Forum Activity for @greg-gunner

Mike Clemmer just answered my question.  Ban-Jammer #5075 was made in 2006

Great! My oldest son (17) plays the recorder really well and messes around with a bansuri flute from India, but he keeps talking about getting another flute. Which Native American flute makers can you recommend?

I just purchased a used Clemmer Ban-Jammer (Serial #5075) on E-Bay.  Is there any way to tell when the instrument was made?  Could 5075 possible mean May 7, 2005?  Or does the number just indicate the instruments position in the sequence of all Clemmer instruments?

I have tried contacting Mike Clemmer through the contact page on his website, but he doesn't seem to respond to messages sent through his website contact page.

Also in what year did Mike Clemmer start to make the Ban-Jammer?

I started with flute in 5th grade, then switched to alto saxophone in 7th grade. Since then, I've played around with several recorders and the tin whistle. But for the last couple of years I've gotten into playing Native American Flute.

I'm a bass trombonist and euphonium player. The dulcimer is my first try at a stringed instrument. 

Ron;

It's the obvious things that always screw me up when I try something new, and recording is new to me.

They're not obvious to me until later.

I was going to suggest that, but I thought it was too obvious. After all, you want to keep the tracks isolated so that you can independently control the position and volume of each track.

You guys are the bees knees, I do good to get one track right!!! :)

I think if you use a headset to listen to the recorded track as you play/record the following one(s) you should have a better shot of staying in time with the recorded session. 

Ron's suggestion of a click track is good, depending on the tune, as he says. For this tune on YouTube I had the advantage of someone else recording and mixing it, but the click track and the lead-in phrase helped me keep the parts consistent. We recorded about 16 tracks on mountain and hammered dulcimer, many made up on the spot. The important thing was only using parts of each track, and not all at the same volume. I was impressed with what she did with all the pieces after we were done!

@JenniferC Very nice tune. I really enjoyed it.

I also use Audacity and have layed down as many as 6 tracks. It takes quite a bit of practice before you get the parts synchronized. Once I have a part recorded, I practice the next part against the recording until I feel I have it good enough to attempt a recording. I repeat the process until I have all the parts recorded.

One trick I used to use when I was starting out was to generate a click track (Generate -> Rhythm Track on the latest Audacity) and record the parts against that. I no longer do that because it made my playing sound a little too mechanical.

I use Audacity for audio.  If I am producing a multi-track recording, I usually dub the tracks sequentially.  After you lay down the first track, you can over dub the next track while playing the first one back through headphones.  Here is an example:

Here is another:

I'm interested in responses here, too. I've never figured out on my own how to successfully dub several tracks together.  I use Audacity for single-track recording but must have a brain block when it comes to more complicated stuff.  That software is only for audio anyway, so I think Jennifer needs something for video as well.

However, let me point out that there is a whole group here devoted to Home Studio Recording .  That would probably be the best place to ask this question rather in this general forum.

I have a Folkcraft resonator with a pickup. It has a 23.5" VSL , double back, and a reversible nut [raise/lower action and multi string layout], can be setup as a bass, standard, or baritone. I would have the same thing in a chromatic. Then I could play in any style, including dobro style, or most any genre, as my interests change. I play chord/melody primarily. 

Yeah, the subject comes up periodically.  And the answers are as varied as the kinds of music people enjoy playing, and the way they play -- Chord Melody, Fingerdancing, or Noter & Drone.

I, for example, am a hardcore Noter & Drone player of 15th century to 19th century Anglo-Scottish Border Ballads and their descendants as played in this country.  I want a dulcimer not more than about 6" wide, not more than 1-1/4" or so deep, with a 1" tall fretboard, staple frets, and Just Intonation.  Those traditional instruments have what I call a "high silvery" sound.  John Knopf, Bobby Ratliff, Dan Cox and Kevin Messenger all make dulcimers of that Traditional type which I would be proud and happy to own.  And I do own dulcimers by John and Bobby.

The kind of dulcimer I prefer has changed wildly over the last 40 years.  Originally I liked, and built, deep, wide dulcimers with much more baritone/bass response.

I'm sure your right about those adjusters working really well.   I am going to put them back on in short order, they needed to be cleaned up a bit which I'll get to in a few days.  The pegs o this one are right on and are holding a perfect tuning with no slipping etc.   The  label inside says made from planks on a 100 year old slave cabin near Lagrange, Kentucky if I am reading it right.  

String gauges are totally dependent on the notes of the Open tuning -- DAA, DAd, CGG, CGc, EBB, EBe -- and the VSL of the instrument. 

A "normal" set of strings will tune DAA, DAd, DAC, DAG, on up to EBB, EBe, etc and maybe up to the key of F.  But The bass string will probably break if your try to tune to GDD, GDg etc.  To tune up to G you need another set of strings.  Those "normal" string will also tune down to key of C -- CGG, CGc etc.; and maybe to B.  But below that they will be too floppy and again you would need different strings.

There are people who play fretless dulcimers, or it could have been built to be bowed.

Actually, on the couple of Ledfords that I had the pleasure of playing, those "string adjustment hubs"  -- which are fine tuners, BTW -- worked very well to make tiny adjustments to the tuning.

OK Bob,

In her collection was one interesting old dulcimer, same builder.  Beautiful dark wood, possibly walnut, but NO frets! That one was already sold.

Thank you both Kens.  I know she will have no idea of string gauge but that can be figured out with a micrometer.  Still have Dad’s old antique...or let local music shop figure it out.  Good reminder about the peg dope etc. for cantankerous fiddles.  A little goes a long way. I would be surprised if this one has 6.5 fret but that is something I use frequently.  

What I have never understood is what gauge to use.  Is it dependent upon the tuning or?

Before I moved to Mac, I used a program from SouceForge called Audacity. It is a free download. I found it easy to use. If you do not have an audio interface for you computer you can get around using two microphones by using the overdub feature in Audacity. I do not think it gives as good a quality as recording with two microphones, but it is certainly a lot less expensive. Audacity is a free download and can be found here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/audacity/ After moving to OS from Windows, I now use Garageband and find that they are somewhat similar in how they operated.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

 Hi friends,  I'm looking for some technical information.  I have written a composition with two voices, a duet, I suppose, and I'd like to record it. 

Can anyone tell me a program to use to do this?  I'm interested in both sound and video recording. I use windows,  not mac.  And I'd like to not spend a fortune. 

Thanks for any help! 

Jennifer 

Sorry I missed that you mentioned the 28" VSL. KenH's suggestion for strings is good. A 6.5 fret can be added if you don't have one and really want one.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

Welcome Helena!
How very lovely that you found your dulcimer over Christmas in Berea Kentucky!

I suggest that you JOIN our Canadian Group here on FOTMD:

https://fotmd.com/b-ross-ashley/group/15/north-of-the-lakes

and then make a new discussion asking about anyone perhaps nearby you.  That group has not had any NEW discussions in a while, and I'm sure if you post there the Canadian group members will see it and jump in to greet you!

(note that you will only see the replies to discussions in a group after you JOIN the group and are a member there.  Use the JOIN button on the group's main page)

Hi I am Helena and I am a newbie. I found my dulcimer in Berea Kentucky at Christmas dance school week. I had been looking for an instrument to play and I saw this one in the window. It was love at first sight and sound. I have just completed Dulcimer University in North Carolina so at least now I can play a little. But I need help. Anybody now of some Canadian players and how I can reach them? Thanks

Wooden tuning pegs may indicate that the instrument does not have a 6+ fret. Do you actually USE the 6+ fret (like every other time you sit down and play), or is it just there because everyone around you has it?  Yes it can be added, sometimes even at a festival; it's not usually very expensive (less than $50).

KenWL gave you a great list of things to look at and for and report back to us.  If it were me, I'd purchase a bottle of "peg dope", which may help with those tuners. 

Ask your friend to show you how to tune using those tuners; you don't just turn, but sorta turn-and-push.

With an "approximate 28" VSL, I would just go buy a set of dulcimer strings with gauges around .010, .012. .020. 

I guess I need to see whether it has the 6.5 fret.  Duh!  If not, is that something that can be added?  I think the price will be reasonable - likely around $100 or maybe less.

Hi Janis. Here a few things to look for: no separation of joints, a flat fret board, and length between the nut and bridge (VSL). Tuning pegs can be replaced if they don't work. My guess is that the ones on this dulcimer may need a little adjustment after 30 years. If those are the original strings on the dulcimer, they will need to be replaced. If your friend does not know the gauge of the strings a stringed instrument repair person should be able to use a micrometer to measure them for you. There may need to be an adjustment in the action (height of strings above the fret board if they are too high or low. The reason I mentioned VSL above is how far you need to stretch to make chords. If you do not play chord/melody style VSL is not a problem. Smaller hands work better with a shorter VSL.

Ken

"The dulcimer sings a sweet song."

A long-time friend has been downsizing her collection of mountain dulcimers - the usual, thought it would be good thing to play but never happened.  She has probably had it at least 30 years and is down to one and knows I have been contemplating purchase of a second MD.  I've not yet seen it, but would like to have 'gut reactions', or things to consider or watch for.  Check it out, 'run', look for something newer like McSpadden or  Folkcraft, etc.?  Thanks for any advice.

Wood: cherry. Pegs: 'old' style; she said they are not geared tuners.  Maker: a local builder, now deceased.  Name is likely marked inside. VSL: approximately 28". Strings: "look old".  Case: none, apparently been sitting out (who knows where) but has a case from another dulcimer that should fit.  The other dulcimer was sold but she kept the case and thinks it might fit.  I have my old Bill Taylor, usually playing in DAD or DAC.  Since we sometimes play in DAG or DAA, thought was that a second dulcimer would avoid having to retune during gigs.  Any advice appreciated.

Would love to see some photos of your dulcimer!

That's great news, Richard!

The student dulcimer has found a home. Thanks everyone.

Your right about that.........I am keeping all of the old parts that need a bit of buffing up and so far as the nut is concerned I am trying to make sure that it does not crack or chip, any more than it already has.............I really do not think this one has ever been played or if it has not very much.  I did replace the strings since the ones on it were pretty much dead and left off those string adjustment hubs since they don't seem to do much other than put unnecessary strain on the strings.   I'll keep them off it for the time being, but will have them if for some reason they need to be put back on.   All in all there is not a scratch or ding on it. 

Just keep in mind that the more you do to change the original parts, finish, the original setup, or condition of that 'mint' Ledford, the less valuable it will become if you ever sell it.

I'll give that a try.  I did take a double edge razor blade and heated it up and slid it along the sides. I managed to free about 50% of the sides this way.  I suspect that it is glued across the bottom too.   In the mean time I am going to cut some new slots and set the strings equidistant and tune it "Galax style".   By the way, that great looking Galax that you featured last week is weighing on my brain.

Thanks.........