Forum Activity for @dusty

Helen, Rob Gibson was one of the people I first considered when I was buying my first dulcimer. In the end I went with someone more local because the idea of buying an instrument over the phone made me nervous. But since then I've heard a lot of great things about his dulcimers, and just a few weeks ago I found a used one at a local music store. I tuned it up and played it for a while. The sound box is a little bigger than most dulcimers, and that gave it a bit of extra volume. My guess is that it was the Jenny Lind model. The action was really nice and intonation exellent. As you say, it also looks really pretty. I was awfully tempted to buy it, but I just depleted my discretionary fund on a baritone dulcimer, so I had to leave this beauty behind.

His prices are reasonable and his instruments are of high quality. He also posts audio files of each dulcimer he makes, so you can tell what they sound like. I don't think you can go wrong with Ron Gibson.

I'm thinking bout selling some of my guitars ...just to get a better one....lol

OH NO It's already started.LOL That's the thing about dulcimers, once you got one, you start lookiing for another, and another and another and another.......A friend of mine has a Ron Gibson and loves it. I've never played one so I don't know about the action but his sound good. Warren May make a pretty and a great sounding dulcimer, Modern mountain there are a lot out there. Well a few less since I started collecting.

Patty - let me see what I can find for a pine plank. I promise it won't cost two arms and a leg...

Naomi

I know it will be much better to have your very own personalised instrument, but as my mother always told me, I was born impatatient.

Ken, if it's in my price range, one, because I only have one dulcimer currently. If the prices are reasonable I'm sure John K. would love to have one

Patty - how many Pine Possum Boards do you want?

You ain't right!

Patty from Virginia said:

Ben, that sure is pretty!!! John K., if I could only find someone who makes possum boards that look like possums and maybe made out of pine

Naomi,

I am so sorry, but when I saw it and listened to the sound bites on the web site, I deliberated for about as long as it took to open my laptop and email Ron to ask him to ship to England.

Ben, that sure is pretty!!! John K., if I could only find someone who makes possum boards that look like possums and maybe made out of pine

I must confess to being equally guilty, here is my latest (awaiting deliveryfrom Ron)

http://gibsondulcimers.com/In%20Stock/JL%2054112%20JL/54112%20Front.jpg

PAS is what you have to avoid at all costs (Possum Acquisition Syndrome). DAS is okay!

I understand from very reliable sources, Carrie, Dana, Dan, Rob, Wayne, John K., that DAS is Dulcimer Acquisition Syndrome. Sounds like you have it

With tongue only slightly in cheek. If, like me, you moved here from mandolin/bouzouki world, you already know about twin courses of strings, (tuning a mandolin can be the most soul destroying experience), but hey if you really really want one and are suffering from Dulcimer Deficiency Syndrome, then get out and start looking at six strings. Then you will know what to look for when you are ready to go for that next dulcimer.

The real issue is DAS! You have all the symptoms of it. If you aren't taking food out of your children's mouths, or leaving the electric bill unpaid to finance a second dulcimer, it isn't a real problem. But I suggest waiting to buy until you can play some songs well enough to really try out prospective 6 strings and find the one that really sounds like you want it to sound. Shop from a position where you can play enough songs, hopefully in a few different playing styles, and decide which is the right one.

Paul

No you're not silly. My first dulcimer was a 4 string, my next a six. If you're playing Chord-Melody style there will be a bit more learning curve as you get used to fingering doubled courses all across the board. If you're playing Noter & Drone or Melody Drone style there's minimal adaptation to make.

Naomi, sorry to imply you were a guitarist. I meant to just make the comparison between 6/12 string guitar and 3 or 4/6 string dulcimers. Glad my poor wording of the analogy made sense

Rob

Well, I see it like this (and 4 other people may give you 6 more opinions,) most of us guitarists did not start on a 12 string guitar. Instead we learned on a 6 string and once we got some proficiency we progressed to a 12 string. Holding down the doubled strings is a bit harder on the fingers and (again IMO) you should develop some strength before you go there, otherwise you could (repeat could) get frustrated. Practicing when you are frustrated is not fun. So... continue practicing and when you get a little experience under your belt.... GET ONE!

Rob

You will eventually see the term "Dulcimer-Shaped Object" on posts here. I think Websters Dictionary defines that as "Junk, made in uncertain locations by untrained workers, and sold by the unscrupulous to the unsuspecting, over the internet." I suspect you may have found exactly that. It's good you had the notion to ask your friendly, neighborhood FOTMD forumites for advice. Always glad to steer you away from the unscrupulous.

Paul

How long is the scale length on the one you have? If it's too long, but is only slightly longer than 26", a 26" may not be enough change to really help you. Half an inch may not make much difference at all, but an inch might.

I have heard a number of stories about Apple Creek, mostly dealing with inconsistent quality, out of tune frets, etc. A good Apple Creek sometimes gets a decent review, but most seem to get bad reviews. I would stick with the makers recommended above.These are people who have shown to have high standards.

Paul

Hi Cathy,

You may already have found that you are getting more information than you expected. Embrace that fact and learn as much as you can.

To your specific questions, I have personally never heard anything bad about the Black Mountain dulcimers, but I have often heard people sing the praises of TK O'Brien and McSpadden as well as other builders.

As you probably know, astandard dulcimer usually has avibrating string length (VSL)of 25-29 inches. Dulcimers that are shorter than that are usually tuned higher, either to a fourth or fifth above in the keys of G or A or a full octave above to a high D. Dulcimers such as the McSpadden Ginger or Ron Ewing's baritone dulcimette, for example, are usually tuned to G or A. If you want to play with your husband or other at a dulcimer jam or workshop, you won't really be able to do so. You may want to visit the group here I started a while back called Little Dulcimers, and in particular right now you may want to look at the list of little dulcimer makers that I am compiling there. That list indicates the VSL and the intended key of the dulcimers. You will notice that only two makers (Mike Clemmer and Folkroots) listed thereregularly makedulcimers with VSLs less than 25" that are intended to be played in the same key as standard dulcimers.

I point this out because a couple of other people have recommended little dulcimers to you and you should be aware that most of them are intended to be played in a different key or a different octave than a standard dulcimer. However, your initial question is about standard dulcimers with a 26" VSL and you seem to be wondering whether your less-than-professional playing deserves a dulcimer nicer than the cheaper ones out there.

To that question I say yes. You do not need to spend a thousand dollars, but if you can afford $300 or a bit more you can get a really nice dulcimer. And some makers such as David "Harpmaker" Lynch (also a member here) offer really nice student models even less expensive than that. LIke all good luthiers, David will work with you and make sure you get a dulcimer sized and priced just for you. Get a dulcimer that encourages you to play and facilitates your improvement. If you get a dulcimer with inaccurate intonation or buzzing strings or whatever, you will not want to play it and will either give up or have to buy another dulcimer soon. Get a dulcimer worthy of the player you hope to become rather than the one who is just beginning now.

The first thing I'd say is Buy American, not offshore - who knows where that Roosebeck thing is made. For that kind of money you can get a lot more instrument from someone like Harpmaker Dave Lynch, the TK instruments and several other builders. If you have an instrument built for you rather than buying off the shelf, you can have whatever VSL you want. I've played an O'Brien, they're good. And one of Dave's - very nice. David Beede's short VSL instruments are very nice too. And I've played others from other builders. Not played a Black Mountain, but have heard good things from people I trust, who have.

I'd also avoid Applecreek and First Act, again they're made in third world countries by people who don't know what a dulcimer is, and you may be buying trouble. Buy an instrument from a person who is also a player, not a company (although MacSpaden, FolkCraft, Blue Lion and Cripple Creek to name a few are quality builders).

Yes - even as a true novice you can hear the difference in quality between instruments. This is why we suggest you buy by ear, not by woodtypes, or shape, or bells & whistles.

I had a couple of my students show up with an Apple creek Dulcimer. It had a fret length for open G tuning, much like the Ginger model of the McSpadden line. It seems to me they were around $150. which is low price, and a fair instrument considering the price. However if you can afford it I would get a McSpadden Ginger as they are a better instrument and would probably make you feel more like playing and practicing.

I had a Black Mountain for my first dulcimer, but like the Apple creek dulcimer, if you can afford a bit more I would do so. You'll be happier latter.

One member to go before we reach 3000 members ....!

Here's a tip o' his favorite, Mountain Dew...a toast to ' Depity Mo ' who I'm sure is smiling down from someplace as we reach 3000....

25 miles- that's wonderful Bill !!! I plan to do an easy 6 miles on my bike tomorrow morning, and a 2 mile walk.

That guy in front of the computer is actually a stranger- i just picked it up on the 'world wide web' after searching for 'geek'....lol!! I like to imagine he was part of the Design and Development Team for FOTMD's formation three years ago. Gotta love his tech setup...and got his ash tray, cigs, and mug of Cream of Mushroom soup all lined up on top there....

Yes i guess I'll go look for that jar of pickled dulcimers, gonna wait til mid next week though. Last two times the contest took way too long and the suspense was killing us all!

Seems like only yesterday it was 290 members.

Time to warm-up the dancin' hillbillies video...3,000 approaches!

Yes, Dana, from 2000 to 3000 in virtually no time! It's because people want to see what us crazies are up to and keep an eye on us.

FOTMD has a lot to offer. It's the most positive site that I know of. I think all the active members really look forward to spending a little time here amongst friends.

Anyone notice exactly 100 members from 3000! Boy this site is growing fast.

Love the looks of that 3-stringed Ledford! Congratulations on your great find, Curtis.

Great find, Curtis. Looks like a wonderful instrument

Rob

I really like the looks of that Ledford dulcimer. Congrats on a fantastic find. Hope you enjoy it for years to come.

I recently obtained an unnumbered Ledford dulcimer which came from a thrift store in Midland, Michigan. It looks identical to the Ivyton TN dulcimers on the Ledford site.

[ http://www.backroombluegrassband.com/hlccweb/instruments/storiesandpics.htm ]

It has walnut sides, scroll, fingerboard, and endblock, with pine-like top and back. The pegs, end pin, and perhaps the two nuts, are a lovely, light butterscotch-colored wood which seems to have a slightly mellower grain than maple. The scroll is slender and untapered; the whole instrument is light and responsive. The frets are wire staples under the first two strings only, however the placement is faulty: mostly flat until the upper notes which are sharper. I was able to render it playable, at least in the lower range, by shortening the string length with an additional nut at the distal end, though the first fret is still Very flat. It is signed under the lower left diamond soundhole, in pencil, directly on the back: [Made By/ Homer C Ledford/ Winchester, Ky.].

I sent all the information and pictures to the site but, considering how infrequently it is updated, I thought I would mention it here and see if anyone else has additional info that would help me place it in time. There is, evidently, a log book of Ledford's dulcimers and the woods and style should narrow it down; if Midland MI was the home of the original owner that would cinch it.

I see you dig Clemson.......wow nice instrument ......my cousin Olga had one of these

Here is a picture of an autoharp my uncle (of Pawprint Autoharps) made for me a few years back. Notice that the main tuners for each string are zither pins. But down below are fine tuners which are adjustable with a tiny allen wrench.

As Ken has explained, it can be hard to tune a string with great precision using those zither pins; the fine tuners allow more nuanced adjustment. And incidentally, this autoharp was a prototype. My uncle now covers up those fine tuners with a nice piece of wood. We all agreed that this version reminds us of a teenager's braces.

thanks this is all new to me......learn something new here everyday

My Keith Young dulcimer has pegs and the beads for fine tuning. I was amazed at how well they work. Took it to Portage PA Dulcimer Day and was able to get in tune and then re-tune very quickly andaccurately with them. I think this will now be my "go to" dulcimer!

Fine tuners (there are several kinds including tuning beads) are often used on instruments that have wooden violin style tuning pegs, as well those with autoharp style steel tuning pins.

Many people have trouble hitting the desired note accurately with those kinds of primary tuners. Fine tuners let them get more accurate tuning. The idea was first developed with Violins/Violas etc back in the Renaissance. Fine tuner beads are on a portion of the string which is higher at one end that the other (usually between the bridge and the tailpiece), and as you push/pull the bead along it slackens or tightens the string in very tiny amounts.

I`ve seen them used with zither pin`s already, cranking the zither pin to a certain note but it still needs a slight adjustment to get it right on.

The micro adjustment can be done with the " tuning bead " .