I would definitely get the 8 1/2 fret. When I capo on the 3rd fret to play in the key of G, I see the 8 1/2 fret is like the 6th fret if I'm playing in D. This way it helps me to play the same chord shapes as if I'm playing in D. For example in D 0 6 5 is the 4th chord (G major) when capo up to 3rd fret. 0 8.5 7 is also the 4th chord (C major). Hope this makes sense.
It looks like cherry in these photos, but it could be walnut with reddish lighting when the photos were taken.
Cherry looks deep orange or orange-red, and sometimes has small black "pitch pockets" here and there in the wood.
Walnut usually shows more grain, and can be medium- to chocolate-brown in color.
Hi Jill. I think the way you phrased your question actually answers it. The 8-1/2 fret is the octave of the 1-1/2 fret. So all the reasons you might want a 1-1/2 fret can be used to justify the 8-1/2 fret. When you are playing up there you might want those notes (minor thirds, 7ths. etc) that the fret offers. On the other hand, as you mention, frets get thinner up there and harder to use. That issue really depends on the dulcimer's VSL. The shorter the VSL, the thinner the frets. The other issue for beginners is that is is harder to identify where you are on the fretboard as you move higher up. My main dulcimer has a 28" VSL and I have no trouble with frets that are too thin until about 13. Everything below that is fully usable.
My advice would be to keep the two octaves the same. If you get a 1-1/2 fret, get the 8-1/2 fret. Otherwise you will have to recalibrate your thinking as you move up the fretboard. As you get used to the 1-1/2 fret your brain gets used to having those notes available, and then not having them in the upper octave will pose a mental obstacle. TO help identify frets up there you might ask for fret markers placed at the usual spots (frets 3, 5, 7, and 10).
Lisa, your impression of Alan is correct. His contribution to preserving and disseminating folk music; especially fiddle tunes, is tremendous. We owe him a great debt of gratitude for his hard and enduring work in this field. He will missed by family, friends, and colleagues. Rest in peace, Alan.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Jennifer, while I can not be certain, from the photos it does look like cherry. That would be my guess.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Alan was not only a wonderful fiddler, but he helped to preserve and bring deserved attention to the rich tune repertoire of Henry Reed. From watching him at a music camp, my impression was that Alan was not only a fine musician, but a real gentleman as well.
On Saturday at the Pocono Dulcimer Club Winterfest I encountered a similar dulcimer. The shape is the same. The peg head shape is slightly different. The pegs on the one I saw are wood, not mechanical friction tuners as in the photo here. The lower sound holes are identical, but the upper sound holes on the one I saw are round. Another difference is that the one I examined was made of wormy chestnut. There was no label inside. Bill Davis did sell kits but I do not know whether any of them were this style. This shape is also the shape used to make the "Masterpiece" dulcimer in Chet Hines book How to Make and Play the Dulcimore.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Bill Davis made kits for this style. I know, because I helped a lady repair hers. The head on his was different though-- it had chip carving on the sides of the scroll, and the end was larger. Too bad there's no label in it. Chet Hines wrote a book on how to build a "masterpiece dulcimore" like this.
Well, I had made contact with the seller & this morning again I asked where we could meet. Tonight, he said he sold it today. I guess I need to learn how to play, if something is listed - what I should do is be first at the door - don't e-mail & wait for a reply.
Thanks to all of you for all your help. It is disappointing to have lost the dulcimer but it was not a total lost - I have learn a good bit of history about Folk Roots, the Ruggs & the whole dulcimer movement in CA.
Hoping the dulcimer has found a good home & will be played.
Thanks again
That's no kit, believe me! No one I've heard of in 40 years has ever made a kit for the fiddle shape; it's not a simple build. It's not "vintage", that's for sure, but it might be a dozen years old. There should be a maker's label visible through (usually) the lower, far side sound hole. Mike Clemmer is the primary builder of that style, although a few others offer it. If the seller is only asking $100, snap it up -- tonight!
Jennifer, she's a beaut! Looks like a Mike Clemmer ("Wood 'N' Strings", Townsend, TN) from here. If so, snap it up!
Bill Davis from Gatlinburg, TN and Jean Schilling from Cosby, TN popularized that particular style, with its violin shape, its 5 strings and its large size.
Hi all! This is my first post here, but I've been lurking awhile. I came across a used dulcimer for sale and wondering if anyone might recognize its builder? The seller could only tell me "it's vintage", but the price is great and I'm considering getting it. Only the one picture so far, but waiting on more. Thanks for any help!
Glad to hear it!! I'll send you those savory breakfast muffins if you want!
Tony, if it indeed looks like that pic, I'd grab it. I mean, I'd have to dig up the money since I haven't been working, but I'm sure it would leave with me.
Back in the mid-1970s while visiting International Violin Company in Baltimore, the owner talked me in to trying some "marine" grade plywood he had on hand for a dulcimer. It was mahogany on the outer layers. It worked well for a teardrop dulcimer. I did not to try doing an hourglass bend with it. I did not weigh it, but I thought it was a little heavier than my solid rosewood dulcimers of the same pattern. I also made a courting dulcimer using the plywood for the back and sides. It seemed to work well.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Tried 2 of Tom's picks. The skinny little grey one is perfect. Can strum back and forth and it also helps for a bit more volume. Sorry I don't know who makes it.
Baltic birch plywood is of very high quality, and I've used it a couple of times with great results. It's relatively expensive. I got mine at my local Woodcraft store.
It was a good time and Ken and Sally are very gracious. We did have fun on the topic of 'dulcimers' and Ken is no slouch when it comes to building and playing them; and he has a great singing voice! :)
It's in the 60's here now and the plumbing freeze problem happened a day or two after we left when it was 3 and 4 degrees overnight. Luckily the split, in the copper pipe in our guest cabin, is accessible and it appears not a lot of damage done.
rob,
you would probably make it, I do think a bit about things not knowing enough yet. But then, I know it would be going someplace good
My Capritaurus is all mahogany ply, I think. That one would probably sound really good by now. In fact, if I were close I'd probably try to get it ahead of you. ROFL
It's always great to meet other members in person. Glad the two of you found some time to play together. Thanks for sharing the photo.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
The Capritaurus/Folk Roots dulcimers definitely hold an important place in 20th-century dulcimer history. The dulcimer boom in 1970s Santa Cruz centered around the Ruggs's shop, and many of the players from that period who are still kicking around and making music rave about what a phenomenal player Michael Rugg was and what a fine luthier Howard was. And the dulcimers were innovative, using bigger boxes and perhaps some more bracing to get more volume. At some point business was so busy that they split in two, with Michael Rugg taking over Capritaurus and handling the custom market and Howard Rugg & Steve Jackel running Folk Roots geared to mass production.
Folk Roots dulcimers show up on Craig's List fairly often, at least out here in California. I have one that has been on semi-permanent loan to one of the members of my local dulcimer group (who hasn't show up recently, so maybe she took off with my dulcimer!). That dulcimer sounds very good, but you have to get it off you lap. If you strum a chord on your lap and lift it up, you can hear a huge difference in volume and tone. I point this out because if you check out the sound you will want to make sure you can hear it when it's at its best.
As I said, Howard Rugg's big innovation in instrument design was mainly using big boxes for a lot of volume. However, since then (that was 40 years ago!) other luthiers have picked up on those principles and also make really loud dulcimers. If you have heard a Modern Mountain Dulcimer or a Blue Lion or a Gallier or a Beede dulcimer, I don't think your jaw will drop when you hear an old Capritaurus or Folk Roots. The industry has caught up to that old design. However, Howard Rugg is back in business now, having revived Capritaurus a few years ago and is now making really fine looking instruments one-at-a-time. I would agree with Rob that you can find Folk Roots dulcimers for $100 so you shouldn't spend more than that.
Howard is a member here, so if you have questions about what a model number means or what kind of wood was involved, he can probably tell you.
I'm glad you guys got to get together, Ken. Sounds like fun.
rob,
You are probably right (D40-S I'd bet it's mahogany ply with a spruce top) Sounds like in the mid 80's they were making them faster so there is a difference between your (Capritaurus dulcimer) and this one.
Thank you for finding the videos. Below is photo taken off the site & he is asking a bit under $100
Harry "Kusani" Smith and his wife came down from Tennessee to Florida to avoid that cold white stuff, and spent a few days visiting our Poolside Cabana AirBnb rental. In between their sightseeing excusions we got to spend a few hours of real "dulcimer quality time". Unfortunately they had to head back North early -- something about a cracked water pipe and flooding in nearly 0° F temperatures!
It was great to meet Kusani and spend some time together talking dulcimers and playing them That Burl Maple dulcimer of his is even better looking in person than the pix he posted here. SO is that wonderful TMB he made from re-purposed materials!
Here's a picture of the two of us doing a little jamming. This is my kinda jam -- a couple people making music together, not a herd of folks with music stands and books of tab.
susie,
( all walnut Bob Lazenby dulcimer )
I notice in your photo, the dulcimer looks like it takes up the whole table, how long is the VSL? I saw on your page, you have a Folks Roots, is it one with the 29" VSL? Is it hard on the hand & thumb going that short distance from a 27.5 or 28 to a 29'ish?
Marg,
My Bob Lazenby is a 28.5" VSL. The FolkRoots is a 27" VSL. I don't have any problem going from one to the other, but I have large hands too (for a girl). The FolkRoots/Folkcraft dulcimers can be ordered with whatever VSL you want (within a range). Very easy to do with Folkcraft's website and ordering process. They are very accomodating. You can even give them a call. Hope this helps.
Welcome back, Folkfan!
Sheryl, a pick made from a vinyl record sounds like it wouldn't be very flexible and I like a really flexible pick for the kind of playing I do.
There are 2 videos I made with the Capritaurus. It's not here right now, so I can't measure it. I sent it on a vacation to Oklahoma. LOL
I believe John's right and the 4 inches would include the height of the fingerboard. As you can hear, tuned to CGcc it's a boomer.
howard rugg visits here often. maybe he will chime in
I would guess the 4" deep measurement includes the fretboard. That seems awfully deep to me, too.
