Forum Activity for @ken-hulme

Tuner beads DO work, even in a short area (depends on the size of the bead and angle of string slope.  Flat sided beads are best.  You can even carve tapered wedges similar to a reverse capo to fit between the bridge and the place where the string breaks over the end (or meets the pin).

Sounds like a plan. Thank you so much, Greg!

I don't have any experience with round beads, but I would assume they would not work as well because only a small amount of the underside of the bead would be in contact with the fretboard, so the bead would be more likely to slip.  As far as the length of the string between bridge and tailpiece, one-inch seems kind of short for effective use of tuning-beads.  The only way to know for sure is to give it a try.  Round and oval beads are inexpensive and you are not making any irreversible changes to your dulcimer by trying.  Try it on one string to see what happens.  If the bead holds and it can be wedged toward the tailpiece to make small changes in tuning, that's all you need.

Thank you, Greg! Actually, it was a photo of a Keith Young dulcimer that my friend inherited from her mother that reminded me to ask about the beads. My dulcimer does have the old friction tuning pegs (and might need some peg dope on one, too!) but there is only about 1" to 1 1/4" between the bridge and the tailpiece. (And yes, the strings angle down to the tail.) Would beads work in such a short space, I wonder? The distance between the two looks a bit longer on the Young dulcimer.

Also, I've seen both square and round beads ... does the shape make a difference? Just thinking round would be easier to locate.

Actually, most fine-tuning beads are simply very small blocks of wood with a hole drilled through the center.  They are placed on the string between the bridge and the tailpiece and require a string that angles downward slightly from the bridge to the tailpiece.  The tuning bead slides up and down the string.  The main idea is to wedge the tuning bead between the string and the fretboard as the angle of the string takes it closer to the fretboard.  As the tuning bridge is wedged between string and fretboard it increases the tension on the string slightly allowing one to fine-tune the string.  Tuning beads are normally associated with instruments utilizing wooden friction pegs, which can be difficult for beginners to tune.  Guitar-style geared tuning pegs and planetary pegs do not need tuning beads.  If you want to see examples of wooden tuning beads, try googling an image of a Keith young dulcimer.  Tuning beads were a standard feature of Keith's mountain dulcimers.

I don't know whether this is the correct forum for such a question, but friends, this newbie needs your advice!

I've been playing very tentatively with the tuning on my vintage 3-string hourglass dulcimer, which has wooden friction pegs, and I'm wondering whether fine tuner beads would help. I would like to add them if they are appropriate for this style of dulcimer. Where would I get some? Are they just regular wooden beads?

Soooooo many questions ... :)

Many thanks.

i remembr bert berry.  he ordered beginner books from  me a dozen at a time to give his customers when they bought a dulcimer.  i never met

him but we talked on the phone once a year or so.  he was very nice and we had interesting conversations.  i don't think he made a lot of

instruments.  finding one for sale would be a great find

Hearts of the Dulcimer Podcast - Episode 23
Richard Fariña and the Cambridge Folk Music Scene Part 2: A Conversation with Ed Freeman

http://bit.ly/hotdpodcast

Ed Freeman was part of the Cambridge folk music scene in the early 60s and interviewed Richard and Mimi Fariña on his radio show in 1965. We spoke with Ed about this and much more.

For episode resources, go to:  http://dulcimuse.com/podcast/resource/023.html

Hearts of the Dulcimer Podcast - Episode 22
Richard Fariña and the Cambridge Folk Music Scene Part 1: A Conversation with Rick Turner

http://bit.ly/hotdpodcast

The well-known luthier Rick Turner shares personal stories about Richard and Mimi Fariña and how his luthier skills led him to become part of dulcimer history that was almost forgotten

For episode resources, go to:  http://dulcimuse.com/podcast/resource/022.html

In grades 4-6 I was in a brand new school (Claxton Elem. for those of you in Greensboro, NC!) and each classroom was equipped with a piano and there was a set of music books for each grade level.  Since we'd never had music classes in elem. school, I loved it when our teacher would say it was time to pass out the books and sing!  I already knew a lot of songs from Girl Scouts and all the songs I'd sung with my family, but I loved learning the ones in these books--Streets of Laredo, the Orchestra Song that someone else mentioned, lots of songs from other countries, as well as many rounds and duets...White Coral Bells, Tell Me Why, Scotland's Burning, Sing Your Way Home.

John, I would have loved being in your music class!  Those little kids are so lucky!

There are only a handful of mentions of Bert Berry dulcimers, here, of ED and on Facebook.   The last interaction I can find is 2013, when member Bill Mosely here, wrote about learning dulcimer building from him.   There is no website, and no Facebook page.

More ways to see it:

If you are tuning to DAd, it'd be from low to high :  D3, A3, d4.

https://dulcimer-noter-drone.blogspot.com/2010/12/what-notes-do-i-tune-my-strings-to.html

On a standard 88 key piano, middle C is C4. Middle C has a frequency of 261.63 Hz. Yamaha uses C3 because that corresponds to MIDI note 60.When the note is pressed, you are actually playing a frequency of 261.63 Hz. If you set your tuner to A=440 Hz. As Dusty says, the D is below middle C, A below middle C, and d above middle C if you tune DAd.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Perhaps this page from Get Tuned will help.  Your low D is the D below middle C and your middle string is tuned to the A below middle C.

Rob, 4 strings with 6 notches makes a lot of sense to me. 

Jennifer, I don't have an Em from high spirits, but I think they are about the same size, I have one from Ancient territories, it's maple and the holes are smaller but the spacing is the same, Em is my favourite key..they're all great!!

As for Wood I have a condor bass Cm in walnut. really nice

We have "regular" Condor basses in various keys (even the smaller bore size).  Once you get used to the extra stretch beyond a smaller flute stretch it's really no big deal.  Have fun and enjoy the process!

I started with four independent strings.  Then I got a couple with doubled melody and started using them.  Folks told me I should take one off, so I did on a couple.  Then I saw videos of the late David Schnaufer and of Alan Freeman playing with a doubled melody, so I put them all back.  I don't know; maybe it's because I played guitar and mandolin before the dulcimer, but I have none of the problems with hammer-ons and pull-offs.  That being said, since this is my year of no extra frets and my trying to embrace Roger Nicholson's style more I am playing 2 instruments with 3 strings, as did he.  For playing with the band I do prefer 4 independent strings. So, I'd say do a four string with 6 notches on the bridge and nut, so it can be configured in many different ways.

Sometimes questions are posed at the wrong time and get covered up by other recent activity.  

I played with a double melody string for a few years, arrogantly assuming that because I also play the mandolin and 12-string guitar I could ignore all those people suggesting I remove the extra melody string. But now I see the error of my ways.  I only play with three strings now, and my favorite dulcimer is m Modern Mountain Dulcimer partly because it only has three strings and somehow seems more streamlined that way.  I find a single melody string just provides a much cleaner sound, and as others have pointed out, a single string is easier for hammer-ons and pull-offs.  Plus,it is impossible to accurately bend a double string.

It can't hurt to build dulcimers with four strings in case people want to play with 4 equidistant strings.

Thanks Monica!

Susie I bought mine here..considerably less, but you may have to wait a few weeks for them to order it.

http://www.grothmusic.com/c-497-native-american-flutes.aspx

Thanks Monica! And also to  Maria and John. Your insights really helped! Now I'll decide on timing. Gotta wait and see what's on sale in March. 

Hi Susie , its about 1 and 3/4..It's very easy and comfortable to hold.I really believe you will be able to play it with ease considering your musical experience and height

Thanks Monica and John. Very nice videos. 

John, I'm not considering the contra, just the condor bass Em. Just can't decide between the standard bore and the 1" bore. But, it sounds like the standard bore would be just fine for me. Do you guys have a standard bore condor (not contra) bass?

Monica, sounds like you are handling it without issue. Did you remeasure the outside diameter (1.2" didn't seem right to me)? Thanks.

Mostly I prefer a single melody string - for melody/drone style and for more "modern" styles (cross-picking, melody notes on lower strings etc).  I like the clarity of a single treble string, and the even-ness of tone compared to the other strings.

We have visited this topic before - it's one of those that comes up every so often and is always worth debating.

Thanks Jill!  We tend to have fun!

The only thing that I would caution about would be a Condor Contra Bass flute.  My wife (Karen) has been a professional flute player and teacher since the 1980s.  The holes are so large that her fingers go straight into them without stopping to seal the holes.  The spread between the holes can also be a challenge for people with smaller hands.  I haven't run into many folks who have this problem with the regular Condor Bass series, but I know that some like the smaller bore better for comfort reasons.  Here's a video that starts with me using the contra bass.  You'll probably be able to tell that I'm working pretty hard to manage the beast, but they have such a wonderful low voice. 

I say try the larger size, no squawking and fuller deeper tone..I am 5.3'..and have skinny fingers and have no problem at all..you can always return /exchange if it doesn't work for you. 

I am playing the condor bass C in this video..which if anything is slightly larger than the D

Thanks Monica. That outside measurement (1.2") seems like the same as the outside measurement of those with the 1" bore......1.25". I'm talking the outside of the wood. Is it really 1.2" for the standard condor bass?

Thanks for the pics and info. Now I can't decide between the standard bore (will have to confirm measurements) and the 1" bore like Maria's.

My new project is a 5 string dulcimer with double melody string. Its my first at this style. The body is 2 1/4" deep so it should be nice and full sounding.

Played with double melody strings for 4 years.  Changed recently to single string which I find considerably easier for finger picking, hammer ons and pull offs.  My wife changed to single string for the same reason especially because she is really into finger picking.

I build with 4 tuners, play using 3 strings. It allows double melody, 4 equidistant or single melody string setups.

That particular thread may have no responses but the subject matter is often mentioned/debated on these pages.  My own opinion is that it is a personal preference item.  I have and play both and notice very little difference.  If the dulcimer has mechanical tuners I tend to like the double melocy, wooden tuners, single melody.

Unless I'm doing a reproduction of an older dulcimer, I make them four string. My personal preference for playing is 3 string. It's easier to do hammer ons and pull offs on a single string.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

This question was asked a couple years ago without any responses.  I, being a new builder/player, would like to pose the same question.  I have looked and have found very little discussion on this topic and look forward to hearing from those with more experience.  Bottom line it may be simply a matter of 'personal preference' but I would like to hear others opinions: Single or double melody strings? 

http://fotmd.com/strumelia/group_discuss/1294/personal-preference-question-on-stringing

Good to know. Thanks Ken 

I buy their bulk Guitar (for ball end) or Loop End strings -- 12 in a sleeve IIRC, of a specified gauge and end type (ball or loop)  -- plenty  long

Susie the outside measures over 1.2.   I recommend the larger bore it has a fuller deeper sound . I am a small person and I have no problem. The condor bass D is aromatic Cedar and the Bass C is walnut. I also have a condor bass B that is spanish cedar ..it's a lot more challenging to play the holes are larger and further apart..but doable. I also recommend you check out Ancient Territories I have a couple of his flutes..beautiful craftsmanship and sound.in the photos starting from the left High spirits Condor bass B,C,D , Gm and Em 432 from atflutes.com

 IMG_0866.JPG.jpg - 157KB

Ken H, I'm about to buy bulk strings from JustStrings, and found you answered my question 2 yr's ago! I wasn't sure which instrument string length would be a crossover for the dulcimer, but Banjo it is.