Forum Activity for @ken-hulme

I agree with Rob. Standard Music Notation should be usable by dulcimer, guitar, mandolin, banjo, piano, flute etc. That's why it's calledstandard.

As a guitar player, too, I see no reason why dulcimer smn won't work for a guitar. Make sure the guitarist knows SMN, and isn't trying to read the tab.

One of my favorite things to do is what you did right there...good for you!

Thanks for the video's Mandy. You and the kids did a beautiful song and I think are excellent performers.

I love the enthusiasm of the children.

The kids made me do this twice. They are really singing along on the first clip above (which is the 2nd time through the song).

Awesome!!! I see the 4H banners and the 4H pledge. "I pledge my head to clearer thinking, my heart to greater loyalty, my hands to larger service and my health for better living for my club, my community, my country and my world" 4H is cool!!!! Thanks for the picture. Looks like you had lots of fun with the kids

What a wonderful opportunity for you and the kids, sounds fun.

Mandy which songs did you play for the kids?

James

Here are a few links to banjo style dulcimers that are available.

http://www.gardnersdulcimer.com/Page.aspx?id=130

http://www.clemmerdulcimer.com/store/index.php?route=product/category&path=60

http://www.mcspaddendulcimers.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=34

there are a few others available as well but these will give you a good idea of what they look and sound like.

Banjimer, banjomer, banjamer, bandjammer.... I don't think any of us who build them ever made plans.

Basic idea is a dulcimer body that is wide enough to take a small 'bongo' drum head or small tambourine in a location such that the location of the dulcimer's bridge will be at or near the center of the drum head. Rather than a standard dulcimer bridge, a taller banjo type bridge is used that sits directly on the drum head.

The top is cut away in a circle to allow the drum to set down into the body such that the head is just above the surface of the dulcimer. Once the body is glue up, the head is installed. The head can be fixed in place, or simply 'float' on a couple of braces.

I have an old Dixon based on the Shellnut teardrop that I believe is Korean made. I've seen DU-200 stickers on other Korean made instruments from the 70s.

I believe most builders would agree with Ken that wood type is a much more minor factor in determining the tone of a dulcimer than it is to the guitar family. That said, I would suspect that, other factors being equal, the dulcimer with the redwood top would have a slightly more mellow tone than that with the sycamore.

Hearing a dulcimer before purchase is certainly the better way to choose but, if that's not possible, Ken's advice is pretty solid.

lynn mc spadden once told me that different tops needed to be of a different thickness. i think he was right

The type of wood is pretty far down the list of things which affect the tone of a dulcimer. Not that those two dulcimers would not have two different sounds... just that the difference in top wood will be for all practical purposes, not distinguishable. Especially in this case since they both have the same wood for the back and sides.

IMHO buy the one that appeals to your eye.

I am curious to know the difference in tone of a walnut with redwood top and a walnut with spalted sycamore top.

Looks like someone took the fretboard off one newer crappy dulcimer, cut it to fit (without regard to losing half the space from the nut to the 1st fret ) and then glued it on this older dulcimer after pulling or sanding down the original fretboard.

IMHO it's completely unplayable. It's even rather hideous as a wall decoration. It should just be put out of its misery. Maybe save the peghead for some other project.

Here is my guess...

The person who cut the fret slots screwed up and used a much shorter VSL than the instrument should have had. Then they moved the bridge up to compensate and added a new strum hollow. It looks to me as if the slot is for a nut, there is no zero fret, and fret pattern other than having a stupidly short VSL for the instrument is probably OK but does not have a 6 fret and does have a 6+.

If someone wanted to use it as a project they should probably remove the fret board and start over. Or perhaps just cut it down enough to be below the current frets and then re-fret for a longer VSL and join the two strum hollows. That could be as little as an hour or so of work, but the cracks in the back would still be an issue. It probably wouldn't be worth it other than as a learning experience though.

If it actually had some historical significance or sentimental value, it might be worth saving, but that is not likely to be the case.

Actually, to my non-builder's eye, it seems if the fret after the nut is really a zero fret (which kind of makes sense because of the soundhole) then the fret pattern looks right. However, there is no 6 fret; there's a 6 1/2 fret. I have an older one from Michigan with that arrangement. David Schnaufer in his Dulcimer Times interview said he had found several really old ones that had that fret pattern to begin the major scale on the open string. That said, I still didn't bid on it.

I have to agree completely with Ken on this one. Look for something else, not worth the trouble.

Well, it looks like a very amateurish build. First off there are only 10 frets, and something doesn't look quite right about the spacing. Something doesn't look quite right about the Nut end of the fretboard either. The builder (or perhaps adder of the fretboard didn't seem to know what s/he was doing.

As far as multiple 'low spots', I think it might be an attempt to lighten up the overall weight. There' is 'way too much length aft of the nut, and that can cause some wolf overtones and other extraneous sounds. There are also cracks in the back

Thinking about it, it appears that that fretboard was added to a dulcimer which was perhaps salvaged, and this is an attempt by someone who knows nothing of dulcimers to 'flip' the instrument with a cheap fix.

Frankly I wouldn't touch it, if you gave it to me. Too much work to make it playable, and too expensive for a wall hanging DSO.

It could be a possum board accessory. I may tinker with that idea.

Has anyone ever discovered a music holder that slips under the MD and is held in that way? I would love to be able to have this quick option when I need to use tab........rather than always having a regular music stand in front of me even when I don't need tab. Can anyone else relate to this? Perhaps someone has discovered a creative DIY option? Thanks in advance for any input on this subject - and greetings from frigid VT!!

Monica, if you have not been playing long, give it some time. Chording involves using and stretching muscles in your hand and fingers that you might never have used before. It may be that a 30" dulcimer will always be too long, but I doubt if you will have trouble with anything 27" or less after you've been playing a while.

Thanks James, I am playing chords and finger picking and I find those stretches are quite challenging and uncomfortable.Playing the ginger is so much easier.

James Phillips said:

The other thing as well Monica to consider is the style you are playing. If you are doing noter/drone, it really does not matter how long the vsl. However, for chording, 27 vsl or so in DAd seems to be the norm for what I have scene.

The other thing as well Monica to consider is the style you are playing. If you are doing noter/drone, it really does not matter how long the vsl. However, for chording, 27 vsl or so in DAd seems to be the norm for what I have scene.

Thanks for your thoughts Rob and Robert.

I wasn't playing the full size much, however since I got the ginger I am really enjoying playing. ..unfortunately in Canada there are no local luthier shops where I can try them out. So its all a guessing game.

Monica, A 25-26" scale dulcimer is ideal for tuning Dadd. A 28-29" scale is great for Daa... 28-30" is best for a baritone. Learn to stretch your fingers, over time you will find it easy to play a longer scale..., Bob.

My 1st dulcimer has about a 30" vsl so I'm probably not one who should comment. However, my hands are small though I was a classical guitarist before the dulcimer. I play many different dulcimers with different vsls. I would get the standard size with the short fretboard. You already have one ginger, so I'd think a full size body is in order. Just my 2 cents.

I bought a full sized cherry mcspadden about a month ago and though I love the sound i find it very uncomfortable to play. 1 week ago I bought a ginger cherry from a friend. I am really enjoying it, in fact every chance I have.. I play it. I am 5 3"..though I have long fingers my hands are small I suppose.. I know that I want a walnut next ..maybe with a redwood top. I am debating another ginger or 26 vsl..though I wonder if that too won't be comfortable to play ..any thoughts

I don't mind the sound but it is awkward for finger picking.

Pamela Rossetti said:

I always play 3 strings or 4 equidistant...do not like double melody..the sound or the feel on my fingers.

Thank you for your suggestion Mandy.

Mandy said:

I'd remove the one closest to the soundboard (the outermost string). I find myself using 3strings a lot now and I like it.

Thank you for the suggestion Geekling.

Geekling said:

I find removing the inner melody string is best for noter playing, and makes the strings equidistant for fingerpicking. :-)

Measure between the bass string and the middle string. Use the same measure from the middle string to the melody strings and leave the one that's closest to that measure. As an alternative though, have you thought about 4 independent strings for fingerpicking? I love to use 4 strings tuned DAAd, DAdd, DAdc, DGGd, DGdd, DGdc, EAAd, etc. Gives you a lot of options.

Thats a good idea Skip !!

Thanks for the tip Robert :)