Forum Activity for @molly-mccurdy

Thank you, gentlemen. I appreciate your input.

Those prices seem fair.  McSpadden does excellent quality work, and their dulcimers hold their value pretty well.  I've owned a couple of all-walnut McSpaddens and have no complaints about any of them.

Molly, I agree with Richard although if you put it on an auction site it could go for more. It could go for less, too.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Not seeing it and based on your description I would think in the neighborhood of $300 to $350. Over the years I have purchased two different McSpadens which were purchased, put away and never played, buying them second hand for $300 each.

Hi, my friends.

I’m trying to answer a question for which I don’t know the answer. How can I find out how much a McSpadden solid walnut hourglass dulcimer is worth? It’s in excellent shape, no cracks or blemishes, built in 1988, with case. I don’t know what this lady is expecting to get for her dulcimer, but she did inquire about its worth. I’d appreciate any advice!

Thanks!

Molly McCurdy

Thanks again, Nate.  The tunes I've posted actually use pretty standard tunings, DAc and DAD with a first fret capo.  I'll be sending some others with more unusual tunings.  Everything is streamable on YouTube, Spotify, Apple Music, Bandcamp, and other platforms.

Have a great day.

Very true Alex!

I find that many combinations of root notes tend to just make things more confusing, which is a fun opportunity to find something new. 

Most of the time, I will alter the tuning in order to achieve specific chords and fit them together into a track, but many of these alternate tunings are fairly difficult for me to play a full song in. Again, it's just an opportunity to try a little harder.

Since I build all my dulcimers, $20 is about my average cost with some being closer to 5 and the most being about 30.

Thanks for taking the time to respond, and I have no doubt you will provide more creative music with creative tunings. 

I hope you have a great day as well, 

Nate

Thanks again, Nate.  I have three dulcimers, one of which cost me $20, is on loan, and I may never see again.  I keep three strings on one, four on the other.

I can adapt to a new tuning pretty quickly.  I'm not sure why, because ukulele essentially being a transposition of guitar (long my main instrument) drives me up a wall.  I have to pretend it's a guitar and not think of the pitches I'm actually playing.  If I was reading tab, of course this wouldn't be a problem.

At least on four strings, I haven't found many tunings that I didn't think work at all.  For me, it's a question of working with a tuning until I find something interesting.  If I were more concerned with playing familiar chords, I'd probably reject more tunings.

Have a great day.

Personally, i have a massive pile of strings and quite a few dulcimers(8 at the moment), so I often experiment with different string gauge combinations, each combination having a different range of possible tunings. Alternate tunings are a fun way to keep myself engaged when I'm getting a little bored and don't know what to do about it.

I would assume that you can probably do a lot more with them than I could, given your background. 

Thanks, Nate.  With only one exception, all the tunings I've used go low to high, which would eliminate some of those possibilities.  The only exception was Eb D F# A.  One of my former students wrote me a piece with many Eb4's.  When I originally played it, I bent the D up to Eb (with three strings), which obviously wasn't ideal, so I went to four equidistant strings, with an Eb on bottom, below the D, and only used it to play those low Eb's.  Never used that tuning again.

I haven't worked much with tuning the D string lower.  I almost always keep it on D.  I'm sure I'll get around to it.

Best,

If each string can be tuned down 3 steps or up 2 steps, that is 6 possible notes per string, which I think amounts to 1200 possible combinations on a 4 string dulcimer. Then it's just a matter of finding the ones that are actually useful lol. I personally am a big fan of ADAd and DAdf#, but as you said, there are so many options.

I had to look up Galax tuning.  I use all-unison tuning sometimes on both 3 and 4 strings and it's indeed powerful.

I spend a lot of time exploring different tunings.  I've come up with about 75 and I think they're more interesting on a 7+1 fret dulcimer than a chromatic dulcimer, although I've never played the latter (and have yet to get interested in buying one).  My interest may stem from a background in classical music and jazz.  I admire and enjoy more traditional repertoires, but I don't play them.  I'm sure the folk who do are better at it than I'd ever be.

If you're interested, I've got channels on most of the major streaming services and three albums (on dulcimer), with another dropping soon.

Have a great week!

Hi Alex.I suspect that going from Galax tuning to D a dd might be inspirational just as doing the reverse was for me.They both have their capabilities and special tunings to explore.Re the thumb,I use it all the time on high melody notes.I liked Dusty Turtle's comment about shifting the angle of the dulcimer...I've learned that if a tune requires a high thumb I have to shift the dulcimer a bit to the left(I'm a righty except with a hockey stick,laugh) and angle it a bit to get the high notes comfortably.

Another thing i always try to do when putting a brand new string on-
I bring the string up to tune about 1 to 2 steps below the final note it will be at... then i leave it for an hour or so before bringing it up to the final note. This is especially good if you are changing or putting on all strings at once.

When i adjust the tuning on a string, I do two safety things-
1. I always turn my head so my face is turned away as much as possible.
2. And I hover my other hand over the fret board near the middle while I turn the peg. That last part would definitely keep the string length from whipping up at full length to reach my face.  So, in rapid succession I pluck the string to hear it sound, then quickly hover that same hand closely over the middle of the fret board while turning the peg with left hand.
If you are tightening a string a long ways (as when just putting it on), you can even lay a little washcloth over the fretboard as you are getting the string 'in the ballpark'.

Richard, I am very paranoid when tuning a new instrument and I wear protective goggles when I do, but I have a lot of dulcimers with old strings and I am always worried that one will break while Im playing. Unfortunately goggles arent always an option, so I'm mostly trying to gauge what a worst case scenario would look like. 

Robin, I could definitely imagine that it hurts. I personally take a mechanical pencil and scribble some graphite into the slots before putting the strings on, and this helps a lot with friction at the nut. 

Jamie, that is good to hear, and I imagine that where it whips is somewhat erratic, so I hope that stays consistent for you. It's good to hear that nobody has an instance of being whipped in the face. 

Thanks all

I spent some time this morning trying out your suggestions.  They offer some new possibilities.  I've been playing 4 equidistant strings for over a year.  I wonder how much difference that makes regarding fingers and thumb.

Alex,  I'll just address your first question here and also encourage you to join the Modern Chord Style Players Group here.

When he performs, Steven Seifert rarely uses his thumb.  Aaron O'Rourke uses his more often, but still not a lot compared to the rest of us.  But importantly, both of them teach chording using the thumb.  And most of use all our fingers.

The reason Seifert and O'Rourke don't use their thumbs that much is that they use their ring finger (Seifert) or their pinky (O'Rourke) to barre across all the strings, allowing the other fingers to fret strings above the barre.  So in DAd, whereas I play the 335 G chord with my middle, ring, and thumb, Aaron just forms a barre with his pinky at 3 and then uses his index finger on the 5.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you don't use your thumb, the dulcimer can sit straight across your lap, kind of perpendicular to your legs. But if you use your thumb, you will want to angle the head of the dulcimer out over your knee more.  This is easy to demonstrate and harder to describe, but the basic idea is that you want a relaxed angle for you fretting hand.  I often change how far out the dulcimer is angled depending on how much I use my thumb in a given song.

Personally, I think the best approach is to be flexible, making sure you are able to use all five fingers, and then choosing the fretting hand attack that best fits a given arrangement.

For the record, I played the guitar for decades before discovering the mountain dulcimer.  I think of the right hand as playing the guitar and the left hand as playing the piano.  Maybe that helps. Maybe not.

Thanks for your answers.  My answers to yours:

1) I knew about Stephen Seifert.  I wonder if he started on guitar, like me.

2) There's a whole literature about string instruments that says, contrary to what may seem like conventional wisdom, that the right hand does the harder work.  I'm very left handed, but was never given the option of playing lefty.  It's been limiting in some ways, but I can do some things with my left hand that righties would find challenging.  Check my stuff out on YouTube, Spotify, or Apple Music (or other streams) and see if you agree.

3) I'm passionate about alternate tunings, on 3 or 4 strings.  I think I've found about 70 and they open up worlds of possibilities.  But I have no interest in a chromatic dulcimer.  (I have a guitar for that.)

4) Staff notation is probably not very useful for learning other people's repertoire, unless it's for vocal melodies.  But I compose a lot and I've been reading staff notation forever, so I use it.

Thanks so much.  Such a great community.

Welcome Alex, glad to have you here. I enjoyed the song you posted.
 To answer your questions 
1:  There are some players I've seen that don't seem to use their thumb very much at all, unless it's to make a stretch while holding a chord shape. Stephen Siefert and Aaron O'rourke come to mind. It does look  more comfortable on the wrist.

2: I am right handed, and I've often felt like the left hand is doing harder work than the right on a dulcimer. It might be an advantage to play right handed if you're left handed.

3: I do. It can be a good source of inspiration. I usually stick to 1-5-8 tunings in various keys, but I've recently been playing more 4 string, which opens up a lot more opportunities. 

4: I learned dulcimer with tab, since there is such a huge number of tabs available. Staff notation is a bit intimidating for me, especially when I change keys or modes. I only use it when I have to, like if I'm playing with others and they are using it.

Hi, Alex!  Welcome to our happy little group of dulcimer fans.  Detroit weather now is overcast and pleasantly cool.  With occasional sprinkles. 

So, to answer your Question #2, I have been a leftie all my life (physically, not politically), and have always played dulcimer "right-handed", or the usual way folks play it.  I built a left-handed J. E. Thomas replica dulcimore for a guy, and found it to be an interesting experience.  He seemed happy with it-- I've heard no complaints as of yet. 

 As to Questions #1, #3 and #4, No, no and no.  Hope you have fun with our dulcimer gang!

Hi All,

I hope you're having a great weekend with better weather than here in MN.

I'm relatively new here.  I'm completely self-taught on dulcimer.  I've played for about ten years, after about fifty years of guitar and I'm a classically trained composer and music professor.  Dulcimer has become my main instrument.  My questions:

1) Because of my background in guitar, I mostly use all four left hand fingers and only occasionally my thumb.  Anyone else out there use this technique?

2) Anyone else left handed, but play right handed?  If so, do you think this affects your playing and if so how?  (I play fingerstyle, but I think my technique is unorthodox.)

3) Does anyone else spend a lot of time exploring alternate tunings?

4) Does anyone else use/like staff notation?

Thanks so much,

I am glad you have a friend with whom to learn. That will be fun and beneficial. Best wishes.

I don't use tuning apps, I use clip-on tuners of various makes and models.

For a dulcimer, you want/need one with a CHROMATIC setting. Some have settings for guitar, fiddle, ukulele, etc. and in that case you need to be sure that you are using the C setting. It's usually a very small letter and easy to miss until you understand its importance.

That same thing applies with an app. I' not aware that Fender ever made dulcimers, and I wouldn't be surprised if their all only had guitar settings

I pretty much agree with Richard's advice. I have a one of Warren's dulcimers and have no problem with the original tuners (wood).  If I were to replace the tuners I would try to find some that fit without any modification to the tapered holes. There might be some Wittner tuners that fit. I'd keep the original tuners so the next owner of the dulcimer can decide which she/he prefers. If you are looking at the dulcimer as an investment (hoping it will appreciate in value) I wouldn't change it or play it. I'd box it up and store it away. If on the other hand you bought it so that you can enjoy playing it, you should make the modifications needed to make it playable for you.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

The choice is yours. If you think you may want to sell the dulcimer in the future, the buyer may or may not prefer wooden pegs.

On the other hand if you have trouble tuning the wooden pegs or just can't learn to tune the wooden pegs, you will have a hard time enjoying your dulcimer. If this is the case and you want to play the dulcimer until it (or you) wears out, by all means change out the wooden pegs for something you can enjoy messing with. 

One consideration is the aging or injured hand or wrist that makes tuning wooden pegs even more of a challenge. I have several replicas of traditional style dulcimers but have mechanical Wittner tuners in those that look like ebony viola pegs. That has relieve my aggravating my wrist arthritis every time I need to tune or retune.

Most contemporary dulcimer players much prefer mechanical tuners. About the only folks using wooden tuning pegs are the traditionalists who play old time dulcimers or replicas with wooden pegs, staple frets and true diatonic fret spacing.

It is yours and after all you should do what you want with it. 

Re strings breaking:in my experience they fly away from the musician's face when breaking while playing.Tuning up new strings I  always shut my eyes tight in that last little bit to get them up to pitch.

Should I replace the wooden tuners on an older Warren May dulcimer with planetary tuners, or will this affect the collector value in the future?

Here's some background info. The Fender app looks like it's made for specific instruments, guitar and uke and one more and only displays the notes that pertain to those instruments. Dulcimers need a tuner that displays all of the notes, a chromatic tuner. I use gStrings [android]. It is quite accurate and has advanced features you can use as you learn more.

MD standard tuning, Bass- D3, Middle-A3, melody- A3 or d4.

What is the length of the dulcimer's scale? And what size string were you tuning to D (I assume D5 (293.66hz)? Were the strings visibly old (rusty or black). Is this a used or new instrument?

Got my new Dulcimer today was built in 1992 supposedly has never been played. was tuning the first strings to D They vibrated sound low octave tried to tune them higher and the string broke was using an app from my phone. Not sure if the app was working correctly or just old strings.

 IMG_0376.jpeg - 297KB

I've been whipped by a string before-- it smarts.  

I re-tune a lot and would, once in a great while, break a string.  What I noticed, finally, is my string breaks occurred when I was tuning a string down.  What was happening:  the string would stick at the nut, so, when tuning down, the string was "pushing" against where the string was stuck in the nut, causing the break.  Now, when I re-tune, I put downward pressure on the strings between the tuning pegs and the nut-- -- no breaks.  

I've never had one break while playing. Wear safety glasses as a precaution.

Hey folks. I use pretty heavy gauge strings on my dulcimers and don't change them very often. So far, I haven't had a string break while playing, but I've always been kind of paranoid, since my face is directly above the strings. My fear is that the string will snap, whip up, and hit me in the eye faster than I can blink. I'm just hoping for some anecdotes about strings breaking while playing: if anyone has ever been hurt by one and where the strings tend to go when they do break.
Thanks,
Nate

I am a brass player as well. Played trumpet, French horn, and mellophone all throughout school and have recently got back into it. Here are my current instruments: a Bach TR-200 trumpet, Reynolds Contempora Pottag Model French horn, and Yamaha YMP-201 mellophone.

 PXL_20240510_202348241.MP~2.jpg - 62KB

@terry-jaye The scale in the little video sounds pretty good to my ear.  Happy strumming!  

@jennifer-landry I'm glad you were able to acquire that pretty Bill Berg instrument-- enjoy!