Forum Activity for @ken-hulme

Lovely, John!   Is that based on measurements you took when we were in Berea and Lexington for the Grumpy Old Men Gathering?

Really looks like a pristine old Amburgey!  Lovely work.

Great suggestions. Giving a brief comment or compliment, both online or in real life, takes so little effort but can have a profound effect on others, more than we might ever know.

Keep us posted -- show us your solution...

John: Thank you for the advice on materials. You have confirmed some ideas for me.

Ken: Now THAT is a solution I'd have not thought of. So simple. I had thought about cutting an angle into the headblock and creating a new tuning head, but your photo has me thinking now.

Nate: You are absolutely correct that's what it's doing - pulling the strings down over the zero fret. Same general concept as Fender string trees, but it just introduces such a harsh bend in the strings that I believe is contributing to the middle string in particular going out of tune almost immediately.

You all have been helpful. I have some things to think about with this little gal.

Mackelroy, you could use several materials for the nut.  Bone, ebony, rosewood, Micarta, even brass.  Tennessee luthier John Maxwell even used clear plastic, though I don't know why.  You can get bone blanks at Guitar Center or an old-school music store.

Lots of things you could do, certainly.   Personally I would saw the tuning head and headblock on a downward angle, drill 4 new holes, and install autoharp tuning pins as tuners.  This is what Bobby Ratliff did on his Cumberland Travel Dulcemore that I won in a TTAD contest a couple years back. 

Those tuning pins are tapped into pilot holes, and thread the hole as you turn them to screw the pin deeper into the wood.  They hold tuning very well, and are easily adjusted using a clock key or autoharp tuning wrench.  Best of all, they only cost about 40¢ each.  

 Bobby's tuninghead.jpg - 166KB

It looks to me like the spacer is not only meant to keep the strings at their correct distance, but also is meant to pull them down over the zero fret. That is why the strings are going through holes, and not just resting over the top like an actual nut.

I appreciate the advice. I have some new strings on order, and will try to do that. That faux nut/string spacer is going to be replaced as well. I want the strings to go over it, not through it as they currently do. . I have experience making/shaping nuts for guitars. Is there a preferred material for making one?

It might help if the strings were wound around their posts right at the surface of the peghead, rather than around the beveled area by the holes.  You would have to hold each string down at the peghead surface as you tighten them.  This could give you a few more degrees of break angle.  The straight peghead-mounting design is not beneficial to proper string action. 

Nothing wiggles. But if you were to snug it up to the fretboard, it’d bind the strings. Whatever the solution is, it almost has to include a different string spacer. 

My mistake I thought the nails were screws. Are the nails loose? It visually looks like the spacer is meant to be flush with the edge of the fingerboard, but has been pulled out of place and tipped over by the force of the strings.

Great thoughts, Jamie!  I'm with you-- we're all doing something we love.  And we have a place here to communicate meaningfully with one another.  

The “nut” is nailed to the fretboard. And if you look closely, you can see that the strings go through it, not over it. It’s being used as a string spacer. I would hope that wasn’t the maker’s design, but I also can’t tell you it wasn’t. The string angles coming from the tuning posts are not great. They’re tall posts, and you’d have to wind the string way down them to get an angle approaching “acceptable,” IMO.  

Looks great John.

Very nice,  Great technique on the wood.

if you were to tighten those screws, would the nut be upright and flush with the end of the fingerboard? It seems to be leaning pretty dramatically toward the zero fret and the screws look pretty loose. Maybe is just needs to be re-secured

Just a thought.Dulcimer players are a minority in North America which has an advantage re mainstream media...we can be as creative as we want to be...no pressure to be successful or conform to a certain standard or style, because we're mostly ignored.Very creative situation...Nevertheless,as musicians we need  communication,a response.If you like something or a certain approach in a tune or wonder about the technique-ask,like,comment.It's not Spotify...it's a bunch of individuals whatever the playing level doing something they love...Ask,like,comment.

Is that "nut" screwed into the fretboard?? Thats a.....creative.....solution..... 

I think it would be simpler to replace the string spacer bar than to replace the tuners. Theoretically, if the spacer bar is lower than the 0 fret, it shouldn't matter that the tuners are higher than the spacer. The only challenge is anchoring the spacer to the headstock well enough that force from the strings doesnt lift the spacer up.

Lots of options for that, good luck!

Nate

FWIW, I tabbed out the basic melody with chords in Em.  But it is hard to capture that free and open feeling of the guitar version because in Em, we can't use that many open strings.

When I get some time, I'm going to revisit the tune and arrange it with a capo at the first fret, which will allow more open strings.  I might also try to transpose it to Bm.

If you're interested in the tab I created so far, sent me a personal message with your email.

I was gifted a dulcimer recently, and it's got me interested in learning this instrument. However, upon looking at this particular model, it's got some... quirks. In turn, I have questions. The label inside says it was made by a fellow named Walt Kirby out of Oklahoma City. I think he is no longer living (based on a quick google search). Anyway, it's a travel-size, teardrop dulcimer that in many ways seems solidly constructed. However, the string angle coming off the headstock needs addressing. Seems ol' Walt, or some subsequent owner, tried to remedy it by making strange use of a wooden nut. See the pics attached.

As you can imagine, this affects the instrument's ability to hold tune. I'm looking for advice on how to address this. Is it as simple as swapping the tuning machines out for low-post versions? Or, does it need more drastic attention? Ideally, I'd like to be able to put a different nut on that guides the strings, but sits lower than the zero fret. I'm open to ideas.

 Dulcimer Headstock 1.jpg - 115KB

Just completed another Amburgey dulcimer/dulcimore for Greg here in Michigan!

 June 24 Amburgey 1.JPG - 129KB

Here's a link of a close up of his finger work. I hope someday I can get my fingers to work like that.  

Oh yes thanks Dusty for the Info

I believe that's an "h" at the end of the first word rather than an "n."  According to The Session, it is an alternate title to Terry Teehan's .  If that's the same tune, the sheet music is offered in Em, but there is no C natural, so it would be playable in that key on the dulcimer.

The Stephen Wake arrangement is very pretty and makes use of the 6-string DADGAD tuning very well. It would be hard to re-create that fluid and open feel on a 3-string dulcimer.  I may try to tab this out, but it will be a while before I could get a really nice arrangement.

Hello again kids, how's everybody out there in cyberspace? I hope everybody has survived. all of those fireworks. My dog went completely nuts. But that's not why I'm writing, I just stumbled across the song Deireadn Fomhair that I love. I'm not quite ready for finger picking and I don't know if there's any dulcimer tablatures out there for this song; it's composed for a guitar. looks like you need pretty Nimble fingers maybe down the road. the name of the song is Deireadh Fomhair played by Stephen Wake tuned to DADGAD. Do you think that there are any dulcimer tab. Out there

I have discovered Ultimate Guitar sonce this request. I use it in conjunction with Songbook Pro to upload lyrics and chords to my tablet. A great resource.

I realize this answer comes very late, but it might help you in the future. I always look for chords on https://www.ultimate-guitar.com/. Here's what I found for We Walk By Faith : https://tabs.ultimate-guitar.com/tab/misc-praise-songs/we-walk-by-faith-chords-1774730

If you are a memeber of UU you will know that a baritone is not a proper ukulele.

Another Devonian era person, eh?  I joined that age myself back in June.  Welcome, welcome.  There are several ways to play the dulcimer, to accommodate a variety of 'issues'.  We have a number of UK players here, so you're in good company.  If all else fails you can build your own box-shaped dulcimer for just a few quid and a day's worth of minor effort, and at least get started learning while looking for a really nice instrument.   That's how I started off fifty years ago -- built one so I could learn to play it...

We know shipping to the UK is really expensive.  One thought is to have someone here make you a fretboard, which can then be attached to a dulcimer shaped box over there.  The fretboard is the  critical part, of course, to making the instrument sound good.  A good size fretboard is only about 65x4x2 cm and should not be too expensive to ship.

Do you know about the Nonesuch Dulcimer Club there in the UK?  it's been around for dog's years.   You might google it and contact them to see if anyone has a dulcimer for sale.   

If you go to the Beginner Players Group here, you'll find a PDF of a booklet I wrote years ago called I Just Got A Dulcimer, Now What?, which is an illustrated glossary of dulcimer terms (so we all speak the same jargon) plus answers to many beginner questions about tuning, playing, care and feeding of your dulcimer when you get or make it.  

 Burnsville1.jpg - 183KB

Hi Idle - I'm also UK-based, and an excellent source of Dulcimers in the UK is https://revelsmusic.co.uk/ . But also, lots of the US makers and shops will ship (McSpadden and Folkcraft both do quite quickly)!

Happy playing, all the best.

Rob

Jon, it worked both ways you did it-- I saw it in the first format.  And I liked seeing it both times!  

Well, idle, I'm looking forward to your questions. Many folks seem to migrate to the mountain dulcimer when having problems playing other instruments. I am having problems fingering chords on guitar, but don't have a problem with the banjo. Luckily I've been playing mountain dulcimer for the last 50 years and can still play chords on it although my preferred style of playing is with a noter.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

I don't know what didn't work, but I like the drawing. Always nice to see some FOTMD friends no matter the form, human or drawn characters. Thanks for sharing it, Jon.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

sorry looks like it didn't work :0(

Hope this brings a few smiles. From Jon Lilley

 FOTMD-1.jpg - 202KB

Hello everyone.

I had intended to lurk in shadows while I gathered information especially as I don't have a Dulcimer - yet but I see that some of you already know I am here so decided to say hello.

I live in Sidmouth Devon and I am 76 going on 24 yet gradually winding down my type of instrument playing as old age and old mountain bike accidents come home to roost. I used to play acoustic guitar but I have problems supporting the necks now with my left arm. My pride and joy D28 also started to set off my tinnitus as did my fiddle and mandolin. Ended up with an octave mandolin and baritone ukulele that I still play. I just sold the OM so itching to buy a Dulcimer and still doing research on which one. Bit of a limited selection here in the UK but I think I have identified one.

I also have a lot of questions that I will post over time.

That's really cool. That would be a really useful thing for me to do on dulcimers I make with eye bolts for tuners, since theyre super finicky to fine tune

@dallas , I do apologize that we have veered a bit off track from your main subject. But your Dubroff dulcimer does have some very nice fine tuning beads!

@nate , a few years ago, member @dave-d restored a Keith Young dulcimer and posted a photo here of the wooden bead fine tuners Keith used to make. (You can look up his 6 yr old thread) Below is the 'before' photo, showing the remaining two beads- one in place properly and the one on the bass string had crept under tailpiece into the wrong place. From the one good one showing, you can see how they were elegantly made and how they might work. They don't actually need to move all that much in order to hear the audible change in the note due to tension change. When moved all the way to the bridge, it should be pretty much slack and not change the note much at all... when slid towards the tail you can hear the pitch go up more. If you need to change the note more than just a little, you just use the main tuning pegs. These beads are only for very fine adjustments once you are quite close to the note you need.

It 'shouldn't' be hard to slide the bead, and it 'shouldn't' drastically change the break angle. The tuning leeway it gives is usually less than 1/2 half step... fine tuning the note. Well made fine tuning beads are (or should be) a pleasure to use... mostly useful if you have old fashioned (non geared) wooden peg tuners. Of course you need to have a flat fretboard surface between the bridge and the pin or the end of the tail, in order to have a place for them to slide up and down. An inch is not generally quite long enough. I like the beads to have a smooth flattened surface where they slide on the fretboard, so that they neither roll nor dig into the fretboard surface over time such as a spherical bead might do.

Nate, beads fitted properly are easy to move to make very fine adjustments.