/did re-tune though playing mostly in DAA.  I do too, though I don't think I can put myself in their league.  I am enjoying the instrument as much or more than ever without extra frets.  As an aside, I am playing mainly on 3 strings now, as I only have one 4 independent string with no extra frets.  I think I can see 4 strings no extra frets would give more possibilities than 3 strings and extra frets.

George, Bear Meadow does indeed have a "removeable fret system" called Flexi -fret.  It does require installing a permanent small brass channel at each fret position, into which a fret is slide when required.  You router a 3/32" groove across the fretboard at the desired location, and install his special brass channel in that groove   So if you want/don't want say the 1+ fret, there will be a flush-mounted brass channel at that position, which does not interfere with fretting until a fret is slid into that location.  Chck Dwayne's website for pricing.

I had indeed at one point considered adding the extra frets to my "historic" dulcimers, a couple anyway. But in the end left them as is, The ones I added to after the fact were done by the original builders of the instrument as well, I still felt it may detract to have someone else add them. I also got luck and found a John Stockard original that he had added all the extra frets, ebony fret board etc.

 I also don't change out wood friction pegs either, and actually have come to appreciate them, (once I get the darned things tuned anyway)

 As of now, unless it is of historic value, I don't buy a dulcimer unless it does have the extra frets.

 Has anyone considered the "fret" that can be placed in those positions but removed as they are not permanent, thought I had heaard of something like that at one time, don't know what they are called, or perhaps it was just a "dulcimer dream".

 Bing Futch also has a short you-tube video on using a capo to change keys.  

Let me try that again with the link.

http://www.jcdulcimer.com/CapoesInstructions.pdf

Joe Collins has the following handout available for free online.  It may help you in understanding which keys are available with a capo.  I hope it is helpful.

I am someone who uses a 1+ fret everyday and wouldn't want to go without it. However, I agree fully with those who suggest that historic dulcimers should be left as is.  If you want to add a 1+ fret to a McSpadden that's a few years old, as George did, by all means, go ahead.  But if you have an older dulcimer without any extra frets, you might want to leave it as is and restore it rather than change it.  I don't think Ken's mustache on the Mona Lisa is an accurate image, but perhaps adding some enhanced coloring to the painting would be.  Either one would detract from the original rather than enhance it.

Dana, instead of trying to read and understand, just play and feel.  Play a simple song on your dulcimer. Then put the capo at the third fret and try to play it again. It will work, but you will be in a higher register.  Then, perhaps put the capo at the first fret and try again. It won't work.

In the same way that you need different fingering when you switch tunings, you need different fingerings when you use a capo, with the (partial) exceptions of the third and fourth frets.

Sometimes this stuff makes more sense when you play and get a feel for it rather than try to understand it first. And even if you decide you don't like playing with a capo, you should still have a feel for how it works.

Why would you want to know this?  

reason 1: Dulcimer players almost always play in D, but other folk musicians often play in C, G, and A as well.  If you are in a multi-instrument jam, you will want to know how to play in those keys as well. What if you're in a playing circle and someone calls out "Angelina Baker" in the key of G.  You could try to figure it out in your regular tuning, you could retune to DGD and try to figure it out there, or you could slap on the capo at the third fret and play the song exactly the way you played it before, but you will now be in the key of G, just like everyone else.

reason 2: Do you sing?  Despite what some people say about certain keys rather than others working for their voices, it is the tonal range of the melody that determines whether a tune fits your voice.  I can sing some songs in D.  Other's I can't for the life of me.  But if a song doesn't work for my voice in D, it probably will in G or A.  Truth be told, I have a baritone dulcimer that I tune to G or A, but if I'm not home and want to sing one of those songs, I just put the capo on 3 for G or 4 for A and I can sing the song.  Again, the fingering for the chords is the same that I would have used in D, but the capo puts me in a different key.  If I get a chance I'll put a video together to demonstrate this.

A while back I wrote this piece that I've attached called "Strumming in Various Keys out of a DAd Tuning."  I'm sure it was in response to a question here or one posed by my local dulcimer group, but I can't remember.  Maybe you'll find it helpful.

strumming in various keys out of DAd tuning.pdf - 22KB

You took the words right off my fingertips, Ken.  I was trying to compose a post saying the same thing basicley,  I'm in awe of your

'word smithy-ness'

HA!  This sounds great!  

UserNo4:  Post your photos in a discussion in the General Group, probably.

You touched on, not off, a deeply philosophical debate (not a religious debate)  There are indeed people who buy and collect truly old (pre-1960s), truly rare and collectible dulcimers because they are what they are: a piece of musical history. Those people look at their collection (and invite others to do so) as well as play them periodically -- in the manner intended by the original builder.  They want to keep the old dulcimers original, not "tart them up" with all sorts of modern innovations like geared tuners, extra frets, etc.

Then there are others who would buy the Mona Lisa and paint a mustache on her just because they think it looks, cool and hip and modern.

My feeling is that if you like the looks of an old collectible dulcimer, but want it to have all the modern bells and whistles, you (and the dulcimer community as a whole) would be better served by finding one of the many fine dulcimer builders here or elsewhere, and have a replica of the old instrument made with all those "mod-cons" like built in acoustic pickups, geared tuners, extra frets, etc.   The replica will probably cost the same or less as a collector's item, and being new construction will take the abuse of modern playing styles much better.