I should mention that our members who are dulcimer makers/luthiers often utilize our Dulcimer Making Group to post about their latest creations that they themselves constructed. :)
Most of us just post a separate thread when we acquire or make a new instrument, rather than having a single thread of new dulcimers.
But here's my newest build. This Holly Leaf is shape based on one of two Civil War or earlier instruments known to have been made in this recognizable pattern -- one in North Carolina and a similar but different holly leaf shape made in Virginia by a different builder. Great minds think alike and all that.
Mine is not an exact replica of the one which was built in Burnsville, NC. Rather, I 'softened' the original rigid straight lines by curving the shoulders and tail. Walnut and Maple. Rosewood tuning pegs. Staple frets for the melody string only. Width 7.5", Length 34.5". Side height 1.5". Fretboard 1" high x 1.125" wide.
Yes, I have seen a few NDD threads, but not many. I thought a thread like this might get more people to post. Just a thought. We will see.
That's a really cool dulcimer, thanks for the details on it. How does it sound?
No, not today. 
Most of us just post a separate thread when we acquire or make a new instrument, rather than having a single thread of new dulcimers.
But here's my newest build. This Holly Leaf is shape based on one of two Civil War or earlier instruments known to have been made in this recognizable pattern -- one in North Carolina and a similar but different holly leaf shape made in Virginia by a different builder. Great minds think alike and all that.
Mine is not an exact replica of the one which was built in Burnsville, NC. Rather, I 'softened' the original rigid straight lines by curving the shoulders and tail. Walnut and Maple. Rosewood tuning pegs. Staple frets for the melody string only. Width 7.5", Length 34.5". Side height 1.5". Fretboard 1" high x 1.125" wide.
As with all things this is taking time. And even now, I see places where I didn't get all of the old finish off and need to get back to sanding. I resist the idea of using a stripper since it would be just this one time project. But the craftsman in me demands I get this right. Especially since the back is some really nice mahogany.
But I have to say, I DO like the Tung Oil. It does take time to dry, but from what I am seeing so far, it is well worth the time.
Pics are not the best quality, but this is just an update.
I belong to several music forums. It is quite common for folks to share their new instrument acquisitions with pictures and details. It's interesting to see what folks are getting and hear their stories.
As dulcimer players, I know we quite often acquire new or new-to-us dulcimers.
What are your thoughts on sharing your NDD's right here? Who wants to start?
I'm looking into this Ken. It looks like if you make a new post in a group discussion, it does rise to the top as it should. (there are sometimes a couple of 'pinned' discussions that always stay at top though). However, it also seems that after a recent site update, past group discussions got a bit scrambled in order, making it hard to find discussions that were somewhat recent, if they have not had a new post after the site update.
Not sure I'll be able to re-order them again, but am looking into it.
The Wall comments I never did see out of chronological order. But the Group discussions are completely disordered. I understand that they 'should' have most recently responded to discussions at the top of the list. But in Beginners and Making Dulcimers and Noter & Drone (that I follow a couple times a day) I can't find the discussions that were "current" at the top of the lists. In each of those Groups, there were discussions that were being currently responded to which are now somewhere in what seems to be a randomly ordered stack of discussions.
Hope that helps.
Ken, I'm currently looking in to this issue.
In the Beginner Group, I'm seeing that the Comment Wall 'comments' are in the correct order- with the most recent comments on top. Are you not seeing it this way?
However, I am seeing a problem with the group's discussions being shown out of order. It 'should' be so that the discussions with the newest replies show on the top, and discussion threads that have not had recent activity get listed later on in the order of the group threads. Is that what you are referring to as the problem?
Tell me whether you still see an 'ordered by' problem with the Comment Wall comments in groups.
I'm thinking there's only a problem with the order of group discussions, and NOT aproblem with the rder of group Comment Wall comments. Tell me if that's what you see too, so I don't wind up chasing any non-existent issues. Thanks
You're right John -- we need to establish acoustic characteristics of a Dulcimer Standard Lap and how far individuals deviate from the standard. I'll get right on that!
Possum boards (regardless of wood type) do increase volume. How much? No one has yet designed an experiment to test the concept (variables would include number and height of feet or standoff, Janka or other hardness rating of the p-board material, and some sort of quantitative measure of both lap an p-board loudness values.
Of course, you would also have to design a measurement protocol for the sonic charateristics of various types of laps—bony, flabby, etc. 
Update on my little black cat, Bran. I had both my boys to the vet in July - had deliberately left taking them both down to the vet, letting Bran be thoroughly settled before taking him anywhere. Both needed their vaccinations, and checkups, etc., and Pug needed some dental work done. As you know, Bran was a rescue cat from the pet rescue via the pound, and very stressed and unhappy when I got him. I mentioned previously that his front paws were a bit odd, and the pads deformed, so I had the vet check out his feet.
Here's where it gets a bit nasty. The vet said that at some time his front paws had come into contact with something caustic, and that his 'deformed' pads weren't deformed at all, but had been partly burned away by whatever the caustic substance was. She said it could quite possibly have been accidental, but could also have been deliberate - there is no way of knowing. There are some harder areas of scar tissue that occasionally give him discomfort, so I have to keep an eye on him and look out for his sore paws. I do so hope it was accidental, but going by the condition he was in, and his level of timidity and distrust I doubt it. I don't want to think that he was hurt on purpose, but we all know that there are some very brutal people out there who don't think twice about inflicting pain on an animal.
@david-messenger Wow, she looks really good! As a simple, temporary fix, you could loosen the strings and place a little slice of good grade of paper in the nut and see whether that fixes your buzzing. If it doesn't, you may just need another string gauge. (I'm not a luthier so my advice is just that of a strummer.)
My mate Zak as the avatar pic 
Being that I don't have much lap.....and don't like using a bum strap....I put 3 little clear plastic bumpers on the backs of my dulcimers. (they have sticky backs) I play on an adjustable table. Nice and loud just right. I can control volume, and bow it and hammer it....easy cheesy on the adjustable little black table that you can get at Walmart. Daughter in Hawaii has a white adjustable table and that worked just right too. A dulcimer is ALWAYS set up in my living room so I can just stop and play anytime I want....
You can try those little plastic bumpers and take 'em off if you don't like them. You can keep them on even while playing your dulcimer on your lap. The old style of many dulcimers had wood permanent ones on the backs like many of the dulcimer makers are making now a days. aloha, irene
LD. Thanks, I am seriously thinking of going ahead with the possum board. Thanks for your input. I have 2 McSpadden’s with 26” vsl. One is redwood with walnut and the other is all walnut with some extra frets. I love them both!
Silverstrings...yes, no regrets. I use it from time to time. I was pleasantly surprised at the very balanced tone of the McSpadden dulcimer. I love the 26 scale (have an athritic joint in my left wrist so the full size is a problem), and the spalted sycamore with the walnut back and sides sounds very rich. My other dulcimers are largely all walnut, or walnut with butternut, and they are on the mellow, rich side. Very nice, but I wanted something that would be warm with some sparkle. The spalted sycamore did the trick. Of all the dulcimers i have, this one is fast becoming my favorite all purpose one. If you call McSpadden, I believe they would let you buy, and return if you don't like the possum board. Just call. They are really great to work with.
LD
LD, so you are at least glad you bought the MsSpadden possum board? I have a 26” dulcimer from them, too and love it. What does your Spalted Sycamore sound like and does it have Cherry sides and back? I am looking at one of theirs in the 26” vsl length. Thanks
I just purchased a new McSpadden Spalted Sycamore top short scale dulcimer. I also ordered the possum board. I have never worked with one, and it clearly makes it louder. I have not put a lot of time into it yet as the dulcimer really sounds true sitting flat on my lap, but my initial reaction is that it does bring out volume but some of the deeper tones got brighter. Just an unscientific observation. I have another brand dulcimer that completely loses the lower sound on my lap, and the maker will not make a possum board for me. I think he sees it as an insult! I may tackle that project myself. Anyway, it certainly has a use, and in an ensemble setup, volume will be increased.
Anybody who has played a dulcimer knows how much better they sound when the back is unrestrained. Possum boards really help but mostly they allow an easy way to free up the back plate to vibrate freely.Any hardwood will help reflect sound a little bit not very much. I did an experiment playing with my birch possum board then covering board with sheet brass. Followed that by covering board with a cotton kitchen dish towel. There was barely any difference in volume. Just raising back of dulcimer any way you can is all you need.
Somewhere I saw someone who mounted a dulcimer on an acoustic table that acted as a resonator. I have to build one someday... Robert.
I just purchased a new McSpadden Spalted Sycamore top short scale dulcimer. I also ordered the possum board. I have never worked with one, and it clearly makes it louder. I have not put a lot of time into it yet as the dulcimer really sounds true sitting flat on my lap, but my initial reaction is that it does bring out volume but some of the deeper tones got brighter. Just an unscientific observation. I have another brand dulcimer that completely loses the lower sound on my lap, and the maker will not make a possum board for me. I think he sees it as an insult! I may tackle that project myself. Anyway, it certainly has a use, and in an ensemble setup, volume will be increased.
Possum boards (regardless of wood type) do increase volume. How much? No one has yet designed an experiment to test the concept (variables would include number and height of feet or standoff, Janka or other hardness rating of the p-board material, and some sort of quantitative measure of both lap an p-board loudness values.
Here's a pic of one I made. Don't need the sound holes, but it does help with volume.
I am thinking of getting a walnut possum board to increase the volume on my 2 McSpadden Dulcimers. Does anyone have one of these? I will be playing acoustically in groups mostly and am not ready to think of external pickups and amps. Thanks!
You tune a stick more or less "backwards" from a dulcimer. Holding the stick in guitar style playing position, the top string is the bass string and the bottom is the melody string; middle of course is the drone. I would say most sticks are tuned DAd, some are tuned DAA, as are most dulcimers (or CGc/CGG if you like a lower key).
I did a few different searches and knew what I wasn't looking for (McNally, Merlin, etc.) in the way of a strum stick.
EDIT: Funny, until seeing your reply to me, I hadn't seen the photo with the stamp on the headstock-- I missed a few of the photos.
That's it, Robin, thank you! Same stamp on the side. I had searched and searched--how did you find that?
There are elements of an eBay instrument which remind me of your instrument, @boingercat:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Strumstick-Handmade/174043907074?hash=item2885d34402:g:nTYAAOSwcJVdj~Ot
*Note the mention of maker's initials at the tuners.
Yes, I know it's not old. Just was hoping to find some info about how to tune it, etc., because the strings are very different gauges, and I wasn't sure if that was correct.
Not heard of BFM and can't find anything on-line about them or their instruments.
It depends on what you mean by "old"... but none of these stick instruments (not really dulcimers) are much more than 10-20 years old.
It's hard to see in the picture, but it actually is a "B," where it says B.F.M. music. "Handcrafted By B.F.M. Music." I thought it was an S at first. It has great projection. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Do you have any photos to help us?
I acquired a "stick dulcimer" that is stamped (woodburned into headstock, actually) "Handcrafted by B.F.M. Music." Can anyone help me identify the maker? I don't think it's old. Thanks!
Dissonance is what Locrian Mode is all about!! Stick with D-Ab-Bb!!
I'm bringing back this old thread, because I have a similar question regarding the bass and middle drone strings and the D Locrian mode. The fifth note of the D Locrian mode is "Ab", which is a diminished fifth. It is dissonant when used as a drone in D-Ab-Bb tuning. However, if we leave the middle drone as "A" as in the other modal tunings, in this case D-A-Bb tuning, we have a note that is not part of the D Locrian mode. It, too, is dissonant to the ear.
When I have read about the Locrian mode elsewhere, the consensus (if there is one) is that the D Locrian mode sounds best when only the root drone "D" is used along with the melody. So my question is this "Shouldn't the tuning for the Locrian mode omit the fifth and perhaps be something like D-d-Bb, instead of D-A-Bb or D-Ab-Bb?" By omitting the fifth, the dissonance can be minimized. And since you don't want to remove the middle string to play a single Locrian mode tune, the solution seems to be to tune the middle string drone to an octave of the bass string drone, which results in a D-d-Bb tuning.
Any thoughts on this?
Glendy Burke
Hard Times Come Again No More. both by Stephen Foster
Grandfather's Clock.
I prefer Hal-an Tow as a group a capella "chant" rather than an accompanied tune. What would be perfect is to do this one with my Anglo-Saxon Lyre.
