Forum Activity for @kathreen-miller

This is brilliant, Dusty!  Thanks ever so much. 

Kathreen

Very nice article, thanks for posting.

44

Hi Kathreen,

Your question is a good one, and one that has a simple mathematical answer.  If you know the alphabet from A to G and can count to 7, you can transpose from one key to another.

If we start with D as 1, count to A.  D = 1, E = 2, F# = 3, G = 4, and A = 5.  So to move from a chord in D to a chord in A, you just count up that same amount, starting with 1 and counting up to 5.

For the main I, IV, and V chords . . .

Your chords for D in the key of D will be A in the key of A.

Your chords for G in the key of D will be D in the key of A.

Your chords for A in the key of D will be E in the key of A.

And for the relative minor chords . . . 

Bm in the key of D will be F#m in the key of A.

Em in the key of D will be Bm in the key of A.

F#m in the key of D will be C# minor in the key of A.

Does that help?  There is no reason to seek a chord chart. The chord positions are all the same ones you already know.

Some years ago I made the chart below for the most common keys in folk and old timey music.  Perhaps you'll find it helpful.

You might enjoy this short article:
https://www.cincinnatiearlymusic.com/rebec_rebuild.html

Hello, All --

I'm not exactly sure how to ask my question, but here goes.

I learned to play in the key of D, DAA.  I now have my dulcimer tuned to AEE.  I use the chord shapes for DAA (for instance, a G), but, being in the key of A, the resulting chord is not a G but something else - and I don't know how to make that translation, how to determine what chord it is in A.

I have the opportunity to jam this weekend and am concerned that when prompted to play a certain chord, I'll have no idea what it corresponds to in D to be able to play it.

Does any of this make sense?  I haven't been able to find any chord charts that include the key of A.

I'd appreciate any guidance at all!

Thanks,

Kathreen

The local fiddlers faire has said he will give me some ebony pegs and a tailpiece that I can use. Gut strings will be next then make a bow. How many horsehairs will be sufficient? 3/8” bundle? What wood works best for a bow? Bridge?

thanks for resizing, I was at a loss to explain.

44

Thank you, Strumelia.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

In the meantime, i downsized that photo to make things easier.  ;)

Thanks for the photo, XLIV. As you can see it is too large to show the entire instrument. You might try resizing your photo and reposting it. I usually post my mine at 8 x 10 inches or 5 by 7, but sometimes my mind slips and I post them at 8 1/2 by 11.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

it needs pegs, nut, tailpiece and bridge (they were broken). Finger board unglued. The top is cracked and coming unglued from body possibly from sound post being a little too tall. Someone put a lot of time hollowing body from one piece. I hope to repair using hide glue and making a horse hair bow. Winter project.

44

Please post some photos of the unfinished rebec project. I assume you want to finish the project. I'll offer what advice I can after I see what you have. Sounds like an interesting undertaking. 

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Hi folks, new to hobby. I found an unfinished rebec project at a yard sale. I realize this is an old thread but thought I might glean some advice from those more familiar with this instrument. If it gets some hits I’ll post some pics.

44

Alex, I read with interest the description of your album in the link you provided- the combination of dulcimer player, singer, and Victorian era woman writer in your album seems like it would be a very unique and compelling interplay.

Sorry, I've been traveling all day.  The discoloration at the 6.5 fret is exactly that.  Either Dad or my older brother (I blame Tom) took a thin wire and held it down with some electrical tape and used that as a 6.5.  I just haven't gotten around to deciding how to clean the residue yet.

As for the slot, it doesn't bother me but it's definitely a curiosity.  It was definitely cut with precision.  The side profile shows a squared channel, identical in profile, width and depth to the other frets, so that's what piqued my interest.  To be fair, I don't know who the luthier was and there's no label inside the soundbox that I can find, but it was definitely ordered in Townsend, TN around 1980 or 1982.  I know Sam Carrell was still making instruments at that time and was overwhelmed with orders, so he enlisted some help.  Maybe an apprentice cut the slot?  I also think that was about the time when Mike Clemmer was getting started.  Maybe it was an early build and a mistake was made?  Either way, It never seemed to affect the sound or the playability, so I'll just call it "character."

There may have been more luthiers in Townsend at that time, but I don't recall any others.  All I can say for sure is that we picked it up in the little dulcimer shop next to "Nawger Nob" if that means anything to anyone.

Jonathan

(Also, thanks to everyone for all the positive responses and words of encouragement.  Sometimes "enthusiasts" can be snobs, but not in the dulcimer world it seems!)

*Edit:  I just took a macro photo of the side profile.  I couldn't see this with my reading glasses, but it seems as if the slot actually was filled. it looks like its just worn away a bit.

 E63589C0-7597-4BF2-ADB0-BC0360E4DE79_1_201_a.jpg - 137KB

Could what appears to be a slot near the 6.5 just be discoloration of the wood? In the close up photo it doesnt look like those 'slots' go all the way across the width of the fingerboard. The dulcimer looks great, so it's hard to believe the original builder just left the slot unfilled. You could always put a fret in it and call it "microtonal" lol.

It was nice meeting you too! Ironically, I'm interested in the baritone partly because I DON'T play with other dulcimers usually. (Nobody around here!) It's attractive to have a dulcimer that can easily manage G or A, without capoing, along with my D-friendly dulcimer.

I did look at your YouTube videos and heard the difference between the 3 and 6 strings. I like the look of the hourglass shape so that's what I'd probably get. I've been researching and it seems like the red cedar is a really popular top. I'd been thinking spruce, but now I don't know.

Hi Carolyn. It was nice to meet you last month.

I can't remember if I told you, but in addition to the little dulcimette I shared with you, I also have a baritone dulcimette, which I actually prefer due to the extra sustain.  I originally requested a 6-string instrument, but I have been playing it with just 3 strings for the last several years.  With 6 strings it is great for strumming, but the 3-string configuration allows for more nuanced play.  It is tuned to G or A, so it is not always easy to play with other dulcimer players; that's why I took the dulcimette up to the Wallowas.

I think you'll have a great time playing your new instrument and figuring out which arrangements work best for it.  Good luck!

I'm 90% headed towards ordering a baritone dulcimette (Ron Ewing). I got to put hands on a dulcimette at camp last month (thanks, Dusty) and it was just too charming. I decided that a baritone version would work the best for me. Does anyone have opinions or input that would be helpful to me at this point?

Looking at a closeup of that mystery empty fret slot...

My thoughts:
A good luthier would never have put that extremely misplaced slot there in the first place, and even if they did, they would not have left the empty slot there after moving the fret to the right place. So, I think someone later on did this.
If you look closely, there are also indications that other fret slots had been cut and then filled, around where the 6.5 fret might go. Again, that job ldoes not look professionally done.

I'm thinking that 'somebody' who didn't know very much wanted to put in a 6.5 fret by themselves, and they misguidedly decided that frets 6, 6.5, 7, and 8 should all be equally spaced. So they yanked the original 7th fret out and put their new 6.5 and 7 frets in, equally spaced between the existing 6 and 8 frets. Perhaps they could hear that the 6.5 was not in the right place, and they yanked it out agin and filled the slot... but left their new 7th fret in place.

Then later yet, someone else (or maybe the same person again) realized that the (new) 7th fret was in the wrong place and it just wouldn't play in tune, so they pulled it out and put in a new 7th fret back in its original slot. But this time they didn't bother filling the empty slot.. too much trouble trying to hide it or match the color.

I do not think the luthier would have done any of this.

Hi Jonathan,
I am not going to be any help as far as your questions.  I just want to wish you all the best in your new adventure!  I have a dulcimer that my dad built and it is truly a treasure, as I am sure yours is too!  I look forward to hearing updates on how you are doing!  Above all - have fun!   🎶 😊

You're correct.  Strothers said 0.020", 0.010" and 0.013".  To be sure, I just ordered an assortment so that I'm sure to have something that feels and sounds good.  I really appreciate the help and the links!

Jonathan

I agree with Strumelia that 27" is pretty much "the normal/standard range for a dulcimer." If you haven't already done so, you might check out this site: https://dulcimercentral.com/gallier-dulcimers  

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Twenty-seven inches is my favorite VSL. I use 28.5 inches on dulcimers for noter playing. I think if you do the calculations on the Strothers calculator they won't be to far off from what I suggested. Restring that dulcimer. It deserves to be played and enjoyed.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

I have never heard of a tenor dulcimer. But what do I know. Is this instrument just a standard Starsong Dulcimer?

Here are better photos.  Just ignore the bath mat... That's the best light in this old house!  Also, the distance from bridge to nut is exactly 27".

Jonathan

 3B799C3E-8AD9-4C14-8B9B-5B836E00E281_1_201_a.jpeg - 318KB

That's just what I was thinking!  One of those aggravating "OOPS!" situations that happen to a builder from time to time.   The solution is to play it up somehow, with some decoration or a nameplate or something!  Then tell folks "that's the way it's SUPPOSED TO look!"

Well, that makes perfect sense.  I didn't even think of that.  And thanks for the compliment.  I'll have a better photo in a few hours.

Jonathan

Thanks for photos Jonathan. It looks like the builder may have miscalculated the placement of the seventh fret and moved it but never filled in the slot. Not sure what another reason would be. Your dulcimer looks nice.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Here is a better photo of the "mystery slot" for those who may be curious.

 2C88AC90-690B-4432-85C1-8C5CFF801719_1_201_a.jpeg - 201KB

I have skimmed through the article by Ken Hulme and it seems that this will answer most, if not all, of my questions.  Thanks for this!  I'll print it out when I get home and study it more closely.

I strongly suspect the dulcimer was made by Mike Clemmer or Sam Carrell.  It's elliptical, but Mom ordered it in Townsend, TN around 1980 or '82.  I don't know of any other luthiers from that time in Townsend.  I have an email in to Mr. Clemmer, but he keeps limited hours these days.  My main question for him is about a slot that has been cut in the finger board, so that's the only photo I have right now.  I'll take another when I get home.  As for the slot, it looks like it's for a missing fret that should be immediately past the 7th, but I can't figure out why a fret would be in that location.  It's more of a curiosity to me.

Also, Thanks for the string calculator.  I'l get a measurement this evening and plug that in.

 828A12C9-E74C-4CBF-9B92-9E988B1721A0_1_201_a.jpeg - 347KB

Jonathan, can you post a photo of your dulcimer? It may help us to better help you. Also, if you the maker of the dulcimer that would be helpful. Since your father played noter style, it makes sense to start learning in DAA. You double melody strings would be tuned to the A below middle C. The middle string would be the same. The next two strings would "d" and "D" respectively. The bass D, your thick string would be the D below middle C and the other "d" would be just above middle C.

Using 29 inches as the vibrating string length which you estimated to 28-30 inches, the "A" strings would be 0.012, the "D" string would be 0.018, and the high d 0.009. The Strothers string calculator tends to be "light" on string string suggestions so I would change the D to 0.020 and the d to 0.010. If those turn out to be to loose when tuned to pitch you could try 0.011 or 0.012 for the d and 0.022 for the D. You can find the calculator  here.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

I'm not Ken Hulme.I'm the other Ken. Here is the link to his article: https://fotmd.com/strumelia/group_discuss/2316/ken-hulmes-i-just-got-a-dulcimer-now-what-article  

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Thank you for the information!  I'm searching for it now.

JD, one of our members here, Ken Hulme, wrote a very helpful lesson on just such a situation. 

It's called "I Just Got A Dulcimer. Now What?"  He will no doubt be posting a message for you soon!

So, the information on the internet is only as good as the information people post online, and the google search results are only as good as the questions I ask it.  It seems that if a dulcimer is involved in the search term, I get answers that only confuse me more.

My oldest brother recently passed away and I'm now in possession of our father's dulcimer.  This is an instrument we were strictly forbidden to go near as children, so I understand very little about them.  I have figured out that the configuration would be referred to as a "5 string with double melody" and information on this setup seems lacking online.  Here are my big questions:

Is there any particular tuning that would best suit a complete novice?  I have read about DAD, DAA, etc, but nothing really explains what to do with the extra strings aside from the general consensus that the melodies are tuned the same.

If I try to tune the low string to D, I either end up needing to tune the melodies to an A that's way too high for their diameter or I have to tune the low string to a D that's way too low to even be considered a note.  More of a rattle than even a buzz, I suppose you could say.  Should this low string be tuned to A maybe?

Also, my father was a "noter," I think the term is, and that seems like a simple enough route to get started with.  My tuning questions are geared toward this playing style, if it helps.

I also have some questions about the strings themselves.  I know they are very old, possibly even original to the dulcimer.  If so, that puts them in the range of 45 years old, but I'm sure they're in need of replacement at the very least.  Without having the exact length of the finger board in front of me, would it be possible to get recommendations on sizes for new strings?  I do know the overall length of the instrument is 38.5" and would assume the distance between the nut and bridge to measure 28-30."  I ask, because the strings that are on it seem terribly small in diameter.  The melodies measure out at 0.009", progressing through to 0.010", 0.012" and 0.022" respectively.  Nothing online even mentions a string as thin as 0.009" so that has also added to my confusion.

I've been fascinated by this dulcimer, more so than any of his other instruments, since I was a small child when Mom had it made for him.  I'm eager to dive in and start learning, so any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Jonathan

It strikes me that a VSL scale length of 27" is in the normal/standard range for a dulcimer.

I understand.

Hi thanks for the suggestion, I have tried to contact him numerous times, hes not big on communicating so that's why I'm reaching out.

I would recommend contacting Gary Gallier to find out the specifics of your dulcimer. There should be some information if you look inside the sound hole to help him tell you more about your dulcimer.

Congratulations on finding and purchasing one of his dulcimers. It is rare to find one for sale.

I would recommend contacting Gary Gallier to find out the specifics of your dulcimer. There should be some information if you look inside the sound hole to help him tell you more about your dulcimer.

Congratulations on finding and purchasing one of his dulcimers. It is rare to find one for sale.

Let me know what you find out. I personally have never heard of a tenor dulcimer.

His website is dulcimercentral.com.

You have a true treasure there. My music mentor has one of Gary’s dulcimers. I have played it a couple of times. It has an amazing sound 

Hi kids have a question hopefully somebody out there can answer it has to do with a 

Gary Gallier Starsong Dulcimer. I was very fortunate to be able to pick up one of his instruments a little while ago; it was advertised as a tenor Starsong. “A Tenor” If this is the smaller "tenor" version of his normal instrument what size Dimensions is his normal starsong? This one  measurements are. 

Lower bout is 11"  Upper bout is 7.5"  Overall is 39" and the V.S.L. is 27"