I just realized, i.e. saw, that this was an old post. Did he ever get back on this?
Strumelia said:
Well Kyle did check into FOTMD about ten months ago for a while. Hopefully we'll hear back again from him soon.
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You have my attention and I'm all eyes! Lets see what ya got!
As long as you're making copies for all of us, you might want to submit it to Dulcimer Players News and see if they would like to print it in their magazine. Here's their web site. http://www.dpnews.com/
Paul
Melissa, there are a few very good articles and guides on the web about how to choose the right dulcimer for you. I've written on on my website, Dulcimer Buyer's Guide . There is another (which I also wrote, though long ago) on the Sweet Music index, hosted by bearmeadow.com. You'll find that at Buying a Mountain Dulcimer . Jerry Rockwell also has good things to say in an article on choosing the right dulcimer on his website at Buying Guide .
Read all these carefully and you'll get a lot of insight into how to choose best. Hope that helps.
Don't be afraid to be frank with him though- banjo players are used to being told to 'stuff a sock in it'.
LOL!
How can you tell if the stage is level at a bluegrass concert?
....the banjo player is drooling out of both sides of his mouth.
Speaking from my own personal experience... I honestly do not find my Galax dulcimer to be particularly louder than the non-Galax dulcimers I have played. It has a deep large box which makes it sound a bit deeper, so the tone is not 'brighter' either, which Melissa says she wants.
Melissa has no dulcimers right now, and she's looking for ONE that will do it all. Since she says she wants to do some chording as well, I'd recommend against a Galax dulcimer, unless she is going to string it in standard form with a heavy bass string....but why choose a Galax anyway if not stringing it in high octave?
Modern Mountain Dulcimers have the volume and the double back, and probably the brightness if you ask for it...but I doubt they'd fall under the $400 range.
McSpaddens would fit the bill- but Melissa didn't like the looks of the one she had.
Lots of things to consider!
I would not worry about a built-indouble back to give more sound. For under $10 you can make a simple and effective possum board to accomplish the same thing.
Read some of Robin Clark's commentaries here about how useful and versatile he finds a Galax strung dulcimer to be when playing in sessions with fiddles and other instruments. He may make a convert out of you. If I had access to the kind of playing groups he does, that's what I'd choose.
Wood type is actually pretty far down the list of things that affect the sound quality. If you want a brighter sound you want a shallower and narrower dulcimer than you've had before. Relatively less volume of the sound body gives a brighter tone. Another good trick is to take off the wound 20 to 24 ga bass string and use say an 18 ga, plain steel string, to also enhance brightness.
Hi Melissa,
Though there are some good quality dulcimers made for $400 or less, that price will be a somewhat limiting factor, in terms of false-backs, custom wood choices, etc. Some McSpaddens will fall within that price range, but may go over w/case, shipping, etc. You might want to look in the beginner GROUP here at the several threads about choosing your first dulcimer- since you have a lot in common with them in terms of buying only one instrument to 'do it all' plus the modest price range. There is a long and excellent thread there discussing the good luthiers who produce modestly priced new dulcimers.
One more point- chording does not require a 26-27" VSL. Any VSL/scale from 26"-28" will be just great for doing anything.
Hello all! I haven't been around this board for a while because I've been concentrating on my hammered dulcimer. (No tomatoes, please!) In fact, my MD was sold to finance said HD, but I'm discovering that I miss it too much to continue to be MD-less.
So, I've received my tax return andI am looking for a new MD. I play regularly with a fiddler and a banjo player, so I need it to be fairly loud to avoid being drowned out. I know that I should play several dulcimers, but I live in an area where MD's are uncommon. In the past I had a Black Mountain dulcimer, which I did not like because the frets were oddly placed, and an older McSpadden, which sounded nice very nice, but the VSL was too long to make chording comfortable, and I didn't find it visually appealing. Yes, I am shallow. I'm not fond of walnut.
I considered a Galax dulcimer, but I think that since I will have one dulcimer, I want it to be more versatile than a Galax would be. I suppose that my most important "wants" arecorrect fret placement, (which shouldn't be a problem on any of the well-known dulcimers, I would think) fairly loud, and not a walnut soundboard. I would like to spend at most $400 for dulcimer and accessories (case, capo, etc.). What should I look for? Would a false back be something to consider? I've read descriptions of which soundboard woods impart varioussound qualities, but the descriptions don't seem to be especially consistent. I am looking for a bright sound. I will be playing old-time music, mostly noter and drone style, but I would like the VSL to be not more than 26-27 in case I want to do a bit of chording.
I wish there were an application that would let me input my desired qualities, then spit outyou need a: McSpadden! or Gibson! orHensley! or whichever dulcimer would suit my needs. Since that doesn't exist, I figured this message board wouldbe the next best thing.
Does anyone have any suggestions? Thank you!
Daniel, Does your Keith Young "Youngster" have round button feet on the bottom? My instrument does, and I'm finding them difficult to work with. When I tune, the instrument wobbles. I was wondering if the Keith Young instrument has the same feet since my instrument doesn't have a label inside.
And are the bridge and nut glued in their slots. Mine are and I'll have to have my brother lower the action for me the next time I see him as it's just too high for my comfort. It's two dimes high at the nut. I'm still wondering if mine is a true Keith Young or a copy.
Thanks, FF
Daniel Lewis Goad said:
Hummmm, left front paw for strumming and right rear paw for fretting. Interesting technique, Tigger.
ns that is a Keith Young "Youngster." The only difference between yours and mine is that mine has walnut back and sides.
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Daniel, Does your Keith Young "Youngster" have round button feet on the bottom? My instrument does, and I'm finding them difficult to work with. When I tune, the instrument wobbles. I was wondering if the Keith Young instrument has the same feet since my instrument doesn't have a label inside.
And are the bridge and nut glued in their slots. Mine are and I'll have to have my brother lower the action for me the next time I see him as it's just too high for my comfort. It's two dimes high at the nut. I'm still wondering if mine is a true Keith Young or a copy.
Thanks, FF
Daniel Lewis Goad said:
Hummmm, left front paw for strumming and right rear paw for fretting. Interesting technique, Tigger.
ns that is a Keith Young "Youngster." The only difference between yours and mine is that mine has walnut back and sides.
![]()
Hummmm, left front paw for strumming and right rear paw for fretting. Interesting technique, Tigger.
ns that is a Keith Young "Youngster." The only difference between yours and mine is that mine has walnut back and sides.
![]()
Hummmm, left front paw for strumming and right rear paw for fretting. Interesting technique, Tigger.
ns that is a Keith Young "Youngster." The only difference between yours and mine is that mine has walnut back and sides.
I just bought the sweetest little 21 inch long dulcimer. It's a 3 string cherry with a 17 inch VSL. The sound box is a trapezoid sort of shape with the bottom width being only 3 1/2 inches across and the top is the width of the fret board. There's no makers label so I can tell you who made it. I just tuned it down from DAA to CGG to see how the sound changes and it really sounds sweeter in C. It has all unwound strings, probably 16 on the bass and 12/or 14 for middle and melody
And the best thing of all is that it fits in my carry on bag, so when I go to the UK, I will have a dulcimer with me. With zither pin tuners, I'm going to have to invest in some spare clock keys in case I lose my goose neck. And the prototype possum board that Dave made years ago, is just the right size for this little baby.
Hoping to get some photos of it posted soon. Now I have to go make a carry bag for it. I think I'll use a quilted plaid I have. That some how seem appropriate.
I'm thinking of calling her "Candy" as she's a sweet little bit and really bounces through songs like "Coulter's Candy".