This is what came in the mail.
OFF TOPIC discussions
Phil that is so wonderful, makes the heart all fuzzy thinking about it.
Phil that is so wonderful, makes the heart all fuzzy thinking about it.
It is beautiful Phil and your right know one like dulcimer player as friends.
I love baritones and can't wait to hear a vid to see how it sings.
This really is pretty, Phil (can I say that about a guy's dulcimer?)...and I hope the sound is just as lovely. I like the combination of the wood used. And, yes, the soundholes say, "Give Florida a try!".
Wow that is beautiful!
Keep strumming and smiling!!!
I don't think I can take another winter here in Indiana. Ken all I have to do now is get my wife to load up the car and I am there.
That's a nice looking instrument Phil. I am sure it sounds just like it looks. Thanks for sharing it.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
There are a couple nice liveaboard boats availble just down the dock from me, guys...
Wow, that is a real beauty, Phil. Who made it? Yeah, I'm thinking of moving to FL myself.
I know some of you have been waiting to see what I got in the mail. Been having trouble with my SD card taking to my lap top or I would have had this up sooner. I tell I still can't believe it even though I have been playing on it everyday. One Baritone Dulcimer. I love the way she sings. she made of maple and walnut. think the two sound holes are trying to tell me its time to move south.
I know there are a few dulcimer players in FL.
hope these didn't come out to big..I am not promising anything. But I might try and post a video later so ya'll can hear it, I have been working on a song of my own. It just seemed to come out of this dulcimer. Just remember I tend not to do well in front of video camreas.
There are two versions of tab for "Will the Circle Be Unbroken" in DAd at the Everything Dulcimer Tab Archive .
But you can also do it in DAA. I just found it plucking around. Start 0-1-3-3 for "will the circle" and 5-4-3-5 for "be unbroken." The entire melody is found between the open A string and the 7th fret.
"tuners placed in a slot of neck"... ????? Are you taking about on a scroll head or a flat guitar-style head? Can you post a picture of an example?
Truly, most of the geared guitar-type tuners will fit "a slot in neck", and are available from Folkcraft, Stew Mac and most string instrument parts dealers.
I start with a quarter inch hole when using a violin peg reamer. The bent sides look very good.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
Thanks for the suggestion- I will look at their page. The pegs I plan to use are for violins size 4/4
(see the pic attached), so they should be the correct size. I also will buy the reamer, that thing isn't cheep though!
Well, things are moving along with my project- the dulcimer rib sections have been bent to shape and the fretboard has been made, with some relief carving on the sides. I have ordered a set of four Perfection Planetary Violin Pegs (size 4/4) for the dulcimer tuning head that I just started to work on.
These geared tuning pegs are highly rated and I do like the traditional/classical appearance over other geared tuning pegs.
I have not installed these before, (and actually the pegs have not arrived yet) so I am looking at various tutorials on YouTube and such.
My first question is what size to drill the peg holes in the peg box before they are reamed ? I have not found any info on that! (I am ready to start carving the tuning head & scroll and want the holes bored first.)
My guess is 3/8 " but don's want to make any errors.
Does anyone have some advice as to the hole size?
Thanks!!
Jim; iff you go to this discussion, there is an attachment of the Wfret file that you can click and download:
http://mountaindulcimer.ning.com/group/dulcimermaking/forum/topics/fret-layout-2?commentId=3745489%3AComment%3A573798&groupId=3745489%3AGroup%3A2913
Ken Hulme said:
There are, here in the Building sections, several posts which list the fret spacings for some of the common VSLs. There is also the free downloadable "old" version of Wfret which some od us can send you that allows you to set any VSL and print out a template. Other fret calculator don't, IIRC allow print outs of templates.
Hi Ken,
I had the old version of WFRET on a desktop that died a few years ago. I am ready to build a few more dulcimers and discovered the "new" version doesn't support the mountain dulcimer diatonic option. Could you email it to me?
Thanks in advance, John
There are, here in the Building sections, several posts which list the fret spacings for some of the common VSLs. There is also the free downloadable "old" version of Wfret which some od us can send you that allows you to set any VSL and print out a template. Other fret calculator don't, IIRC allow print outs of templates.
I go up to E with a 0.022w on my McSpadden. And like Robin T I've used a false nut for some applications. In fact all the tunes in the key of G on The Cadair Idris Sessions were played in Ddd with a false nut under the bass string at fret 3 to give Gdd (a nice bright tuning). Note though that a false nut only works for noter drone playing as it raises and throws out the intonation of the string for fretting - this is why 95% of players have not heard about a false nut as they would be unable to use one for chord melody playing styles.
David, I agree with you, most of the instruments I have built have revolved around the use of quarter sawn timber, but now and then , either because I like the look of a piece, or because its all I have to hand, then the grain is whatever !! I like the stability of quarter sawn stuff, and it usually includes the bonus of being easier/more predictable to work, but I have a dulcimer 7 3/4 " wide, made from reclaimed true Hon. Mahog. (panels from a bank door) the back of which has grain which is truely tangentially sawn. It has stayed 'true and flat' and plays like a dream. So, while I agree with KenW re the mixing of timbers, with your choice of available material, I think I would go with maple for everything except the top, where I would use your red spruce, (I do love straight grained s/w tops) IMO this should result in a 'bright' sounding instrument, with the light coloured timbers darking down with exposure to light. I repeat, just my opinion based on my experience !
looking forward to see what you come up with
John
Quartersawn wood is certainly nice; especially for bending, but it is not necessary. You can make a fine dulcimer out of slab cut wood. Just be careful when bending the sides. Personally, I would make the whole thing from ash if i had enough. I don't like mixing too many woods.
Ken
"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."
IIWM (If It Were Me) I'd use Ash for the sides (I like working with Ash) and the cherry for the back. Spruce, IHMO is a bit too soft for a back (which gets more wear than the top).
Clive, I have to add some info to my answer. Technical the pizo receives the vibrations of the bridge, but... the feedback coming from the body will alter those vibrations. Imagine experimenting with a magnetic pick up on a normal (classic) guitar, on a semi-acoustic guitar and on a solid body guitar. The sound will have each time a different character. The same goes for a solid body dulcimer.
Wout
It picks up the movements of the bridge (with feedback), so it will work. It even works with no body at all, as long as it makes contact with the bridge.
Wout
Thanks Richard and Helen - unfortunately I've been away from my dulcimer for MUCH too long. I had taken on a job caring for an elderly lady and that took most of my time. Unfortunately she passed away on Wednesday...so I am hoping to jump back into learning again!
Marg and others, forgive me for adding a little music theory, but there are different types of notes:
I would suggest forgetting about sixteenth notes for a while. You will be playing awfully fast to get those in dulcimer music, and most of us aren't ready for them yet.
There are two ways of indicating eighth notes. If you just have one by itself, it has a little flag as in the picture I posted. If you have two together, they are joined by a bar across the top as in the examples from the pictures Carrie posted and Marg quoted.
We all completed elementary school and learned our fractions, so this shouldn't be too hard. A whole note gets four beats, a half note gets two beats, a quarter note gets one beat, and an eighth note gets 1/2 a beat. Another way of saying that last part is that you play two eighth notes in the space of one quarter note.
That is why it helps to learn to strum in both directions. If you are strumming out once a beat, as Julie is in her rendition of "Twinkle Twinkle," then strumming in as well will let you play eighth notes. Maybe a short demo is in order.
Remember that this stuff takes time. Be patient. First goal: develop a steady strum in one direction. Second goal: develop a steady strum in both directions. Third goal: start to "swing." Fourth goal: have fun skipping strums and creating cool rhythms.
Are we to practice what we see?
When a note has a bar it goes out in? So 3 notes would be out in out? and 4 out in out in?
were we to click on the photo or just use it as a guide?
Thanks Carrie, everyone is very helpful but sometimes it still doesn't make any sense - yet.
And this pix by Doug Berch
Everyone at one point in time or another just has the strum get 'em down. These are just a couple of aids that may help you "whip" that strum into shape!
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Julie, you're doing great! Stop beating yourself up. Your rhythm is steady, even when there are rests or half notes. Just keep doing what you're doing.
It seems like you are only strumming in one direction, and for now that's great. Twinkle Twinkle should only be strummed in one direction. When you feel more comfortable, try to strum in the other direction as well. So if you are going out now, you will want to add in strums.
To start out, try playing the Alphabet Song, which is basically the same tune as Twinkle Twinkle. But when you get to "L-M-N-O" you have to play eighth notes. Keep your hand moving just as steady as it is now, but on the M and O you will want to strum in rather than out (your hand has to move that way anyway!). There is no rush here, so if you don't feel ready for it, just put it off for a while. But that will be the next hurdle for you to cross. And given how you are playing now, I think you are about ready for it. And the main point is that your hand does not have to move any faster than you are playing now. But instead of only strumming in one direction you will, when the music calls for it, strum in the other direction, too.
Julie Semones said:
Alrighty all, I've been trying everything you all have posted, I think I'm finally catching on....here I am (YIKES, can't believe I'm sharing this!!LOL)