Forum Activity for @linda-riddle

Okay, will do...thanks!

Linda, it won't let you change your password because all the answer boxes in your profile questions are blank.  Answers are required, including checking male/female box.  This helps me detect spammers and keep our site spam free.  The answers don't even have to be correct, but please put in some info.  I'm not sure how you joined to begin with without filling in profile answers at all-  or maybe you removed the answers after joining?

In any case, please fill in answers for all those blank boxes, check female, put in your new passwork twice, and then hit SAVE at bottom.  That will work.  If you leave any box blank it will not let you change your password.  This is for your own protection as well.

Ah!  That would 'splain it, Lucy!

Depends on how and with what he glued that bridge down; you might be able to un-glue it.  Slack the strings -- all of them.  Run your hairdryer on high at the junction of the bridgeand the fretboard (both sides), to warm things up and hopefully soften the glue.  Use a short length of 1/4" or 3/8" dowel or other stick (as a punch) and a hammer, and tap on the end of the bridge (not on the front or back).  A good sharp RAP will probably knock it loose without hurting anything.

I have 5 dulcimers, 3 I bought and 2 I made, a strum stick, lap steel guitar I made, and 8 or 9 Native American Flutes, also a penny whistle. I only play or am learning to play the dulcimer and flutes.

Good luck on your session next week and welcome to our wonderful site. Sounds like you have a great beginning to learn noter/drone style. Mostly, just have fun!  Happy Strumming!

Hi! Actually, I'm not suggesting it...haha, just mentioning that one who sees an unglued bridge, may think it was in error. Now I have a glued in bridge when it was intended to be a floating bridge. 

Hi D-Chitwood, I think I am going to learn about just having a floating bridge, when I know where I want it to tune and adjust it I think it will work fine and make the instrument flexable to maybe add heavier strings to change the sound. I am not ready to do anything crazy so I am keeping to similar strings for adjustment and tuning.

Thank you for the suggestion, gluing it down is one suggestion that I may consider some day.

Liked the 2'nd part of Schienholt, great interview Ken. It is really interesting to learn so much history of this instrument, too bad there is not more music from the past. Maybe you'll find someone who knows of the music through the podcasts.

I have a 35 year old handmade tear drop that I undusted and took to a guitar center for strings, when I first became interested in learning to play. The guitar center guy didn't have dulimer strings and just measured mine and replaced them with similar size strings. As he was working with it, he said, "Well looky here, the bridge isn't glued in place! I can fix that!" and he glued it down. Ah, to have known. 

Hey Ken, sweetwood is a common name for a laurel.

Not me.  Although in my Society or Creative Anchronism days I wore similar costumes and glasses.  Suprisingly, eyeglasses were invented in Italy somewhere between 1268 and 1289 (although not those modern frames, of course).

I'm not familiar with a wood having the common name of Sweetwood.  Sweetgum, yes, but not Sweetwood.  What other names does it go by?

Dulcimer on a table - whether 5/8" or 3" thick -- is better than dulcimer on the lap.  The lap is soft and absorbs sound. Tables are hard and reflect sound making the dulcimer louder.  However.  Dulcimer suspended even 1/8" above a "table" gives you even more volume because it frees up the entire back of the instrument so it can vibrate.

You can test this by setting two pencils on your table and putting the dulcimer on top of them. 

Personally I like dulcimers with built-in feet, like my John Knopf Uncle Ed replica.  You can make simple feet about 1/4" square that will stick on with double-sided tape.  For my possum boards I prefer 3/8" or 1/2" thicknes and 1/4" suspension height.  I have one board that is 1/2" Balsa -- verrrrryyyy lightweight!

When your friend makes your possum boards tell him not to put any padding on the suspension parts - whether they are just simple cross bars or fitted yokes or whatever.  You want the dulcimer to directly touch the wood of the supports, for maxium amplification.  Any padding, such as felt, will 'cost' you some enhancement. Wood to wood contact between the suspension bits and the dulcimer will not harm the dulcimer if the other wood is sanded very smooth and finished with ureathane or whatever.

I picked up some nice hardwood planks at an estate sale for a song (no pun intended), just the right size for possum boards. I’ve got some Sweetwood (native to NC) and some pretty, but unidentified hardwood. I gave some to my dear friend Maureen whose husband has been enticed into making us possum boards. I gave him a half dozen pieces of planks, and he is off, researching, and designing my friend and me a board. The planks I provided him are 3/8” thick, because I read in my research on possum boards that this was a pretty good thickness for a possum board, and they happened to be cut that way.

Meanwhile, I started playing around with some of the other planks that happen to be 5/8” thick, and have discovered that they provide a much richer sound. I’m talking about a plain plank of wood, no supports, or elevation, just a dulci on a plank, Appalachia style.

I would appreciate hearing thoughts from some of you possum board users on your preference of board thickness, and support or no support, support height, etc.  

A little shameless self-promotion here, but I want to let everyone know that Patricia and Wayne have the latest episode posted.

http://dulcimuse.com/podcast/resource/003.html

Enjoy it folks.

Ken

"The dulcimer plays a sweet song."

 This function doesn't work for me; I enter a new password twice but get the following error msg: 

You have entered an invalid value for "my interests in music or mountain dulcimer: " - value must be printable characters with the following allowed HTML tags: span,strong,em,a,b,u,i,p,div,br,img,h2,h3,h4,pre,hr,ul,ol,li

I am using Safari 7.1 if that helps.  I even tried putting text in the "my interests" box but that didn't work either. 

Any ideas?  I'd like to change password to one I will remember!  Thanks, Linda

Ken, I love the modern glasses and period costume. 

   Plucked Psaltery                                                  Bowed Psaltery                         Bowed Dulcimer

That's why we're here, Clogger.

I saw some of those. Only thing is there are lots of negative responses on that seller and another one. Recent too. I don't feel too comfortable about that. 

Patty look on ebay there is a 1/4 size bow for 6.99  free shipping from NJ.

Thanks. I've been very confused about the difference between the bowed psaltery and the bowed dulcimer.

Psalteries -- both the classic Plucked Psaltery and the modern Bowed Psaltery are good choices for other stringed instruments.  A Plucked Psaltery is like a simplified Autoharp without nearly as many strings and without the chord bar in the middle.  The Bowed Psaltery is very simple, not at all like the Bowed dulcimer (which is more or less a cello).

Hi Clogger!  Welcome to FOTMD!  Thos string gauges sound just fine -- as long as you can get adequate sound from them.  What the VSL (Vibrating String Length - distance from nut to bridge) on your dulcimer?  If your dulcimer does not have a 6+ fret, you might want to experiment with the Bagpipe tunings --  Ddd, Ccc, etc.  as they allow dulcimers without a 6+ fret to easily shift among various Modes for palying a variety of tunes in sessions.

You'll want to go to Groups in the upper bar, and join the UK and European Mountain Dulcimers Group.  There you'll find Robin Clark, John Henry and a lot of others from your side of the Pond nattering away about all sorts of nonsense!

Sean, I haven't given up on looking for a used bow but 3/4 would be a bit too big. I saw a 3/4 at the music store. It was fairly long. I was thinking 1/4 size.

I applaud your experimenting with your new dulcimer!  It's always good to have a few extra backup plans.  If you would like to use a good online calculator for determining straing gauge, I suggest Tom Strother's"  http://www.strothers.com/string_choice.htm.

Well, so far, I only play the dulcimer.  I'm enjoying it more and more as I go on.  Not that great at it yet, but it makes me happy. However, I occasionally think about picking up another instrument and trying it out. Everyone in this thread seems to play a wide variety of instruments.  What would be an easy string instrument to pick up in addition to the dulcimer?  I don't mean easy in a demeaning way--all instruments have their complexities.  I've been considering trying out a ukulele sometime.  Some of the dulcimer festivals have a "try out a ukulele" class, but I haven't made it to any of those. Bowed dulcimers fascinate me, but they seem quite challenging for someone at my level.

Piano would be nice too, but I don't have any free walls in my house.

I was able to locate one instrument sold to someone in Midland Michigan, but I can't seem to locate a photo of the one you mention here (even though there are several comments about how great it looks!) so I can't compare by looks.  The one in the log is #4815 and can be viewed online.  I'm assuming this is NOT the one you have, since this entry is for a 4-string. This one is also one of his later ones, while it sounds like the one you have is one of his earliest. 

Jan Potts (former Midlander, now resident of Lexington, KY...about 15 min. from Winchester, KY)

Colleen, I'll have to check that one out. Thanks for mentioning it.

I have a Snark, but don't tend to use it much.  My go to turner is an app on my phone called Cleartune.

I, too, would like to give a big thanks to our moderators.  I know they help make Lisa's job much easier.  

Thank you so much for the kind words Marg.  I too am hoping for a similar blessing in my play as was evedent with my organ abilities.  I had a rather short upsweep in abilities during my church organist time due primarily I feel to the fact that I was using that talent in God's service.  It's amazing what God can do with an otherwise unusable week talent (I thought?).  So it is with my new Probst, as I look forward to getting involved with a few other church instrumentallists to again do service to God.  That brings me to a heading of looking for all things Hymnal in dulcimer tabliature and parts of a larger group of instruments in music written for church play.  I really loved how my earlier dulcimer worked so well with a harp, viola, violin and one time we also had a cello to add to the group.   Great fun and thanks again, marg.  Kevin.

Kevin,

I glad you are on the mend and soon with have some new favorites. Maybe from this  'horrible time ' you will create some interesting new tones to your music. Wishing you and your family all the best.

One of the advantages of a floating bridge is for the maker. He or she simply sets the bridge on the fingerboard, strings up and tunes, then slides the bridge forward or back to set the intonation. The two disadvantages are the bridge can be knocked out of position and perhaps the transfer of energy from the strings to the instrument isn't as good. A fixed bridge, usually set in a slot in the fingerboard, isn't going anyplace. And it is firmly attached to the instrument. But the maker has to have the measurements right for proper intonation and resetting intonation for a new string gauge is a major job. 

Hay Jan, Sam and Bob R. thanks so much for joining our wonderful moderators team. I appreciate all the work you each do and keeping us all in line is a great job cause we are a wonderful group of members. Keep up the good work and don't let the "SPAMERS" INTO OUR WONDERFUL SITE!

So glad to have Bob, Jan, and Sam be a part of the Mod Squad! 

PS- A bit of trivia: FOTMD's own Ken Bloom was one of the musicians who performed the music for the pilot of The Mod Squad television series. 

I am extremely happy to announce that we have now added THREE brand new additions to the FOTMD Moderator team!! 

As FOTMD continues to grow and evolve, I am so grateful for the generous guidance and assistance of the site Moderators, and now there are FIVE site moderators who help out every day to keep FOTMD on an even keel.

Please see the initial post in this thread to meet and our BRAND NEW Moderators!

Thanks and big hugs to Bob, Jan, and Sam ! 

Patty, 

Another alternative would be to get an inexpensive 3/4 size violin bow like those that are used for kids learning Suzuki method. Those work well for a ukelin and shouldn't cost over $20 or $30.

More information on ukelins here: http://www.studiobobo.com/ukelin/playing.html#anchor1401612 

Well I've growned numerous times of this and other sites about the fall of my great dulcimer collection.  25 at one time down to zip, nada, nothing at all, not even a jaw harp in the larger instrument collection as a whole.  This of all things because my family needed to eat.  Well I'm on the mend from that horrible time in my life and now I can say it's only a matter of a little wait.  Thanks to folks on this site and to Rick Probst looking about on this site (ED as well) Rick saw my desire to obtain one of my two most favored dulcimers.  I knew that the other I could no longer obtain (a Ron Ewing double) since he told me in no uncertain terms that the one double he main for me was his first and very last double that he'd ever make.  Too much work he said.  I favored that double and my Probst about equal so my choice was easy to make.  When once again getting back into playing a dulcimer it would have to be a Probst.

After a few emails between Rick and I it was determined to make the instrument much like my former Probst dulcimer was.  Rick even kept all the information on that instrument including pictures so it was very easy to note the various aspects of that instrument in order to incorporate them into the newest Probst dulcimer made for me.  Fiddle back curly maple back and sides, 1/4" deeper to facilitate baritone use.  Ebony fingerboard, bridge and binding.  Six string with octave strings on the bass drone pairs.  Ebony peghead overlay.  Mahogany for under the fredboard, heel, and peghead. Standard Probst F hole sound holes on the upper bout and sound hole on the lower bout.  Chrome Gotoh 18 to 1 tuning machines and chrome strap buttons.  A strip of ebony inbetween the two pieces of the back wood.  And finally I think?  A very nice Bag Lady fully padded case for the instrument that fits it to a tee and has backpack straps for easy toting of the instrument.  That and it makes packing and shipping the finished instrument much, much easier.  Put the dulcimer in the bag, wrap the bag, address the box the bag is in and off it goes via UPS, FedEx, etc.  I know that there is a way to post pictures directly on the posting or at least a photobucket link to look at it at photobucket's site, but each and every time I try to insert that information I get a window telling me that my browser doesn't allow that and I should use the ctrl/X/C/V shorcut keys to get it here.  I tried and ...... Nothing at all.  Maybe I'll teach myself just how to do that in the future,  Trust me it is an absolute georgous instrument to be seen.  The contrast of the ebony against the fiddleback maple is just right in my book.

Yep the deposit is in and contruction is commencing on this build.  I can't wait already for this to be finished.  Already I've caught myself on what might be my next instrument and I have to catch myself otherwise I'll get the fam back in the poor house and have 50 dulcimers.  I've heard and experienced the same thing with dulcimers as with guns.  You never can have enough and can always accept just one more.  Well I've first curtailed my investment in firearms and am happy with the ones I have, I will also make peace with my single Probst dulcimer.  This understanding that there may be just one more dulcimer purchased to include the DAA end of things (or in my case GDD) a fifth lower tuning of the same.  Now what will accomplish this possible second dulcimer may be anything I remember liking when I was on a full roll collecting wise.  I do indeed like the all cherry McSpadden mentioned a few posts earlier, but I'll probably purchase a Ron Ewing baritone dulcimette which is more likely named a 3/4 dulcimer.  Ron extends and baritonizes his dulcimette or octave dulcimer.  This gets you into the half way department allowing a tuning of standard A baritone tuning or in my case as in the probst I'll be in G or gDD.

That way I'll have no good excuse to get any others as I will own a dulcimer in the two modes that I know how to play in and they both will be tuned in the same key.  I've found that the need and or the difference between use of a Mixalydian tuned instrument vs the ionian version is a matter of where does the song start and end.  If on the root then the dAD is preferred by me and if it starts a fifth lower (as in Amazing Grace) it is preferred to be in DAA.  Pictures will be learned and posted when I get my hands on the instrument.  YEAH!!!   Kevin.

Yes that was the old URL for this site, Friends of the Mountain Dulcimer.  We used to be hosted on ning, but now we are free of ning and own our site completely, and it's new URL is  fotmd.com

Yes please do update your defunct bookmarks wherever possible, as the old site has been deleted.  Thank you!