Forum Activity for @marg

    If we are thinking this dulcimer is from the 70s-80s, it couldn't have been played very much. That's 35 + years and there is no unusual wear, hardly any wear at all and no damage that I can see. Hard to believe it coud be that old. Question than, why wasn't it played?

    The action does seem high but that can be address. I still need to make sure the frets are level, how? By placing something on top and see if they rock or not? I didn't hear any buzz, so frets should be ok. I didn't fall in love with the sound. Could it be from new strings and they need time to set some or the wrong strings for this instrument or I am just use to my dulcimer? 

    The price is lower than a few groceries, not sure why I haven't just gotten it and started making it mine. I wasn't looking for a dulcimer and if I would be, it would be something creatative. What I find interesting with this dulcimer is the age and the red stain but not sure of the dulcimer, since I didn't love the sound. 

    I don't like feeling so unsure, is it because I am still very new and don't know enough? It's great all of you are so helpful, I just wish there was someone here I could take with me to check it out.

Ken

You mention you had one of these for a few years than sold, the price the shop is asking seems very resonable - what should one of these dulcimers sell for - if is an unkown as far as if it's a good one or not?

I do not know the VSL but could go back to the shop and measure. Mostly I play DAD

Since I will go back to check the VSL, what else should I check. I have an app on my phone, should I check the tunning up the fret board, or just make sure there isn't a buzz?

I'm not sure if I am interested for my self as a loaner or to recomment it to someone looking for one.

The think what I find interesting is the age and possibility from Sears. Hard to beleive but I did work for Sears for a period in the late 60s to early 70s.

To check the sound is it best to play a song or just strum, pluck or slide the strings?

Stain has nothing to do with ply versus 'good quality wood'.  Stains were used on the finest Stadivarius violins and the cheapest cigarbox instruments.  It's a way to color wood that allows the grain to show through, unlike paint.  Stain does not imply "lower end" or less quality. Neither does ply versus 'good quality wood' wood.  Frankly, ordinary ply from 30-50 years ago is better quality than most of the high end ply we see today.   And ply is not necessarily lower quality.  McSpadden uses ply.  So does Folkcraft.  So do many of the custom builders you read about here.

We can't tell you what string gauges are appropriate until you tell us two things:  The VSL and the tuning(s) you intend to use.

Does anyone know how long Sears sold the dulcimers, or when they stopped or any other info. Ken, were you able to lower the action to have it play easy?  

Thanks to all, one more question - since it has a stain it's probably ply and not good quility wood. So, it would most likly be the lower end of the Korean Hondos - would this mean it's one of the ones that maybe is not be as good as some others? Is there a string size that would be better than others - 12's vs 10's?

Robert, That is a great looking dulcimer, and I am sure it sounds great too. I haven't fretted a dulcimer in anything but JI since I did the first. They just seem to be what I want to here.

Here are some PDF files:

http://dulcimermusic.org/music/blank/

Dan, could you send me that too? I've used a web site that prints out blank pages for tab but I would like to see what you have. I would prefer to type in the tab on the computer. Notes are another subject 

A facelift or should I say fretboard lift for an old friend? It's gorgeous. I agree with Cynthia. That rope treatment on the edges is pretty.

There's just something about an old friend that's extra nice.  Lovely work! 

I made my own in Word. It takes a little while but it's free! Email me and I'll send you the .doc I came up with if you like ....

dulcimore@twc.com

Neat! thank you for sharing that Robert.

I am looking for a site where I can obtaib free blank tab paper.

Thanks

Robert you're driving me wild with your dulcimers - I've always been a sucker for rope bindings, think they are so elegant, with with JI too? Eh...if that one is ever missing, I may have borrowed it for a 3 am dulcimer fix... congrats.

Thanks Lexie, I hope your coming along well in your playing too... Robert.

Excellant Robert, it looks like a beautiful friend to have and it is good you could fit it to your style.

Back in 2011 I built a teardrop that became my favorite dulcimer. I would go to it first to learn a new song, or when I needed a dulcimer fix at 3am, or whenever I played in public. Its a dulcimer I don't have to worry about getting dented or scratched. Since I started building for sale dulcimers with Just intonation JI. I fell in love with that special sound and it renewed my interest  in the very rich but  much ignored and maligned 155 tuning. 

So last week I ripped of the old tempered scale fretboard and replaced it with a JI scale. I like the old timey look of partial staple frets but don't care much for staples. So I used conventional frets. I also like to jump over to the bass and play the last four notes of the scale so I added full frets at the top. 

I have been playing this dulcimer so much in the last couple of days after completion that Im behind on my farm work. I need a little discipline, but playing music is just more fun, especially on my new rebuilt friend. H ere is a before and after pic... Robert.

I've been to a couple of Cathy Brittel's workshops. She is absolutely a great teacher and very nice person. One of the best autoharpist in the world, IMHO lol

Mine was a Yamaha, but I think because it was aged, the tone was nicer than the new ones. And it was in really good shape.

I've played classical guitar since about 1970.  The Goyas made through 1973 were handmade in Sweden and can be great.  They were owned by Martin from 1974 to their production end in th 90s.  The Martin variants were made in Asia.  I'd play the Goya - if you like it, it could be a really nice instrucment.  The Oscar Schmidts are mostly plywood with too much finish - they are basically Washburn's low end brand.  Washburn classicials are much bertter - but if I was going to buy a cheap classical, I'd get a Yamaha, if I wanted to spend a little more, I'd get an all solid wood Cordoba.  But, if it has been well preserved, the Goya may be the best of the lot!

Yep.  Another Korean Hondo comes to light.  Not a bad dulcimer at all.  I had one as a loaner dulcimer fo a couple years, then sold it.  Not top of the line, but not bad.  The tension on those tuners is adjusted by the little screw in the end of the knob.  I think Rob's right about the hole shapes.  That's definately NOT the case for it!

I played classical guitar in my 20’s, but then life happened. I think one of the reasons I like fingerpicking on the dulcimer is because it is similar but easier with my older fingers. I had a sweet sounding used guitar; wish I still had it. My advice is to play them, and go with your heart. 

Wout -- with a 24" VSL, 12 gauge melody strings will work for both DAA and DAd tunings.

I am contemplating getting a new classical guitar, and have a couple leads.  There is a vintage Goya classical guitar with a case at a local music store, which I'd tried and sounds fantastic, or an Oscar Schmidt classical guitar.  These are just a couple ideas I have in my head, but want to hear some more, and maybe some yay or nay about my leads.  Best,

Hello there, I can recommend a couple of people to send your autoharp to have a good going over.  You live in the same neck of the woods as Jeff Dantzler who owns  http://www.harpdoctor.com   As well, check out  http://www.autoharp.org  which is the home of Cyberpluckers, an autoharp discussion forum.  Hope this helps you on your journey with your autoharp.

Surely you don't play noter&drone style

You write the strings are three .12 and one .20. Are you tuned in DAA or DAd? If you use the later, the tension on the double melody string is much higher than on the single middle string. Try pressing both using the same finger and on different frets (compare and try out if you feel a difference). A solution could be replacing the melody with two .10 strings (www.juststrings can help you out)

Wout

Hi Cynthia,

My tip for harder fingers is to play every day, even if you can only find a couple of minutes.

Just gives them a little reminder to toughen up.

Thanks so much, I love solving mysteries- (all with your help). I will pass on the info. to the person who has the dulcimer. 

You guys are great

I agree with Rob.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Looks like a Hondo, made in Korea maybe from the late 70's, 80's.  Some of them sounded really good; some didn't.  I won't say 100% (it's early and I haven't done enough research to be positive) but I believe the "clover" soundholes were made for Sears and heart soundholes for everyone else. 

Rob,

I just posted photos of a dulcimer with a red stain on the sides & bottom of it, I was curious if anyone could take a guess on it. It looks a lot like this one and it did have on the back, near the head, the evidence of a sticker - not there now but could tell one had been there. It also has the 'clover sound holes'   

Check under the discussion '  Old R ed Stain Dulcimer' up above this post. Think it could be   also  from Korea  

I went back to get some photos. I think the dulcimer maybe a factory build from japan or china. The shop had put on new strings and it had tension gears for tunners, first time I tried tuning with those. I didn't think it played well, but did get a photo to post. The case holds the dulcimer but is not the case for it. It is older and fits very tight. 

Thanks, still a guess but just curious.

I found it!  Thanks

Hi.  I am still trying to find tab for To Drive the cold Winter Away...Rob-n-lackey says it is posted on the thread, but if it is I can't find out where!  boohoo.  Does anyone have it or know where to get it?  Thanks! Vivian

Pictures please.

Well that was easy. Thanks Dan.

http://www.juststrings.com/jsb-024pb-1.html

I'm having a hard time finding a .24 phosphor bronze string. Does anyone have a good source I can try?

Hi Chuck - If your Riverlark bass string was old and your Elixir new, then the new string will sound 'brighter' at least while it settles.  Elixir are not as brash when new as some other makes but conversly they do not dull off so quick.  Different makes do have different sounds.  And new strings are always a little harsh for the first few hours of playing.  Nickel strings don't have the bass undertones that phosphor bronze strings have, if fact they have less overtones too.  You can certainly get an impression of a richer, more 'bassy' sound from phosphor bronze but you do need to let it loose its initial brashness first.  Personally, I usually fit nickel wound bass strings to my older dulcimers as I want both less bass and less brightness for noter drone playing.  For chord melody I usually choose phosphor bronze.  This is not a hard and fast rule - quite often my dulcimers get whatever spare strings I have on me!!!!!!

Regarding the effect of string gauge on tone - Usually a heavier string will give a stronger (louder) sound but sometimes less sustain particularly on the higher frets.  So very heavy strings can end up sounding quieter because they are all 'thud' and no 'ring'.  If you put a new slightly thicker string on your dulcimer it may well sound louder but brasher than the old one you took off.  You do need to give the string a chance and let it settle for a while before deciding if you want to swap it for another make, size or composition.